KEN said:Guys, I did something VERY stupid -- 3 years ago I installed a new blower motor in a car that wasn't complete and WITHOUT backing off the value springs, I covered the car in plastic where it has been sitting untouched. To make matters worse, the motor hasn't been rotated. Due to a mother with cancer and the changing of a job, life got away from me. I'm now trying to size-up the damage and move forward with the project.
It's a 671 blower motor with a mild Hydraulic Roller -- intake lift around 510. I'm going to scope the cylinders to see if there is any rust on the walls (doubtful since they were covered with oil and the garage has decent climate control) and rotate the motor by hand. The motor was never started, so all of the assembly lube is still covering internal parts with 6 QTs of oil that will be drained before rotating.
Now my questions:
1) Considering it's a mild cam, do you think it's necessary to replace the valve springs that have never been used?
2) Do you think that the hydraulic lifters will be OK? Keep in mind that the valves were never backed-off during the 3 year period. A sales rep at Comp thought they would be OK -- I'm looking for additional opinions. If not mistaken, I think he said that the value springs too, should be OK with a mild cam.
Thank for the help!
Ken
Project56-X
Ken
Link to pics.
you have two rather obvious choices ,if your concerned, with the potential of their being damage, to the engine,
personally I think that if the environment, the car was stored in was clean and dry,
there not a great deal of chance significant damage was done and a oil change is likely all thats required.
(1) you can either disassemble inspect and test the valves springs for consistent tension,
and check all the components for wear and correct clearances and lack of corrosion.
then reassemble the engine and be fairly sure its in great condition,
or
(2) you can change the oil and oil filter and fuel and fuel filter,
spin the engine without the ignition on until you see consistent oil pressure and oil flow from the rockers,
and try starting and running the engine in its current condition.
yes the additives in the the quart of MMO you can add to your crank case oil, do a good job of breaking up and holding in suspension oil sludge and transporting it to the oil filter
the first choice is the safest but. I will point out Ive started and run dozens of cars that sat, for several years with only a battery and oil change and few have had issues related to valve train failures and new gaskets sealants and the time and effort required are likely to be more than required here!
yes its likely the valve springs that were compressed will have lost some minor tension, but I doubt the amounts critical.
any time you encounter problems like the oil filter gasket blowing out on an engine that has sat un-started for more than a few months an oil and oil filter change, and taking the time to drain the oil through a fine filter to visually check for water and contaminants in the oil drained is a very good idea,
engines that site un fired up collect condensation, condensation results in internal rust and that can damage or seize an engine if left very long
almost any auto paint store and most hardware stores sell these disposable throw away paint strainer filters , that cost about 20-35 cents each, or a bit less in bulk packs, honestly I don,t see why most guys don,t invest the dollar it takes for a magnet and a couple filters, blowing the gasket as you found out indicates the pressure bypass is not functioning properly so the oil pump needs to be disassembled and repaired or replaced
read this linked info
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...years-now-i-want-to-sell-it.13790/#post-70731
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66776/overview/
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