which torque wrench

grumpyvette

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
these look great, and theres little doubt they are a quality tool.
keep in mind the purpose of a torque wrench, its designed to allow you to tighten bolts to a known and consistent and repeatable or duplicate-able level, that insures the bolt or fastened applies a consistent predictable clamping force ...when you fail to clean the threads surfaces on the fastener or the block, your using those fasteners on, or you fail to use the suggested lubricants or sealants on the threads your effectively changing that resulting intended clamping force.
failure to read the directions or randomly changing the sealants or improper use of the torque wrench WILL result in a different clamping force being applied
you'll occasionally see places like NORTHERN TOOL,AND HARBOR FREIGHT, sell click style torque wrenches for $15-$20,
I would not suggest spending money on a HF, or similar dirt cheap torque wrench, simply because, as with most precision tools you tend to get what you pay for to a great degree!
Ive personally tested several against the much more expensive torque wrenches I own,Ive got a large drawer in my tool chest with at least 9 torque wrenches (sears,husky, CDI,SNAP-ON ) plus the fact that the HF sells for less than 7% of the cost, do you really think they can sell a tool for 7%-10% of the cost of what other places charge and have comparable quality and durability/accuracy/
of even the mid priced torque wrenches, cost $80-$180 each that fact alone should, obviously be telling you that theres some reason they are dirt cheap, quality,durability and precision in a tool, or component is rarely dirt cheap yes I own a HF 3/8" drive inch lb torque wrench I bought just to test it against several others , and its not as bad as I expected, but certainly not as consistent as several others I own

1: http://www.emaxaction.com/cdi1503mfrmh.aspx
2: http://www.toolsource.com/torque-wrench-microadj-metal-handle-20150-ftlbs-plain-head-p-95221.html

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tion-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/

http://www.eaglerod.com/mosmodule/bolt_torque.html
454-502-BBC-4-Bolt-Main-Caps.jpg

CONSISTENCY and REPEATABILITY ,rather than exact torque, is the key, if your off a ft lb its not catastrophic.
Ive used both a SEARS and a HOME DEPOT TQ Wrenches FOR MANY YEARS. built over 150 engines and had zero problems

consistent technique and consistency in the way you lube and work the torque loads up in stages and having the bolts and studs lubed and cycling, the bolt/stud up to the recommended torque and loosening it and repeating that process several times tends too give much more consistent clamping load results, AND ITS A GOOD IDEA TOO USE ARP FASTENERS




HARDENED washers DESIGNED FOR USE WITH MATCHING ARP HEAD BOLTS under the head bolt heads are ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA, they reduce friction and gauling and spread the clamp loads and tend to make the torque readings far more consistent, especially on aluminum heads and when the correct lubricants are used , use of standard soft iron washers or lock washers are a bad idea
2451-KIT_Head.jpg

threadchaser.jpg

cleaning threads before assembly is always a good idea
rodboltstretcha.jpg

check manufactures tech guide info
StretchPreload.gif

having consistent clamp loads are mandatory for proper assembly

THIS BEAM STYLE TORQUE WRENCH<IS THE TYPE TORQUE WRENCH YOU WANT TO CHECK ROTATIONAL RESISTANCE

BUT NOT WHAT YOULL USE TO TIGHTEN HEAD BOLTS

beam_torque_wrench.jpg


that's why you'll need a torque beam deflection torque wrench to check the resistance to rotation during short block assembly
beam_torque_wrench.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Presa-Drive-...ocphy=9012039&hvtargid=pla-669567243785&psc=1

read the labels and load rates carefully before ordering they make inch lb, ft lb versions
1/4",
3/8"
and 1/2"
drive versions
and having an inch lb rated one helps at times $25 on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03727A...ocphy=9012039&hvtargid=pla-572951906812&psc=1

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224242691491?epid=23014633155&_trkparms=ispr=1&hash=item3435e7eda3:g:sBkAAOSw5MFfuDZS&amdata=enc:AQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSvtkx670Z0mbyfWqmxLFLYbSgftsPKn4P4%2BuyGMgnhW%2FjIce0dpW9M3RoBZspmh1OP12%2B1VAxoUJJj3RoXfTi%2BdPDYwWVpZhnEHOtxRJrO9BgZbW7EgR6P7ToLFxxssR3y9JK0MrcC1gFkn3SW32QlRm1jVDvf75zsqK4K6a3ZYjn8qwXzUYq6h4garZZxJfbfur3C7bxYsXM6Kd0RP%2Bc1qcqgfVJHBlQgVk4udvEWA36jrjTVJl5%2BCY4o1Ivq4bl7iQqsi7Hf9CMDhs1uIRQNOVZaGYqWg9k4J0UBWdzz8l8X%2FOqd9t3DRpXca5J9mjp65pFUANhTN3TfDEtTpSfCkWmlHnqMmYCOvLSwvD1QZMXkSF0aOKRqnGjBtvV0xFal9s9EMVlX8gRTesUivsA%2FodQ%2FlEYPwFdqVXGP1WdDLW4J90gTGRKzasKw%2FOHt7XrubOgzy515noBgagP9s2M1iGfVGLK2dXotGyaTVcSbvCHNSmbSUvaKVX7Jm7hgX3UZIvrnEYFwbpAec4a0%2BqRPqov5SRFpkQ0DGE9tAvXszC8xwzF9%2F%2FxSK%2FPmvpoJ%2FxGmwoio1ZR88UMdq6GHkjzFQIpQE946bHSep0BzmPBPXyILyvAcxWgs1vPcytjTHBLwAMI0lLADbjgWGGJUMAl8nR2wLczSCeJC7Sd5lIfZ%2FPNxz8aB0qf73TtmocTHjhkcVWW3C0bmckieELPrUXPfLp6ltQmqHsGXDFoITaQRs0mPFQ4TRBoUyYcGtfrS8V8XHcQ0TZtCtqoni0tUGwbdHFKQGYpD%2FFFTpEYitoFjODdATrumb5yl7bb5fAiIRVou6oUBD75feDSqdDpB7G23g%3D%3D|ampid:pL_CLK|clp:2334524

61nLj3Ru3bL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


I generally use CLEVITE (H) bearings as they have a bit more edge to crank journal edge radias clearance for the bearing shell to crank counter weight clearances
With the crank shaft alone in the main bearings, any inconsistency in the assembly lube thickness, or journal surface finish could and probably will cause a difference in rotational resistance or drag, if it spins fairly easily with a couple fingers on the crank snout with all the mains torqued down and your plastic-gauge checks and micrometers say the bearing clearances are correct your going to be fine, I generally look to have less than 5 ft lbs resistance , on keeping it rotating, once it starts to move, a properly installed strait crank in a properly honed set of main caps with properly clearances main cap bearings well coated with a 50%/50% mix of assembly lube and marvel mystery oil on the bearing crank surfaces and less than 10 lbs to get it to start rotating as the surface tension of most assembly lubes will resist rotation until it starts to rotate, then the resistance to rotation drops off rapidly,
on a newly rebuilt engine the SHORT BLOCK (no heads installed) and with the bearings and cylinder bores oil coated, it should require LESS than 40ft lbs to get rotating and less to keep it rotating, a crank ALONE installed in the correctly tightened main caps should require LESS than 10 lbs to start rotating and far less to keep spinning.
a used engine will develop a bit looser clearances and require LESS force to rotate after the heads are removed.
on a racing engine the crank alone can easily be spun in the main bearings with your fingers and over about 25-28 lbs resistance when using low drag rings usually indicates a problem
a used engine will develop a bit looser clearances and require LESS force to rotate after the heads are removed.


yes having an accurate torque wrench is mandatory when you build an engine, yes having the piston to bore clearance, ring end gap and bearing clearances correct helps a great deal, and yes low tension rings DO tend to reduce the resistance to rotation, and yes, some assembly lubes DO make the engine a bit harder to start the rotation.
obviously a slightly bent crank, inconsistent bearing clearances, non-round crank journals , rough polish surfaces on journals or a block that needs to be line honed or a bent cam or tight cam bearing journals or improper bearing clearance or dry bearing surfaces tend to increase resistance.
IF your engine resists rotation to a higher torque load rate
FIND OUT WHATS BINDING BEFORE PROCEEDING FURTHER, you sure won,t be the first guy to have installed something incorrectly or had the wrong clearance's but catch it BEFORE proceeding further
youll need a good quality torque wrench
torquewrench.png

and a torque angle gauge
41M70Tl7tKL.jpg

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-4554

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-25424?rrec=true

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in...MI7pzMt5-Z6QIVSrzACh3a5ABmEAQYASABEgIDiPD_BwE

the new ICON line looks decent
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-50-250-ft-lb-professional-torque-wrench-64064.html


https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7768041



HUSKY $88 (worked rather well, over all I was pleased)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-2-in-Click-Torque-Wrench-H2DTW/202916180?N=5yc1vZc6ev


http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100058237

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...s&cName=Mechanics+Tools&sName=Torque+Wrenches

btw rod bolts SHOULD have a stretch gauge used but its not 100% mandatory, cycling them up to spec and releasing the tq then repeating several times with a tq wrench, following the APR instructions gets you very consistent results IVE checked the tq wrench results with the stretch gauge

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ARP-100-9942&N=700+115&autoview=sku

lets assume your looking for a 3/8" drive inch lb torque wrench to tighten little things like intake bolts, logic should tell you that a decent quality tool will not be dirt cheap, and that you don,t need the best available tool for that use so you start pricing your options
the whole OBJECT of you using a torque wrench is to allow you to maintain consistent TORQUE values, do you really think the HF torque wrench will be consistent, when most other sources what 4-5 times as much, think it thru, obviously you don,t need a lab quality tool, but the cheapest option is not likely to be a rational choice either.


harbor freight ($15)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... number=807

home depot ($74)
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1 ... ogId=10053

sears($69)
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... que+wrench

tool source ($57)
http://www.toolsource.com/torque-wrench ... 5_778.html


GOOD QUALITY ($225)
http://www.toolsource.com/dial-dual-sca ... 94631.html

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... P2078_____ ($360)

http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/torque-wrench/

WATCH THIS VIDEO
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgwwOJ0B ... r_embedded
NEVER USE A TORQUE WRENCH LIKE A BREAKER BAR TO LOOSEN BOLTS as it TENDS TO QUICKLY DESTROY ITS ACCURACY & consistency

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgwwOJ0B ... r_embedded

http://www.eaglerod.com/mosmodule/bolt_torque.html


http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-i ... h-239.html


common, and reasonably accurate
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 944593000P

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1 ... ogId=10053


better
http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... E4Q8wIwAw#

much better
https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Torque-2...ra_a_rv_mr_ho_xx_P1400_1000&tag=dradisplay-20

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 0001&aff=Y

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... ir=catalog

Id point out that a bit of thought as to the direction of forces when your torquing your main caps or trying to rotate your engine location will help a great deal, ESPECIALLY WITH THE SMALLER BASE ENGINE STAND DESIGNS
more than one guy has failed to pay attention to that and placed a good deal of force on the end of a torque wrench or breaker bar and flipped the engine, off balance.....trust me when I say your first instinct is to try and catch or push the engine back as it falls and you are not going to win that contest....if 600-800lb of engines headed to the floor you better NOT get in the way, so its best to use a very stable wide base engine stand and pay attention to keeping forces along the engine block center-line.
torqueingr.jpg


this picture (above) tends to make me think this guys NOT thinking that factor thru, moving the handle, on the torque wrench 90 degrees , so hes pulling it inline parallel to the crank center line, rather than at right angles too it, and if possible toward the engine stand base, support, .could lower the engines tendency to tip.
viewtopic.php?f=99&t=3511
enginerebuild109.JPG

enginerebuild111.JPG

sbchvy_head_seq.gif

SBC HEADS
head_bolt_gm_sequence_3x5.jpg

Big Chevy
if you don,t have a particular engines torque sequence its a safe bet that you start with the center head bolts and tighten each , in stages in a spiral outward pattern, then repeat the sequence with each increased torque setting moving in that same outward expanding spiral increasing diam spiral moving from the center to outer bolt locations.
Spiral%20Diagram%20GT.jpg

dip the head bolt threads in sealant before installation to prevent coolant leaks
80057.jpg

80063.jpg


http://arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_installation.shtml
 
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just a bit of info, most click type torque wrenches are advertized as being accurate to within 2%-3%, so if the engine spec sheet calls for head bolts to be tightened to 65 ft lbs your torque wrench should be more than capable of consistently giving you a reading within 2-3 ft lbs of the value and while its true torque might be slightly off it will be very close, and if its higher or lower , but consistently so, it won,t make much difference on most engine head bolts.
I happen to have these three 1/2' drive torque wrench,s available to to test with and torque head bolts so just as a test , I torqued the head bolts in several stages and took a few notes while testing , I first set all the torque wrenchs at 30ft lbs,then tightened 3 head bolts with each wrench, then rotated thru each tool re-tightening ,each bolt previously tightened with the other tools or effectively cross checking with each of the other two tools, for consistency and any differences, then repeated at 45 ft lbs and at 60 ft lbs , each time checking..then went back at each torque level and rechecked every bolt.
the result was rather interesting.
the HF wrench as would probably be expected was not all that consistent, some times it tightened a bit more (30ft lbs) usually a bit less than the other two
the sears and HUSKY both proved rather more consistent and there was zero doubt the HUSKY torque wrench was both easier to set and use and far less likely to have the setting change during use than the sear torque wrench.
Now to be fair Ive had the sears torque wrench for several more years than the HUSKY torque wrench, and I purchased the HF just to experiment with.
the result was that the HUSKY torque wrench was both more consistent, repeatable and easier to use!
read the factory shop manual or connecting rod manufacturers info VERY carefully...FT LBS AND NM ARE NOT THE SAME
http://www.kylesconverter.com/torque/newton-meters-to-foot--pounds-force

torquewrench.png

HUSKY $88 (worked rather well, over all I was pleased)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-2-in-Click-Torque-Wrench-H2DTW/202916180?N=5yc1vZc6ev

SEARs $50( (still worked decently even after 10 years in service, but Id suggest buying the HUSKY)
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-micro-cl ... eviewsWrap

HARBOR FREIGHT $20(better than no torque wrench, but didn,t match the other two)
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-i ... h-239.html

heres a wide selection

Micro Adjustable

www.protorquetools.com www.protorquetools.com
 
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just a bit of info, most click type torque wrenches are advertized as being accurate to within 2%-3%, so if the engine spec sheet calls for head bolts to be tightened to 65 ft lbs your torque wrench should be more than capable of consistently giving you a reading within 2-3 ft lbs of the value and while its true torque might be slightly off it will be very close, and if its higher or lower , but consistently so, it won,t make much difference on most engine head bolts.
I started a minor project requiring me to instal some cylinder heads on a big block chevy, so before I started I called a neighbor over who has a certified torque wrench,he has checked very frequently at his employer, to ask if I could borrow his as a cross check, just to check the results vs my three current torque wrenches, just because I was in no rush and rather curious.
I happen to have these three 1/2' drive torque wrench,s available to to test with and torque head bolts so just as a test , I torqued the head bolts in several stages and took a few notes while testing , I first set all the torque wrenches at 30ft lbs,then tightened 3 head bolts with each wrench, then rotated thru each tool re-tightening ,each bolt previously tightened with the other tools or effectively cross checking with each of the other two tools, for consistency and any differences, then repeated at 45 ft lbs and at 60 ft lbs , each time checking..then went back at each torque level and rechecked every bolt.
the result was rather interesting.
the HF wrench as would probably be expected was not all that consistent, some times it tightened a bit more (30ft lbs) usually a bit less than the other two
the sears and HUSKY both proved rather more consistent and there was zero doubt the HUSKY torque wrench was both easier to set and use and far less likely to have the setting change during use than the sear torque wrench.
Now to be fair Ive had the sears torque wrench for several more years than the HUSKY torque wrench, and I purchased the HF just to experiment with.
the result was that the HUSKY torque wrench was both more consistent, repeatable and easier to use!
RELATED THREADs
viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1222

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=6931

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=50&p=12528&hilit=leak+studs#p12528

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-50-250-ft-lb-professional-torque-wrench-64064.html

HUSKY $79 (worked rather well, over all I was pleased)
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R ... reId=10051

SEARs $50( (still worked decently even after 10 years in service, but Id suggest buying the HUSKY)
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-micro-cl ... eviewsWrap

precision tools (good reputation) $170
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=PREC3R250F

HARBOR FREIGHT $20(better than no torque wrench, but didn,t match the other three, and it won,t be accurate)
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-half-i ... h-239.html

the new ICON line looks decent
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-50-250-ft-lb-professional-torque-wrench-64064.html

after I got done checking, I called my friend who owns that $300 certified torque wrench, on the next block over he uses at work rather frequently that I know he has had tested for consistency,recently, that I used just to check against my torque wrenches, I told him I was pleasantly surprised, the results showed my husky and sears torque wrenches were within a single ft lb of the reading his wrench got.(I also told him Id be right over to return his wrench!)
that was with the bolt threads dipped in sealant and the heads and washers dipped in ARP lube, installed in clean block threads with the bolts previously carefully cleaned with carburetor cleaner and a power wire brush removing any previous crud fro the threads,then degreased

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/gearwrench-e ... 315801209P
 
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NEVER USE a torque wrench AS A SUBSTITUTE FOR A BRAKER BAR
When using the "click" type torque wrench always release the spring pressure after each use.
REMEMBER TO USE PLASTI GAUGE AS A BACK-UP CROSS CHECK ON CLEARANCE CHECKING
youll generally need three torque wrenches and two of them can be purchased dirt cheap,
youll want one of the 1/4" drive HF inch lb versions (about $20)
youll want one of the sears beam style for checking rotational resistance
(ABOUT $30)
youll want one of the sears, husky or snap-on adjustable clicker style
THIS NEEDS TO BE REASONABLE QUALITY SO DON,T THINK OF GETTING A HF,
( A DECENT CLICKER STYLE LIKE the sears, husky or snap-on adjustable clicker style WILL COST BETWEEN $85-$170)
THIS BEAM STYLE TORQUE WRENCH IS THE TYPE TORQUE WRENCH YOU WANT TO CHECK ROTATIONAL RESISTANCE, these come in at least three torque ranges
for checking the rotational resistance you'll want the lower rated version, that reads 0-75 ft lbs or in inch lbs
spin_prod.jpg

BUT NOT WHAT YOULL USE TO TIGHTEN HEAD BOLTS
youll need one decent click style
https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-C...rue&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
the new ICON line looks decent
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-50-250-ft-lb-professional-torque-wrench-64064.html
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-5...s-1-2-in-Drive-Torque-Wrench-H2DTWA/205914009
THE SNAP-ON at $170 is a bit pricey but I feel its not over priced, if you can afford one
https://www.amazon.com/50-250-Pound...-spons&keywords=husky+torque+wrench+1+2&psc=1

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200621085_200621085?utm_source=google_PPC&utm_medium=Dynamic+Search+Ads+Test&utm_campaign=DSA&utm_content=_cat:hand tools/wrenches&mkwid=s9sKUTP7h&pcrid=81459275831&mtype=b&devicetype=c&storeId=6970&langId=-1&type=search&gclid=CJ-Yw9eYis4CFYqDfgodpksLtg


tqw1.jpg

THE HUSKY IS A GOOD VALUE at $85
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-50-250-ft-lbs-1-2-in-Drive-Torque-Wrench-H2DTWA/205914009?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|G|0|G-BASE-PLA-D25T-HandTools|&gclid=CLSPnvuYis4CFUqRfgod76UDKw&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Torque-2...ra_a_rv_mr_ho_xx_P1400_1000&tag=dradisplay-20

no you don,t want to waste money on a cheap HF torque wrench if your serious about accuracy, and no torque wrench should ever be left at over 10% of its max setting or used as a braker bar.
now I will point out that the 3/8" and 1/4" drive HARBOR FREIGHT torque wrenches do seem to work reasonably well and accurately if used for applications under about 40 ft lbs and when used for inch lbs bolt applications

http://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-61277.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-61276.html
https://www.felpro.com/parts/engine-repair/head-bolt-sets.html
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ttoy1.png


ttoy3.png


13cal.jpg

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additional-how-to/ccrp-1304-torque-wrench-testing/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bolts-a-bit-of-useful-info.4868/#post-13372

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/snap-on-torque-wrenches.15688/#post-93932
http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-instruments-c3fr250f.aspx

http://www.toolup.com/Proto-J6014CX...t-Lb-Ratcheting-Head-Micrometer-Torque-Wrench

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-50-250-ft-lbs-1-2-in-Drive-Torque-Wrench-H2DTWA/205914009
I've used both a sears and husky 1/2" torque wrench for decades, Ive had it re-checked three times and its stayed consistent.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-micro-clicker-torque-wrench-1-2inch-drive/p-00931425000P

keep in mind its a good idea to check your torque wrench for accuracy,
having two, so you can check them against each other may not be a true test,
but it will rather rapidly let you know if one has changed accuracy.
I can tell you from experience that the more expensive torque wrenches while slightly more consistent are not always the most accurate, but Ill also point out that for the home hobby engine builder being off a lb or two, from the listed torque settings, on main cap bolts, or rod bolts, is unlikely to be a big issue.
remember just changing the oil or grease or sealant on a bolt threads will change the result

of course the proper way to tighten ARP rod bolts is with a accurate stretch gauge, but again, you really won,t be that far off if you carefully use a decent quality torque wrench and go back over each rod bolt at least twice for that final torque setting, (obviously looking up the proper lubricants , torque settings and bolt stretch length won,t hurt either)

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/torque-specs-calculator-links-etc.1222/
be aware there are counterfeit ARP bolts for sale

https://www.thecounterfeitreport.com/product/486/Bolts.html
arpcon1.png

arpcon2.png

p117194_image_large.jpg

arp-100-9942_w.jpg

rodstretch1.jpg

DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR AND READ THROUGH ALL THE LINKS

bbctqsp.png

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tion-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tion-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/assembly-lube-summary.6352/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/rotating-assembly-bearings.9527/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/rod-bolts-rpm-vs-stress.341/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/measuring-crank-bearing-journals.5478/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ue-specs-calculator-links-etc.1222/#post-6018

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearing-install-tips.3449/


 
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well worth watching this harbor freight /icon.... vs snap-on torque wrench testing

Ive had a CRAFTSMAN, HUSKY, SNAP-ON torque wrenches, for several decades
Ive occasionally had the opportunity to test them or get one or two re-calibrated,
most of the time they were still well in spec.
(I used too have contacts at a dealership that had calibration equipment,
until just recently when the ownership changed)
as long as you never use one as a breaker bar
or leave it set for more than about 40 lbs in storage,
I have not seen them loose calibration, and I use mine far more than most people
my sears 1/2" torque wrench is at least 45 years old and its still consistent
I would avoid the $30 HF torque wrench but the ICON version that sells for $90 is decent



related threads

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/which-torque-wrench.342/#post-87029

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-50-250-ft-lb-Professional-Torque-Wrench-64064.html

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/rod-bolt-mics-stretch-gauges.989/#post-93293

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-professional-click-type-torque-wrench-64064.html

be aware hf also sells a very inferior 1/2" torque wrench for $20 also
 
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never use a torque wrench as a breaker bar,
BUY A CHEAP BREAKER BAR AND USE IT

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1/2 in. Drive 25 in. Breaker Bar

Amazing deals on this 1/2In Dr 25In Breaker Bar at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
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Titan Tools 12018 Titan Ratchet Head Breaker Bars | Summit Racing

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61319_2000x2000.jpg

I recently had the opportunity to use the torque wrench linked ABOVE,
at a different engine builders shop and I was so impressed with the quality :like:

that I then went out and purchased one, for my personal tool set,
(the wife was not impressed with me spending $249 As She knows I had several already)
now I HAVE SEVERAL TORQUE WRENCHES THAT WORK VERY WELL,
but I purchased this torque wrench after having used his,
simply because of the high quality and accuracy it displayed.
if you need a good torque wrench, Id recommend this one, even though it cost several times what you can buy one for else ware,
its just a step up in quality, over many others I've used for decades, that's obvious
 
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I had an issue using a Harbor Freight 1/2” torque wrench a year ago. While torquing the lug nuts on our 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee, I ended up breaking off one wheel stud and stretching another! We used to live off a dirt road so I attributed this to me not cleaning the studs off enough. However, after reading this post, I think the HF torque wrench was the culprit. I should have realized that with a $10 torque wrench, you get what you pay for. Kinda and embarrassing lesson for a seasoned mechanical engineer!

So the HF torque wrench is going in the trash. I saw these two torque wrenches today on sale: the Craftsman CMMT99434 1/2” drive for $65 on Amazon and the Husky 50 - 250 ft-lb torque wrench at Home Depot for $60. Do you have any recommendations here? (of course you do!)

Craftsman Torque Wrench @ Amazon

Husky Torque Wrench @ Home Depot

Thanks,
Kenny Bee
 
well I've used and own both the Craftsman an home depot torque wrenches for decades,
I prefer the sears, but keep in mind its 50 years old and may not be the same model that's currently being sold!
you'll do fine with either , if you don't want to buy the more expensive one I linked to above.

btw Ive seen and used/tested a HF torque wrench, a friend bought,
and as you have surmised ,and yeah, it seemed to be trash
I've tested the both the Craftsman an home depot torque wrenches against each other for consistency, and the older sears TQ wench seems to be marginally more consistent... btw remember to return the torque setting to under 20 lbs and spray the surfaces with WD 40 when you store the torque wrench to is place in your tool chest or it WILL not be consistent in its readings.
its also a good ide to use the correct deep well sockets (IE 6 or 12 point) when in use, matching the bolts as use of the non matching type of socket on 12 point bolts will cause issues)

the primary design function of the 12 point socket

As I have frequently seen in both my own experience and those of other friends, the primary design function of the 12 point socket,on six point head bolts, or oil passage plugs on the block rail area on big block chevys, is a carefully planed ruse, designed to force you to buy both new 6...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
 
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Kenny Bee 194 said:
I had an issue using a Harbor Freight 1/2” torque wrench a year ago. While torquing the lug nuts on our 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee, I ended up breaking off one wheel stud and stretching another!
Click to expand...
After torqueing down my head the last time, something didn't feel right (turns out it was way to much torque, should have clicked earlier), so I also question my T-wrench lately, and I'm in the market for a new one. Mine was a mid range tool - not too fancy but no chinesium ether, but 30 years old - didn't know the can go bad. I never did anything extraordinary - 100 fp max. Never abused it for something else, never opened bolts.
Are those digital wrenches any good?

Frank
 
I don't know a SINGLE pro engine builder that uses a digital torque wrench (optical (battery powered)screen)
 
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Well I finally got my replacement torque wrench. I ended up getting the Craftsman. I could not believe how much longer it is than the HF torque wrench! It does goes to 250 ft-lbs vs. the HF’s 150 ft-lbs, though. Can’t wait to try it out! The HF wrench was dumped unceremoniously in the trash can…

IMG_2060.jpeg
 
you really should have compared the accuracy between the two ,writing down the results
at lets say, 25ft lbs, 50ft lbs, 75 ft lbs, 100ft lbs, 125 ft lbs and 150 ft lbs
before throwing the old HF in the dumpster,
just to see if it made any difference, if they were within 3 ft lbs all the way through,
if it did consistently,
Id have kept the HF as an emergency back-up
a consistent 3 ft lb is easy to compensate for if you know the reading discrepancy exists,
its inconsistent readings over the range that make the wrench total trash
btw
(keep in mind answers to questions, in most threads,
generally refer, related info & links with info others may also need)

you'll also need a dirt cheap, beam style torque wrench for engine assembly,
where you look for the required effort to spin the crank after each piston is installed
if it takes over 10 ft lbs to spin just the crank in the lubed bearings, or 45 ft lbs to spin a short block, assembly
(all the piston and rods installed) over during assembly,
go back over the assembly and find out what's binding

resistance to rotation, of crank durring short blk assembly

Ok youve just installed your crankshaft in the engine block, with new main bearings and everything's well coated with assembly lube,and oil, and youve torqued down the main caps to spec. in at least three stages, and then gone back and rechecked the studs or bolts per the manufacturers...
garage.grumpysperformance.com

assembling and installing connecting rods/pistons

look closely at the connecting rods one edge of the main bearing are is beveled noticeably more than the other that beveled side faces away from the rod its paired with because it matches the slight radiased bevel of the crank journal many builder class pistons are designed to go in, in either...
garage.grumpysperformance.com


www.summitracing.com

Performance Tool W3001C Performance Tool Torque Wrenches | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Performance Tool Torque Wrenches with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Torque Wrenches at Summit Racing.
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bearing clearances

Rod bearings 0.002 - 0.025" , side clearance 0.010 - 0.020" Main bearings 0.002 - 0.003" for most engines ( 0.020-0.025 bearing clearance on small blocks, .025-.027 bearing clearance is about ideal, on...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
pwb-644044_xl.jpg

www.summitracing.com

Powerbuilt Tools 644044

Free Shipping - Powerbuilt Tools 644044 with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Torque Wrenches at Summit Racing.
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the quality of the mid priced, pro quality torque wrench's ($125-$250) have steadily improved over the last few years
yes you can spend a lot more or less, but this is very good quality

the one belows 1/2 the price and might be ok,
www.harborfreight.com

1/2 in. Drive, 50-250 ft. lb. Professional Click Torque Wrench

Amazing deals on this 1/2In Dr Click Type Pro Torque Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com
 
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