Unforgiven Project

I am aware of the pistons not being used in the dart block. The dart block is going to have a bigger bore.
we did not have the plugs here and I do not have the time to go looking for plugs tonight. My friend is coming over tonight to pic up the pistons and block to take to work with him so he will have it in hand after he goes off the clock tomorrow. I can't miss that window of opportunity .
Grumpy gave some good advise.
It's not a make or break deal on the plugs for me. But I do want to install those lines you and Mike talked about.
 
Another topic I have a concern with is the deck height.
My old trw pistons were down in the hole .012
They have a 1.425 compression height.
My new pistons are 1.440 in height.
This will put the new pistons out of the hole .003 without redecking the block.
We are going to check the deck for flatness and mill if need be. But....
My concern is : If the piston is out of the hole, There will be an area between the piston and gasket fire ring that is lower than the top of the piston.
Will this affect the flame travel in the quench area?
It's part of engine mockup work.
Grumpy should have covered in one his links.
Done before final decking of the engine block.
Supercharging more forgiving.
.040" quench still desired.
 
I am aware of the pistons not being used in the dart block. The dart block is going to have a bigger bore.
we did not have the plugs here and I do not have the time to go looking for plugs tonight. My friend is coming over tonight to pic up the pistons and block to take to work with him so he will have it in hand after he goes off the clock tomorrow. I can't miss that window of opportunity .
Grumpy gave some good advise.
It's not a make or break deal on the plugs for me. But I do want to install those lines you and Mike talked about.
Do you have the ability to measure the left and right block deck heights soon ?
Can then verify accurate where the pistons are going to be. How much below or above the deck.
 
Thank you Brian. But I would not classify myself as a top racer. I do alot of racing for bragging rights and CHEVY pride!

Not to say I don't compete though.!
I never enter freestyle comp because the only way to win $5000 is if you destroy your truck.
They can kiss my .... if they think i'm going to destroy over $30-$35,000 investment just to win $5000.
I'm definitely crazy, but I'm not stupid!
 
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Need a 9-10 inch micrometer.
Calibrate with a standard.
Ball anvil on one end that snaps on.

Can check on a Large inspection tool room granite table.
Black Granite Starrett best.
Use a Veneer or digital height guage.
Main caps all off.
Dowel pins removed from decks.

Out of time.
Lunch over Unforgiven.
Check in later soon.
 
Do you have the ability to measure the left and right block deck heights soon ?
Can then verify accurate where the pistons are going to be. How much below or above the deck.

Well.. I used a bridge with an indicator to measure the old set up an came out to .012 in the hole.
The new rotating assembly is the same stroke and rod length with the only difference being the new slugs are .015 taller
 
Well.. I used a bridge with an indicator to measure the old set up an came out to .012 in the hole.
The new rotating assembly is the same stroke and rod length with the only difference being the new slugs are .015 taller
Positive deck some Ok.
Make thicker head gaskets SBC
 
I'm still learning about how to navigate on this site.
I just found a little blue text near one of your replies that said something like more post may be coming .
HOLY s@$& You type fast! lol
I'm wondering now if I have missed anything else someone has posted.
 
What You can do if you have an Open empty Credit card is Charge the Dart Little M new.

NEVER EVER EVER charge anything for a hobby.
when I was a young boy my grandfather told me that his secrete to success was:
1. Take 25% of your check and pay yourself (a man can't work for free)

2. Take the next 25% and pay your bills.

3. Take the 50% thats left over and reinvest into your buiseness or if you do not have a buiseness, invest into your family and savings.

I have used that formula and applied it to my life. The wife and I both have really good jobs and have always based our living on 40 hrs.
All overtime is considered a bonus and is put away for our future. I taught both my boys that when they were young.
As you know, We lost our youngest son... but my oldest boy (young man now) has a very good job he went to collage for, and has followed my grandfathers formula. He says it is hard for a young family to do but he does not stray to far from the formula.

All of last year I was only working 40 hrs. and as hard as it was, I did not put a dime into my sport. Now that i,m on O.T. my wife agreed to allow me
$300-$350 a week to have go towards my truck. I am Blessed to have such a wonderful wife!
 
"NEVER EVER EVER charge anything for a hobby."

pretty much good advice:D
 
I just remembered a question I wanted to ask... When I went to tap the front galley's with a 1/4 NPT tap, I noticed that the threads barely cut into to bore.

I have not put the tap in deep enough to install the plug yet because I wanted to ask first.
Is it normal for the threads to have a shallow root depth when doing this mod?
Or do I need to jump up to a 3/8 NPT

Also.... what is the recommended way to do a second clean on the block to remove any grinding
dust and burr tool chips that may have found their way inside the galley's. After bore and hone they are going to boil the block (again). Is this advisable now after the block has been filled?
 
honing the bores and painting the block, is generally done after the block coolant fill is at least 48 hours old,
cleaning, decking ,re-threading bolt holes, line honing , boring, cylinders, decking the block,
should have been done prior to block filling,
boiling the block could cause issues at this point,
Id use a pressure cleaner , dawn detergent, a few rifle bore brushes on the oil passages, and compressor air hose with a nozzle

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-after-a-cam-lobe-rod-or-bearings-fail.2919/

a good spray with a quality de-greasing agent and a pressure cleaning would be my first step.
long ago I purchased a decent pressure cleaner as it makes getting the crud and grease off a block or transmission much less difficult
65909.jpg

http://www.lowes.com/pd_600025-24212-65 ... Heavy-duty
nozzle.gif

a high pressure air nozzle ,with a extended tip,
that allows you to get into and remove solvent and dry the surfaces in the the small recessed areas is a great idea


cleaning all the thread holes with the correct size tap is a very good idea
T-wrench.jpg

related threads

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...oving-gaskets-the-wrong-way.10464/#post-43842
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/parts-prep-cleaning.6255/#post-62107

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/carb-cleaning.12303/#post-60502

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tap-and-die-sets.1264/#post-6141

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bio-friendly-parts-cleaner.11547/#post-53360

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/page-2#post-48605

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/thread-chaser-for-new-block.3774/#post-10002

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/parts-prep-cleaning.6255/#post-76350

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/should-you-buy-bare-or-assembled-heads.534/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...an-aluminum-intake-manifold.14410/#post-74196

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/think-thru-your-goals.10606/#post-73288

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearings-and-oil-flow.150/#post-68206

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-for-new-383-sbc-cam-instal.13109/#post-68326

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-old-heads-in-the-scrap-bin.10728/#post-46832
 
OK .. No Boil.
I was understanding that all the machine work was to be done after the fill. Well darn... the block is to be bored tomorrow and all
honing where needed will be done on Monday. Block has already been furnace and shot blasted, so it is a clean block. Holes have been re-threaded.
I will let them know not to sonic wash or boil.
 
I just remembered a question I wanted to ask... When I went to tap the front galley's with a 1/4 NPT tap, I noticed that the threads barely cut into to bore.

I have not put the tap in deep enough to install the plug yet because I wanted to ask first.
Is it normal for the threads to have a shallow root depth when doing this mod?
Or do I need to jump up to a 3/8 NPT

Also.... what is the recommended way to do a second clean on the block to remove any grinding
dust and burr tool chips that may have found their way inside the galley's. After bore and hone they are going to boil the block (again). Is this advisable now after the block has been filled?
It's best to use a square drive socket set or a Tap socket.
Or take a metric socket at tap onto square drive with a hammer.
Use a Metric 12-point 1/2 drive socket and 1/2 inch drive ratchet.
Takes alot of torque to tap deep into cast iron with a NPT tap.
Want to keep cutting in 1 continuous motion clockwise 4-5 turns. Back off 1 turn. Flutes of tap will catch cuttings shavings.
Back and forth clockwise and counterclockwise gets the Tap cockeyed and threads get messed up.
Long ratchet gives torque and steady control. Accuracy.
Use Tap Magic cutting fluid for steel and iron or use 80-90w gear oil.
Gear oil has Sulpher in it gives good results .
Tap Magic cutting fluid preferred.
Plugs should on protrude 1/2 thread when installed tapped correct the block.
 
LOL Thanks for that lesson on how to tap Brian... LOL
You do remember that I run a machine shop.?
I was just curious as to the shallow threads ( because bore diameter is on the large size for a 1/4"NPT)
After thinking much about it, I feel that if a smooth push in plug will hold,
Aplug with any sort of threads will stand up to any pressure the motor would produce.
 
LOL Thanks for that lesson on how to tap Brian... LOL
You do remember that I run a machine shop.?
I was just curious as to the shallow threads ( because bore diameter is on the large size for a 1/4"NPT)
After thinking much about it, I feel that if a smooth push in plug will hold,
Aplug with any sort of threads will stand up to any pressure the motor would produce.
Ok. Deeper better.
Check with a Small Light shined though the outboard lifer bore feed holes to main oil galleries. Make sure it's not blocked off. If so remove plugs grind a groove on backside so oil will get to front lifters.

Those soft plugs in oil galleries pop out at worst time.
Only Olds V8 Had them tapped from factory new.
 
Hey the drill size is 7/16, some blocks are smaller, reem it out to 7/16 then try the tap! With my block I tapped them level with machined surface, but mine is Dart SHP with OEM roller compatibity.
 
Just got back from the barn. The second pour went very well. the pic below shows the passenger side rearward freeze plug. It is lower than the others so I
installed an old freeze plug just enough to stop the overflow that would have happened. You will notice that the fill goes 3/4 the way up the hole.
Also, while the fill was still soft, I scraped away enough to make sure the new plugs would go deep enough. That lower plug needs special attention for us guys in the freezing North.
You will want to scrape just enough so the plug will fit against the fill. Otherwise it will create a pocket and water will get trapped between the plug and the fill. Could be a problem, maybe not.
I need to scrape it a little better than the picture.


IMG_0249.JPG


I got the front galley's tapped ....I measured with a cheap pair of Harbor freight calipers I have for out in the barn. from the front edge I got a reading of 1/2" to the bearing feed hole
in the center galley. I used a 7/16" length steel plug. this gave me a safety margin of 1/16"


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IMG_0236.JPG


And for Brian, These were my weapons of choice below
 

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Talked to my machinist and he said he would wait until Sunday to do the bore work. That way we can let the fill cure properly.
I was happy to hear him offer that option for me.

Got my lifters and oil pump delivered today also.

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I will take the pump apart and check clearances while the block is out for machining.

I finished my gauge cluster panel also. Still need my oil temp gauge and replace the boost gauge ..

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My steering wheel is 14" in diameter and I am going to replace it with a 12" so I can see the gauges better. Notice my boost gauge, it reads a couple lbs of vacuum
with NO ENGINE. LOL.

Don't remember if I showed the new OH SH%t bars for the victims that like to ride along with me!

IMG_0187.JPG
 
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