Vintage 302 chevy.

I.m certainly not suggesting that a kick ass and take names 302 can,t be built,
Ive built several in the past,
but I'm forced to point out my experience over decades that its not always the best use of the money,
and time spent if the goal, is to build the most hp per dollar spent.
keep in mind the main advantage that the 302 SBC potentially has is due to the short 3" stroke, if your going to build a short stroke screamer you need good valve train control in those upper rpm ranges,
piston speed in most SBC should rarely exceed, some rather well proven physical limitations.
to take full advantage of that high rpm potential youll want to use a solid flat tappet or ideally a solid roller lifter valve train assembly with a rocker stud girdle, and all forged rotating assembly components
youll need a 6-8 quart baffled oil pan, seriously larger port heads than the original 165cc port fuelie heads, and a well designed set of headers and exhaust system.
simply because youll be running up in the 7500-rpm-8000 rpm power band and no mater what the cam manufacturer advertising states thats NOT hydraulic lifter territory.
If the goal is max power from a 302, displacement, Ideally youll want to use 11:1-to-12.7"1 compression and that mandates either race gas or alcohol fuel.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/redline.343/#post-15729

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...od-rod-length-too-stroke-info.510/#post-12292

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/calculating-ideal-port-size.624/#post-8692

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/types-of-crankshaft-steel.204/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/rod-bolts-rpm-vs-stress.341/#post-30778

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/connecting-rod-strength-h-vs-i-beam.1168/
 
Merry christmas everyone.

Yesterday I checked the magneto fitment on my tunnel ram. It's a bit snug. I'll need to run atleast a 5/8" spacer in the rear to clear the rear float bowl.
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theres no way every manufacturer can check the clearances and fit & function of the parts they sell with every potential combo,
of aftermarket components being sold , but you would think the guys building a tunnel ram intake would test fit the more common distributors and a vertex mag on a chevy V8.
its rather common to be forced to grind a bit of clearance to the rear plenum and carb mount plates or bases.
 
theres no way every manufacturer can check the clearances and fit & function of the parts they sell with every potential combo,
of aftermarket components being sold , but you would think the guys building a tunnel ram intake would test fit the more common distributors and a vertex mag on a chevy V8.
its rather common to be forced to grind a bit of clearance to the rear plenum and carb mount plates or bases.

They seem to have set this tunnel ram up with a magneto in mind as it is radiused almost perfectly to the mag. Everything is clear except the float bowl with the carb inline. If I turn the carb sideways it clears in a certain spot but until I know where it needs to be timed I have no way of knowing if it will interfere or not.
 
Im sure youll find a way to both clear the intake , with the vertex mag installed..and get the engine properly timed
 
Any updates???

Nothing new as of lately. I've been focused on body work and trying to make a somewhat solid car before I go any further with the powerplant. Covering that in my thread over in the paint and body forum.

I have still been researching parts though. For peace of mind I think I might go with a steel rod now from oliver rather than an aluminum rod from grp like I had planned on originally. Still exploring different solid roller lifters, there are cheaper ones such as comp cams endure-x ($4-500) or maybe mid range isky redzones ($8-900) or just go with a bushed lifter ($$$) and stay away from needle bearings all together. Endure-x looks nice from a money stand point and they're rebuildable and overall not that expensive to replace either and at one time they were the go to I'm sure before bigger and better rollers came out. There's horror stories for all I guess, but as bigger and better come out you know the stuff that worked just fine last year is always weak and inferior this year. My only concern would be the ability of the needle bearings to hold together at higher rpms with my spring pressures (Crane 96886-16).

Anyways that's just some of the stuff I've been looking at. Another reason I haven't went much further with this build is the $$$. I started a new job at the beginning of the year and have to work my way back up to a reasonable wage before I can get loose with cash again. Doesn't cost anything but a few dollars in electricity running a compressor and welder while doing the body work, plus I have most of the tools and materials to do the job. I do have a pretty nice schedule at the new job though, 7 on 7 off so I can buckle down and get some work done in the shop as long as I'm not summoned to the house.
 
Aluminum rods are great - right up the point that they snap. And you never know when that will be.
They get work hardened. Steel rod is a better choice. If you must have lightweight, there is always titanium - but $$$$$.
My 302 runs a solid flat tappet camshaft and revs to 8000 rpm easily. USED beehive springs, new stud girdles, new roller rockers.

Have you ever considered using used NASCAR parts? You can find some good stuff here: https://www.ebay.com/str/a1performancewarehouse

Nice work schedule. :D
 
Titaniums light but it galls to easily. I chose to go with tool steel for retainers as it is just a few grams heavier than titanium and a lot lighter than normal steel retainers. As far as rods go I think the oliver rod is just as light if not lighter than the aluminum rod as it sticks to a traditional I beam design and is rated pretty well. Titanium rods and valves would be over kill for this engine plus just to dang expensive and my luck I'd probably ding one which is no good for titanium.

That link looks like its got some good stuff in there. Fella would have to scan it regularly to find something usable. I don't thing a lot of sbc sj stuff would end up in there could be wrong though.
 
Could the carbs be turned 90 degrees to give you the clearance you need?
Yes and no. The mag still hits the throttle shaft. Which doesnt matter now as it turns out the mag I have is for a big block and I would need to collar it up almost 3/4 of an inch to line up on the cam and thats not going to work for me. I'm looking at buying another mag and probably one without a mechanical tach drive which also adds to the total height.
 
btw I got asked how I apply the 50%/50%
mix of MARVEL MYSTERY OIL AND CRANE MOLY ASSEMBLY LUBE TO BEARINGS
I generally spray crank journals and bearing surfaces with moly spray first , then paint on the mix linked below.
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Preference on assembly lube?

50% marvel mystery oil
marvel.jpg

and 50% crane moly lubes
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what Ive used for decades
but this works

permassembly.jpg

I have used J&B WELD EPOXY on a large magnet
https://www.zoro.com/value-brand-ring-magnet-98-lb-pull-10e797/i/G4187224/


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on the base of an aluminum 1/2 cup measuring cup I purchased at a yard sale for 25 cents to mix up the mixture, the magnet allows me to stick the cup to the block oil pan rail or engine stand where its handy too get at, and I simply brush on the mix with a 1" paint brush, with synthetic bristles that won,t shed
main_bearing_lube_2.jpg

OH!
slide it off the block don,t try to just pull it off , its going to be much less messy that way trust me!
when your done , wipe it clean and stick it inside the lid of your tool box , after placing it in a ziploc bag to prevent it from picking up trash while in storage



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shopping
Aluminum in not magnetic
 
the small pan with the assembly lubes got the magnet epoxied to the base,
so it sticks to the steel engine stand or a cast iron block thus you can use the brush without it getting knocked off.
 
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