u-joint replacement info

Discussion in 'Drive Train and Tires: Repairs and Modifications' started by grumpyvette, Sep 17, 2008.

  1. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member

    IF you put the car up on jack stands and inspect it carefully I think youll find one of the u-joints has failed, its a fairly simple repair procedure, but as most experienced guys know theres many automotive repairs best done only when you've got a helper available, and working on drive shafts and u-joints generally falls in that area
    I know this is going to sound silly but I know guys with 30 years experience that still forget to flip the rear grease seal 180 when filling the damn guns ,then they act surprised when the guns leak grease all over the place,when stored, watch the video
    Lincoln Lubrication 1134 Heavy Duty Pistol Grip Grease Gun with Whip Hose
    this is a reasonable quality grease gun at a decent price

    napa sells this one it looks identical to the one auto zone sells but it cost 2.5 times more

    yeah I would strongly suggest this specific grease as its well known for durability in u-joints:D

    http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Vie ... grease-gun


    WHY pay a dealer or repair shop more than the parts and tools combined cost when you can own the tools and do the job yourself
    I bought and use this press and so far ITS never had the slightest difficulty doing any of the jobs you listed and several more like U-joints

    http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/catalogs ... s&x=16&y=9



    http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vader8 ... joint.html

    http://www.circletrack.com/drivetrainte ... _delivery/

    http://robhealey.com.au/Corvette/tech-t ... placement/

    this is cheap and slow

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=38335
    below a better tool

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=33497

    * Free Shipping on Driver Safety Gear, orders over $100
    * Pit Stop USA Gift Cards

    How To Select A Racing Driveshaft

    Courtesy of PST - Precision Shaft Technologies

    Step 1: Identify Transmission

    Chrysler – Dodge

    * 727 - 30 Spline 1 11/16" Seal Diameter
    * 904 - 26 Spline 1 9/16" Seal Diameter


    * C6-T56 - 31 Spline 1 11/16" Seal Diameter
    * AOD & C4 & T5 - 28 Spline 1 1/2" Seal Diameter
    * 4 R 7OW - 28 Spline 1.598" Seal Diameter

    General Motors

    * T-350 700R4-4LLOE - 27 Spline 1 1/2" Seal Diameter
    * T-400-4L80E - 32 Spline 1 7/8" Seal Diameter

    Note: Transmission slip yokes are manufactured with various U-Joint Series. It is important to match Horsepower and Torque requirements to U-Joint Series. For aftermarket transmission applications usually a spline count and seal diameter will identify slip yoke required.

    Step 2: Identify Rear U-Joint

    PST Diagram D

    If Pinion Yoke has Placement tabs that retain the U-Joint, measure inside tabs. See Diagram D.

    PST Diagram E

    If Pinion Yoke does not have Placement Tabs that retain U-Joint, measure from flat of yoke inside to inside. See Diagram E.

    PST Diagram L

    If 4 bolt Flange is used on pinion, measure Pilot Diameter and center to center diagonally bolt hole to bolt hole. See Diagram L.

    Universal Joint Size. There are hundreds of U-Joint sizes or "Series" to accomodate many different applications of power and desired longevity for your automotive, 4x4 truck or auto racing requirements, these 4 series of joints cover most needs.
    OEM Spicer uni's same as what came new

    1350 series for halfshafts
    Solid version ( no zerk fitting ) if you plan to drive hard

    or the greasable version

    1310 series for DS
    PST Diagram A

    1310 Spicer Series: 1 1/16" Cup Diameter (Dim C - Diagram A) 3 7/32" length (Dim B - Diagram A) Certain Ford applications have 2 cups 1 1/8 Diameter. Appropriate horse power range is up to 500 in circle track or road racing, small tire drag racing and 4x4. Also available: Performance Dynamic Cryo Joint.

    1330 Spicer Series: 1 1/16" Cup Diameter (Dim C - Diagram A) 3 5/8" length (Dim B - Diagram A) Certain Ford applications have 2 cups 1 1/8 Diameter. Slightly stronger than 1310, Used in 5.0 Mustangs. Also available: Performance Dynamic Cryo Joint.

    3R Saginaw Series: 1 1/8" Cup Diameter (Dim C - Diagram A) Retained with internal clip 2 5/8" (Dim B - Diagram A). Most common GM joint. Horse power range up to 700 in road racing and circle track. Solid drag racing U-Joint can accomodate most sportsman classes. Also available: Performance Dynamic Cryo Joint.

    1350 Spicer Series: Manufactured with OEM tolerances and treated with our Cryogenic Process to yeild the strongest U-Joint available. For drag racing applications a solid non-lube design U-Joint is recommended because of the tremendous initial shock load, or short duration of high torque the joint must be able to withstand.

    http://www.stevenemichael.com/RestoModC ... Joint.html

    now that tool may cost $120 but it will usually cost close to that in labor alone to have a machine shop press out and in all 6 u-joints, and trust me if ones seriously worn ALL of them need replacement

    the money saved on a single u-joint swap on a corvette will pay for the press

    the local machine shop wanted $20 EACH just to press out and re-install the U-joints, with ME suppling the u-joints or $40 each if they supplied the u-joints, keep in mind thiers 6 u-joints in a corvette, two on the drive shaft and two on EACH half shaft, and if ones bad thru normal wear and mileage then the others have significant mileage on them and should be replaced at the same time

    the press cost was $129 when I purchased mine several years ago, its far more than paid for itself since then, and its far easier to use than the screw thread hand held c-clamp type


    heres helpfu info ,WITH PICTURES, read thru the links below, as theres Lots of good info

    http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/im ... index.html

    http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... index.html

    http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005/de ... -joint.asp

    http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/ ... hp?t=76752

    http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005/no ... s/arms.asp




    http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/im ... index.html

    first Ill point out that the U-joints made in china are JUNK, so get the AMERICAN MADE u-joints WITHOUT the grease nipples as that design is stronger

    next , many machine shops charge $15-20 to remove and instal EACH u-joint with a press, thats 4 u-joints on the half shafts and two on the drive shaft (TOTAL 6) so it can EASILLY run you $90-120 in just labor IF YOU PULL THE SHAFTS and REINSTALL THEM (99% of the LABOR) and have a shop remove/reinstall the u-joints themselfs, thats INSANE if you are doing it on a regular basis, when you can buy a decent press for about the same cost as a single series of replacements

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=38335

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=33497

    this is a differant year but most of the info applies




    basically youll need a shop manual or similar instructions like the HAYNES manual,

    you jack up the rear, place the frame on sturdy jack stands, remove the tires and youll need a long 1/4" extension with a universal and a 10mm socket to reach the straps retaining the u-joints on the inner ends and a shorter extention and box end wrench for the outer ends and the use of the floor jack to reduce the pressure on the rear suspension as you work on each side

    BTW once you get familiar with the process you can replace ALL six u-joints in UNDER 4 hours, only need to do the 1/2 shafts, great youll complete that in under 2 hours with practice (WITHOUT AIR TOOLS) (under an hour WITH THEM)

    I THINK the u-joint part # for the dana 44 are
    Spicer # 5-799X solid uni's without zerk
    The regular ( with grease zerk ) Spicer #5-178X
    but verify that before you buy with the local auto parts guys catalog

    DANA 36 vs DANA 44

    The C-4 Dana 36 was the only axle available in 1984 Corvettes. In 1985, Chevrolet brought out the Dana 44 which was similar to the 80-82 Corvette axle, but not interchangeable. The Dana 44 axle is considerably stronger, but not indestructible. The Dana 36 and the Dana 44 (44's in some autos and all manuals) axles were used through 1996.

    The Dana 44 is much larger than the D36. The 44 has a larger, "beefier" carrier/components to handle larger (lower) ring and pinions, and increased torque.

    603967 GM 44 REAR 1980 CORVETTE
    605172 GM 36 REAR 1984 CORVETTE
    605180 GM 36 REAR 1984 CORVETTE
    605220 GM 44 REAR 1985-87 CORVETTE
    605239 GM 36 REAR 1984-86 CORVETTE
    605260 GM 36 REAR 1985-87 CORVETTE
    605321 GM 36 REAR 1988-90 CORVETTE
    605322 GM 44 REAR 1989 1/2-90 CORVETTE
    605365 GM 44 REAR 1988-89 CORVETTE
    605417 GM 44 REAR 1990-90 1/2 CORVETTE
    605490 GM 36 REAR 1990 1/2-96 1/2 CORVETTE
    605491 GM 44 REAR 1990-96 1/2 CORVETTE
    605492 GM 44 REAR 1990 1/2 CORVETTE

    Look at the size difference, especially at the case above the yokes:

    Dana 36

    Dana 44

    And visit


    Who were kind enough to supply the pics...

    BTW if you experience a CLUNKING SOUND during shifting or going from forward to reverse ,that a VERY common indicator , FREQUENTLY showing your U-JOINTS are worn and need replacement, REPLACE ALL 6 because if ones worn they are ALL worn, IF you were closer ID say come on bye and we could change them out, it takes about 2 hours if you have the tools, youll need a PRESS, and 6 new u-joints, get the type without zerk fittings


    GOOD u-joints will cost about $20 each
    if you don,t own a press ID suggest you buy one because most machine shops will charge you more than 1/2 the cost of a decent press to press out and press in 6 u-joints even if you bring them all three drive shafts

    a chevy dealership will want easily double the cost you can do the job for, in labor alone, the press and u-joints should cost less than $250 and two hours work, you can easily sell the press and get back much of its cost or you can use a LARGE VISE and two large SOCKETS, if you have the right tools


    BTW this jobs easily done on the car in any drive way if you have basic mechanics hand tools and 4 good jack stands and a decent floor jack, you don,t need a lift,
    I prefer 4 12 ton jack stands but any decent jack stands will work for this job




    http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Tra ... 0yoke.html



    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 14, 2020
  2. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member

    if you go to upgrade the drive train with custom components ID strongly suggest you have the drive shaft and pinion and half shafts designed for the dana 1350 size u-joints


    the strength difference between 1310s and 1330s is minimal ...the only difference is the length of the cross they are mounted on,, not the cross section of the (X) itself because the posts the bearings run on are the same OD. The strength difference between quality 1310 joints from Rockford or Spicer compared to an Chinese 1310 is greater than the strength difference between name brand American made 1310 and 1330 joints. upgrading to the larger 1350 is really the only way to upgrade to a truly heavier u-joint than the common 1310/1330s.Buy a 1350 yoke for the transmission and rear differential and get a beefy 1350 custom drive shaft, and half shafts made. , if you can,t find 1350 axles napa sells a 1310/1350 conversion u-joint

    there are hd and expensive solid chrome moly u-joints

    https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/produc ... 94%252d28x

    http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-135218 ... oints.html



    C3 corvette 1350 upgrade parts

    http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p525_19 ... _yoke.html

    http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1_1963 ... html#photo

    http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/113_ ... hafts.html

    http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c34_dri ... hafts.html

    http://www.corvettemagazine.com/transmi ... ement.html

    the 1310 and 1330 caps are the same diam.... 1 1/16" (1.0625").
    The 1350 cap is 1 3/16" (1.1875").


    http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/113_ ... index.html

    http://hotrod.automotive.com/79266/0502 ... index.html

    youll need to verify by measuring but I think, these numbers might be good

    http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-135303 ... joint.html

    dana spicer part number is 5-460X 1310 - 1350

    1310-1330 part numbers are:

    Dan5134x or 5-134x or 1-0134 at Advance

    Found this on another forum but can't swear to the accuracy although the author seems to have done his homework, hope it helps.

    C4 Corvette U-Joint Information
    The C4 u-joints are 1310 series for the driveshaft (2 required) and 1350 series
    for the half-shafts (4 required).

    Within the 1310 and 1350 series there are u-joints intended for use with steel
    yokes and others intended for use with aluminum yokes. The Corvette requires
    u-joints intended for aluminum yokes. These are specially coated to help prevent
    or delay galvanic corrosion which occurs between dissimilar metals like the steel
    u-joint and the aluminum yokes.

    The preferred Spicer u-joints are the

    5-786X for aluminum driveshaft (1310 series)
    5-800X for aluminum half shafts (1350 series)

    However, these parts seem increasingly difficult to source. The numbers appear
    listed as 'Unknown' on the Dana/Spicer website compared to other numbers that
    display as either 'Active' or 'Discontinued'. I wrote to Dana/Spicer to ask about
    the status of these parts but I have yet to receive a reply.

    It appears that Spicer vendors are telling buyers to accept u-joints intended for
    steel drive and half-shafts (apparently without explaining the differences
    or possible consequences)

    5-785X for steel driveshaft (1310 series)
    5-799X for steel half shafts (1350 series)

    As an alternative to Spicer u-joints, there are the following


    ACDELCO Part # 45U0405 {#89049306}

    ACDELCO Part # 45U0400 {#89049301}


    NEAPCO ("Brute Force with AlumiGuard")

    Corrosion-Resistant High-Performance U-Joints for Aluminum Driveshafts
    Neapco # (Premium) Description
    1-0626BF: 1310 Aluminum U-Joint (Driveshaft)
    2-0617BF: 1350 Aluminum U-Joint (Half-shaft)

    Neapco also offers standard performance u-joints for aluminum shafts
    1-0153BF: 1310 Aluminum U-Joint (Driveshaft)
    2-0053BF: 1350 Aluminum U-Joint (Half-shaft)

    Rockford Driveline is a third source

    Rockford Driveline

    There appears to be two versions of the coated driveshaft and
    half-shaft u-joints. I have no information beyond part numbers.

    Rockford # Description
    K153A & K467A: 1310 Aluminum U-Joint (Driveshaft)
    K178A & K447A: 1350 Aluminum U-Joint (Half-shaft)
    Here are two more numbers that may (or may not help). My parts CD shows the following GM part numbers
    halfshaft: 12522048
    driveshaft: 14067678
  3. tommychev

    tommychev New Member

    Those black plastic preload caps on the spicer joints are a pain.

    What happens if they are not clicked on properly or broken?

    I fitted brand new uni-joints to my half shafts and when i put them in the car, two of the plastic rings got dislogded, or they got "unclicked". I couldnt get the rings back on because they were on the cups that were pressed in, and a local shop did the press work for me. I left them as they are and went ahead and fitted the shafts to the car.

    Is this a massive problem with these plastic rings? Can this cause a big problem with the joints?
    I just left them because I thought the internal seal does all the work to protect things anyway.

    Thanks again :)

    http://www.corvettemagazine.com/transmi ... ement.html
  4. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member

    If your refering to the grease retaining seals
    you really need to buy a tool, and get them installed correctly, because they hold in the grease and keep out moisture which causes rust and eventually bearing failure

    a large BENCH VISE and some sockets

    or a tool like this

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=38335

    can be used

    but Like I stated above purchasing a 12 ton press pays for itself in a single set of corvette u-joint and half shaft u-joint replacement, if they are not seated,correctly and the caps won,t snap back into place its usually indicates a needle bearing is misplaced under the cap and if you don,t fix the problem it always results in early bearing failure, it also usually results in the bearing cap end to end length not fitting the yoke correctly and being slightly mis-aligned causing a vibration


    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 15, 2017
  5. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member

    short time deal on a 12 ton press
    buy the march 2010 issue of CAR CRAFT MAGAZINE, on approximately pg 56 theres a coupon for a 12 ton hydraulic press from HF for $80 that normally sells for $129 on sale and $139 not on sale


    in any corvette
    U-joints generally get significant wear long before the differential,
    or bearings in the wheels or axles,
    I suggest you replace all 6 of your current u-joints at one time,
    its not overly difficult or expensive and most guys can do it in under 4 hours even without most of the proper tools and if your corvettes got over 80K-90K miles your well past due!:rolleyes:
    buy brand name non-greasable hd joints

    its only an afternoon well spent,

    read the links first





    http://www.ehow.com/how_8702227_replace ... tahoe.html

    http://www.automedia.com/U_Joints_-_Ins ... 010201uj/1

    http://neapco.mycarparts.net/ (American made u-joints)

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQa9HpNg ... re=related

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_VIYxEA ... re=related

    some u-joints have inner c-clip retainers




    http://www.zip-corvette.com its going to help you immensely to have access too a good hydraulic press, many machine shops charge at least $10-$20 EACH to remove and replace a u-joint plus the cost of each u-joint so it doesn,t take long to justify a press purchase when the press can only cost near that amount when your replacing 6 u-joints.

    you can expect to replace all 6 u-joints if one has failed, after all they have all rotated for a similar time frame, and while the rear half shaft u-joints wear faster in most cases they will all show wear if ones reached its failure point.

    try not to by import u-joints as the quality is suspect in most cases
    Obviously having a digital or dial caliper will also be useful to verify what u-joints you need and bringing the old u-joints to the shop to compare them before purchasing replacements might be wise!



    http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part ... /CORVETTE/


    read your shop manual carefully, look up the required part number on the u-joints, the half shafts require a coated bearing u-joint to prevent damage and

    u-joints with internal grease passages are a bit weaker than those with solid cores but keep in mind the metal allow and heat treatment and over all quality also matters, Id also point out that in most cases you can upgrade the components, in both size and quality.
    many factory th350 & th400 came with 1310 size yokes and u-joints 1350 yokes are readily available and larger custom sizes exist




    some have outer spring clips and some are held in place with a thermal plastic melted int lock grooves



    as most guys know theres many automotive repairs best done only when you've got a helper available, and working on drive shafts and u-joints generally falls in that area, obviously having access to a tall stand with the press may help

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=46086

    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=41860

    don,t pay some shop $500 plus to replace your u-joints

    this link is exceptionally helpful

    http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/im ... index.html
    u-joints cost about $20_$25 EACH, a HYDRAULIC PRESS costs about $120, you could do the whole car, both half shafts and the drive shaft, and buy the press for UNDER $250, and it takes under 6 hours to do with basic hand tools,

    http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?pf_i ... pt_id=1870



    your really need decent stands to work safely


    OEM Spicer uni's same as what came new

    1350 series for halfshafts
    Solid version ( no zerk fitting ) if you plan to drive hard

    or the greasable version

    1310 series for DS

    Buy from a trans or truck shop; cheaper than a Vette "specialist"

    Spicer used to make original replacements that were special coated for use in alum
    ( prevents corrosion ) but IIRC that version is no longer available
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 14, 2020
  6. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member

    http://www.corvettefever.com/techarticl ... index.html


    http://www.corvettemagazine.com/transmi ... ement.html



    A Corvette Axleshaft U-Joint Replacement
    From the April, 2007 issue of Corvette Fever
    By Chris Petris
    Photography by Hope Petris
    Corvette Axle Shaft Repair
    One of the more common repairs needed for many Corvettes is axleshaft u-joint replacement. In IRS cars, Corvette axleshaft u-joints constantly change drive angles as the suspension traverses bumps and dips in the road while the driveshaft angle remains constant. Another factor weighing heavy on the u-joints is the load created because of the '63-'96 Corvettes rear-suspension design. Axle shafts are the pivot point for the suspension since there are no upper control arms to keep the rear-wheel position in check. The negative rear-wheel camber alignment keeps pressure on the axle shaft and u-joints, while the lower camber struts keep the alignment adjustment correct.

    Typically, u-joints do their job for many miles with minimal maintenance and, in most cases, none at all. Considering that the u-joints handle thrust load, drive-angle movement, and vehicle-load torque, it's amazing they can live for 75,000-125,000 miles and, in some cases, more than that. Usually, u-joints will start to tighten up from lubricant loss even though they have grease fittings, but really, how often are they serviced?
    Corvette Axle Shaft Repair Rear
    Only the serious automotive...

    read full caption
    Corvette Axle Shaft Repair Rear
    Only the serious automotive connoisseur could love the tired, rusty underside of this Corvette.

    A tell-tale audible sound of impending u-joint failure in a Corvette is a clicking noise from the rear axle during cornering because the axleshafts rotate at different speeds, thus loading one side more than the other. Visual signs of failure are rust trails or rust stains at the u-joint cups. The clicking eventually leads to banging when shifting gears and eventually total u-joint failure that will effect the rear-wheel alignment. Either way, it's time to replace the u-joints whenever the rust stains are evident or this type of noise starts. It's also recommended that all u-joints in the suspension should be replaced at the same time since most u-joints will begin to fail on the same car at the same time.

    Choosing what type of replacement u-joints you will use depends on the abuse or lack thereof that you may put them through. The strongest u-joints manufactured have no grease fittings (with no drilled passages for the grease to flow through), which equates to a solid cross-section for superior strength. The downside of this design is not being able to grease them, but with today's synthetic chassis lubricants, the nongrease-type joints should last many miles. We have installed greasable u-joints for many years of service in a Corvette that will be driven few miles annually. The serviceable fittings allow you to push out the moisture laden grease when they are serviced.

    Whether you're working on a '63 or a '96 Corvette, the objective of this article is the same: removing the axleshafts and replacing the u-joints. Of course, the '84-'96 Corvettes have aluminum axleshafts, and the u-joints are easier to replace because of the softer material, but the concept is the same. Removing the axleshaft requires lifting the rear of the car and supporting the frame in front of the '63-'82 trailing arms (or spindle rods on the '84-'96 Corvettes). Remember, we mentioned earlier the axleshafts are part of the suspension alignment. When the rear suspension hangs freely, the axleshafts are unloaded. You can remove the axleshafts out of a '63-'82 Corvettes without loosening or removing any other suspension components. It's a good idea to support the trailing arm during disassembly to avoid a surprise when the trailing arm moves quickly. In some cases, you will have to support the trailing arm to reinstall the axleshaft.

    The '84-'96 Corvettes are a little different because they usually don't have as much movement in the rear suspension, and removing the axleshaft out of the suspension takes some additional finesse. If you have a helper (highly suggested) during the job, they can apply some outward pressure to the spindle knuckle while the axleshaft is pulled up and out of the inner differential yoke. The axleshaft is then moved inward enough to allow the outer end to pass by the spindle knuckle.
    Last edited by a moderator: May 13, 2019
  7. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member

  8. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member








    the factory nylon injected seal/lock, will shear fairly easily, if first heated with a propane torch then, once you place the drive shaft in your hydraulic press,the remaining plastics usually not an issue, but Id strongly suggest measuring the replacement parts very carefully before YOU TRY TO INSTALL THEM AND PURCHASING A WELL KNOWN AMERICAN BRAND NAME LIKE SPLICER OR MOGG,

    http://www.ehow.com/how_8627139_change- ... oints.html

    Park the vehicle on a flat surface and engage the parking brake. Place the wheel chocks in front of both front wheels and behind both front wheels.

    Slide under the vehicle and locate the front driveshaft yoke that is attached to the transmission yoke. Mark a line across the top of the transmission yoke and the top of the driveshaft yoke with a piece of chalk.

    Sponsored Links

    Video Wall Solutions

    Super Narrow Bezel, high Brightness hight Resolution video wall soltion


    Loosen and remove the U-joint strap bolts from the driveshaft yoke with a ratchet and a socket. Pull the bolts out of the yoke along with the straps and place them in a safe area.

    Pull back on the driveshaft until the U-joint is out of the transmission yoke. Use a hand held sledge hammer if necessary to tap the top of the driveshaft yoke until the U-joint is out of the transmission yoke. Lower the end of the driveshaft to the ground. Move to the rear U-joint that connects the rear driveshaft yoke to the rear differential yoke and repeat the same process to remove the driveshaft U-joint from the rear differential yoke.

    Slide the driveshaft out from under the vehicle. Place one of the driveshaft yokes into a table vise. Position the driveshaft yoke so that one of the U-joint caps is facing upward and the other U-joint cap is facing downward. Tighten the vise around the yoke. Ignite a hand held bottle torch and hold the flame of the torch over the top U-joint cap until the plastic oozes out of the small hole on the side of the U-joint. Turn the torch off.

    Loosen the vise and turn the driveshaft over so that the other U-joint cap is facing upward. Tighten the vise around the yoke. Ignite the torch again and hold the flame over the U-joint cap until the plastic oozes out of the hole on the side of the U-joint.

    Place the end of a deep-well socket, that is one size smaller than the U-joint caps, over the top of the upper U-joint cap. Tap the top of the socket with the hammer until the bottom cap slides off of the U-joint. Finish removing the bottom cap with the pliers if necessary.

    Loosen the vise and turn the driveshaft over so that the exposed U-joint is now facing upward. Place the end of the socket over the exposed arm of the U-joint. Tap the top of the socket until the bottom cap slides off of the bottom of the U-joint. Finish removing the cap with pliers if necessary.

    Maneuver the old U-joint out of the driveshaft yoke and place it to the side. Position the new U-joint inside of the driveshaft yoke. Install the caps to the arms of the new U-joint by tapping the caps with the hammer until the top of each cap is below the snap ring groove. Use the snap ring pliers to lock the snap rings into the grooves above each cap.

    Loosen the vise and flip the entire driveshaft over so that the rear U-joint is inside of the vise. Tighten the vise around the rear driveshaft yoke. Repeat the same U-joint replacement process exactly as outlined in the steps above. Slide the driveshaft under the vehicle.

    Position the front driveshaft U-joint inside of the transmission yoke. Ensure that the chalk marks on top of the front driveshaft yoke and the transmission yoke are lined up with each other. Slide the other two U-joint caps over the exposed U-joint arms. Place the U-joint cap straps over the caps and screw the bolts in tightly. Tighten the bolts down tight with a ratchet and a socket. Torque the U-joint strap bolts down to 30 to 35 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and a socket.

    Move to the rear driveshaft yoke and repeat the same process as the front driveshaft yoke to install the rear U-joint to the rear differential yoke. Ensure that the U-joint strap bolts are torqued down to 30 to 35 foot-pounds.

    Slide out from under the vehicle remove the wheel chocks. Test drive the vehicle for about 10 minutes.

    Park the vehicle and recheck the torque specifications on the strap bolts to ensure that they remain at 30 to 35 foot-pounds.
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 7, 2020
  9. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member

    just a note here! my son has a 1992 corvette, that has not been drivable for at least a few years for several reasons, that I,m trying to get functional, and on the first test drive in years, he complained too me saying he thought the rear half shaft u-joint on the drivers side was starting to wear excessively as it was becoming a bit noisy and he thought it needed replacement!
    he assured me the noise was the u-joint as the noise was obviously coming from that left rear half shaft area.
    I put the car up on the two post lift and carefully inspected the suspension and u-joints,while the car was up on the lift, even slowly manually turning the half shafts while the car was in neutral, but finding no problem, I had a friend put the car in gear and start the engine and very slowly and carefully apply engine power to the drive train, as soon as the wheels started to turn slowly the problem became so darn obvious that I could barely believe it was not instantly obvious. my only excuse was I assumed it was u-joint related and honestly I was not looking for any other cause until it was obviously not a suspension or u-joint issue.
    The problem was that the tires tread had started to de-laminate , and the tire was very obviously starting to come physically come apart, internally so obviously its time for a few new tires.
    This is just one more in an endless list of reasons you can,t assume things and testing and careful observation, are key to diagnosing and correcting problems and why its silly to ignore sudden changes in the way a car sounds or drives as its almost always an indication of parts failure or wear issues
  10. 87vette81big

    87vette81big Guest

    Right place at the right time Grumpy.
    Your Son is Lucky.
    Tire blowout in a C4 Corvette would be unpleasant.
    Damage SMC Fiberglass Panels also.
  11. grumpyvette

    grumpyvette Administrator Staff Member



    http://www.jegs.com/p/Strange-Engineeri ... 2/10002/-1



    be aware of the quality of the components you select, there are several merchants that advertise a great deal based on lower prices,
    who generally deal in the lower and mid range quality products,
    and their goal seems too be a low price volume discount supply house.
    now Ive seen a few good deals, over the years but keep in mind,
    youll generally find discount price parts, use lower quality components or,
    less extensive precision machine work, or imported components or a combination of those factors to reduce price.
    now I'm not picking on the lower price parts suppliers, they certainly have a place in the economy and hobby.
    I use rockauto and advanced auto, walmart and several other suppliers,
    if I need too ,but I generally know the parts and use name brands not cheaper import clones.
    remember thats frequently a very noticeable difference in quality, in similar components,
    you may pay more for name brand parts and at times the higher cost is not justified in my opinion,
    but many of the better known brands do tend to have better quality control and R&D
    I would suggest you do research and avoid using the lowest cost import parts like bearings, brakes, and suspension parts ,
    as Ive seen horrendous quality control on some import component examples




    C3 C4 Corvette 1968-1996 Driveshaft / Axle Shaft U-Joints
    Part Number:14609

    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 30, 2018

Share This Page