under car safety

Discussion in 'Shop Plans, and some larger shop tool related inf' started by grumpyvette, Sep 16, 2008.

  1. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey Staff Member



    Any mechanical or hydraulic lift can fail, Id suggest use of a couple of the less expensive 6 ton rated jack stands be used under the car frame once the cars raised up on the lift as an additional level of cheap but potentially vital security, and yes I'm well aware the safety bar and ratchet in theory prevents the lift from un-intentionally dropping

    spending less than $70 on sale, for 4 6 ton jack stands that will insure the car stays up if the lift were to fail, is a damn cheap price to insure you don,t find out the hard way about mechanical device failures
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    https://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-steel-jack-stands-61197.html


    personally I prefer using 4 12 ton jack stands , solidly placed on the car frame with the jack stand bases on a level concrete floor.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-jac ... 34924.html
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    Last edited: Jun 30, 2017
  2. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey Staff Member

    I doubt theres ever been a single year pass without my hearing about someone getting either hurt, killed or having a very close call.
    well no mater how many times , I point out this fact, there's always some guy who thinks a floor or bumper jack will be OK to support the car, while he does a quick repair, or some guy who jacks the car up and slides a CBS block under the wheel to support the car , rather than using decent 6 ton-or much better yet use of 4 12 ton jack stands that have a wider base making them less likely to tip and a larger strength safety margin due to much more masive component size, and having the ability to think coherently, long enough to realize that you can,t safely jack up a car on non-level ground or on soft dirt or asphalt, simply because the jack stands can slowly sink into a soft surface.
    if your going to use jack stands on soft dirt or asphalt youll want to have cut enough 18" -or 24" square 3/4" thick marine plywood squares to place under the jack stand bases
    and you should always place wheel chocks behind both rear wheels if your only placing the front of the car up on jack stands.
    I bring this up simply to remind you guys as one of the local guys was seriously injured when he jacked up his car and placed the front wheels on concrete blocks, without wheel chocks behind the rear wheels , he then proceeded to remove the drive shaft, and when he did the car rolled off the blocks crushing a few fingers on one hand. seconds before he was under the car, and if he had not been scooting out when the car fell, he might have been killed due to lack of thinking about the potential dangers.

    http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200594352_200594352
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    http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/m...eel-chock-60-7250-9-3-4-l-x-7-1-4-w-x-7-3-4-h

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    having only the front or rear of the car supported is frequently a bad idea, as a non-level car has a much more likely tendency to roll or fall.

    personally I prefer using 4 12 ton jack stands , solidly placed on the car frame with the jack stand bases on a level concrete floor.

    http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-jac ... 34924.html
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    its also a very good idea to build and use wooden car safety support stands under the wheels
    (notice theres a 2 x 4 in front and behind the wheel )
    making it very unlikely the car will roll off these wooden supports ,
    these supports can be fabricated very cheaply, if you can find a wood scrap pile at a local construction site.
    but even with new wood they don,t cost too much to fabricate.

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    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/you-need-decent-jack-stands.672/#post-28211

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/floor-jacks.969/#post-24460

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ack-makes-all-the-difference.5512/#post-16571
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2017

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