Unforgiven Project

Thank you Brian.
I do not want to be one of those guys who does not finish with my build.
That is a big reason I have not bought anything yet. The Dart block was unexpected, and is going to set me back abit. I am adding $350 a week to this build fund. I have a list of parts down to a gasket cost wrote down for the build. I am just under $5000 with out the block.

The Aluminum heads I have only have about 4 hours of run time on them. I realize that even when the motor is not running , there is tension on the springs,
but they were installed onto the motor last April. I think the valvesprings should still be ok.
 
we ALL face a lack of funding large enough to accomplish the goals we want to achieve
Ive been slowly accumulating parts for a serious BBC /c4 corvette swap for over 10 years ,
I could easily have done it 8-9 years ago ,
if I was not supporting my son and his wife and 3 kids ,on my fixed income.
the problem with this hobby at times is realistic priorities get in the way of your desired goals
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
All aftermarket new you need to budget $2,000-5,000 per month for it.
Or it will never happen. The Truth.
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I have to disagree with that... In my case that is..
It took me 2 1/2 years to build the truck from "0" dollars.
It took about $25,000 to get it to where it is today. I designed and built and machined ALOT!
I am disciplined enough to save what I need.
 
Unforgiven said:
Thinking about all that, I am kicking around the idea of having the crank reground and install new bearings and call it a day with this motor.
If it blows it blows. All I will be out (money wise ) is the regrind cost, bearings and gaskets.
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It's not ONLY about the money, it takes time to build a motor right. It took me over a year, granted
I am slow. But the point is, leave enough time to do the job right. If you find yourself running out
of time and the season is about to start, you might start cutting some corners that you would NOT
have done had you enough time and not be rushed.

When does your season start and end???
 
Total Seal makes the best piston rings.
They make nice Moly Top Ring Sets compatible with mild boost in 5/64" Top, 5/64" 2nd, 3/16" oil ring standard street tension. For SBC TRW pistons.
I would spend a little more for the Ductile iron top ring with plasma moly face.
 
Indycars said:
When does your season start and end???
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May 1st thru mid October


Maniacmechanic1 said:
Total Seal makes the best piston rings.
They make nice Moly Top Ring Sets compatible with mild boost in 5/64" Top, 5/64" 2nd, 3/16" oil ring standard street tension. For SBC TRW pistons.
I would spend a little more for the Ductile iron top ring with plasma moly face.
Click to expand...

Was just looking at those rings Summit has them for $125
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
Ok . Ductile Iron Plasma Moly is best before you step up to Hellfire Tool Steel or Stainless Rings from Total Seal.
They cost $600- 1000 per set typical.
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I've only seen the hellfire rings in 1/16" size.... I need 5/64"
besides... this motor does not warrant hellfire rings.
 
Unforgiven said:
Nice! Thank you Brian
Can these be filed to size for fitment?
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Yes.
The gaps may fall on the High side.
I was trying to find File to Fit they usually listed as .005" Over to allow plenty of ring material to File Fit.
But Ring Sets by Total Seal listed on Summit Racing as 4.035" (.035" over) are all 1/16" - 1/16" -3/16" or 3mm oil ring sets for modern race forged pistons.

You can call Total Seal direct and they will put together a custom ring set.
Tell them you want for 4.035" bore so you can file fit.
 
Unforgiven said:
Thinking about all that, I am kicking around the idea of having the crank reground and install new bearings and call it a day with this motor. If it blows it blows. All I will be out (money wise ) is the regrind cost, bearings and gaskets.
Click to expand...

That IS what I would do, absolutely. Who agrees with this statement?.... The engines you build from parts you have and low budget seem to be the ones that perform the best and the ones you have the most fun with. Beat the hell out of them and they just seem to keep going, and going, and going. When they finally do quit, you are not that upset because you don't have a fortune invested in it. GO FOR IT!
 
Well You Have Mike, T-Test, & Myself saying get it done on a tight budget & get back out Racing in 1 month time away !
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
Well You Have Mike, T-Test, & Myself saying get it done on a tight budget & get back out Racing in 1 month time away !
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I'm getting a Fan Club! I like it. LOL

Talked to my engine machinist (Randy) yesterday. I told him about the game plan with this motor and the DART motor build. Said he would love to be onboard! Told him I would be dropping off motor this weekend for inspection and refresh.
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
The gaps may fall on the High side.
Click to expand...

With a blower, that may not be a bad thing.. I will call them and get more info. I was thinking .005 - .0055 would be where I need to be with low (6 lbs) boost on this motor.
I,ll call Total Seal for recommendations.
 
Just got off the phone with TotalSeal. Jason told me that they make a CR909035 file fit ring. It is ductile iron plasma coat. I see Summit
does carry them at $104.99 a set. Funny how Summit has them listed as a "no" file fit in their overview.
Anyway, I will most likely be ordering these next week when I talk with my machinist Randy.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tsr-cr909035
 
Unforgiven said:
Just got off the phone with TotalSeal. Jason told me that they make a CR909035 file fit ring. It is ductile iron plasma coat. I see Summit
does carry them at $104.99 a set. Funny how Summit has them listed as a "no" file fit in their overview.
Anyway, I will most likely be ordering these next week when I talk with my machinist Randy.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tsr-cr909035
Click to expand...
Nice. Get it done and get back out Racing.
Have a backup engine being built later this year.
May the Drag Mudtruck Force Be With You !
 
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