watching grumpy work can be educational

B

bob

Guest
my neighbors wife has a Chevy aveo 4 cylinder that started running badly, (missing) she brought it down to a local mechanic that checked it out and wanted over $500 to replace what he diagnosed as a bad fuel injector and do a tune-up.
well she thought was was a bit high and she asked me for help...I know nothing about Chevy aveos
ls-sedan-front-side.jpg

so I brought it over to grumpy, he asked several questions then took a brief test drive, the prior mechanic had shown her that one spark plug was not firing and was soaked with fuel, he stated that indicated a bad injector that was flooding the cylinder with fuel.
grumpy pulled and inspected the plugs ,and confirmed a wet fuel soaked plug, but that all the plugs looked to be in reasonable condition, but he also got out a multi-meter and found all the injectors
aveoinjector.jpg
read about the same resistance and he got out a NOID LIGHT
multimeter.jpg

noidlite.jpg


and found the injector pulse was ok,he did a compression check and the cylinders all read about 130psi, so he pulled each plug wire and measured each for resistance, they were all similar so after, gaping and replacing them and he had me fire up the engine and pulled each plug wire off the coil pack, and noticed two cylinders had bright blue spark, one had a dull red spark and one has a bright yellow spark as you let them arc to the wire holding it near the coil, the multi meter showed a significant difference in resistance OHM,(I forgot what the reading was) but grumpy suggested we buy a new coil pack (NAPA charged $132) OUTRAGEOUS in my opinion, I found them listed later for $30-$49
and throw a can of injector cleaner and a can of gas dry in the tank to help clean the fuel system.
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/IgnitionCoil/C ... ontent=ECI
aveocoil.jpg


anyway, the new coil pack and plugs made a huge improvement and the injector had zero to do with the problem as it now runs super smooth, and like new
 
glad you enjoyed watching and learned a few things along the way, thanks for posting!


(BTW) for those of you that don,t know, BOB,s a neighbor of mine that comes over to B.S. about cars occasionally and frequently uses my computer to post , or his new ipad like device (IM not truly computer literate, so I don,t know what that 6"x 8" thing is he uses)

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=6134
 
I recently ask grumpy to see why my battery charger was repairable as it was not charging the battery in my car which remained dead and the connections seemed to be heating up and sparking a bit more when connected to the battery, I figured the charger was shorted or electrically fried internally.
Grumpy came over and got out a multi meter and determined the charger was producing the 14.8 volts it should be and that it was the battery that was shorted internally and had 5 volts not the charger.....I wonder how many guys have thrown a perfectly good battery charger in the trash under similar conditions only to find out later that it was not the charger but the battery that had failed/
its surprising how , approaching the problem without assuming you already know the answer,and using a multi meter seems to locate and isolate many problems a good deal faster than looking at symptoms and guessing at the cause.
 
Sounds like his shop should be called.......


The Second Best Damn Garage in Town :!:


 
this was a case of learning from and remembering ,or simply learning from my own previous mistakes.
over the years I've learned that if your dealing with electrical issues you NEED to know what the voltage and resistance (OHMS) are before assuming some parts bad, Ive seen guys replace (DEFECTIVE) battery's and ALTERNATORS, only . later to find out that the PROBLEM is frequently bad battery connections that cost 5% of what they spent to replace good components

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