Vinyl Dying No Hocus Pocus, Just The Facts!

Randy_W

reliable source of info
I've been dying vinyl for a long time and thought I would share my system with you. First and foremost, be patient, dont rush and dont skip steps!! Try to pick a relatively dry day, humidity will cause most dyes to blush (develop a white hazy appearance). Try to work in temps between 60 and 80 degrees, if possible. Use good quality products There are many custom mix products but for those that want to use the rattle can method, Duplicolor will work fine and SEM has more solids so it covers better.
1. Clean everything with detergent and water and dry thoroughly.
2. Sand everything lightly with 400-600 grit sandpaper.
3. Wash everything down with a clean paper towel and lacquer thinner and allow to air dry and wipe with lint free towel or tack rag.
4. Apply 0ne very light coat and allow drying time of 5-10 minutes.
5. Follow with 3-4 light coats, allowing drying between coats, until good coverage is achieved. Do not use heavy wet coats!
6. Follow with 2-4 light coats of clear, allowing drying as above, use the gloss that is appropriate for the job (flat, semi, or gloss).
This system will work on seats, dashes, metal, plastic, vinyl, Ive used it on steering wheels and it does a great job! The keys are good product, patience and common sense.
This method takes a little time but is well worth it in look and durability. I've developed this system over the last 30+ years in my shop and it works very well.
 
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Do your research and try hard to talk with several local upholstery shops, ideally youll get to talk to several different old experienced geezer's with 30 plus years of experience.
you would also be better informed if you find the local auto interior supply source that those auto body and upholstery shops use and talk to the guys, that are supplying the dyes and materials, as they will know from experience that some products have a far better reputation for ease of use and durability, and some dyes, paints and adhesives, eventually earn a reputation for good long term durability and staying color fast while others are rather well known for flaking,pealing or separating if not applied correctly or subjected to even minimal physical wear or adverse environmental conditions.
a couple days spent asking questions, taking notes and verifying suggestions from several sources VS diving into a project rather un-informed can save you a great deal of time and cash in the long run.
don,t forget to ask about the really stupid simple stuff most guys screw up all the time, like how the component fasteners are used,removed and refastened,any tips on removal or replacement, and if certain unique tools should be used, if the fasteners, clips, or grommets are a one time use then replace type, and ask where to buy replacement screws, plastic clips and assorted hardware that your certain to damage or loose or find defective or missing at times!

when re-dyeing things like door and dash panels remove them from the car, and work on them only after a careful detailing and cleaning, even the natural oils present in your skin can cause annoying blemishes in re-colored plastics surfaces or cloth dyes.
frequently changing plastic mechanics gloves, working in a clean well lighted dry and dust free area , ideally up on a work bench well off the floor and on a large frequently replaced plastic sheeting cover on the bench reduces problems.
as an example , I know that lots of the earlier dodge/Plymouth, and Chevy and Pontiac, dash plastic, rapidly becomes brittle with prolonged direct sun-light exposure.
Ive purchased a couple less expensive interior replacement panels for my corvette that actually shriveled up like a over cooked potato chip in 400F oil after a few months in direct sun light exposure.
your not saving a dime if the component costs a bit less up front, but needs to be replaced after a couple months.
if you use the correct high quality dyes on material in good condition it will last for decades,
with minimal change in color or intensity if its not in direct sun light,
and of course its not subjected to varying moisture levels of any consequence.
many guys don,t realize theres a VAST difference in both upholstery dye quality, and several application processes.
correctly applying auto upholstery dyes, is both an art and a skill, and just like on auto body paint,
surface prep and the quality of the interior fabrics,and plastics and vinyl even on OEM components also varies,
some original factory component material is far inferior to whats currently available but the reverse is also true,
Ive seen 50 year old original components that are much better made than similar currently marketed replacement parts.
and previous repair work has a huge effect on the finished results

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I've sprayed some interior parts with the SEM Black followed by the SEM clear top coat that puts off the super intense fumes and have had REALLY great results. My only complaint has been getting some splatter spray as the cans start to get empty and having the cams run out of pressure before all the liquid has actually been sprayed out of the cam.


-I bought a new ACC Carpet set for my 79 Corvette but the one thing it doesn't come with is a tiny square of carpeting that's on the doors' storage pouch. My carpeting is a bit faded there. I've never used the vinyl dye on carpeting before but I've heard of people using it and being really happy with it.

Anyone have any recommendations for vinyl spraying carpeting? (I'd rather try the Vinyl spray and ONLY if I don't like the result try to deal with replacing that small section of door carpeting....)


Adam
 
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