wheel hub replaced

Grumpy

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
So in my previous post I stated that I was hearing something rotating from the inside of the car, while I was driving. Every time I slowed down, the sound would slow down. (A rotating sound ) I figured it was bearing!

I got it checked, and BAM it was the bearings and wheel hub on the right rear tire!
so I had my new mechanic fix that and checked all tires! Luckily I only had to change one wheel hub


So the total price for the change out was

$ 299.31 for the wheel bearing and hub assembly

And

$ 119.0 for the labor
Part : Rw20-86
Click to expand...


you may want to price name brand replacement bearings and u-joints at several on-line sources and look into DIY videos
while your there CHECK out the brakes, pads, rotors calipers.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet



http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/under-car-safety.26/
vettejack1.jpg

If one rear wheel bearing wore out, its time for putting the corvette up on jack stands or a lift, and careful disassembly ,
of the related drive train and suspension, bearings, too carefully inspect,
repack or replace the other three wheel bearings and replace all six u-joints,

logically the components have all traveled the same distance, if they are all original components thus have similar wear induced
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...d-you-replace-all-6-u-joints.9236/#post-80097
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/rear-hub-c4-corvette-replacement.10263/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/wheel-bearing-replacement.3128/


yes it sucks and its more work, yes it costs more money,
but doing maintenance now
sure beats the crap out of loosing some critical component under stress at speed
where it at best leaves you stranded in the boondocks,
or at worst causes a serious accident.

youll occasionally see someone post a maintenance schedule that suggests component replacement at (XYZ ) mileage,
stress is cumulative and the way you drive has a huge effect on component wear,
you might find a buddies corvette has good looking u-joints at 100K miles
(they should be replaced at 100K just for peace of mind)
and yes you might find your on your third complete set already replaced,
at 130K,
BRAKES ,should also be inspected every few months or every 15K miles,
yes it sucks and its more work, yes it costs more money,
its still preferable over a major un-expected drive train,
or suspension component failing.while your at speed.
 
Last edited:
On the C4 Corvette, there are several maintenance items which should be attended to on a regular basis.
The items are cumulative meaning the frequent items are also done,
whenever the less frequent items are attended to.
Every 300 miles or every week (whichever comes first):
Check Engine Oil level
Check Brake and Power Steering Fluid levels
Check Engine Coolant level
Check Windshield Washer Fluid level
Check Tire Pressures and Condition of tires
Every 3000 miles of every 3 months (whichever comes first):
All of the above plus:
Check Automatic Transmission Fluid level
Inspect the Engine Hoses
Inspect the Windshield Wiper Blades
Every 7500 miles or once a year (whichever comes first):
All of the above plus:
Change Engine Oil & Oil Filter
Lubricate Chassis and Top Off all fluids
Inspect Exhaust, Suspension, Brakes and Steering components
Replace Fuel Filter and Air filter
Replace PCV valve
Rotate Tires
Check Manual Transmission and Overdrive Oil levels
Check Rear Axle Oil levels
Check Throttle Linkage and Throttle Position Sensor setting
Check Serpentine Belt, Replace if Frayed or cracked
Check Spare tire

Every 30,000 miles or every 24 months (whichever comes first):
All of the above plus:
Change Automatic Transmission Fluid and filter
If Manual Transmission, Change Overdrive Fluid
Drain, Flush and Refill Cooling system
Inspect Evaporative Emissions system
Replace Spark Plugs
Inspect Plug wires, Distributor and Rotor
Check Timing and Adjust as required
Check Shock Absorbers for leakage
Every 100,000 miles or 6 years (whichever comes first):
Perform ALL of the above steps plus:
Inspect Steering System wear indicators
Inspect Exhaust Manifold for cracks
Check Compression of all cylinders
Check Fuel Flow and pressure
Replace MAF Power and Burn off relays (1985-1989 L-98)
Inspect Chassis for Corrosion and/or rust
Routine Maintenance Part Numbers (L-83 & L-98 engine):
Item Model - Year- Part Number:
Spark Plug 1984 AC R45TS
Spark Plug Cast Iron Heads 85-87 AC R43CTS
Spark Plug Alum Heads 87-91 AC FR5LS
Oil Filter 1984-1991 AC PF25
Air Filter 1984 AC A862C
Air Filter 1985-1991 AC A917C
PCV Valve 1984 AC CV853C
PCV Valve 1985-1991 AC CV774C
Engine Oil 1984-1991 SAE SF, SF/CC, SF/CD
Auto Trans Fluid All Dexron II, IIE, III (ATF)
Manual Trans Fluid Four Speed SAE 80 Gear Lube
Manual Trans Fluid Six Speed GM P/N 1052931
Overdrive Unit All Dexron II ATF Fluid
Differential All SAE80W or 80-90W GL-5 lubricant w/ GM limited slip additive
Coolant All Water and Ethylene to at least 20 below zero F
Brake Fluid All DOT Type 3
Clutch Fluid All Manual Trans DOT Type 3
Power Steering Fluid All GM Power Steering Fluid
Chassis Lubrication All Lithium Base Chassis Grease
Capacities:
Engine Oil 5 Quarts
Cooling System 14 Quarts (1984-1990)
Automatic Transmission 4.5 quarts
6 Speed Manual Transmission 4.4 Pints
 
Nice checklist Grumpy.

C4 Corvettes do not rust.
Non Issue.
What is steel is galvanized steel and then painted.
All fasteners are thick cadium plated too.
 
Cooling system flush Grumpy.
Should be done every 2 years.
Prestone regular Green antifreeze you buy now is supposed to last 5 years.
Noticed it breakdown on 5th year in my 87 Vette.
Cleaned it all out with Evapo Rust Thermal cure. Great stuff.
Prestone back in .

May switch try Diesel Truck Shell Rotella Antifreeze this fall in all the cars & trucks.
Stuff is superior to any auto anti freeze I have seen.
Cost about the same.

Evans still too expensive.
Spring a leak there is $200-500 bucks on the ground.
Junk & money gone for good.
 
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