Unforgiven Project

Discussion in 'trucks' started by Unforgiven, Feb 20, 2019.

  1. Unforgiven

    Unforgiven Well-Known Member

    Hello Everyone,
    I asked Grumpy to delete my original thread because I felt it had gotten waaaaay off topic from its intended
    purpose. So we will give it another go!
    I have spent about a year researching components to try and put together a nice SBC engine combo. I have been working with a forum member Indycars to see if my combo will work. From the reports that I have seen, I feel that my block will not hold together at the expected levels. A Dart block is planned for next year. For this year, my plan is to have my block sonic checked and if ok,
    I will use block filler up to the freeze plugs for a little bit more cylinder stabilization. I will limit the boost to about 6 lbs for this years rebuild. I had originally set a budget of $4000 to add to what I already have for a
    "refresh build". I am finding it very hard to stay within that budget! I am closer to $5000. This motor will never see the street. It is in a 7500lbs 4x4 mud truck with a th400 (3000 stall) and 6.17:1 gears and 44" tall tires. note: The gears ratio cannot be changed for my axles. RPM's are the only thing to dictate wheelspeed. This motor operates between 4000-6500 rpm's.
    Here is a rundown.

    Parts that I have --------------------------- New parts

    383 sbc -------------------------------------- machine to 4.040 bore

    10.5:1 compression ------------------------- 11.1:1 compression

    200 cc Promaxx heads ------------------------- hydraulic cam and lifters and bearings

    177 weiand blower ------------------------------- MSD boost master and new dizzy

    Predator carb ------------------------------------ Pro Sytems 950 carb E 85

    400 nodular crank 3.75 stroke ----------------- Forged ( CP) rotating assembly W/ 6" H beams (internal B)

    GM rods 5.7 ----------------------------------- 1 7/8" headers

    TRW flat top pistons ------------------------ 7 qt baffled pan and pump

    1 5/8" headers (open)
     

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    Last edited: Feb 20, 2019
  2. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

  3. Unforgiven

    Unforgiven Well-Known Member

    Yes. This is going to be an E85 motor. That is why I am using the higher compression. This will allow the motor to still have power while not into boost.
    At least that is what I am understanding with E85
     
  4. Unforgiven

    Unforgiven Well-Known Member

    Sorry . I just seen my first post and it got garbled up in the wording . I will try to edit it for a clearer understanding.
     
  5. Unforgiven

    Unforgiven Well-Known Member

    Grumpy, I read somewhere that you have used #8 or #9 steel shot to mix with your block filler. I can't for the life of me find that particular thread.
    My question was : Does that steel shot expand the same as the block casting, or will the Moroso block filler expand enough to not have to worry about expansion.
     
  6. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-fillers.11033/#post-48899
    I searched (block filler shot) and it came right up\]

    yes over the anticipated temp range the steel shot and epoxy filler has proven to work well,
    in blocks filled to the lower edge of the freeze plugs,
    to provide enhanced bore wall rigidity,
    with ZERO ISSUES in my experience, now
    Ive always done it on BBC engines, never yet on a SBC application
    if you go that route be sure to remember,
    to place a plastic straw through the steel shot & epoxy slurry to allow the coolant too drain through re-enforcing lower block fill, mix the epoxy and shot well,
    it must not have voids that might cause steam pockets or corrosion and you must use anti freeze in the coolant to limit potential corrosion issues, adding a couple anodes would also help
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2019
  7. Unforgiven

    Unforgiven Well-Known Member

    here is a curve Indycars came up with using my components along with 8 and 10 lbs boost 22019pics 012.JPG
     
  8. Indycars

    Indycars Administrator Staff Member

  9. Unforgiven

    Unforgiven Well-Known Member

    ^^^ LOL One day I'll figure out how to post like that! Thank You Indycars for all the time and effort you put forth on this combo!

    I was hearing a funny sound in the barn yesterday and found that it was my transmission shaking
    on the crossmember! I think it's scared!
     
  10. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    I seen 717 Hp Predicted on Nitrous.
    The Dart SHP block is rated for 650 Hp.
    The Dart Little M is rated for 1000 hp.

    The GM 010 block Grumpy says is good for 360 Hp.
    Looking to double the power rating of the 010 block.
     
  11. Unforgiven

    Unforgiven Well-Known Member

    Hello Brian! The Nitrous column is the same as the base column, I will not be using nitrous. I think the software just used "0" for nitrous shot and carried over the base line to it's column. I will be building this motor combo on my older GM block, BUT... I am going to limit the boost to 6lbs for this year. That way I can still use the truck this year while I save for the Dart block. I fully understand that my factory block would give me a picture window to see how the crank spins if I raised the boost! lol My plan is to keep the GM block under 550 hp for this year.
     
  12. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    All a mystery really.
    A guy on Race group said Chevy never had high nickel blocks recent.
    Post a vid soon. In main section.
    Stock iron block and iron heads Pontiac GTO making 1700 Hp on high TT boost.
    Pounded on hard.
     
  13. Unforgiven

    Unforgiven Well-Known Member

    Nice tip!
     
  14. Unforgiven

    Unforgiven Well-Known Member

    Correct. I believe they change the composition of the blocks around 1971. I am not positive on that though. My block is from 1969
     
  15. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Run it.
    What I am doing in 2019. Ponch 455 Full Drag Race put on the street. 110 Race Gas.
     
  16. Loves302Chevy

    Loves302Chevy "One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."

    I have a high nickel block ordered straight from GM Performance parts - 1988. With 4 bolt nodular main caps.
    And those 010 blocks have a few issues like........

    the notorious 70s quality control problems: The Starter Bolt Hole Problem, where the whole starter pattern is drilled too far from the crank, and the starter doesn't engage the ring gear properly but instead makes that horrible grinding sound you can hear from a half-mile away and it gets worse or even doesn't contact the ring gear at all if you shim it; The Lifter Bore Problem, where the lifter bores (or some of them at least) don't point straight at the cam, so it eats cam lobes no matter what you do; The Bell Housing Dowel Pin Problem, where those aren't centered on the crank, so the trans bolts up off to the side somewhere, so it eats pump bushings or pilot bearings; and so forth. Other common issues include the decks being so far out of square that an intake won't bolt on right, cylinders that aren't perpendicular to the crank such that the rod binds on the wrist pin and the crank journal, the oil passages drilled from front and rear so far out of alignment that they don't meet in the middle properly and the front half of the motor is starved for oil. The list JUST GOES ON AND ON.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2019
  17. Unforgiven

    Unforgiven Well-Known Member

    I started to tear down the motor last night... I've got some decisions to make! And a few questions to ask.
    The reason for this tear down is two fold... first, my oil pressure dropped to darn near "zero" at a hot idle. it would hold
    40 psi under load. I use VR1 20/50 oil. Second, I added the blower and wanted to change the cam to be more blower friendly and run on E85
    fuel. I am going broke with race fuel!

    During the tear down, I was looking for signs of wear, and where I may do things to benefit the new motor. Overall I thought that the motor was
    clean (inside) and was amazed with the condition of some parts. As expected, there was signs of wear, but overall it's not that bad (visually). Below are pics of what I seen opening the top. The pistons had a wet film that basically wiped off. The ring lands show no sign of wear. The upper edge shows minor wear and the skirts have minor scoffing.
     

    Attached Files:

  18. Unforgiven

    Unforgiven Well-Known Member

    The cylinders all look good except for # 6. It looks like something found it's way into the cylinder. I am hoping that a good hone will clean it up.
    Mind you that the image has been magnified so it looks very deep in the pic.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

  20. Unforgiven

    Unforgiven Well-Known Member

    I believe I found my oil pressure problem!
     

    Attached Files:

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