busterrm
solid fixture here in the forum
You should check them, make sure the gap is right!
Unforgiven Project
- Thread starter Unforgiven
- Start date
Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
The fella I was hoping to buy the dart block from backed out. Understandable being it was his late fathers block.
So....I sent the old block to be cleaned an checked by our local automotive machine shop. I just got it back saturday.
He furnace burnt and blasted it. Then he magna fluxed it. He only found one crack on the outside starter bolt hole. The rest of the block
checked good. Also the old crank was straight as an arrow. I asked him to go ahead and regrind it for the back-up motor.
He said that being I am putting block fill in .... I should be fine putting the new parts into it. (the motor ran fine before the teardown so...)
I have pics below of what I have done today. I ground out the lifter valley and cleaned up the inside of the chain case. I took a bunch out of the front drain hole floor but I still have a slight rise in the opening.
I was getting nervous about going too deep and hitting the galleries. I also opened up the rear drain holes quite abit, and cut the ledge underneath of them. I have about 6 hours into the work. I purchased new
carbide burrs in different lengths and both single and double cut. They worked like a charm.
I also deburred all the extra cast flashings that were on the outside of the block and chamfered all the sharp edges.
My new rotating assembly is being balanced to 1/2 gram (so they say) and should be here next week. I will then send the block to another performance shop (Kaytec) for more machining.
I am going to open the outer lifter galleries to 7/16" and the main gally to 1/2"... Then I am having the outer main saddles drilled with a 1/4" diameter drill and will have the 3 center saddles opened up
to 5/16" diameter thru to the main gallery. I got the idea from watching that Headbytes guy online.
I upgraded my rings to plasma moly so i need to call total seal and ask what they recommend for a finish RA on the cylinders.
Here are some pics for you guys.
So....I sent the old block to be cleaned an checked by our local automotive machine shop. I just got it back saturday.
He furnace burnt and blasted it. Then he magna fluxed it. He only found one crack on the outside starter bolt hole. The rest of the block
checked good. Also the old crank was straight as an arrow. I asked him to go ahead and regrind it for the back-up motor.
He said that being I am putting block fill in .... I should be fine putting the new parts into it. (the motor ran fine before the teardown so...)
I have pics below of what I have done today. I ground out the lifter valley and cleaned up the inside of the chain case. I took a bunch out of the front drain hole floor but I still have a slight rise in the opening.
I was getting nervous about going too deep and hitting the galleries. I also opened up the rear drain holes quite abit, and cut the ledge underneath of them. I have about 6 hours into the work. I purchased new
carbide burrs in different lengths and both single and double cut. They worked like a charm.
I also deburred all the extra cast flashings that were on the outside of the block and chamfered all the sharp edges.
My new rotating assembly is being balanced to 1/2 gram (so they say) and should be here next week. I will then send the block to another performance shop (Kaytec) for more machining.
I am going to open the outer lifter galleries to 7/16" and the main gally to 1/2"... Then I am having the outer main saddles drilled with a 1/4" diameter drill and will have the 3 center saddles opened up
to 5/16" diameter thru to the main gallery. I got the idea from watching that Headbytes guy online.
I upgraded my rings to plasma moly so i need to call total seal and ask what they recommend for a finish RA on the cylinders.
Here are some pics for you guys.
Attachments
Loves302Chevy
"One test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
Nice work with the grinder.
Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
Thank you Mike..
I started out with air die grinder and a carbide burr, then went back in with a air right angle grinder with a # 60 2" sanding disk.
I started out with air die grinder and a carbide burr, then went back in with a air right angle grinder with a # 60 2" sanding disk.
yeah, taking the effort to prep the block tends to reduces problems later,
and it looks like youve done a nice job so far.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-after-a-cam-lobe-rod-or-bearings-fail.2919/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-bearing-install-tools-install-info.1479/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...te-filter-require-a-new-pump.3144/#post-62980
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-cooler-increases-durability.176/#post-48374
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-a-custom-wet-sump-oil-pan.65/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-accumulator.1280/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/basic-info-on-your-v8-lube-system.52/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/whats-a-windage-tray-do.64/
and it looks like youve done a nice job so far.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-after-a-cam-lobe-rod-or-bearings-fail.2919/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-bearing-install-tools-install-info.1479/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...te-filter-require-a-new-pump.3144/#post-62980
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-cooler-increases-durability.176/#post-48374
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-a-custom-wet-sump-oil-pan.65/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-accumulator.1280/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/basic-info-on-your-v8-lube-system.52/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/whats-a-windage-tray-do.64/
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Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
Thank you Grumpy!
I have tried to follow as much advise you have offered.
I was conflicted as to whether or not to install those oil restrictors in the valley. Then I remembered a thread where you stated that a good windage tray
and a properly installed crank scraper would be more beneficial. I am going the tray and scraper route.
As for opening the gallies up... It seems to be a good idea to me... But last night a friend said that velocity sometimes is better than volume.
Now he is younger and more in tune with the LS motors which have main priority oiling. My SBC does NOT.
I thought that this was a good idea for a SBC... Maybe i'm wrong?
What are your thoughts on this.
I have tried to follow as much advise you have offered.
I was conflicted as to whether or not to install those oil restrictors in the valley. Then I remembered a thread where you stated that a good windage tray
and a properly installed crank scraper would be more beneficial. I am going the tray and scraper route.
As for opening the gallies up... It seems to be a good idea to me... But last night a friend said that velocity sometimes is better than volume.
Now he is younger and more in tune with the LS motors which have main priority oiling. My SBC does NOT.
I thought that this was a good idea for a SBC... Maybe i'm wrong?
What are your thoughts on this.
Im not 100% sure, exactly what your wanting to do,modify, or ignore ,
could you be a bit more specific?
if your referring to this oil gallery mod, (below)
its NOT required, millions of engines are built without it,
but it certainly would not hurt if properly done,
on a nearly stock performance build, ( engines spends most of its time, under 6000 rpm and 450 hp)
its not something Id be looking at as a huge improvement.
Id be more concerned with,
purchase, install and use of a 6-7 quart baffled oil pan,
rather than a stock 4-5 quart -NON-baffled pan,
and correctly prepping and clearancing the oil pump.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-after-a-cam-lobe-rod-or-bearings-fail.2919/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-bearing-install-tools-install-info.1479/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...te-filter-require-a-new-pump.3144/#post-62980
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-cooler-increases-durability.176/#post-48374
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-a-custom-wet-sump-oil-pan.65/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-accumulator.1280/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/basic-info-on-your-v8-lube-system.52/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/whats-a-windage-tray-do.64/
http://buydrillbits.com/products/hss/gp2.php?c=AIR
http://www.victornet.com/subdepartments/HS-Long-Drills/1180.html
could you be a bit more specific?
if your referring to this oil gallery mod, (below)
its NOT required, millions of engines are built without it,
but it certainly would not hurt if properly done,
on a nearly stock performance build, ( engines spends most of its time, under 6000 rpm and 450 hp)
its not something Id be looking at as a huge improvement.
Id be more concerned with,
purchase, install and use of a 6-7 quart baffled oil pan,
rather than a stock 4-5 quart -NON-baffled pan,
and correctly prepping and clearancing the oil pump.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/block-prep.125/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-after-a-cam-lobe-rod-or-bearings-fail.2919/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/cam-bearing-install-tools-install-info.1479/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...te-filter-require-a-new-pump.3144/#post-62980
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-cooler-increases-durability.176/#post-48374
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-a-custom-wet-sump-oil-pan.65/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-accumulator.1280/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/basic-info-on-your-v8-lube-system.52/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/whats-a-windage-tray-do.64/
http://buydrillbits.com/products/hss/gp2.php?c=AIR
http://www.victornet.com/subdepartments/HS-Long-Drills/1180.html
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Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
Yes.. it was an oil galley mod. I had seen a fella (Headbytes) drill the main oil gallery open to a 1/2" diameter . And then from the bottom, open the main oil feeds in # 2-4 main bearing saddles to 5/16" diameter thru to the main oil galley.
It made sense to me but it is a new mod that I have never heard done before.
That is why I was questioning it.
It made sense to me but it is a new mod that I have never heard done before.
That is why I was questioning it.
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
Better off building the crank scraper into the oil pan.
Some crank scrapers may starve the piston wrist pins of oil.
An endurance engine of sorts you have along with Drag Mud.
Going to spin to 7k.
Crank scraper kinda iffy in a Pontiac V8.
Oil pan or built into windage tray Ok.
Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
Yes .. I have heeded that advise. I was looking at the moroso part number 20191 pan.
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
8-9 quarts even better if it fits.
Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
Hello Brian.
I have been thinking about installing those pin sprayers, but I am not sure if I would need them.
I would like to install a spray bar on top for the springs though, Being I am partially filling the block I thought that anything that helps keep the motor
cooler would be a benifit.
As of now I have:
A larger radiator out of a dodge V-10 truck which sits in the bed of my truck. I used custom bent 1 5/8" conduit pipe that is run from the motor
down along the frame and up through the box into the radiator. That added about an extra 2 gallons of antifreeze over the stock system. My motor never got hot.
The trans cooler is also in the bed of the truck.
I am adding an oil cooler with 8an fittings as a upgrade with this new build .
I have been thinking about installing those pin sprayers, but I am not sure if I would need them.
I would like to install a spray bar on top for the springs though, Being I am partially filling the block I thought that anything that helps keep the motor
cooler would be a benifit.
As of now I have:
A larger radiator out of a dodge V-10 truck which sits in the bed of my truck. I used custom bent 1 5/8" conduit pipe that is run from the motor
down along the frame and up through the box into the radiator. That added about an extra 2 gallons of antifreeze over the stock system. My motor never got hot.
The trans cooler is also in the bed of the truck.
I am adding an oil cooler with 8an fittings as a upgrade with this new build .
Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
I was thinking that with the extra oil in the lines and cooler, I would be ok.?
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-23900/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-23920/
Moroso Oil Accumalotor I want in 2019.
Save the engine. Makes almost good as dry sump race.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-23920/
Moroso Oil Accumalotor I want in 2019.
Save the engine. Makes almost good as dry sump race.
Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
Hello Rick,
ok... that advise will be heeded also.
Rick what did you use for an oil pump?
ok... that advise will be heeded also.
Rick what did you use for an oil pump?
Unforgiven
solid fixture here in the forum
I was reading one of Grumpy's posts where it says we can use a standard BBC oil pump and gain improvement. I am still reading the article. something about pulsating issues with a SBC pump.
you can use either the SBC or BBC oil pump in a performance SBC engine build,
but in most standard mild performance applications the BBC oil pump is not needed, the
performance SBC oil pump will function fine.
where most people go wrong is in the use of the BBC oil pump on a rather standard SBC rebuild,
oil pan floor to oil pump pick-up clearance can be rather tight,
and youll generally want a 7-8 quart baffled oil pan and windage tray,
to use the pump a smaller capacity oil pan may be restricting oil flow
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sbc-oil-pump-noise.14582/#post-77554
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-an-oil-pump-pick-up-tube.1800/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearings-and-oil-flow.150/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bbc-oil-pump-in-a-sbc.2598/
but in most standard mild performance applications the BBC oil pump is not needed, the
performance SBC oil pump will function fine.
where most people go wrong is in the use of the BBC oil pump on a rather standard SBC rebuild,
oil pan floor to oil pump pick-up clearance can be rather tight,
and youll generally want a 7-8 quart baffled oil pan and windage tray,
to use the pump a smaller capacity oil pan may be restricting oil flow
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sbc-oil-pump-noise.14582/#post-77554
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-an-oil-pump-pick-up-tube.1800/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearings-and-oil-flow.150/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bbc-oil-pump-in-a-sbc.2598/
Maniacmechanic1
solid fixture here in the forum
BLP BO LAWS IN FLORIDA SELLS THE BEST PIN PISTON OILER KITS. IT'S THE ONLY I WOULD USE ON A SMALL BLOCK CHEVY. I KNOW THIER PRODUCTS FROM DIRT TRACK RACING HERE IN ILLINOIS.