what to look for in a "GOOD" engine combo

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
I got asked , "what makes a GOOD vs A poor engine combo?"
and without getting into specific combos , too deeply,
lets look at that question

like with most performance parts and applications the critical part of the build,
is generally in selecting the correct components for that particular application,
and in assembling those components correctly with the correct clearances.

its always a multi layered process,

you can,t expect sub-par or weak parts to withstand the shock and torque and rpm/impact loads.
you can,t also expect improperly installed or clearanced or insufficiently lubricated or cooled parts to last very long under loads.
obviously the process REQUIRES the person doing the work, or assembly to do some in depth research,
and have any tools or measuring devices that will be needed.

the first few things I look for in most magazine engine builds, I read about is the use of fairly easy to locate parts, from several known manufacturer's , having a good reputation ,for supplying quality components, and a combo of components that has a semi- reasonable cost to power ratio, and one the average guy can afford to build with easily duplicated parts.
keep in mind theres a HUGE difference in the component selection process and basic goals when building a race engine, where peak power is your main concern, and rebuilds and parts replacement are EXPECTED on a regular basis, vs a high performance engine designed for street/strip use and at least occasional transportation use, where long term durability and rock solid dependability are your main concerns, and you expect to see 100K plus mileage out of any combo, you build
youll also want a parts list from a source that will be around for years, and have access to replacement parts.
Parts that won,t cost a great deal more, than similar components, from other sources, and parts that I can purchase and replace at a later date if necessary.
I also read carefully to see it the articles obviously designed to push or sell particular components , and compare the results to personal experience because , its common for those magazine engine builds to leave out or flat out lie about results at times
I also want to know that the combo will be durable over the long term, and I generally look for a combo that won,t require excessive or expensive custom machine work.A combo that will run on available pump octane fuel,and if the guys building the engine don,t concern themselves with building a stable valve train at the intended rpm range and building very effective lubrication system, and efficient exhaust scavenging , and effective cooling,the combos likely to lack durability!
youll generally find the better engine combos reach peak power about 1500rpm-2000rpm higher than peak torque, but have that peak power curve slightly below critical stress levels (generally under 4200fpm in a chevy V8) and maintain the fairly flat torque curve well over the useable rpm range thus gearing and tire size matching the intended use is also critical

I generally look at the combo , and calculate the peak and average piston speed as its a good indication of stress levels , as anything I'd suggest building should be durable over the long term, if you constantly need to replace components due to wear or parts failure, its not a well thought thru combo.
I want any American V8 I build or recommend duplicating to make or exceed at least 1.2 horse power per cubic inch of displacement, without power adders.
one of the first things youll want to look at is the basic engine block and rotating assembly strength, a bit of research , in the strengths and flaws of each engine family design,the extent of aftermarket parts support, may provide you with info that can save you a great deal of wasted effort
Any good combo should have a torque curve that will be useful in the applications intended rpm range.
On most muscle cars that will place the torque curve peak about 1000rpm-1500rpm lower than the power peak and the peak power a bit below 4200FPM in piston speed
a good many times I see guys build engines that might make very good power , but not in an rpm range that is really useful for their application.
it does little good to build an engine that makes killer power levels at 6500 plus rpms and then stick it in a car with 3.07:1 rear gears and an automatic transmission that shifts at 5500rpm, thus preventing the engine from operating at anywhere near its most efficient rpm band, most of the time!
you will find these threads useful if you read thru and look thru sub links most people don,t take the time to research and plan their engine builds to match the application, and as a result they tend to think they all want 500-600 plus hp from reading the magazine articles , but the truth is that a responsive engine with massive torque in the useable rpm range make for a far better choice if the cars street driven, now thats not saying you can,t have both impressive horsepower and a great torque curve but just keep in mind every choice is a compromise and if you concentrate on building an engine that works in the rpm band you actually use rather than getting mesmerized by peak hp numbers alone youll have better results.
you'll
also need to keep in mind it does no good to build a killer engine that produces 500 plus hp at 6700 rpm and match it to a rear gear ratio and transmission gearing, and shift points or converter stall speed, that keeps the engine in the 1600 rpm-6000 rpm power range 90% of the time, if your smart your not competing for peak hp bragging rights your trying to build , impressive and instantly responsive torque in the usable rpm band.
Yes I've constantly tried to point out the fact that all the components in any engine, and correctly matching the drive train combos gearing, exhaust flow, intake and cam timing along with the fuel/air ratio and ignition advance curve must match the engines displacement and compression ratio, and the intended rpm and intended operational power range.
so many guy fail to understand that concept and as a result install mis-matched components that significantly restrict the power curve and the effective rpm range.
remember its that available torque at a instantly available rpm and how effectively you can access that torque that will allow you to move the car briskly,
the most common mistakes are not selecting the better available , and high flow rate heads that match the engines displacement and intended rpm range and the cam timing, and over camming the engine or not gearing or using the correct stall speed to match the application, is a sure route to reducing the potential performance, potential.



I get lots of guys who have a 307-350-or 383 in their current car that have developed a taste for performance but want something a bit better that the mildly modified engine they currently have,and once you get serious you quickly find that the stock components won,t hold up, or allow you to produce the power levels you really want.
this almost always leads to the purchase of better quality aftermarket components and the frequent use of local machine shops and a rapid education in the costs involved in engine building, followed quickly by drive train and suspension upgrades.
you know I have similar discussions with the guys around here who want to upgrade from their current 383 sbc engines all the time and I usually break out a catalog and a legal pad and start listing a dream sheet with the required components the costs listed, the likely machine work, and by the time we get very far into it it usually becomes rather obvious that we will be some place in the $8K-$12K or higher dollar range by the time we get into a decent dart block,a decent quality forged rotating assembly,then heads from, afr, or brodix ,or profiler heads, and a decent induction system,rockers, etc.dependent of course on what you can use if anything from the current 383 sbc build.
at that point I generally point out that for the cost they can reasonably expect to have built a 505-650 hp engine.
I then point out that in most cases the combo is unlikely to be extremely street drive friendly, and its most likely going to require rear gears and average operational rpm ranges that will not be ideal for long term street use durability.
at that point I generally point out that a big block engine with significantly more displacement can be built for similar cash outlay , that can produce significantly better power per dollar spent.
you might want to read thru these links

http://www.small-block-chevy.com/assemblyspec.html

http://www.brodix.com/uncategorized/ik-dyno

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm
the first few rule's of GRUMPY'S engine assembly

(1) THINK THINGS THROUGH CAREFULLY ,
WRITE DOWN A LIST OF COMPONENTS ,

MAKE DARN SURE THE LIST IS COMPATIBLE WITH,
and AT LEAST SEMI-REASONABLY PRICED WITHIN YOUR BUDGET.
FOR WHAT YOU INTEND TO BUILD AND RESEARCH THE RELATED MACHINE WORK,

RESEARCH CAREFULLY THE COMPONENT INSTALLATION AND INTENDED USE ,
AND POWER BAND THE PARTS WILL REQUIRE

AND FIND AN EXPERIENCED MENTOR.

(2) if in doubt, about how to do anything, on an engine, do some detailed research,
find and compare at least 3-5 valid trust worthy sources info,
read the instructions over again, several time's very carefully
and if available watch several related videos.

(3) if any component will not easily function as designed or requires a good bit of physical force to install ,
or your not 100% sure your doing something CORRECTLY

STOP, FIND OUT EXACTLY HOW THE PARTS SUPPOSED TO FIT AND FUNCTION,& WHY! YOUR HAVING PROBLEMS
theres a reason, and you better verify your clearances are correct , and your following the instructions before you proceed.

(4) never assume the parts you purchased can be used without carefully , cleaning them prior too,
checking the physical condition, verifying clearances and using the correct sealant, lubricants etc.



(5) the quality of a component is generally at least loosely related to the cost to produce it,
and the amount of detailed research and quality machine work that went into its production.
if you got a significant reduced price, theres typically a reason.
it might simply be because a new improved part superseded the one you purchased,
but it might be a far lower quality imported clone with lower quality materials and machine work.
its the purchasers responsibility to research quality.

(6) if you did not do the work personally or at least take the effort to verify it was done correctly and personally verify clearances

ITS almost a sure thing that it was NOT done , correctly, and yes that mandates you fully understand what your looking at,
and how the components are supposed to function and have high quality precision measuring tools.

(7) ITS ALMOST ALWAYS FASTER AND LESS EXPENSIVE , AND PRODUCES BETTER RESULTS IF YOU,
BUY FEWER HIGH QUALITY PARTS & DO THINGS CORRECTLY THE FIRST TIME

ID strongly suggest you keep firmly in mind that doing your math home work and selecting and correctly installing a few high quality well matched components , goes a long way towards building a durable high performance engine and its best to concentrate on maximizing the engines torque curve in the mid rpm range, up to the engines useful rpm red-line, and gearing the drive train to match that intended power band!
If your building a high performance street driven cars engine, ID try hard to build a combo that allows you to stay under about 4200 feet per minute in piston speed, maximizing the engines displacement, getting the dynamic compression close to 8:1 and carefully checking valve train clearances, and geometry.
building an engine with a Quench distance that falls in the .038-.044" range, and matching the cam duration, lift and LSA to the intended power band, and having headers that are designed to amplify cylinder scavenging in that power band, and carefully thinking through and installing a 7-8 quart baffled oil pan and windage screen along with use of high quality bearings, and valve train components, with carefully verified clearances ,goes a long way towards maintaining better long term durability!
YOU'LL tend to get what you pay for! in both parts quality and machine work precision, You'll almost never regret buying and carefully installing a few better quality forged rotating assembly parts or double or triple checking clearances, but you'll frequently wonder "W.T.F. WAS I THINKING"
if you buy cheap components or fail to verify clearances , if your bargain priced parts fail under stress!
do your reading and research home work before you buy parts!
if your not 110% sure of what you need stop and ask questions and get answers from several sources before proceeding on!
think about what your doing before diving in and spending cash!
if a 383 sbc makes 1.2 hp-1.4 per cubic inch of displacement you can expect 460 hp-536hp
if a 540bbc makes 1.2 hp-1.4 per cubic inch of displacement you can expect 648 hp-756hp

READ THROUGH THESE LINK,S
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-a-machine-shop.321/


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...lap-on-factory-headers.3155/page-2#post-66722

HERES A FEW DECENT MAGAZINE BUILDS
SBC
http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles ... 5/A-P1.htm
http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles ... 9/A-P1.htm
http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles ... 8/A-P1.htm
viewtopic.php?f=69&t=4378

BBC
http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles ... /A-P1.html
http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles ... /A-P1.html
http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles ... /A-P1.html
http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles ... 3/A-P1.htm
http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles ... 6/A-P1.htm


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8

87vette81big

Guest
I like the idea of having multiple engines and cars Grumpy.
Build each to meet different needs & requirements.
One has to be a Secret weapon racing machine.
Don't have to follow others leads that way.
Open to Prototype engine builds no one else has or dares to build.
I don't follow.
Do what want.
High octane 110 motor Octane gasoline non blended ran straight.
Static cranking compression ratios & camshafts chosen to deliver 310psi pressure on 2-3rd crank revolution.
 
8

87vette81big

Guest
Makes for a Beast on the street unleashed in my experience.
 

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
one factor in building a performance car, or potential mistake!, Ive seen repeated over and over during my life, and watching my friends build and swap cars over the years, and while enjoying or cussing at times about this rather addictive at times hobby,
or obsession many of us have ,of trying to build or at least own an impressively fast car, is that many guys seem to assume that the only option they have is to start the process,with the car they use for transportation,and while being limited to the original engine, the car they own came with.
when you first start out most guys seem to be unable, to step back mentally and picture clearly what they really want to build and they just seem to concentrate on swapping out a few components.
now there's little doubt you can increase a cars stock level of performance with minor upgrades to those components like swapping to a more performance oriented intake manifold or more aggressive cam, tuned headers,or swapping to a low restriction exhaust or similar parts, but at some point they eventually realize the basic engine compression ratio, displacement and more major components like the block, rotating assembly and cylinder heads are a big limitation, and the more astute thinkers usually realize that there may be a much more effective route to building power or a totally different engine family that can potentially provide a great deal more brute torque or hose power than the stock engine ever can.

example
lets say you start out with a rather typical mid 60s-1980s camaro, nova, dodge dart, mustang or an older muscle car like a chevelle, or GTO.
At first its got rather impressive performance and once you throw a couple hundred or thousand dollars into the engine compartment you arrive at a point where you might have knocked a second or too off the cars original E.T. and added several miles per hour to its 1/4 mile trap speeds.
but at some point you'll look back and if you bothered to keep all the parts costs listed and total them up you-ll usually find you could have built or bought a far more impressive car, with what you've spent at that point.
what Im trying to point out here is that a few days of research and planing can go a long way to reducing mistakes and wasted money, in your quest to build an impressive car. and you might find that building a separate spare performance engine or in many cases a dedicated weekend toy over a longer time frame will result in a much more impressive car that you might eventually build if limited to swapping out parts on that original 307 sbc, or low compression,350 sbc that came in the car.
I don,t know too many guys that stuck with this hobby that would even think about building the car they first started out with in this hobby and even fewer that would select the same engine they started with.
, yes I know your funds are limited and you might not have the skills to do much at first , but if you join several performance car clubs and make the necessary contact youll find you can gain the skills and make better decisions, as to what you want to build and how youll go about it!
When your planing to build a performance car, I've found it helps,
you see progress being made and prevents you from getting discouraged as easily,
if you work on accumulating components for each of the 8 basic sub assemblies,
and checking off your list those components and grouping those on a separate shelf,
as doing so tends to allow you to see more consistent progress,
being made, and you get a feeling your getting someplace.

(1) BLOCK (bearings, freeze plugs main caps and machine work)

(2) ROTATING ASSEMBLY (crank, rods pistons, rings, flywheel,damper etc.)

(3) CYLINDER HEADS and VALVE TRAIN ( valves, valve springs, cam, timing gears, rockers, valve guides, push-rods lifters . etc.)

(4)INDUCTION(manifold, throttle body, sensors, carbs, supercharger, injection , fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator injectors etc.)

(5) DRIVE TRAIN ASSEMBLY COMPONENTS(clutch, stall converter, transmission ETC.)

(6) ignition system (distributor,coils, ignition wires, magneto etc.)

(7) LUBE SYSTEM (oil pan, oil pump, windage tray,oil cooler, ETC.)
these threads and links and sub-links might help

(8) EXHAUST (headers and exhaust system, mufflers ETC.)

A FEW VIDEOS TO HELP YOUR ASSEMBLY






http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1PO26ZqUEs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQhNIiPyTB4

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuj9nfQ-LRY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HrtQVhcTPFc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypQwgm1H2NU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-VwsbEg7Z4I

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcMuttJ9RFc

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grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
reading a few dozen, links and sub links can go a long way to help you figure out what you want to accomplish, and how you might go about doing it efficiently at the lowest cost.
DECIDE what you REALLY WANT and build it, driving a car with a enhanced 383 sbc engine because its what you could afford immediately, when you really REALLY! want a 540 bbc in the car eventually gets VERY DEPRESSING
make the contacts in the hobby, join a few clubs and help others on their projects it always results in your gaining skills and a better understanding of how components fit and function.
yes I know 90% of the people reading this will read at most one or two links, but youll save months of effort and thousands of dollars if you read all the links and sub-links...simply because youll have a better grasp on what your doing and what to avoid doing.
most guys will find buying a decent spare performance engine, part by part and assembling it, having machine work done and researching what they need, slowly over time , and building with exactly the components they want and once its complete spending a weekend swapping engines has huge advantages, one is limited down time and the second is having the option to swap back to the know working dependable stock engine should anything happen to the weekend toys power plant.
now you can swap in some components you might need well before the actual engine upgrade like a bigger radiator, better brakes , etc. but the idea here is not to be in a position where your primary daily transportation's screwed up, and your both broke financially from parts purchases and have to get the car up and running. Its far better to pick a long weekend or a weeks vacation to do the engine swap, then test drive it a few days and not have huge expensive surprises, this route is far better than tearing the engine down, ordering parts or waiting on a machine shop to complete work while your cars not drivable, it also allows you to keep your pride and joy engine and sell the car with its original engine once your tired of the car rather than being forced to take a huge financial hit buy including an engine that the new owner surely won,t pay you full value on when you sell the car, after your done playing with it!

What I like is, building cost effective,easily duplicate-able engines, from off the shelf components if what I need is available, if not I have zero problem fabricating some components or modifying whats available if required,engines that use mostly built from well matched correctly fitted components. I like having total predictable control on a valve train components and long term durability, with low maintenance and in most cases large displacement high compression engine combos
I prefer to keep the piston speeds under 4300feet per minute , and Id prefer to keep the compression as high as I can , simply because its generally going to make for a more responsive combo with higher torque in the useable rpm range.
now in most cases thats engines of 400 cubic inches or larger displacement, and when I can 11:1 or higher compression, so 7000rpm is about where Im comfortable limiting valve train speeds, and I have zero issues building bigger displacement combos that might never see 6500rpm.
given the choice Id gladly give up that last extra 2%-5% of potential horse power in exchange for an added 20%-to-50% greater engine life expectancy, which is in many cases a choice you ARE forced too make
.


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8

87vette81big

Guest
Being a Pontiac, Corvette, and Oldsmobile, Ford, & Mopar Fan I have found only 2 clubs that like me & accept me Grumpy.
The Chi town 5.0 Renegade Ford Mustang Racers.
They ask me how to fix. Go faster.
Your Club here.

I have owned the TA since 1994.
Filling the 18 gallon tank with 110 octane s a pleasure.
Does not bother me.
Have done it many times.

I read many of your links.o
Give me ultumate Race Fast.
Thanks.

BR
.,
 

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
I got asked why I seem to have a marked preference for building big block engines VS the far more common small block,
you really should get these books and read them before going any further, it will help a good deal

While cheat sheets might have frowned upon in your sixth-grade classroom, we strongly encourage them in the garage, shop, or pits. That’s why we’ve put together this list of 13 key performance formulas you should know when building or tuning your street or race vehicle.
you may find this video interesting

http://www.race-cars.net/calculators/compression_calculator.html

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-few-calculator-links.7108/#post-27382

http://www.projectpontiac.com/ppsite15/compression-ratio-calculator

http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/comprAdvHD.htm

http://performancetrends.com/Compression_Ratio_Calculator_V2.3.htm

http://www.wallaceracing.com/cr_test2.php

http://www.pcengines.com.au/calculators/Calculate dynamic Comp Ratio.htm

http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html

http://www.diamondracing.net/tools/

https://www.uempistons.com/index.php?main_page=calculators&type=comp

https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html

Racing Carburetor CFM
Racing Carburetor CFM = RPM x Displacement ÷ 3456 x 1.1
Note: Summit Racing also offers this CFM Calculator to make the job easier.

Displacement
Displacement = .7854 x Bore2 x Stroke x Number of Cylinders

Correct Compression Ratio (CCR)
CCR = FCR (Altitude/1,000) x .2
Note: You can also take this Compression Ratio Calculator tool for a spin.

Tire Diameter
Tire Diameter = (MPH x Gear Ratio x 336) ÷ RPM

Rocker Arm Ratio and Valve Lift
Gross Valve Lift = Camshaft Lobe Lift x Rocker Arm Ratio

Horsepower
Horsepower = (RPM x Torque) ÷ 5,252

Torque
Torque = (5,252 x HP) ÷ RPM

Rod Ratio
Rod Ratio = Rod Length ÷ Crank Stroke Length

Average Piston Speed
Average Piston Speed = Crank Stroke x RPM ÷ 6

Rear Gear Ratio
Rear Gear Ratio = (RPM at Finish Line x Tire Diameter) ÷ (MPH x 336)
Note: You can also save this link to a handy Gear Ratio calculator.

Volume (CCs) of Deck Clearance
CCs of Deck Clearance = Bore x Bore x 12.87 x Depth of Deck Clearance

Volume (CCs) of Head Gasket
CCs of Head Gasket = Bore x Bore x 12.87 x Thickness of Head Gasket
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/A...5079777/sr=2-1/ref=sr_2_1/102-1234339-0571324

1557882169.01._PE30_PIdp-schmooS,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...gy_img_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books

0912656042.01._PE30_PIdp-schmooS,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg


http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...gy_img_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books

0895861755.01._PE30_PIdp-schmooS,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t..._books_1/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books

1884089208.01._PE30_PIdp-schmoo2,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t..._books_3/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books
1557883572.01._PE30_PIdp-schmoo2,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...f=sr_1_2/102-1234339-0571324?v=glance&s=books
0760302030.01._PE_PIdp-schmoo2,TopRight,7,-26_SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

https://hhclassic.com/i-16100169-ho...MIjoSH0qmt7wIVxFPVCh0IVg9YEAQYByABEgIOf_D_BwE
INVESTING THE TIME AND EFFORT IN PURCHASING AND READING A FEW BOOKS WILL BE VERY COST EFFECTIVE
bbcbl1.jpg

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bbcbl7.jpg

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http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/en ... ine-block/
"

SMALL BLOCK REFERENCE BOOKS YOULL WANT
start by buying these books and watching the video

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/resmchstvi.html
chevystep.jpg


maxperf.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/David-Vizards...8&qid=1456194032&sr=8-5&keywords=DAVID+VIZARD
HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE CHEVY SMALL BLOCKS ON A BUDGET by DAVID VIZARD
.
johnl.jpg

JOHN LINGENFELTER on modifying small-block chevy engines
http://www.amazon.com/Lingenfelter-...=1456193940&sr=8-1&keywords=JOHN+LINGENFELTER

smokeyy.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/Smokey-Yunick...2&sr=8-1&keywords=smokey+yunick+power+secrets


jenkinsrace.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/Chevrolet-Rac...ords=The-Chevrolet-Racing-Engine-Bill-Jenkins


think of it this way, your average street driven performance engine designed to run pump octane fuel will produce about 1.1-1.2 hp and about 1.2 ft lbs of torque per cubic inch of displacement, if you select a reasonable list of components.
yeah! we know you can exceed that power, but on average thats a reasonable expectation.

so lets say you build a 383 SBC vs a 496 BBC

lets assume 1.2 as a factor for both, ignoring the fact the BBC has far better flowing heads and stronger parts

383 x 1.2= 459 hp/tq
496 x 1.2 =595 hp/tq
but you say what about the BBC weight? well its usually about 100 lbs heavier, so lets look at that factor

your average corvette or camaro probably weights 3300 lbs MINIMUM

if we divide 3300 lbs by 459 hp we get 7.19 lbs per hp with that 383

if we divide 3400 lbs by 595 hp we get 5.71 lbs per hp with that 496 BBC

if we assume 20% less rear wheel hp, the 496 BBC makes 476hp and easily runs mid to low 11 second times if properly set up and tuned

POWER TO WEIGHT CALCULATIONS
http://vexer.com/automotive-tools/1-4-mile-ET-HP-MPH-calculator

http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php

https://robrobinette.com/et.htm

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...d-what-goes-in-the-dumpster.13135/#post-68515

http://www.ajdesigner.com/fl_horsepower_elapsed_time/horsepower_elapsed_time.php

http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/03/power-to-weight-ratio/


http://www.race-cars.net/calculators/et_calculator.html


if we assume 20% less rear wheel hp, the 383 makes 367hp and easily runs mid to low 12 second times if properly set up and tuned


you don,t need to get exotic for decent street performance, theres dozens of potential choices, but Id certainly think seriously about a big block with 480 plus cubic inches
and yes as usual reading the links and sub links will provide you with a ton of additional related info
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-for-truck-build-sbc-engine.12050/#post-57645

http://www.chevrolet.com/performance/crate-engines/big-block-502-ho.html

http://www.vortecproperformance.com/engine_combinations.html

http://www.ohiocrank.com/enginespage1.html

http://www.herbertcams.com/dhp-482-new-custom-big-block-stroker-engine-600-hp/

http://www.proformanceunlimited.com/spe ... roker.html

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ccrp-1209-eight-budget-sbc-head-shootout/

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=5123

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=8383

http://www.westcoastengines.com/383-stroker/

yes its true that you can generally build a SBC engine for less money,
but once your done
WILL YOU BE HAPPY WATCHING THE TAIL LIGHTS OF THE GUYS THAT WENT THE BIG BLOCK ROUTE?
yes theres plenty of fast SBC cars , but its POWER TO WEIGHT that mostly determines your potential, and as long as the cars are fairly heavy the BBC has advantages

you tend to have to watch a couple dozen guys assemble engines and, do it while you pay real attention, and/ or
watch several dozen similar videos to get that perspective and pick up the little differences and omissions in how each guy approaches and completes the process.
yes youll undoubtedly see some guys skip over or ignore things that other guys feel are critical, but if you pay attention and really think things through and stop and ask your self
(why is that guy bothering to take the time to bevel that bearing edge)
or
(why is that guy verifying the oil pump stud does NOT touch the rear main cap bearing shell)
, or
(what the hell is a thrust bearing?)
(what was the oil pump drive shaft to distributor gear clearance?)
(what were those rod and main bearing clearances?)
(how did he verify the piston to bore clearance?)
(how do you verify rod bolt clamp or stretch?)
(how do you get the damn damper on)
(what the hell is quench)
(compression height?)
(maximizing ring seal to bore)
(what do you mean don,t beat on that damper?)


engine assembly is mostly the hard logical application of physical science with a bit of intuition, where the engine assembly technician and engineering testing is used to verify exactly what is and what is not functioning as its intended too.
the fact is that the engineers and computer simulations can get things about 80% -to-85% to being as close to ideal, but the fact is the guys that control production costs and emission controls will always have some input and the production engineers will make cost reducing changes in the designs, the individual engine builder will get their hands on the O.E.M., engines and find ways to TWEAK, the as delivered engines to produce even better results, then the aftermarket will take a long hard look and start figuring out ways that they could further boost power with less concern for cost and emissions and a bit more concern for power output, then the engine builders will take those parts and TWEAK those parts and the cycle will continue several times until the original engines design has markedly been improved.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-clearances.2726/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tion-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/causes-of-bearing-failure.2727/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-install-tips.3449/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-52466

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/can-i-get-it-polished.9214/#post-33116

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-balancing.3900/#post-28672

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...uring-crank-bearing-journals.5478/#post-16429

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/types-of-crankshaft-steel.204/#post-15727

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-oil-feed-holes-in-cranks.4419/#post-11685

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-t-anyone-ever-ask-or-check.11532/#post-53260

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-and-basic-piston-ring-info-youll-need.509/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-rings-in-piston-grooves.9490/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/piston-to-bore-clearance.4630/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/don-t-beat-that-damper.83/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/can-you-plan-for-quench.11298/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-crush.10213/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...guess-on-clearances-and-journal-surface.9955/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-piston-ring-grooves-and-related-info.1797/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-piston-pin-height-compression-height.5064/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/maximizing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/
 
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