Unforgiven Project

Unforgiven said:
I'm calling B.S. on that one.:D

Grumpy has a thread related to the situation in the rotating section.
Page 3 half way down titled "
how to install a 2piece rear seal crank in 1 piece block
Click to expand...
Ok.
B.S. it is.
Never seen that ever.
No one here has ever done it here.
Billet split adapter.
Have to machine up an alignment tool.
Multiple Leakage points potential present.
How much is that M.OF.O. ?
FREE ?
LIKELY NOTTA.
LOOKS LIKE $$$.

Gotta fix that GM Race block yet too.

Dart Little M with China wall blem & end mill error facing on freeze plug surface lot better than present deal (s).
 
Unforgiven said:
Yes I can watch it tonight.. But it was just the principle!
It was a planned attack on me so she could watch her HALLMARK show!!! :D
Click to expand...
You should have asked to have SEX and she would have run out of the room and you would have had the TV all to yourself.:rolleyes:
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
Well......May 1st is coming up.
What is going on ?
Click to expand...

The way things are playing out... I'll be lucky to be up and running by August.

Can't get the block into machine shop for another week.
Have to align bore and hone mains , hone cam tunnel, deck heads, hone cylinders, check lifter bores.....ect.
Converting block today from dry sump to wet sump oil feed. I can't afford a dry sump system. Sooo... I will be polishing out the block and getting it ready for machining next week end
 
^^ LOL he would prolly keep me on the clock with overtime if I told him that!
Ryan had a lot to catch up on but he says he will be picking up the block this week
to dowel the caps then send it out to be line bored.
That's the first thing that has to be done before we can move forward.

I measured the steel main caps by mounting them in my "wire edm" machine and did a 3 point pick up.
They are only 2.602 diameter now and must finish out to 2.6406 after hone.
I have decided to re-use the cast rear main cap to mount the oil pump on too.

As far as the cam tunnel.. there is some surface rust (powder) that did not clean up.
I was going to hit it with some 600 wet sand paper but decided that I would have it cleaned with
a hone.. I will talk to them about the bearing size also. Because I see that the bowtie block has 2.000
diameter bearings. But the man I bought the block from says it uses standard SBC bearings?

Yea... I will have to pay for most of the machine work now.
Between buying the block and having it machined, I will have about $1000 into it.
That was a big chunk of parts money that got used unexpectedly for sure.
 
Grumpy I have a Question for you. I have been reading your info on installing a 2 piece crank seal in a 1 piece block and I am getting confused. I plan on using the rear main cap (wet sump ) from my old block and incorperate it onto the new 1 piece block as shown in one of your pics below.

My question is: All the adapters I am looking at have the upper and lower halves. Do I purchase one and discard the pan half of the adapter in lui of the main cap, as what appears in the picture below. Or is there a special adapter plate
made for this application.
rcon5.jpg




This is what I was looking to purchase , and discard the pan half of it.

21-850-1RearSealAdapter__30048.1529435594.jpg
 
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keep in mind the adapter assumes your using a crank that does not match the block,
Id call the adapter manufacturer and ask their advice
rearsealadap3.jpg

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/STF-7036/?rtype=10


Canton Racing Products 203-481-9460

Allstar Performance 1-269-463-8000

Moroso
(203) 458 0542


B&B
(732) 367-8700

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/rear-main-seal-adapters?sortby=Default&sortorder=Ascending&keyword=rear main seal adapters&kr=rear main seal adapters
theres two distinct oil pan and engine block styles, and both big block and small block rear seal adapter kits,
you could be using a newer one piece crank in an older two piece rear seal block,or some other combo, all adapters will not work correctly.
obviously the adapter ,block, crank and oil pan must all be compatible for the application for the adapter and crank seal to work correctly.
you would use the oil pan that matches the component parts being used.
onesealvstwo.jpg

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...main-seal-in-a-gen-i-chevy-v8.1718/#post-4257
 
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should have the block back on saturday. They made a rear oil seal adapter for me, doweled the caps. and are making a billet rear main (wet) cap today.
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Unforgiven said:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Plat...MImpiC05vV4QIVBrXACh2VhATSEAQYBiABEgJQg_D_BwE

I have been looking at these shaft rockers for awhile and I'm am hesitant about them. I originally planned on a set of 1.6 Scorpion full roller rockers which also are in my price range.
Has anyone ever used or heard of these shaft rockers?
I will most likely not rev past 6500 rpm with the new motor if that matters.
Click to expand...
Might Be Ok.
Price is low.
Try and find feedback.
Low cost parts usually have issues but not always.
Usually $2k stainless Steel Crower Shaft rockers.
 
Well this twiddling my thumbs is getting old. After talking with my friend he said he got the new billet rear wet main cap done and the three center steel caps are doweled. He said he would feel more comfortable if we sent the block to one of their outsource companies to line bore and hone the caps, deck the block, check the cam tunnel, and plate hone the cylinder bores. I was told I should have the block back by the middle of next week (at a cost of $725).
I think he may be gun shy! lol
Race season starts next week and I am just going to help in the pit crew for one of my friends until I finish my block. Which is looking like the end of July now. But.... it is what it is. Not going to rush anything.
 
Unforgiven said:
Well this twiddling my thumbs is getting old. After talking with my friend he said he got the new billet rear wet main cap done and the three center steel caps are doweled. He said he would feel more comfortable if we sent the block to one of their outsource companies to line bore and hone the caps, deck the block, check the cam tunnel, and plate hone the cylinder bores. I was told I should have the block back by the middle of next week (at a cost of $725).
I think he may be gun shy! lol
Race season starts next week and I am just going to help in the pit crew for one of my friends until I finish my block. Which is looking like the end of July now. But.... it is what it is. Not going to rush anything.
Click to expand...
Best to listen to your friend and wait.
If he wants to outsource let him do it.
 
I have decided to just stick with a new set of Scorpion 1.6 rockers instead of that off brand shaft system.
 
Unforgiven said:
I have decided to just stick with a new set of Scorpion 1.6 rockers instead of that off brand shaft system.
Click to expand...
They work OK Scorpion.
Installed on Ford engines in the race shop in past I worked for.
Geometry checked OK.

Rumor going around on Chevy BB groups Crane Gold Rockers are made by Comp now.
Kick in the groin.
 
I heard that also.
Man! My wife is NOT liking my hobbie more and more each day! She made me spend $3500 on a new front door last night, and today I am picking up my new Exmark zero turn. My old one finally had had enough and refused to cut anymore lawn. It was 20 years old. But DAMN....the price of the new ones went ski high. I had to fork over $8900 .
I am hoping she leaves me enough cash to finish my motor! lol
 
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