Upgrade/convert 6 way seats to Corvette C4 Sport Seat

Discussion in 'Interiors/trim/dashes etc.' started by JakeAl, Jun 10, 2018.

  1. JakeAl

    JakeAl Member

    So i have aquired newer sport seats. They look good with all the guts. The old leather seats are ripped, worn and look shot.

    I'm inquiring about power sources and connectors to run the lumbar and bolster features. At present i have the 6 way adjustable seats in and operational.

    I haven't taken the old seats out yet. I'm assuming the harnesses to run the new seats will have to be retrofitted with additional connectors/wiring so sport seat functions will operate.

    Any information or part numbers to successfully make this change over is appreciated.
  2. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    can you let us know exactly what year corvette your removing the old seats from,
    and what year corvette you got the new replacement sport seats from that you intend to install?
    the fact is that even different seats in the same year corvette at times require different wire connections
    clear detailed pictures of the wire harness connectors, and mounting brackets etc.
    in the car you own after the old seats are removed, and the wire connections on the new seats would help a great deal,
    and yes the wire schematics can be located, and yeah, its not necessarily a direct nor an easy swap or even easy to do!
    Id also point out that before anyone thinks about doing that swap they might really want to actually sit in someones corvette that has the exact seats they intend to install,
    one of my friends spent close to $1200 on almost new sport seats from a very low mileage corvette that was only two years newer than his 1992 corvette,
    once installed (and he took it to a custom auto upholstery shop and paid several hundred dollars , to do the swap,
    he found the sport seats with the higher padded side support pads,
    were too narrow for his wide butt, too sit in comfortably, the original seats could have been re-upholstered for much less and they fit ,
    but he liked the idea of "increased side support in the sport seats,
    but he never even tried too sit in the seats before ordering a set, or having them installed and the old seats thrown in the dumpster!!"
    yeah! they look great, his wife loves them, he needs to loose a few pounds before he fits in the drivers seat comfortably:D:rolleyes:






    Last edited: Jun 10, 2018
  3. JakeAl

    JakeAl Member

    The seats are in my 91 c4. The info on the replacements say that they fit 90-92 with no other details. I did price out redoing the originals. It wasn't cheap. The price difference between repairing and replacing with slightly used was about break even. Plus the replacements are a nice red with the originals being black (and ragged). I want a break from the entirely black interior. Also the additional features and look of the sport seat i found desireable. Then there's the fact that I've had back problems.

    I have the service manuals which have been helpful to a degree. It's surprising to me how something as basic, at first glance, as a seat can be complicated.

    I read several varying opinions on different seats. I guess a person can embrace whichever suits them. The newer seats are snug but comfortable imo.

    I'll pull the passenger seat tomorrow, look around for treasure and take some pictures. I imagine with some study and/or help, i can get something going.

    Thank you.
  4. JakeAl

    JakeAl Member

    I removed the old passenger side seat.
    This involved removing 4 bolts under the seat bottom. Luckily my mechanical skills are such that i was able to accomplish this. ;) in fact i am usually pretty good at taking things apart.... putting them back together not so much. It did take some maneuvering to get the bolt holes to line up with the new seat frame.

    Upon looking at the new seat I noticed that there's only 1 electrical connector with 2 wires. I'M assuming these are 1 each negative and positive.

    For now the plan is to splice into nearby + & - wires.

    I'm led to believe that one of the former owners might be some degree of a klansman. (Note the bumper sticker I found after removing the seat.

    This person might be upset knowing that the present owner is is a bit more of what the kkk calls a mud race than a Caucasian.
  5. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member

    you might want too look closely at the required and existing electrical connector's
    and buy and splice in the appropriate matching male/female pigtail connector required.

    theres nothing preventing you from purchasing two new moisture proof locking connectors with the correct number of contacts and wires and using heat shrink tube and lead/tin solder and flux to make a 100% new and totally dependable snap together electrical connector on both the seat and electrical feed/ground and control connections








    btw in any large group of people,
    REGARDLESS of race/skin tone,
    sex, age, or ethnicity,national origin,etc.
    there always has been and will continue too be,
    some really nice people, that are intelligent ,inventive, helpful, caring and fun too be around...
    and a few people that are,
    greedy,selfish, cheating ,insane,thieves,or other wise useless,
    too and detrimental too humanity,
    .that are a total wastes of air they breath,
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2018
  6. Maniacmechanic1

    Maniacmechanic1 solid fixture here in the forum

    Like Grumpy said.
    Ignore that crap.
  7. JakeAl

    JakeAl Member

    This is the factory connector part included with the seat and with this stamped on it:
    Con II Optimized-20180611_154807.jpg
    Haven't found the other piece of the connector yet.

  8. Grumpy

    Grumpy The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer. Staff Member


    something like this would solve the issues quickly



    I.ve been doing similar solder jobs for decades,
    don,t forget too slip the correct size of shrink tube over one end of the two wires too be soldered,

    I thought that electrical wire wrap, then solder the two together skill was common knowledge
    the secret is to strip and carefully clean the copper wire surface, then dip it in the flux
    your chances of getting a good electrical bond on a soldered connection increases a significant percentage if you use clean copper paste flux and a high quality 300-400 watt solder gun,

    a good deal of flux on the copper and real tin/lead solder does wonders,
    in making a great low resistance ,electrical connection, after both exposed wire tips are carefully cleaned wrap then tightly together as in the diagram below, re-coat with flux then heat until solder flows easily over the surfaces and between strand, then slip the heat shrink tube in place and use the solder gun placed close too, but not touching the heat shrink tubing to shrink it into place

    it has become rather obvious to me, after watching my neighbor try to repair his older muscle cars under dash wiring, that many guys have no concept of how to correctly make a wire splice repair so i figure IL post the basics here.


    http://www.harborfreight.com/127-piece- ... 67524.html
    http://www.bing.com/shopping/weller-wel ... ORM=CMSPEE
    anything under about 200 watts rating is basically a P.I.T.A. to use and a TOY in my opinion,
    (and an electric soldering gun with 250-300 plus watts is much easier to use)

    http://www.cpooutlets.com/wall-lenk-lg400c-150-400w-soldering-gun/walnlg400c,default,pd.html?ref=bingpla&zmam=31282435&zmas=47&zmac=748&zmap=walnlg400c&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=CPO Outlets - PLA - Updated&utm_term=4582008550901832&utm_content=All Products

    a 150/400 watt gun makes soldering much easier


    simply because you can't quickly bring the wire and solder up to the correct temps,
    with anything less than 200 watts rapidly

    good 60/40 lead/tin solder
    http://www.bing.com/shopping/4-oz-40-60 ... ux&FORM=EG

    http://www.sears.com/seismic-audio-sa-s ... tType=SRDT
    http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... d=12582872
  9. JakeAl

    JakeAl Member

    Ok Grumpy. I was thinking there's someone who knew the part and go from there. Any old connector will do in reality.

    I also changed out the drivers seat. Piece of cake. Went in much easier which leads me to think the passenger side rails are distorded. It does make some noiss. I'm not messing with it now.. I'll fool with the wiring later too.

    They look good. Thanks.

Share This Page