Valve Spring Preparation Prior to Assembly

Indycars

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I'm trying to decide what I can do to valve springs to improve their durability. I've been researching this for a
couple of day and there is NOT much information about this compared to other components. Below is a list of
those things most anyone could perform in their garage.

Is there anything I'm missing ? What do you do or don't do ?

Deburring the sharp edges where the spring was ground flat on the ends
Compress to coil bind for 10 cycles
Measure spring pressure at installed height
Measure spring pressure at maximum valve lift height


Below is supporting information and links to the complete articles.

Performance Valve Springs and Retainers
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article ... iners.aspx

Micropolishing the wire to a mirror-like finish, the stress risers are eliminated along with any chance they might cause the spring to fail.

Spring, Sprang, Sprung: Why Valve Springs Matter So Much
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article ... _much.aspx

And no matter what, high-performance valve springs should be pre-cycled prior to being installed

I read a great article written by Paul Titchener of Power Technology while I was researching this article. I had heard of “spring cycling,” a process in which you cycle the valve springs to full coil bind several times to break them in prior to final pressure testing, then measuring before installing them into the cylinder head. Paul’s article explained that they were able to measure almost 10 pounds of lost spring seat pressure by following this spring cycling procedure. This results in more accurate installed heights and less pressure loss when the engine is operated at its racing rpm range. You can read more in Paul’s article at http://www.power-t.com (click on “tech support”).

This cycling process is only for brand new high-performance springs and is not needed for the plain old stock or daily driver applications. I also spoke to Joe Mondello of Mondello Technical School and he says that he cycles all of his race springs and then takes it one step further, by submitting them to a cycle of stress relieving, followed by a cycle of cryogenic freezing. Joe claims to get great results in spring life and performance by this method. You can learn more about Joe’s procedure by going to http://www.mondello.com.


http://www.power-t.com/spring/Bind-Valv ... ester.html

Some engine builders feel that this is clear evidence that taking a valve spring to coil bind during the testing process damages it.

Is this true?


I believe that in some special applications where the spring is not run in a RPM or lift range where it is highly stressed that the opinion is true (more on this later).

However, for the vast majority of valve springs used in racing applications, the engine is run in a range where the spring is being pushed to the upper range of its performance limit. This means that it is being run close to the minimum allowed coil bind clearance and also that the engine RPM is high enough so that spring harmonics come into play.

When the valve spring is run in this condition, even though it has some coil bind clearance, due to the rapid motion of the valve and the resulting spring harmonics, the coils will repeatedly be going into a "local bind" condition, where the coils go through a sequence of individually coming in contact with each other.

You can confirm this by watching a video of a racing valve spring in action, such as this one from Pac Springs:

Pac Springs High Speed Valve Spring Video

Note that the spring harmonics cause the spring coils to move up and down in a wave motion and that because of this harmonic motion the spring coils come in contact with each other in what I like to call a "local bind" condition.

Thus once the spring is being used at racing RPM, the coils repeated get put in a "local bind" condition, and thus once run, the spring effectively gets taken to coil bind during operation.

I believe this is one of the significant reasons why you typically will see an immediate loss in the seat pressure of new springs the first time an engine is run at its racing RPM range.

In addition, I feel you can reduce this seat pressure loss by binding the springs prior to performing the final measurement process, as it puts the springs through the same binding process that is going to occur anyway when the springs are run at racing RPM.

Thus I feel for the typical racing valve spring, you are better off binding the spring a few times on the tester before making the final measurement, as it will then provide you with a more accurate installed height that will result in less pressure loss when the engine is then run at racing RPM.

The only case where I think binding the springs can cause more harm than good is in some applications such as "pure stock" racing, where spring is not installed close to the minimum bind range and the intake system of the engine limits the RPM that the engine can attain. In that case the spring may not endure any significant "local bind" conditions and thus the spring may not see the typical "first run" pressure loss that occurs with racing springs. In this case if obtaining the highest possible seat pressure is important and no spring shimming is allowed, it may be best not to bind the valve springs on the tester.

Paul Titchener, Power Technology
 
GREAT POST!

truth is if you buy quality SPRINGS MUCH OF THE PREP AND DURABILITY WORKS ALREADY BEEN DONE TO THE SPRINGS BEFORE THEY WERE PACKAGED

if your not using the valve springs that came in your cam kit or with your heads and your buying springs to match the application I,ve had excellent results buying springs from these guys

http://www.racingsprings.com/Store/Prod ... egoryID=13

I don,t see, momentarily compressing a valve spring just to coil bind to measure the stack height as being a big stress inducer while setting up your valve train and getting the installed height and shims correct. while its true that valve springs normally loose some minor tension during the first 15 minutes of operation thats basically un-avoidable

many guys fail to realize that one of the keys to long valve spring life is keeping them fairly cool in a constant bath of oil,flowing from the push rods and rockers, and cascading over the valve springs to keep them cool, is a good idea,and thats why restricting oil to the heads generally caused more problem than it was worth, and one reason Im a big advocate of windage trays, shrapnel screens and crank scrapers and having a 7-9 quart baffled oil pan on any performance engine
BTW you can NEVER RUN springs directly on an aluminum valve seat in the valve spring pocket on heads,valve springs surge and move at upper rpm ranges and will rapidly wear the seat area, frequently damaging the heads if the seat protectors removed, you must run steel pocket seats or shims with the thickest on up against the bottom of the spring if you use several in a stack to get the installed height correct.
springshim.jpg


spring seat pocket protectors black steel the valve spring shims are copper color


viewtopic.php?f=52&t=2661&p=9383&hilit=+shims+spring#p9383

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=64
 
grumpyvette said:
GREAT POST!
Thanks!

truth is if you buy quality SPRINGS MUCH OF THE PREP AND DURABILITY WORKS ALREADY BEEN DONE TO THE SPRINGS BEFORE THEY WERE PACKAGED

if your not using the valve springs that came in your cam kit or with your heads and your buying springs to match the application I,ve had excellent results buying springs from these guys

http://www.racingsprings.com/Store/Prod ... egoryID=13

I don,t see, momentarily compressing a valve spring just to coil bind to measure the stack height as being a big stress inducer while setting up your valve train and getting the installed height and shims correct. while its true that valve springs normally loose some minor tension during the first 15 minutes of operation thats basically un-avoidable

Seems like this would be a good way to catch a bad spring before it makes it into operation. Run it thru 10 cycles and then test spring pressures at installed and max lift. A faulty spring would tend to drop much further than the rest. Yes , No , Maybe ???

many guys fail to realize that one of the keys to long valve spring life is keeping them fairly cool in a constant bath of oil,flowing from the push rods and rockers, and cascading over the valve springs to keep them cool, is a good idea,and thats why restricting oil to the heads generally caused more problem than it was worth, and one reason Im a big advocate of windage trays, shrapnel screens and crank scrapers and having a 7-9 quart baffled oil pan on any performance engine

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=181

viewtopic.php?f=54&t=64

I'm using the springs that came with my Brodix IK200 assembled heads. They are CompCams 987 dual valve springs. The edges of the valve springs have a definitely sharp edges where they were ground flat on both ends
 

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I'm going to deburr and polish these four edges per spring (ID, OD, Top & Bottom), unless
someone can point out a good reason NOT to.

All comments are welcome !!! Hoping some of the new members would have some input, good or bad.
 

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the textured surface indicates the springs were stress relieved by surface shot peening , I really doubt youll INCREASE durability by cutting the hardened surface and inducing micro stress risers, in this case ID just suggest hardened retainers and valve spring seats, if you do polish the edges smooth make sure they are carefully cleaned before installed and not heated as if a high speed grinders , like a dremel grind stone, was used it could cause the temper to change in small areas inducing stress
revkit1.jpg

revekit.jpg

on many hydraulic roller lifter applications a REV KIT on hydraulic roller lifters adds several hundred RPM to the power band before valve control issues develop

67001.jpg

springshim.jpg

on most aluminum heads the hardened steel valve seat cups prevent the valve spring from wearing the heads surface

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=4880&p=13424&hilit=blasting+shot#p13424
 
Just a thought.....how effective can shot peening be on a sharp edge like on the valve spring in the pictures? I suggest you invest in a research laboratory and find out. When do you think you could have the results....maybe next week sometime ?
beer.gif
 
building engines is as much about knowing what needs to be improved and whats basically wasted effort as anything else, your doing an exceptional nice and well thought thru job, :mrgreen:
but Ill point out that in 40 plus years of engine builds and doing repairs Ive seen very few valve seat cups or steel valve spring retainers that showed much wear UNLESS the engine entered valve float rpm frequently or the valve load rates were to low to maintain valve control.
and I can,t ever remember a valve spring breaking the last few degrees of tapered spring wire of its base breaking off


obviously valve float and improper lash clearance can cause problems but in some cases, lash caps can reduce wear

damagedvalvetip.jpg

in most cases when you see valve tip damage like this its the result of valve float or a weak valve spring , in many cases youll need to swap to a higher spring load rate and new springs to prevent or reduce this damage
valvespring3.JPG

valvespring4.jpg


even this one broke almost a full turn from the end, because the last bit doesn,t flex much
 
grumpyvette said:
I don,t see, momentarily compressing a valve spring just to coil bind to measure the stack height as being a big
stress inducer while setting up your valve train and getting the installed height and shims correct. while its true that
valve springs normally loose some minor tension during the first 15 minutes of operation thats basically un-avoidable
When the camshaft manufacture states 120 lbs of seat pressure and 300 lbs open pressure, I assume these are the
conditions needed to keep the valve train stable up to the intended RPM. They are NOT adding anything to the numbers,
anticipating a drop after the first few minutes.

Therefore to setup valve springs correctly, you would need to cycle the springs and check pressures at the stated heights before
assembling the heads. Or is it good enough to accept that the springs are correct and ONLY need to be checked for the installed height ???
 
IVe always hedged bets a bit and selected springs that were rated about 5% higher load rates when I CAN find them to fit the application, but this is not as critical in an engine where your not running up to the edge of valve control rpm limitations, just because the cam manufacturer suggests a certain cam should easily hit 7000rpm for an example hardly mandates that you shift at 6975rpm each time you run the engine, its better to select parts that will maintain the valve train control to at least 500rpm higher than the shift point and you should be using a rocker stud girdle and ignition rpm cut off to maintain the slightly lower rpm and maintain a rigid stable valve train.
 
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