HEY GRUMPYVETTE?
I am about to pull the engine out of my car for a freshen up, rings bearings etc and have been thinking about ways that I can make the engine Bullet proof.
I drive it hard, run a manual and like to go fast but always have the thought in the back of my mind that the engine is going to go BANG so would like to buy myself some piece of mind.
Had the engine freshened and dynoed a year or so ago by a professional builder but have not been really happy with it since. Made lots of power, 480hp 540lbft, but started breathing quite heavily not long after the rebuild so am going to go through it again, rings bearings gaskets etc.
Is is only a 2 bolt block so I am never going to be able to go mad but the more I think about it the more i feel that a set of Eagle rods and a balance would be of benefit.
So, my question is, does anyone have any opinions on this and are the Eagle rods any good.
https://www.mfrexpress.com/alloy-swivel ... p-701.html
lets put it this way I give away for free or UNLESS its a stock rebuild for a car or truck used as daily transportation, I usually throw ALL 3/8" rod bolt chevy OEM connecting rods in the dumpster, and use SCAT,EAGLE,OLIVER or CARRILLO, MANELY , OR CROWER connecting rods with 7/16" rod bolts as a standard procedure on rebuilds.
it costs more to correctly rebuild chevy rods and add 7/16" arp bolts than some of the decent but low cost aftermarket connecting rods cost.
http://www.adperformance.com/index.php? ... =67_87_131
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=510
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku
adding an ecomomically affordable 1/4" stroker kit to a 454 thats not going to be abused a great deal, as its mostly a street/strip deal is a NO BRAINER its FREE HP/TQ and I can,t see why almost every rebuild doesn,t do this as an option,
but because your running pump gas and adding displacemeny ID suggest boosting the cpr to about 9.6:1 and adding ARP main studs durring the rebuild and keeping the RPMs to UNDER 6000rpm with the stroker crank, in that two bolt block.
http://www.adperformance.com/index.php? ... =67_87_131
http://store.survivalmotorsports.com/scat.html
btw a cam like this in a 10:1 cpr 496 with the correct matched drive train gearing and trans would be impressive on the street
http://store.survivalmotorsports.com/ca ... haust.html
$200 more gets you a forged component deal
Eagle 4.25 "496" Competition Stroker Kit, 10:1, Forged, 2rms
$1,699.00
Eagle 4340 Forged Competition Rotating Assembly
Eagle 4340 Forged 4.250 Stroke Crankshaft
Eagle 4340 Forged 3D H-beam Rods (W/ ARP 8740 Bolts)
JE SRP 18cc Dome Piston (~10.2:1 w/ 118cc heads, others available)
Perfect Circle or Mahle Plasma Premium Performance Rings
Clevite or King Competition Series Rod and Main Bearings
We can fully customize these kits to your needs. If you don't see it listed please inquire.
Competition 454 Rotating Assemblies
2pc Rear Main Seal
All Eagle Competition assemblies include our forged 4340 chromoly crankshaft, our forged 4340 chromoly H-beam rods, forged SRP pistons, Clevite77 race bearings, and Perfect Circle Rings. All are designed for internal balance.
Recommended for use up to 850 HP (1500 HP with optional ARP L-19 bolts)
Grumpy
What are your opinions on the Com Cams 292H cam with the 496?
Car is a 56 Chevy with a DNE 5 Speed and a 9"ford with a 3.0 ratio and 29" tyres.
Not sure on the weight but I would guestimate around 3500lb?
now its obvious that each person defines (STREETABLE) in a differant way and some guys don,t mind having to drop down a gear and reve the engine to get moving or have stuff on the dash bounce around at idle, I define (STREETABLE) as having a combo you can jump into and drive on a 1500-2000 mile trip without worrying about problems, or sitting in 2 mph traffic for an hour without having to shut the darn thing off.
heres how comp cams lists that cam
"HYDRAULIC-Street/strip applications. Hyd. Hyd. 2500 to 6500 11-213-3 292H 292 292 244 244 .550 .550 110°
10:1+ compression, 3000+ stall or 4 speed.
4.10 or lower gears & aftermarket intake.
Very rough idle."
that 3.0 rear gear will cause problems
heres the two next milder cams they list
HYDRAULIC-Great for street machines. Hyd. Hyd. 2000 to 6000 11-208-3 280H 280 280 230 230 .520 .520 110°
Use headers and 9:1+ compression. In
396-402 use 2500+ stall, lower
gears. Rough idle.
HYDRAULIC-Needs 9.5:1 compression, Hyd. Hyd. 2200 to 6200 11-318-4 286H 286 286 236 236 .556 .556 110°
2800+ stall, headers, and lower gears.
Choppy idle.
if your intention is good street manors ID sellect one of THOSE, MILDER CAMS, and keep the cpr in the 9:1-9.5:1 range
yes before you ask the H292 makes more hp and yes a 496 displacement tends to make the cam act milder........BUT your still probably going to want a 3.54-3.73 :1 rear gear ,to make the combo pleasant to drive,in traffic, your first gear ratio times the rear gear ratio should generally fall in the 10:1 range in a performance car, ESPECIALLY with a cam that won,t run really smooth below about 2000-2500rpm .
If your trying to get max hp on a strict budget,thats a totally differant goal, and a 496 BBC with 12.7:1 cpr and a cam like this
Chevrolet Performance Camshaft; Part Number SS4265
lifter-type
Solid
Big Block 1967-93 396-454; intake-duration@.050 lift 264; exhaust-duration@.050 lift 274; intake-lift .612; exhaust-lift .637; lobe sep angle 108
will get you that killer hp,compared to the milder engine combo, both on a low budget 496 build, but youll want 4.56:1 rear gears and heads like these
http://www.trickflow.com/partdetail.asp ... toview=sku
http://www.airflowresearch.com/17-23.pdf
and it won,t be a decent daily transportation, and it probably won,t run well on pump gas.
adding the extra displacement and higher compression with a stroker kit will boost torque noticeably from the current 454 combo, if you keep the same type cam its going to run noticeable better with the changes, but you need to define your goals, if its a great combo for cruising and massive torque thats way different than going for impressive peak hp numbers, you'll still destroy tires at will with either combo, but the milder one will do it almost instantly when the throttles depressed while the other combo will make the car faster, but less fun to drive in traffic.having a REV-KIT that retains the lifters in their bores, to maintain oil pressure, even if the rocker comes loose or push rods breaks is a good idea