valve cover gaskets

grumpyvette

grumpyvette

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a few things you should know

Ive had the best luck with the extra thick synthetic /cork composite mix gaskets

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FPP-1604&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FPP-1630&autoview=sku

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performance- ... 5/10002/-1

[1] synthetic oil desolves that yellow 3m weatherstrip gasket adhesive than many guys use over a few months time so you cant use it to glue valve cover gaskets

[2]you must use a o2 safe gasket cement like the BLACK RTV silicone cement and you must clean and degrease the cover with acetone or a similar solvent before glueing on the gasket to get the best retention

[3]you need to allow at least a few hours to over night,depends mostly on temp. for that black silicone gasket cement to set up before installing the valve covers, and placeing them gasket side down on a table with a sheet of wax paper under them and a 20lb weight on top of each valve cover while the cement sets up is the best way to insure the gaskets stay correctly aligned on the valve covers perimeter

[4]a light coat of (PAM) cooking spray on the lower gasket surface keeps them from sticking to the cylinder heads after installation

[5] these gasket retaining rings add a great deal to the valve covers ability to firmly hold the gasket WITHOUT bending SHEET METAL VALVE COVERS OR CRACKING CAST ALUMINUM VALVE COVERS AND ARE WELL WORTH THE MINIMAL COST

77866291BC_large.jpg


[6]doing it correctly the first time saves time and money

BTW using load spreader clip tabs between the valve cover hold down bolts and the valve cover helps prevent leaks, bent or cracked valve covers
mor-68516.jpg


http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_25118_-1

yes you get a PAIR at that price
 
you could always powder coat the lower section to match your engine,s color , or just buy the black powder coated versions
91017157_L.jpg

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http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Valve-Cover-Adapter-for-Center-Bolt-Heads,1890.html
there are adapters that allow you to run standard , early perimeter bolt valve covers on the later center bolt heads

pro-141-914_w.jpg

WHILE THESE ARE RATHER EXPENSIVE VALVE COVERS THEY HAVE ADVANTAGES THAT I THINK MAKE THEM WORTH THE COST
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-141-913
procov1.png

procov2.png

91017157_L.jpg

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Valve-Cover-Adapter-for-Center-Bolt-Heads,1890.html
there are adapters that allow you to run standard , early perimeter bolt valve covers on the later center bolt heads

BTW do they make similar BIG BLOCK CHEVY VERSIONS?

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=1519&p=3482&hilit=powder+coat#p3482

/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=2005&p=5328&hilit=+valve+vacuum+PVC#p5328

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tracking-down-an-oil-leak.1430/#post-3168

valvecovers.jpg
 
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I did run across this post on NastyZ28, something to keep in mind about all valve covers with screw in baffles.

*** Just a warning if you have this type of cover ***

You need to loctite or spot weld the breathers bolts. I got lucky that I found the two screws ... my breather on the passenger side was not so lucky.

Story:
I went driving the other day with my brand new 1400 mile SBC 409 and heard an unusual notice. I came home and put on the stethoscope and head something in the passenger side valve train ... I thought that I might need to adjust the valves since this is a hydraulic roller and we broke past the 1K mark.

I was supprised, pissed and angry that I found the breather floating around the valve cover. I pulled the second cover and notice the breather was in good but one screw started to back out.

Here are the pictures:

This is the passenger side, see all of the dings on the rockers:
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oh no one more thing to worry about.

I have hammered in screw for my valve cover, do i still need to locktite or weld?(they are aluminium)
 
mathd said:
oh no one more thing to worry about.

I have hammered in screw for my valve cover, do i still need to locktite or weld?(they are aluminium)
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When you say "screw" it had threads or did it have serrations to help it bite into the aluminum when you drove it in?

Pulling the valve covers and checking would be the safe thing to do. If its been months and many miles since, and it's still tight, then I would think you are Ok.
 
I haven't waffled like this in a long time trying to make a decision about the valve covers. I could go cheap and spend $50 or I could do what I finally did and buy the Proform 2 piece valve covers shown below. I will be using Loctite on the screws holding the baffles in.

But first I had to call them and find out the difference in between the 66704 and the 141-915. I called their tech support and they didn't even know that their website showed both. They are identical, but in two different product lines. While I had Proform on the line I asked about the lower half, it didn't look to be polished like the top piece. But both are polished and you can see that in the video link below. The video shows the inside of the valve cover and how it seals the two half's.

Grumpy.......no they don't make them for the BBC, just the SBC.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CL0pLQGFSTA

There are six version of the two piece shown here:
http://www.proformparts.com/category-ex ... lve_Covers

This is the version I bought 141-915........http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-141-915/


 

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My order shows that it shipped yesterday and should arrive next Tuesday.

Sessssh you sure know how to scare a guy!!! :lol:
 
Am not the only one who hate shipping delays :)
btw the air compressor is finally arrived locally, will be at my home very soon(today) after they uncrate and test it...
 
mathd said:
Am not the only one who hate shipping delays :)
btw the air compressor is finally arrived locally, will be at my home very soon(today) after they uncrate and test it...
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure I would have to go down to the shop and help them if it was my compressor! :p
 
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