theres always been a constant debate on what a good ELK rifle caliber is,
ID simply point out that almost any center-fire rifle will work
when everything goes right,
but remember almost any center-fire rifle from 25-45 caliber will work,
if the guy holding it has the experience and skill to use it to its full potential,
and understands its limitations.
you are certainly not going too need a 458 lott or 458 win to hunt elk, but both rifles hand-loaded
to hot 45/70 power levels make excellent thick timber elk rifles,
where range under 200 yards are the rule and a 400 grain bullet at perhaps 1800 fps-2200 fps make a very effective elk hunting rifle
Id strongly suggest you take a practical view based on decades of experience,
and select a cartridge at least as powerful as a 270 win, Ive never found a thing to need improvement using a 340 WBY mag with 250 -270 grain hornady bullets, with a 4x-12x scope
you might want a 13"- 27" tall adjustable height, harris swivel bi-pod, to make accurate sitting and prone shots easyy if you want to maximize long range potential.
my 375 H&H carbine with a 2x7x leopold scope gets the nod if I want to stalk dark timber in narrow canyons far from road access.
but even a 308 win or 270 win works fine its not power its proper shot placement and using what YOU have 100% confidence in that matters
I think we all find we have favorite rifle action types , personally I like and trust single shot browning falling block rifles like the browning 78 ,in 300 wby,
and the bolt action weatherby mark V ,in 340 wby, and the 375 H&H, bolt action, for most of my hunting,
(you might feel thats excessive, I know I'm in a minority)
I could not pick or would want to even suggest what YOU might prefer,
some guys like blondes some guys prefer brunettes... find what you like best, and what you have fun with, and youll never be wrong.
I've purchased, and used a great many rifle calibers from 6 mm rem to 458 LOTT and a 58 and 62 caliber muzzle loader's
many guys seem to be adversely effected by any significant recoil and many prefer lighter weight rifles, thats fine,
I find lots of the guys I hunt with preferred pump and lever actions
personally I prefer the .338-.45 calibers, they tend to get obviously noticeable results
you can't ignore physics a larger and heavier projectile tends to hit harder,
but its a judgement call on how hard you want to hit the target or what trajectory and recoil limitations your willing to deal with
I've seen several elk killed with a 257 roberts and a couple killed with a 45/70, , most guys seem to find a 308 win, 30/06 or 270 win works well.
power is obviously not as critical as shot placement
if you can accurately use a 300 mag-375 mag the extra power has marginal advantages in a few applications but its rarely if ever going make or break a hunts success.
from what Ive seen having confidence in your choice of rifle and being very familiar with its quirks and characteristics and limitations is the key to success not the action type or caliber or case head stamp.
several of the guys I hunt elk with think the 7600 35 whelen, is a top choice,
Ive used one and I don,t see a damn thing thats in need of improvement if you hunt the ticker timber areas.
http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/default.asp?Caliber=35 Whelen&Weight=All&type=Rifle&Source=
btw the three most popular rifles in our hunt club for elk are the
remingtom 7600 in caliber 35 whelen, or 30/06
the browning BLR in 358 win 308 win,or 450 marlin
and the ruger #1 in 338 win 30/06, or 300 mag
remember the PROJECTILE does all the work, without a good design in any caliber your screwed.
and youll generally want a slow expanding bullet with at least a .260 sectional density and a thick jacket,
for its intended velocity range to maximize penetration.
personally I want exit wounds in a strait line from entrance impact points, for blood trails a blind guy could follow
and decent expansion characteristics, for rapid kills this requires bullet mass to achieve on an ELK.
Ive used a 340 wby and 375 H&H on most ELK HUNTS
https://www.hornady.com/bullets/rifle/#!/
If you have a
308 win, 30/06 ,7mm mag, youll be fine with a good quality 160-175 grain bullet.
I will point out that in almost 50 years of hunting the number of elk Ive even seen past 300 yards is minimal,
Id bet the average distance all the elk taken by the members of our club over that last 45 years was well under 150 yards.
a 308 win or 270 win,
is my idea of a minimal power level,
with a 150 grain bullet as a minimum.
but what ever you select you'll need to practice with your choice enough to be confident you can accurately place shots from field positions out to at least 350 yards
(most elk are shot at shorter ranges,)
a properly loaded 270 win or 30/06 would never be a really bad choice,
in most areas.
that being stated things rarely go perfectly,
angles, ranges time frames, your ability to shoot well from field positions,
and other conditions rarely allow you to make the type of shots you see being made in those videos we all see.
within reasonable limits your rifle choice is less important than your physical condition,
your ability to cover a lot of terrain on foot,
your skill at using topo maps and binoculars,and your persistence,
if you hunt every available hour rather than sitting in camp,
and your ability to hit a target with your rifle of choice quickly and accurately ,
from a rapidly acquired field position.
I've used a 338 win and a 340 wby, and even a 358 win,with 250 grain bullets,
375 H&H and 35 whelen and 45/70 for decades with excellent results.
I,ve used several of the 300 mag rifles,
any of the rifle calibers above work fine if a reasonably heavy for caliber projectile is selected,
if the games anatomy is well understood, and rifle is used correctly.
(but consider I generally hunt Elk in thick timber in steep canyon country.)
you'll seldom go wrong selecting a fairly heavy for caliber bullet,
with a thick jacket that allows deep penetration.
(obviously shot placement,
and a good knowledge of the games anatomy,
and lots of field practice is critical)
while it might be amusing to discuss the merits of your personal favorite rifle and caliber,
it would be hard to find a reasonably popular center-fire 25-45 caliber rifle,
that has at least 2000 ft lbs of muzzle energy and at least 110 grains of bullet mass,
that won,t work well in experienced hands.
years ago I saw a game department survey made where they asked hundreds of hunters at a western BLM check point, to look out at 5 different colored flags placed at random but carefully measured distances and write down what each person estimated the distance too be from the check point, they were handed a pen and a survey card, they were told NONE of the colored flags were at an even 100 yard multiple but that was the only info , each flag was a different, color, placed in a
different direction and at a different distance.
the survey taker pointed out each colored flag and asked them to write down their estimated range!
they tabulated the actual hunters field estimates being made on the spot, vs the carefully measure actual distances.
.
.
the results were about what Id have expected..after decades of listening to guys claim they killed deer & elk at 400 and 500 and 600 yards.......
the vast majority were very VERY bad at estimating distances correctly past about 150 yards...some estimates that were over 70% wrong were not uncommon
decent quality optics are mandatory
https://www.midsouthshooterssupply....x42mm-30mm-tube-nikoplex-reticle-matte-finish
Ive been looking for, and really wanted, a stainless/laminated ruger #1 in 458 lott at a decent price for about 10 years, ever since one of my buddies bought one at a local gun show for $900, he loves his, I reload for him, and no he refuses to sell his.
every time I have the cash I either can't locate one, or theres a family crisis that used all the saved cash
given a choice that would be my next rifle
I've owned both the Ruger #1 and browning 78 single shots
both are very high quality and potentially very accurate rifles.
I've had marginally better groups with the rugers, I've owned,
but both will produce 1" hundred-yard groups with tailored ammo
I personally like the looks of the brownings a bit better.
youll do great with either choice!
heres a few pictures off the net, showing rifles very similar to those I own
my brownings been rechambered in 300 wby
the ruger rechambered in 257 wby
each of our personal experiences accumulates over time,
and each while probably significant different has a profound effect on what we personally see as the ideal equipment list , and colors our choices.
I prefer to hunt out of a back pack, think mountain man,
tactics with very limited minimal but better more modern equipment choices
most of my fellow elk hunters in my group think I'm at least a marginal masochist, because I will almost always, leave camp and am perfectly comfortable under conditions many feel are not tolerable.
personally I want to cover ground , but leave no trace I was there, I select a light flexible but totally durable back pack, minimal equipment,
a fairly powerful rifle like a 375 H&H or 340 WBY a 22lr revolver,a kukri, and a -10F rated sleeping bag , and a parka and poncho, a couple 2 ltr bottle canteens a few tools, mres, and think little of spending 3-4 days away from camp.
if your not afraid of getting lost,, not all that concerned with having more than one meal a day, not worried about spending nights sleeping sitting against , or laying under, a large over hanging conifer, tree,
even if the temps drop and your waking up under a foot of fresh snow, miles from your truck, I can totally enjoy the hunt..
too many guys are convinced they must be back in camp at dark, too many guys in my opinion think they must have a hot meal and a camp fire.
I cover a good deal of carefully pre-selected, terrain, but I don,t travel fast, Im just persistent, I really don,t care where I am at dawn or dusk, I just want to find a decent elk,
most of the guys in our club want to sit around a camp fire and drink beer at night back at the truck.
I've never been all that concerned with huge antlers but yeah Id prefer to shoot something impressive just like most of you.
this style of hunt is obviously not that popular as only a few of they guys Ive hunted with wanted to repeat the hunts even when I'm successful most years, AT least 50% of the trips in at least getting a decent mule deer or elk.
I read the post above and had to ask... why the 375 H&H?]
The simple answer, I carry and use what I'm 100% sure works,and what I personally feel is the best choice, for me.
I would Not be overly concerned with the choice in rifles or caliber,
my late hunting partner used nothing but a 358 BLR loaded with 250 grain speer bullets
and my new hunting partner,is absolutely convinced that anything less than a 270 win loaded with 150 grain boat tail bullets will bounce off anything with fur.
the truth is that anything Ive seen used from a 257 roberts to a 458 win, works,
if you can place your shots accurately. (that does not mean a larger caliber won,t hit harder ,but dead, is dead and a 257 roberts 100 grain bullet placed in the heart/lungs is leathal)
your issue is NOT power its confidence in your rifle and Your ability to use it!
personally I've come to like the 340 WBY and 375 H&H, everything I've ever shot, with either rifle drops fairly close to the point of bullet impact,
but I can say the same for Rons 358 win and Bills 270 win
the main issue you face is finding a viable legal elk thats well inside your comfortable rifle range and placing your shot well,
thus good clear binoculars, the ability to read and accurately interpret topo maps, and good boots and the ability to stay warm & dry and in the field from before dawn to after dark,
to maximize,,your chances of being in the right place at the correct time is more critical.
Id bet theres thousands of Elk that are still wondering colorado each year simply because, many guys hunt hard the first two too three days, get frustrated & exhausted,
and spend the rest of the week or so sitting around camp or driving around looking for elk out of the trucks window rather than,
checking out the small side canyons, that might require a hour or so walking to gain access.
PERSISTENCE MATTERS, YOUR PHYSICAL CONDITION, and YOUR ABILITY TO SHOOT ACCURATELY MATTERS
BEING in the correct location at the correct time is not 100% due to luck! you can swing the odds in your favor,
simply by being in a reasonably likely location during the vast majority of the season rather than cooking hod dogs and drinking beer in camp.
theres several guys in my elk hunting club that really prefer to carry a browning BLR, my late hunting partner, RON, preferred a BLR in 358 win loaded with a 250 grain speer over 44 grains of IMR 4064 and a fed 215 primer
consistent 1"-1.2" bench rested 100 yard 3 shot groups were common.
sighted in at 3.5" high at 100 yards its almost dead on at 200 yards and about 10"-12" low at 300 yards, he used that load for over 3 decades and was very successful, most elk were 1 shot kills.
I don,t think either guy ever had in the last 35-40 years a single shot taken exceeding 200 yards
https://www.speer-ammo.com/products/bullets/rifle-bullets/hot-cor-rifle-bullet/2453
http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/d...;type=rifle&Order=Powder&Source=
one other guy FRANK, prefers the 308 win BLR loaded with a speer 200 grain bullet over 45 grains of WW760 was his preferred load.
https://www.speer-ammo.com/products/bullets/rifle-bullets/hot-cor-rifle-bullet/2211
http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/d...;type=rifle&Order=Powder&Source=
or sako or ruger carbine
https://www.fieldandstream.com/12-best-rifle-cartridges-for-elk-hunting
example
Theres a group that feels the 243 win, 6 mm rem,-257 Roberts , 25/06 ,257 wby,up to about the 270 win, are perfectly acceptable Elk rifles,and they can be under ideal conditions.
these lighter and smaller caliber rifles are deadly in skilled and experienced hand's and when used with the correct quality bullets fully up to the job of killing elk,
if the shooter realizes the limitations hes dealing with, and when things go well.
and theres the group that thinks you'll be far better off with a 378/338 mag 375 H&H-416 Remington,404 , 458 win ETC,
these calibers certainly develop the power and penetration required if the correct bullet is selected ,
but the recoil levels, and in a few cases the limited range, due too lower velocity and massive bullet weight, can make them a rifle & caliber choice best left to experienced hunters and best used in thicker timber where ranges will tend to be under 250 yards.
but theres few guys that really debate the merits or lack of same of the 7mm and 300 magnums, 325 win 300wby-8mm rem,338 win 340 wby, etc.
as those calibers having the necessary clout and range, too be used effectively on ELK, along with the flat trajectory with the better ammo.
from what I've seen during several dozen elk hunts in Colorado and Wyoming, you can get the job done with about any accurate center fire rifle provided you can shoot accurately and know your rifles trajectory and use some common sense, in taking reasonable shots.
a 270 win or 30/06 will certainly get the job done in skilled hands, but a bit more bullet weight and diameter seems to help you impress elk with your rifles lethality.
http://www.petersenshunting.com/gea...y-mag-vs-375-hh-whats-the-best-elk-cartridge/
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1320632047/nikon-prostaff-7-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-4-16x50mm-matte
especially when we look at the ballistics, and pragmatically review the track record of those calibers in actual field use, keep in mind youll rarely get a second shot if you miss the first and youll probably only see one or two legal elk on any hunt, you'll be lucky to have the time to make a decent first shot, so you better learn to make accurate shots very quickly from field positions.(use of a rifle and bullet that can do considerable damage and deep penetration ups your odds in your favor, but make that first shot really count, and youll rarely need a second shot
so the debate, seems to really center around the recoil and noise levels, and cost of the rifle and ammo,and weight of the rifle your willing to accept or pay for, or the weight you'll carry,etc. and what someone is willing to accept , in recoil, rifle weight and cost to get the job done effectively.
we are all forced too make compromises at some point.
few guys want to carry a 9-10 lb rifle, or pay more than about $700-$1500 for a rifle,few guys want the rifle scope to give them eyebrow scars, if the don,t constantly keep the recoil levels in mind before firing,but
most guys want a rifle that at least in theory reaches out to 350-500yards , even thought most ELK are shot at under 350 yards and most guys in my experience don,t want to shoot a harder recoiling caliber from the sitting ,kneeling or prone position, making the real hard kickers, not really an option, as a truly useful rifle under all conditions in the field.
If I were to suggest a good compromise a 35 whelen loaded with a 225-250 grain bullet is a decent choice and the 338 win with similar bullet weights,is certainly right up there near the top choice.
your choice always involves some compromises.
so what are the factors you look for, what are YOU willing to give up and what factors are mandatory in your ELK rifle choice and WHY?
if your looking for a decent high quality single shot falling block ruger #1 in stainless ID suggest you find and buy one very soon, as it appears ruger is no longer making them
2000
NO. 1 Stainless Standard Rifle: 26" Med ($820)
.25-06, 7mm Rem Mag, 7mm STW, .300 Wby Mag @ 8 lbs. Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Varminter: 24" Hvy ($820)
.22-250 @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-V-BBZ
2001
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($845)
.243, .25-06, 7mm Rem Mag, 7mm STW, .30-06, .300 Wby Mag @ 8 lbs Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Varminter: 24" Hvy ($845)
.22-250 @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-V-BBZ
2002
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($885)
.243 Win, .25-06, 7mm Rem Mag, 7mm STW, .308 Win, .30-06, .300 Win Mag @ 8 lbs
Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Varminter: 24" Hvy ($885)
.22-250 @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-V-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Tropical: 24" Hvy ($885)
.375 H&H Mag, .416 Rigby @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-H-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Sporter: 22" Med ($885)
.45-70 Gov @ 7¼ lbs Catalog No. K1-S-BBZ
2003
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($910)
.243, .25-06, .270, 7mm Rem. Mag, 7mm STW, .308, .30-06, .300 Win Mag @ 8 lbs
Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Varminter: 24" Hvy ($910)
.22-250 @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-V-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Tropical: 24" Hvy ($910)
.375 H&H Mag, .405 Win, .416 Rigby @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-H-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Sporter: 22" Med ($910)
.45-70 Gov @ 7¼ lbs Catalog No. K1-S-BBZ
2004
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($950)
.243, .25-06, .270, 7mm Rem Mag, 7mm STW, .308, .30-06, .300 Win Mag @ 8 lbs
Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Varminter: 26"&24" Hvy ($950)
.204 Ruger (26"), .22-250 (24") @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-V-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Tropical: 24" Hvy ($950)
.375 H&H Mag, .405 Win, .416 Rigby, .458 Lott @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-H-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Sporter: 22" Med ($950)
.45-70 Gov @ 7¼ lbs Catalog No. K1-S-BBZ
2005
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($998)
.243, .25-06, .270, 7mm Rem Mag, .308, .30-06, .300 Win Mag @ 8 lbs
Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Varminter: 26"&24" Hvy ($998)
.204 Ruger (26"), .22-250 (24") @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-V-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Tropical: 24" Hvy ($998)
.375 H&H Mag, .405 Win, .416 Rigby, .458 Lott @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-H-BBZ
(Ruger told me in 2012 that no more than 250 of the .405 were made in total for all the years.)
NO. 1 Stainless Sporter: 22" Med ($998)
.45-70 Gov @ 7¼ lbs Catalog No. K1-S-BBZ
2006
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($1,000)
.243, .25-06, .270, 7mm Rem Mag, .308, .30-06, .300 Win Mag @ 8 lbs
Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Varminter: 26"&24" Hvy($1,032)
.204 Ruger (26"), .22-250 (24") @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-V-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Tropical: 24" Hvy ($1,032)
.375 H&H Mag, .405 Win, .416 Rigby, .458 Lott @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-H-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Sporter: 22" Med ($1,032)
.45-70 Gov @ 7¼ lbs Catalog No. K1-S-BBZ
2007
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($1,065)
.243, .25-06, .270, 7mm Rem Mag, .30-06, .300 Win Mag @ 8½ lbs
Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Varminter: 26"&24" Hvy ($1,065)
.204 Ruger (26"), .22-250 (24") @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-V-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Tropical: 24" Hvy ($1,065)
.416 Rigby, .458 Lott @ 8½ lbs Catalog No. K1-H-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Sporter: 22" Med ($1,065)
.45-70 Gov @ 7¼ lbs Catalog No. K1-S-BBZ
2008
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($1,130)
.243, .25-06, .270, 7mm Rem Mag, .30-06, .300 Win Mag @ 8 ¼ - 8½ lbs
Models: 1348, 1394, 11305, 1395, 1397, 1396. Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Varminter: 26"&24" Hvy ($1,130)
.204 Ruger (26"), .22-250 (24") @ 9 lbs. Model: 11311, 1392. Catalog No. K1-V-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Tropical: 24" Hvy ($1,130)
.375 H&H, .458 Lott @ 8½ - 9½ lbs. Models: 1398, 11302 Catalog No. K1-H-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Sporter: 22" Med ($1,130)
.45-70 Gov. @ 7¼ lbs Model: 1399 Catalog No. K1-S-BBZ
2009
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($1,186)
.243, .25-06, .270, 7mm Rem Mag, .30-06, .300 Win Mag @ 8 ¼ - 8½ lbs
Models: 1348, 1394, 11305, 1395, 1397, 1396 Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Sporter: 22" Med ($1,186)
.375 Ruger, .45-70 Gov @ 7¼ lbs Models: 11331, 1399 Catalog No. K1-S-BBZ
2010
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($1,222)
.270, .300 Win Mag @ 8 ¼ - 8 ½ lbs
Models: 11305, 1396 Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
No more are catalog listed from 2010 on...
ruger makes a darn accurate single shot in 270, 30/06, 338 win,35 whelen, 458 win, and 45/70 that all have excellent reputations in my elk camp.
BROWNING BLR lever actions in 358 win, 308 win and 450 marlin have all been used very successfully,
as have the remington 7600 slide action in both 30/06 and 35 whelen, and theres several guys using 338 win, and 375 H&H bolt actions
now personally I've found the 30/06-to-35 whelen to be about as low in the power band as IM truly comfortable hunting ELK with as I have total confidence in that caliber range with 180 grain-250 grain bullets, and the combos ability to kill ELK, Ive used a 30/06 with 100% success, its 100& lethal, theres zero doubt there, but it does not seem to get an elks attention, on bullet impact nearly as well as the 250 grain 35 whelen has on the several occasions when ,I used the 35 whelen vs the 30/06 , Ive used both so I can compare, and almost all my shots were rather similar mid chest lung shots., usually from under 200 yards. and I feel that the 300-mags, 340 wby and 375 H&H to be about the max practical recoil levels, and rifle weight I'M willing to put up with.
the 270 win loaded with a 150 grain speer over 54 grains of IMR 4831 with a fed 215 primer
or
the 30/06 loaded with a 200 grain speer over 49 grains of ww760 with a fed 215 primer
will kill any ELK effectively, keep in mind your whole hunts success may depend on your ability to make one well placed shot and your knowledge of elk anatomy and your field accuracy
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-a-good-all-around-elk-mule-deer-rifle.12948/
http://www.shootingtimes.com/ammo/ammunition_st_exforelk_200908/
http://www.chuckhawks.com/compared_elk_rifles_field.htm
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ange-calibers-for-elk-are-not-mandatory.1275/
but my favorite calibers are the 338 win
250 grain hornady over 60 grains of ww760 with a fed 215 primer
and
35 whelen, loaded with a 250 speer over 54 grains of IMR 4895 with a fed 215 primer
or
a 375 H&H
300 grain hornady over 77 grains of ww760 with a fed 215 primer
any of the five work fine PROVIDED you place your shots well, the three heavier calibers seem to get the job done a bit faster but a single hit in the right place with any of those results in a dead ELK
When I started hunting I carried a 760 rem in 30/06, on the advice of several experienced mentors, it worked great, but I was under the impression, that I needed a magnum caliber as the first couple elk I shot failed to instantly fall over when hit,
I upgraded to and I have mostly carried a 340 wby mark V or a sako 375 H&H carbine,
these did not kill any better but you darn sure got a more noticeable reaction when you hit game! (they became my trusted companions for decades.)
I have had a remington 7600 in 35 whelen as a shared hunting camp back-up rifle available on many of the trips to hunt elk, and its saved the hunt for several guys over the years when for various reasons their rifle stopped functioning.
the more experience I got the less I worried about the rifle being used, simply because Ive seen everything from a 257 robert's BLR to a 458 win ruger single shot, used successfully, to kill elk.
I personally trust, and prefer to carry the .338-.375 caliber rifles , but Ive seen that anything from .257 to .458 works if the guy carrying its knows how to use what he has in his hands.
I've just seen too many elk and big mule deer killed very dead with a 257 roberts, 6.5mm swedish mauser , or 308 win, to think you need a magnum, or guys using a
444 marlin, 45/70 or 458 win to think you need the flattest trajectory available
Ive used either a 35 whelen, 375 H&H, and 340wby on easily 75%-80% or more of MY ELK hunting trips Ive used a 340 wby and 375 H&H on most ELK HUNTS
. but thats only MY choice , whats YOURS??
a great deal of selecting the best personally acceptable and dependable elk rifle, will be related ,
to what you personally have confidence in using.
I've seen more guys use a 30/06 or 35 whelen than most other calibers, but I've seen enough other cartridges used to ,
conclude its not, so much the cartridge you selected,as ,
its the skill, persistence and ability of the guy holding the rifle thats the true significant factor.
the fact is simply that most center-fire rifles are more than lethal if the shots well placed,
the key or problem is finding a legal elk and getting into effective range to place the lethal shot.
yes theres certainly advantages in selecting a rifle with both flat trajectory and a fairly heavy projectile mass.
that makes hits at longer ranges and deep penetration more likely,
but a balance in rifle weight and acceptable perceived recoil is an individual choice.
personally I want to carry a rifle I have 100% confidence in and for me thats a 340 wby or a 375 H&H
why? well I used a 30/06 on my first two elk, both ran after being hit well, they did not go far, but I was not all that impressed.
I've never had a single elk I shot with a 340 wby or 375 H&H not give a pronounced indication they were hard hit nor go far once hit.
Id remind anyone looking to purchase an accurate dependable hunting rifle that youll want high quality optics and rock solid scope mounts, the best rifle available will be seriously hampered if its not matched to clear and solidly consistent optics!
one of the most common failures I've seen over the decades was not related to the basic rifle function (although that did on occasion happen) but much more commonly loose scope mounts or cheap optics that failed to retain zero or fogged.
for most hunting you don,t need some huge high magnification scope , what you need is decent quality and rock solid dependability.
the newer LEOPOLD and NIKON 30mm tube size scopes are mostly an excellent value for the price.
yes theres hundreds of options, but if your looking for a good value Id suggest you want to select one with top quality optics for the price, a 30mm tube and 50mm front lens in a well known respected brand is a good start point for good low light transmission and clear target,vision. something similar to these linked below would provide an excellent match to a deer or elk rifle to be used for precise shot placement with most reasonable caliber elk/deer rifles, set on the lowest setting they allow you to make very rapid and accurate shots, if you have the time to get a solid field position, jack the magnification up as required.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1362146064/leupold-vx-r-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-3-9x-50mm-matte
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...aff-7-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-25-10x-50mm-matte
https://www.opticsplanet.com/v/12325-browning-blr-scout-style-mount.html
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most modern quality scopes are far better than they used to be, but there are some advantages to buying the larger objective lens and 30mm tube designs.
if you've ever taken a scope like one these out at dusk too actually compare how clear the details are you can see, you might be amazed at the difference between the scopes similar to these compared to the older 1" tube and smaller lens size scopes, the newer scopes are a quantum leap in quality over the scopes available even 10-15 years ago.
If you get the chance take out several rifles with different optics , out at dusk and look at fine details on something like a fence at even 150 yards, the difference in the finer detail you can see in less than ideal lighting will astound you!
(this may not seem that important as most scopes look crystal clear in some well lighted store, but if your still hunting the thick timber at dawn or dusk it makes a world of difference if your trying to figure out if your looking at antlers or branches in the lodge pole timber
in my experience youll get about 90% of your shots looking like these, at under 200 yards rather than game standing out in a well lighted field
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1362146064/leupold-vx-r-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-3-9x-50mm-matte
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...aff-7-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-25-10x-50mm-matte
In my opinion, if you have years of success, using some favorite rifle and cartridge,
it makes no logical sense in my opinion to run out and purchase the latest firearm or cartridge being promoted.
if you've seen as much game dropped very effectively with a wide variety of rifles and calibers as I have over decades it becomes obvious that anything from a 257 roberts up to a 458 win gets the job done in experienced hands, its just not that hard to kill deer and elk, if you know the games anatomy, your rifles trajectory and if you can hit exactly where you want too.
theres little doubt that some choices have more power and longer range advantages over others , but that does not make a skilled and experienced rifleman less effective with his choice of rifle and cartridge if hes willing to work within the limitations his rifle/cartridge choice has.
personally I prefer a 340 wby with a 250 grain bullet or a 375 h&h with a 270 grain bullet,(decades of success, and no failures, make those personal favorites) but I would grab a 270 win with a premium 150 grain and have zero worries.
my late hunting partner RON,used a browning BLR in 358 win, and though I was insane, he referred to my rifles as "CANNONS" the odd thing was we both were regularly successful , beating the state 20% average hunter success in our group regularly.
one other rather successful member AL,has a 6.5mm Swedish mauser , its got a long successful record also and FRANK prefers a 308 win with 200 grain speer bullets
I was asked after posting on one thread, in a private e-mail, why I preferred the 340 wby and 375 H&H for hunting elk, as I stated a few times,
when I started hunting elk my very experienced mentors strongly suggested,
I purchase a Remington 760 in caliber 30/06, as that combo had proven to work very well for at least 20 years in several of their hands.
the reason I doubted that,was an effective lack of experience,
I was 18-19, when I killed my first elk, I had expected any correctly hit elk to drop on the spot,on bullet impact, as I gained experience, it became very obvious that there was a huge potential that a 100% lethal wound, even when perfectly placed and when having a good understanding of an elks anatomy was not going to instantly immobilizing.
soon after my second successful elk hunt, I read every book on elk hunting I could locate, the result was I purchased a 340 wby,every elk I've ever shot with that rifle (and a 375 H&H carbine) showed a instant and obvious reaction to being hit, (to me thats very reassuring) while the first two elk I shot, were very well placed shots with a 30/06, using 220 grain round nose ammo, (what my mentors suggested) they just started running, for a few seconds, thus I thought Id missed... but as I gained experience I realized a well placed shot is lethal, this was very obvious when one of the members of my hunt club consistently killed elk with a BLR in 257 roberts and using a 115 grain nosler bullet, it became all too obvious that elk are not bullet proof and a well placed shot is lethal and caliber is not as critical as you might imagine. the critical part is that finding an elk and making that single precise shot placement.
there,s zero question from what I've seen, that a 340 wby and 375 H&H hits harder and game drops faster on average, with similar hits, but that's not the same thing as being more lethal, as a well placed hit to the vitals is lethal regardless of cartridge head stamp, its just that some times it takes a bit longer for the game you shot to realize that,
and he may travel a considerable distance before it becomes obvious, as vital organs fail.
its not the rifle its the experience and the skill and tenacity of the guy holding that rifle that maters more.
ID simply point out that almost any center-fire rifle will work
when everything goes right,
but remember almost any center-fire rifle from 25-45 caliber will work,
if the guy holding it has the experience and skill to use it to its full potential,
and understands its limitations.
you are certainly not going too need a 458 lott or 458 win to hunt elk, but both rifles hand-loaded
to hot 45/70 power levels make excellent thick timber elk rifles,
where range under 200 yards are the rule and a 400 grain bullet at perhaps 1800 fps-2200 fps make a very effective elk hunting rifle
Id strongly suggest you take a practical view based on decades of experience,
and select a cartridge at least as powerful as a 270 win, Ive never found a thing to need improvement using a 340 WBY mag with 250 -270 grain hornady bullets, with a 4x-12x scope
you might want a 13"- 27" tall adjustable height, harris swivel bi-pod, to make accurate sitting and prone shots easyy if you want to maximize long range potential.
my 375 H&H carbine with a 2x7x leopold scope gets the nod if I want to stalk dark timber in narrow canyons far from road access.
but even a 308 win or 270 win works fine its not power its proper shot placement and using what YOU have 100% confidence in that matters
I think we all find we have favorite rifle action types , personally I like and trust single shot browning falling block rifles like the browning 78 ,in 300 wby,
and the bolt action weatherby mark V ,in 340 wby, and the 375 H&H, bolt action, for most of my hunting,
(you might feel thats excessive, I know I'm in a minority)
I could not pick or would want to even suggest what YOU might prefer,
some guys like blondes some guys prefer brunettes... find what you like best, and what you have fun with, and youll never be wrong.
I've purchased, and used a great many rifle calibers from 6 mm rem to 458 LOTT and a 58 and 62 caliber muzzle loader's
many guys seem to be adversely effected by any significant recoil and many prefer lighter weight rifles, thats fine,
I find lots of the guys I hunt with preferred pump and lever actions
personally I prefer the .338-.45 calibers, they tend to get obviously noticeable results
you can't ignore physics a larger and heavier projectile tends to hit harder,
but its a judgement call on how hard you want to hit the target or what trajectory and recoil limitations your willing to deal with
I've seen several elk killed with a 257 roberts and a couple killed with a 45/70, , most guys seem to find a 308 win, 30/06 or 270 win works well.
power is obviously not as critical as shot placement
if you can accurately use a 300 mag-375 mag the extra power has marginal advantages in a few applications but its rarely if ever going make or break a hunts success.
from what Ive seen having confidence in your choice of rifle and being very familiar with its quirks and characteristics and limitations is the key to success not the action type or caliber or case head stamp.
several of the guys I hunt elk with think the 7600 35 whelen, is a top choice,
Ive used one and I don,t see a damn thing thats in need of improvement if you hunt the ticker timber areas.
http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/default.asp?Caliber=35 Whelen&Weight=All&type=Rifle&Source=
remingtom 7600 in caliber 35 whelen, or 30/06
the browning BLR in 358 win 308 win,or 450 marlin
and the ruger #1 in 338 win 30/06, or 300 mag
remember the PROJECTILE does all the work, without a good design in any caliber your screwed.
and youll generally want a slow expanding bullet with at least a .260 sectional density and a thick jacket,
for its intended velocity range to maximize penetration.
personally I want exit wounds in a strait line from entrance impact points, for blood trails a blind guy could follow
and decent expansion characteristics, for rapid kills this requires bullet mass to achieve on an ELK.
Ive used a 340 wby and 375 H&H on most ELK HUNTS
https://www.hornady.com/bullets/rifle/#!/
If you have a
308 win, 30/06 ,7mm mag, youll be fine with a good quality 160-175 grain bullet.
I will point out that in almost 50 years of hunting the number of elk Ive even seen past 300 yards is minimal,
Id bet the average distance all the elk taken by the members of our club over that last 45 years was well under 150 yards.
a 308 win or 270 win,
is my idea of a minimal power level,
with a 150 grain bullet as a minimum.
but what ever you select you'll need to practice with your choice enough to be confident you can accurately place shots from field positions out to at least 350 yards
(most elk are shot at shorter ranges,)
a properly loaded 270 win or 30/06 would never be a really bad choice,
in most areas.
that being stated things rarely go perfectly,
angles, ranges time frames, your ability to shoot well from field positions,
and other conditions rarely allow you to make the type of shots you see being made in those videos we all see.
within reasonable limits your rifle choice is less important than your physical condition,
your ability to cover a lot of terrain on foot,
your skill at using topo maps and binoculars,and your persistence,
if you hunt every available hour rather than sitting in camp,
and your ability to hit a target with your rifle of choice quickly and accurately ,
from a rapidly acquired field position.
I've used a 338 win and a 340 wby, and even a 358 win,with 250 grain bullets,
375 H&H and 35 whelen and 45/70 for decades with excellent results.
I,ve used several of the 300 mag rifles,
any of the rifle calibers above work fine if a reasonably heavy for caliber projectile is selected,
if the games anatomy is well understood, and rifle is used correctly.
(but consider I generally hunt Elk in thick timber in steep canyon country.)
you'll seldom go wrong selecting a fairly heavy for caliber bullet,
with a thick jacket that allows deep penetration.
(obviously shot placement,
and a good knowledge of the games anatomy,
and lots of field practice is critical)
while it might be amusing to discuss the merits of your personal favorite rifle and caliber,
it would be hard to find a reasonably popular center-fire 25-45 caliber rifle,
that has at least 2000 ft lbs of muzzle energy and at least 110 grains of bullet mass,
that won,t work well in experienced hands.
years ago I saw a game department survey made where they asked hundreds of hunters at a western BLM check point, to look out at 5 different colored flags placed at random but carefully measured distances and write down what each person estimated the distance too be from the check point, they were handed a pen and a survey card, they were told NONE of the colored flags were at an even 100 yard multiple but that was the only info , each flag was a different, color, placed in a
different direction and at a different distance.
the survey taker pointed out each colored flag and asked them to write down their estimated range!
they tabulated the actual hunters field estimates being made on the spot, vs the carefully measure actual distances.
.
.
the results were about what Id have expected..after decades of listening to guys claim they killed deer & elk at 400 and 500 and 600 yards.......
the vast majority were very VERY bad at estimating distances correctly past about 150 yards...some estimates that were over 70% wrong were not uncommon
decent quality optics are mandatory
https://www.midsouthshooterssupply....x42mm-30mm-tube-nikoplex-reticle-matte-finish
Ive been looking for, and really wanted, a stainless/laminated ruger #1 in 458 lott at a decent price for about 10 years, ever since one of my buddies bought one at a local gun show for $900, he loves his, I reload for him, and no he refuses to sell his.
every time I have the cash I either can't locate one, or theres a family crisis that used all the saved cash
given a choice that would be my next rifle
I've owned both the Ruger #1 and browning 78 single shots
both are very high quality and potentially very accurate rifles.
I've had marginally better groups with the rugers, I've owned,
but both will produce 1" hundred-yard groups with tailored ammo
I personally like the looks of the brownings a bit better.
youll do great with either choice!
heres a few pictures off the net, showing rifles very similar to those I own
my brownings been rechambered in 300 wby
the ruger rechambered in 257 wby
each of our personal experiences accumulates over time,
and each while probably significant different has a profound effect on what we personally see as the ideal equipment list , and colors our choices.
I prefer to hunt out of a back pack, think mountain man,
tactics with very limited minimal but better more modern equipment choices
most of my fellow elk hunters in my group think I'm at least a marginal masochist, because I will almost always, leave camp and am perfectly comfortable under conditions many feel are not tolerable.
personally I want to cover ground , but leave no trace I was there, I select a light flexible but totally durable back pack, minimal equipment,
a fairly powerful rifle like a 375 H&H or 340 WBY a 22lr revolver,a kukri, and a -10F rated sleeping bag , and a parka and poncho, a couple 2 ltr bottle canteens a few tools, mres, and think little of spending 3-4 days away from camp.
if your not afraid of getting lost,, not all that concerned with having more than one meal a day, not worried about spending nights sleeping sitting against , or laying under, a large over hanging conifer, tree,
even if the temps drop and your waking up under a foot of fresh snow, miles from your truck, I can totally enjoy the hunt..
too many guys are convinced they must be back in camp at dark, too many guys in my opinion think they must have a hot meal and a camp fire.
I cover a good deal of carefully pre-selected, terrain, but I don,t travel fast, Im just persistent, I really don,t care where I am at dawn or dusk, I just want to find a decent elk,
most of the guys in our club want to sit around a camp fire and drink beer at night back at the truck.
I've never been all that concerned with huge antlers but yeah Id prefer to shoot something impressive just like most of you.
this style of hunt is obviously not that popular as only a few of they guys Ive hunted with wanted to repeat the hunts even when I'm successful most years, AT least 50% of the trips in at least getting a decent mule deer or elk.
I read the post above and had to ask... why the 375 H&H?]
The simple answer, I carry and use what I'm 100% sure works,and what I personally feel is the best choice, for me.
I would Not be overly concerned with the choice in rifles or caliber,
my late hunting partner used nothing but a 358 BLR loaded with 250 grain speer bullets
and my new hunting partner,is absolutely convinced that anything less than a 270 win loaded with 150 grain boat tail bullets will bounce off anything with fur.
the truth is that anything Ive seen used from a 257 roberts to a 458 win, works,
if you can place your shots accurately. (that does not mean a larger caliber won,t hit harder ,but dead, is dead and a 257 roberts 100 grain bullet placed in the heart/lungs is leathal)
your issue is NOT power its confidence in your rifle and Your ability to use it!
personally I've come to like the 340 WBY and 375 H&H, everything I've ever shot, with either rifle drops fairly close to the point of bullet impact,
but I can say the same for Rons 358 win and Bills 270 win
the main issue you face is finding a viable legal elk thats well inside your comfortable rifle range and placing your shot well,
thus good clear binoculars, the ability to read and accurately interpret topo maps, and good boots and the ability to stay warm & dry and in the field from before dawn to after dark,
to maximize,,your chances of being in the right place at the correct time is more critical.
Id bet theres thousands of Elk that are still wondering colorado each year simply because, many guys hunt hard the first two too three days, get frustrated & exhausted,
and spend the rest of the week or so sitting around camp or driving around looking for elk out of the trucks window rather than,
checking out the small side canyons, that might require a hour or so walking to gain access.
PERSISTENCE MATTERS, YOUR PHYSICAL CONDITION, and YOUR ABILITY TO SHOOT ACCURATELY MATTERS
BEING in the correct location at the correct time is not 100% due to luck! you can swing the odds in your favor,
simply by being in a reasonably likely location during the vast majority of the season rather than cooking hod dogs and drinking beer in camp.
theres several guys in my elk hunting club that really prefer to carry a browning BLR, my late hunting partner, RON, preferred a BLR in 358 win loaded with a 250 grain speer over 44 grains of IMR 4064 and a fed 215 primer
consistent 1"-1.2" bench rested 100 yard 3 shot groups were common.
sighted in at 3.5" high at 100 yards its almost dead on at 200 yards and about 10"-12" low at 300 yards, he used that load for over 3 decades and was very successful, most elk were 1 shot kills.
I don,t think either guy ever had in the last 35-40 years a single shot taken exceeding 200 yards
https://www.speer-ammo.com/products/bullets/rifle-bullets/hot-cor-rifle-bullet/2453
http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/d...;type=rifle&Order=Powder&Source=
one other guy FRANK, prefers the 308 win BLR loaded with a speer 200 grain bullet over 45 grains of WW760 was his preferred load.
https://www.speer-ammo.com/products/bullets/rifle-bullets/hot-cor-rifle-bullet/2211
http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/d...;type=rifle&Order=Powder&Source=
or sako or ruger carbine
https://www.fieldandstream.com/12-best-rifle-cartridges-for-elk-hunting
example
Theres a group that feels the 243 win, 6 mm rem,-257 Roberts , 25/06 ,257 wby,up to about the 270 win, are perfectly acceptable Elk rifles,and they can be under ideal conditions.
these lighter and smaller caliber rifles are deadly in skilled and experienced hand's and when used with the correct quality bullets fully up to the job of killing elk,
if the shooter realizes the limitations hes dealing with, and when things go well.
and theres the group that thinks you'll be far better off with a 378/338 mag 375 H&H-416 Remington,404 , 458 win ETC,
these calibers certainly develop the power and penetration required if the correct bullet is selected ,
but the recoil levels, and in a few cases the limited range, due too lower velocity and massive bullet weight, can make them a rifle & caliber choice best left to experienced hunters and best used in thicker timber where ranges will tend to be under 250 yards.
but theres few guys that really debate the merits or lack of same of the 7mm and 300 magnums, 325 win 300wby-8mm rem,338 win 340 wby, etc.
as those calibers having the necessary clout and range, too be used effectively on ELK, along with the flat trajectory with the better ammo.
from what I've seen during several dozen elk hunts in Colorado and Wyoming, you can get the job done with about any accurate center fire rifle provided you can shoot accurately and know your rifles trajectory and use some common sense, in taking reasonable shots.
a 270 win or 30/06 will certainly get the job done in skilled hands, but a bit more bullet weight and diameter seems to help you impress elk with your rifles lethality.
http://www.petersenshunting.com/gea...y-mag-vs-375-hh-whats-the-best-elk-cartridge/
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1320632047/nikon-prostaff-7-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-4-16x50mm-matte
especially when we look at the ballistics, and pragmatically review the track record of those calibers in actual field use, keep in mind youll rarely get a second shot if you miss the first and youll probably only see one or two legal elk on any hunt, you'll be lucky to have the time to make a decent first shot, so you better learn to make accurate shots very quickly from field positions.(use of a rifle and bullet that can do considerable damage and deep penetration ups your odds in your favor, but make that first shot really count, and youll rarely need a second shot
so the debate, seems to really center around the recoil and noise levels, and cost of the rifle and ammo,and weight of the rifle your willing to accept or pay for, or the weight you'll carry,etc. and what someone is willing to accept , in recoil, rifle weight and cost to get the job done effectively.
we are all forced too make compromises at some point.
few guys want to carry a 9-10 lb rifle, or pay more than about $700-$1500 for a rifle,few guys want the rifle scope to give them eyebrow scars, if the don,t constantly keep the recoil levels in mind before firing,but
most guys want a rifle that at least in theory reaches out to 350-500yards , even thought most ELK are shot at under 350 yards and most guys in my experience don,t want to shoot a harder recoiling caliber from the sitting ,kneeling or prone position, making the real hard kickers, not really an option, as a truly useful rifle under all conditions in the field.
If I were to suggest a good compromise a 35 whelen loaded with a 225-250 grain bullet is a decent choice and the 338 win with similar bullet weights,is certainly right up there near the top choice.
your choice always involves some compromises.
so what are the factors you look for, what are YOU willing to give up and what factors are mandatory in your ELK rifle choice and WHY?
if your looking for a decent high quality single shot falling block ruger #1 in stainless ID suggest you find and buy one very soon, as it appears ruger is no longer making them
2000
NO. 1 Stainless Standard Rifle: 26" Med ($820)
.25-06, 7mm Rem Mag, 7mm STW, .300 Wby Mag @ 8 lbs. Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Varminter: 24" Hvy ($820)
.22-250 @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-V-BBZ
2001
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($845)
.243, .25-06, 7mm Rem Mag, 7mm STW, .30-06, .300 Wby Mag @ 8 lbs Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Varminter: 24" Hvy ($845)
.22-250 @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-V-BBZ
2002
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($885)
.243 Win, .25-06, 7mm Rem Mag, 7mm STW, .308 Win, .30-06, .300 Win Mag @ 8 lbs
Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Varminter: 24" Hvy ($885)
.22-250 @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-V-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Tropical: 24" Hvy ($885)
.375 H&H Mag, .416 Rigby @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-H-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Sporter: 22" Med ($885)
.45-70 Gov @ 7¼ lbs Catalog No. K1-S-BBZ
2003
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($910)
.243, .25-06, .270, 7mm Rem. Mag, 7mm STW, .308, .30-06, .300 Win Mag @ 8 lbs
Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Varminter: 24" Hvy ($910)
.22-250 @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-V-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Tropical: 24" Hvy ($910)
.375 H&H Mag, .405 Win, .416 Rigby @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-H-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Sporter: 22" Med ($910)
.45-70 Gov @ 7¼ lbs Catalog No. K1-S-BBZ
2004
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($950)
.243, .25-06, .270, 7mm Rem Mag, 7mm STW, .308, .30-06, .300 Win Mag @ 8 lbs
Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Varminter: 26"&24" Hvy ($950)
.204 Ruger (26"), .22-250 (24") @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-V-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Tropical: 24" Hvy ($950)
.375 H&H Mag, .405 Win, .416 Rigby, .458 Lott @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-H-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Sporter: 22" Med ($950)
.45-70 Gov @ 7¼ lbs Catalog No. K1-S-BBZ
2005
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($998)
.243, .25-06, .270, 7mm Rem Mag, .308, .30-06, .300 Win Mag @ 8 lbs
Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Varminter: 26"&24" Hvy ($998)
.204 Ruger (26"), .22-250 (24") @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-V-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Tropical: 24" Hvy ($998)
.375 H&H Mag, .405 Win, .416 Rigby, .458 Lott @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-H-BBZ
(Ruger told me in 2012 that no more than 250 of the .405 were made in total for all the years.)
NO. 1 Stainless Sporter: 22" Med ($998)
.45-70 Gov @ 7¼ lbs Catalog No. K1-S-BBZ
2006
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($1,000)
.243, .25-06, .270, 7mm Rem Mag, .308, .30-06, .300 Win Mag @ 8 lbs
Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Varminter: 26"&24" Hvy($1,032)
.204 Ruger (26"), .22-250 (24") @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-V-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Tropical: 24" Hvy ($1,032)
.375 H&H Mag, .405 Win, .416 Rigby, .458 Lott @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-H-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Sporter: 22" Med ($1,032)
.45-70 Gov @ 7¼ lbs Catalog No. K1-S-BBZ
2007
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($1,065)
.243, .25-06, .270, 7mm Rem Mag, .30-06, .300 Win Mag @ 8½ lbs
Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Varminter: 26"&24" Hvy ($1,065)
.204 Ruger (26"), .22-250 (24") @ 9 lbs Catalog No. K1-V-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Tropical: 24" Hvy ($1,065)
.416 Rigby, .458 Lott @ 8½ lbs Catalog No. K1-H-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Sporter: 22" Med ($1,065)
.45-70 Gov @ 7¼ lbs Catalog No. K1-S-BBZ
2008
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($1,130)
.243, .25-06, .270, 7mm Rem Mag, .30-06, .300 Win Mag @ 8 ¼ - 8½ lbs
Models: 1348, 1394, 11305, 1395, 1397, 1396. Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Varminter: 26"&24" Hvy ($1,130)
.204 Ruger (26"), .22-250 (24") @ 9 lbs. Model: 11311, 1392. Catalog No. K1-V-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Tropical: 24" Hvy ($1,130)
.375 H&H, .458 Lott @ 8½ - 9½ lbs. Models: 1398, 11302 Catalog No. K1-H-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Sporter: 22" Med ($1,130)
.45-70 Gov. @ 7¼ lbs Model: 1399 Catalog No. K1-S-BBZ
2009
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($1,186)
.243, .25-06, .270, 7mm Rem Mag, .30-06, .300 Win Mag @ 8 ¼ - 8½ lbs
Models: 1348, 1394, 11305, 1395, 1397, 1396 Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
NO. 1 Stainless Sporter: 22" Med ($1,186)
.375 Ruger, .45-70 Gov @ 7¼ lbs Models: 11331, 1399 Catalog No. K1-S-BBZ
2010
NO. 1 Stainless Standard: 26" Med ($1,222)
.270, .300 Win Mag @ 8 ¼ - 8 ½ lbs
Models: 11305, 1396 Catalog No. K1-B-BBZ
No more are catalog listed from 2010 on...
ruger makes a darn accurate single shot in 270, 30/06, 338 win,35 whelen, 458 win, and 45/70 that all have excellent reputations in my elk camp.
BROWNING BLR lever actions in 358 win, 308 win and 450 marlin have all been used very successfully,
as have the remington 7600 slide action in both 30/06 and 35 whelen, and theres several guys using 338 win, and 375 H&H bolt actions
now personally I've found the 30/06-to-35 whelen to be about as low in the power band as IM truly comfortable hunting ELK with as I have total confidence in that caliber range with 180 grain-250 grain bullets, and the combos ability to kill ELK, Ive used a 30/06 with 100% success, its 100& lethal, theres zero doubt there, but it does not seem to get an elks attention, on bullet impact nearly as well as the 250 grain 35 whelen has on the several occasions when ,I used the 35 whelen vs the 30/06 , Ive used both so I can compare, and almost all my shots were rather similar mid chest lung shots., usually from under 200 yards. and I feel that the 300-mags, 340 wby and 375 H&H to be about the max practical recoil levels, and rifle weight I'M willing to put up with.
the 270 win loaded with a 150 grain speer over 54 grains of IMR 4831 with a fed 215 primer
or
the 30/06 loaded with a 200 grain speer over 49 grains of ww760 with a fed 215 primer
will kill any ELK effectively, keep in mind your whole hunts success may depend on your ability to make one well placed shot and your knowledge of elk anatomy and your field accuracy
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-a-good-all-around-elk-mule-deer-rifle.12948/
http://www.shootingtimes.com/ammo/ammunition_st_exforelk_200908/
http://www.chuckhawks.com/compared_elk_rifles_field.htm
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ange-calibers-for-elk-are-not-mandatory.1275/
but my favorite calibers are the 338 win
250 grain hornady over 60 grains of ww760 with a fed 215 primer
and
35 whelen, loaded with a 250 speer over 54 grains of IMR 4895 with a fed 215 primer
or
a 375 H&H
300 grain hornady over 77 grains of ww760 with a fed 215 primer
any of the five work fine PROVIDED you place your shots well, the three heavier calibers seem to get the job done a bit faster but a single hit in the right place with any of those results in a dead ELK
When I started hunting I carried a 760 rem in 30/06, on the advice of several experienced mentors, it worked great, but I was under the impression, that I needed a magnum caliber as the first couple elk I shot failed to instantly fall over when hit,
I upgraded to and I have mostly carried a 340 wby mark V or a sako 375 H&H carbine,
these did not kill any better but you darn sure got a more noticeable reaction when you hit game! (they became my trusted companions for decades.)
I have had a remington 7600 in 35 whelen as a shared hunting camp back-up rifle available on many of the trips to hunt elk, and its saved the hunt for several guys over the years when for various reasons their rifle stopped functioning.
the more experience I got the less I worried about the rifle being used, simply because Ive seen everything from a 257 robert's BLR to a 458 win ruger single shot, used successfully, to kill elk.
I personally trust, and prefer to carry the .338-.375 caliber rifles , but Ive seen that anything from .257 to .458 works if the guy carrying its knows how to use what he has in his hands.
I've just seen too many elk and big mule deer killed very dead with a 257 roberts, 6.5mm swedish mauser , or 308 win, to think you need a magnum, or guys using a
444 marlin, 45/70 or 458 win to think you need the flattest trajectory available
Ive used either a 35 whelen, 375 H&H, and 340wby on easily 75%-80% or more of MY ELK hunting trips Ive used a 340 wby and 375 H&H on most ELK HUNTS
a great deal of selecting the best personally acceptable and dependable elk rifle, will be related ,
to what you personally have confidence in using.
I've seen more guys use a 30/06 or 35 whelen than most other calibers, but I've seen enough other cartridges used to ,
conclude its not, so much the cartridge you selected,as ,
its the skill, persistence and ability of the guy holding the rifle thats the true significant factor.
the fact is simply that most center-fire rifles are more than lethal if the shots well placed,
the key or problem is finding a legal elk and getting into effective range to place the lethal shot.
yes theres certainly advantages in selecting a rifle with both flat trajectory and a fairly heavy projectile mass.
that makes hits at longer ranges and deep penetration more likely,
but a balance in rifle weight and acceptable perceived recoil is an individual choice.
personally I want to carry a rifle I have 100% confidence in and for me thats a 340 wby or a 375 H&H
why? well I used a 30/06 on my first two elk, both ran after being hit well, they did not go far, but I was not all that impressed.
I've never had a single elk I shot with a 340 wby or 375 H&H not give a pronounced indication they were hard hit nor go far once hit.
Id remind anyone looking to purchase an accurate dependable hunting rifle that youll want high quality optics and rock solid scope mounts, the best rifle available will be seriously hampered if its not matched to clear and solidly consistent optics!
one of the most common failures I've seen over the decades was not related to the basic rifle function (although that did on occasion happen) but much more commonly loose scope mounts or cheap optics that failed to retain zero or fogged.
for most hunting you don,t need some huge high magnification scope , what you need is decent quality and rock solid dependability.
the newer LEOPOLD and NIKON 30mm tube size scopes are mostly an excellent value for the price.
yes theres hundreds of options, but if your looking for a good value Id suggest you want to select one with top quality optics for the price, a 30mm tube and 50mm front lens in a well known respected brand is a good start point for good low light transmission and clear target,vision. something similar to these linked below would provide an excellent match to a deer or elk rifle to be used for precise shot placement with most reasonable caliber elk/deer rifles, set on the lowest setting they allow you to make very rapid and accurate shots, if you have the time to get a solid field position, jack the magnification up as required.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1362146064/leupold-vx-r-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-3-9x-50mm-matte
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...aff-7-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-25-10x-50mm-matte
https://www.opticsplanet.com/v/12325-browning-blr-scout-style-mount.html
https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/519551/weaver-6-hole-weaver-style-rings-matte?utm_medium=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Optics - Scope Rings, Bases, Mounting & Accessories&utm_content=519551&cm_mmc=pf_ci_google-_-Optics - Scope Rings, Bases, Mounting & Accessories-_-Weaver-_-519551&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq6X4zMqA2QIV2brACh0otQ2aEAQYAiABEgIgfPD_BwE
https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/917995/weaver-surethread-adhesive-10-ml
most modern quality scopes are far better than they used to be, but there are some advantages to buying the larger objective lens and 30mm tube designs.
if you've ever taken a scope like one these out at dusk too actually compare how clear the details are you can see, you might be amazed at the difference between the scopes similar to these compared to the older 1" tube and smaller lens size scopes, the newer scopes are a quantum leap in quality over the scopes available even 10-15 years ago.
If you get the chance take out several rifles with different optics , out at dusk and look at fine details on something like a fence at even 150 yards, the difference in the finer detail you can see in less than ideal lighting will astound you!
(this may not seem that important as most scopes look crystal clear in some well lighted store, but if your still hunting the thick timber at dawn or dusk it makes a world of difference if your trying to figure out if your looking at antlers or branches in the lodge pole timber
in my experience youll get about 90% of your shots looking like these, at under 200 yards rather than game standing out in a well lighted field
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1362146064/leupold-vx-r-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-3-9x-50mm-matte
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1...aff-7-rifle-scope-30mm-tube-25-10x-50mm-matte
In my opinion, if you have years of success, using some favorite rifle and cartridge,
it makes no logical sense in my opinion to run out and purchase the latest firearm or cartridge being promoted.
if you've seen as much game dropped very effectively with a wide variety of rifles and calibers as I have over decades it becomes obvious that anything from a 257 roberts up to a 458 win gets the job done in experienced hands, its just not that hard to kill deer and elk, if you know the games anatomy, your rifles trajectory and if you can hit exactly where you want too.
theres little doubt that some choices have more power and longer range advantages over others , but that does not make a skilled and experienced rifleman less effective with his choice of rifle and cartridge if hes willing to work within the limitations his rifle/cartridge choice has.
personally I prefer a 340 wby with a 250 grain bullet or a 375 h&h with a 270 grain bullet,(decades of success, and no failures, make those personal favorites) but I would grab a 270 win with a premium 150 grain and have zero worries.
my late hunting partner RON,used a browning BLR in 358 win, and though I was insane, he referred to my rifles as "CANNONS" the odd thing was we both were regularly successful , beating the state 20% average hunter success in our group regularly.
one other rather successful member AL,has a 6.5mm Swedish mauser , its got a long successful record also and FRANK prefers a 308 win with 200 grain speer bullets
I was asked after posting on one thread, in a private e-mail, why I preferred the 340 wby and 375 H&H for hunting elk, as I stated a few times,
when I started hunting elk my very experienced mentors strongly suggested,
I purchase a Remington 760 in caliber 30/06, as that combo had proven to work very well for at least 20 years in several of their hands.
the reason I doubted that,was an effective lack of experience,
I was 18-19, when I killed my first elk, I had expected any correctly hit elk to drop on the spot,on bullet impact, as I gained experience, it became very obvious that there was a huge potential that a 100% lethal wound, even when perfectly placed and when having a good understanding of an elks anatomy was not going to instantly immobilizing.
soon after my second successful elk hunt, I read every book on elk hunting I could locate, the result was I purchased a 340 wby,every elk I've ever shot with that rifle (and a 375 H&H carbine) showed a instant and obvious reaction to being hit, (to me thats very reassuring) while the first two elk I shot, were very well placed shots with a 30/06, using 220 grain round nose ammo, (what my mentors suggested) they just started running, for a few seconds, thus I thought Id missed... but as I gained experience I realized a well placed shot is lethal, this was very obvious when one of the members of my hunt club consistently killed elk with a BLR in 257 roberts and using a 115 grain nosler bullet, it became all too obvious that elk are not bullet proof and a well placed shot is lethal and caliber is not as critical as you might imagine. the critical part is that finding an elk and making that single precise shot placement.
there,s zero question from what I've seen, that a 340 wby and 375 H&H hits harder and game drops faster on average, with similar hits, but that's not the same thing as being more lethal, as a well placed hit to the vitals is lethal regardless of cartridge head stamp, its just that some times it takes a bit longer for the game you shot to realize that,
and he may travel a considerable distance before it becomes obvious, as vital organs fail.
its not the rifle its the experience and the skill and tenacity of the guy holding that rifle that maters more.
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