u-joints, about vettes but most info applies universally

[grumpyvette]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=33497

you might want to pick up one of these for your garage, the first time I replaced the U-joints in my vette the local machine shop was going to charge me $20 just to remove and replace EACH u-joint PLUS the cost of the U-joints if I REMOVED delivered and replaced the HALF shafts and DRIVE SHAFT, thats 6 u-joints x $20 or $120, the damn PRESS costs very close too the same amount and FROM THEN ON I could replace them myself , have a press in the garage and not spend any more money, to me thats a TOTAL NO BRAINER

heres helpfu info

http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/im ... index.html

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005/december/u-joint/u-joint.asp

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005/november/arms/arms.asp

http://www.micro-controls.com/article-ujoints.html

http://www.micro-controls.com/cartools-ujoint.html

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/html/faq.html

http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/images/ujoints/index.html
first Ill point out that the U-joints made in china are JUNK, so get the AMERICAN MADE u-joints WITHOUT the grease nipples as that design is stronger
next , many machine shops charge $15-20 to remove and instal EACH u-joint with a press, thats 4 u-joints on the half shafts and two on the drive shaft (TOTAL 6) so it can EASILLY run you $90-120 in just labor IF YOU PULL THE SHAFTS and REINSTALL THEM (99% of the LABOR) and have a shop remove/reinstall the u-joints themselfs, thats INSANE if you are doing it on a regular basis, when you can buy a decent press for about the same cost as a single series of replacements

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=33497

this is a differant year but most of the info applies

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2005...nt/u-joint.asp

http://www.micro-controls.com/article-ujoints.html

http://www.corvetteamerica.com/cf/di...ategoryid=X935


basically youll need a shop manual or similar instructions like the HAYNES manual,

you jack up the rear, place the frame on sturdy jack stands, remove the tires and youll need a long 1/4" extension with a universal and a 10mm socket to reach the straps retaining the u-joints on the inner ends and a shorter extention and box end wrench for the outer ends and the use of the floor jack to reduce the pressure on the rear suspension as you work on each side

BTW once you get familiar with the process you can replace ALL six u-joints in UNDER 4 hours, only need to do the 1/2 shafts, great youll complete that in under 2 hours with practice (WITHOUT AIR TOOLS) (under an hour WITH THEM)

 

[grumpyvette]

GTR1999 POSTED THIS INFO

Ok, I like doing this post because I get to show that great USA made NAPA zerk joint that cracked in 1/2 after 18k miles on a 350-300 336 vette. No hard abuse and it cracked shifting into 3rd gear at 3,000 rpm on the highway!
This is a pre-chinese junk part as well.

These are all I install on my vettes now. Spicer solids. I had a set of TRW zerks on my 72 for 800 miles and tossed them out and put these on.

RIP- here is the tool for the flange. I tapped the 4 holes 3/8-16 and just bored the face so the flange sits flat.

Here is the flange bolted to it. I cut the old joints out with a torch but you can use a cut off wheel as well. I don't use a bench vise or a press to remove them. Always use a bolt on tool before working on these. The flange will bend very easily if not. You can tell if a "hack" worked on them before- look at the tube near the yoke for flat spots. That means the tube was crushed in a vise, something your more experienced vette dealerships were fond of doing.

Once apart, I clean,blast, paint them with POR15 and a top coat. Not correct for judging but great for a driver. Who wants to be judged anyway!

Clean up the bores but don't make them sloppy. I like a snug fit. I used to use never sieze on the caps when installing but an old time driveline guy told me it retains heat and to just use a little oil. Ok, either way works for me.

Here we have a Spicer and typical cheapo " as good as spicer" joint. You can decide what you want to use on your car.

I use the vise to install the new joint as there should not be any load on them. Be sure you fit the caps so the needles don't fall in the cap. If it stops before the groove lines up- stop and see why.

Ok if you do use spicers watch this black plastic pre-load cap. If you over press it then you'll break it. I've seen some vendors call these joints bad because of this but once you understand them you should be ok. If the joint comes out of the box with the rings loaded then hold the cap in a vise and pull/twist the cross off and it should not break. I do have extra rings I got from Spicer though- just in case.

If the flange is or was bent then these joints are not going to fit. They are a tight fit but will work.

Since they are larger I usually have to put a small radius in the yoke to fit them. Check yours before you start to assemble or you'll be cursing very quickly.

I like to witness mark them. Probably no good reason other then to see if the clip ever moves. I like the look- what can I say!

When done the shaft should move with no binding. If you loosen the 4 bolts and it binds then the flange is bent and cap failure may be a nasty result.

tape the caps until you install them.

I use a very good quality French lock, I have some if you need them. HUH- a shameless plug - you better call the CF police! Heheheee! These really do work great and I have re-used them. Torque them to 75 ft/lbs

Replace all 4 at a time too. Good luck - you can do it.