why build a 383 vs a 350

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
hey grumpyvette,?
I've always wondered why stroking a 350 is such a popular choice when there is the choice of using a 400 SB. Is there something about the engine configuration that produces 'better' power, or simply that 400's are rarer motors. "



read this
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-block-cylinder-wall-thickness.976/


READ THIS LINK AND ITS SUB LINKED INFO

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tweaking-a-350-383.13087/#post-68195

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/another-383-build.12786/page-3#post-66155

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...s-for-a-383-with-170-cc-edelbrocks-now.13243/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-a-383-sbc-combo-planing.12168/#post-58778

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-or-upgrading-too-a-383-sbc.11408/#post-54984

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/383-information-overload.11137/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-parts-and-a-logical-plan.7722/#post-26314

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/port-speeds-and-area.333/#post-1701

SUMMIT SELLS G.M. BLOCKS you can use to build a 383 for $700 plus shipping , but ID suggest limiting power to about 500 hp with these
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150100

OR you can spend a bit more and get a far stronger and thicker casting for about $1550
http://www.summitracing.com/search/prod ... e%20Blocks
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/hrd ... omparison/
short answer!
its the most cost effective combo , that's easily built on the most common basic Chevy performance engine block, the 350 sbc. its an easy 35-50 hp over a similar 350,and its easy to build.
well first most guys tend to work with the basic components the car came with ind in most cases that's a 350 sbc if its a factory performance application over the last decade or more even so, they want better performance and limited to use of the basic 350 block and while trying to keep cost reasonable the most cost effective build is the 383 stroker simply because of parts cost,availability and minimal machine work.
Almost anything you can do to a 350 that will increase hp/tq will also work on a 383 and produce about 10% more tq and hp due to the increased displacement with similar components used.
yes the 400 blocks with their larger bore have a distinct advantage but they are much harder to find.
aftermarket blocks have much thicker cylinder walls and webs, if your going to build a serious engine youll be far better off using an aftermarket performance block.
One other factor is that common hydraulic lifter valve trains tend to max out at about 6400rpm, about where the common 383 maxes out, while the smaller 350 with its shorter stroke can,t effectively use its potential higher rpm band, that extends a good 400rpm higher with stock lifters and valve train components.
that and the fact most auto transmission's shift much lower in the rpm band than a 350s power band could effectively use to maximize the potentially higher power band

blockskirt8.JPG

removing the rod caps during clearance checks while building your 383 ,does seem to allow you to see the clearance issues a bit easier

rodcaptocamclearance.JPG

rodcaptoblockclearance.JPG


http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/cc ... index.html

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showt ... id/131229/




http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/383c ... ock_build/




http://www.competitionproducts.com/Short-Blocks-Chev-SB/departments/1224/




http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/port-speeds-and-area.333/

typical2bolt350.jpg

typical two bolt cast crank 350



mor-38350_w.jpg

On oil pans I prefer studs, and an oil pan back plate
panback1.jpg

fel-0534510t.jpg

you might want to Use with P/N 12553058 RH and P/N 12553059 LH oil pan reinforcement plates to distribute the bolt stress on the oil pan rail for 1985 and earlier oil pans P/N 14088501 (LH) and P/N 14088502 (RH).1986 and newer
Id say its a VERY bad idea personally , if you shop carefully you can find a reasonably priced 6- 7 quart oil pan that should help engine durability.
SHOP CAREFULLY ,
WHEN YOU GO TO BUY AN OIL PAN for your engine or transmission,
<AND ASK LOTS OF QUESTIONS ABOUT WHAT WILL FIT YOUR CAR CORRECTLY,
AND ASK FOR SUGGESTIONS ON MATCHING COMPONENTS OR PARTS THAT WON,T FIT
many guys ignore proven combos, because it may cost more than they want to spend, and either insist on using components they own currently or think they can buy far less expensively than the components, I know from experience will actually work.

MILODON,
http://www.milodon.com/

CHAMP
http://www.champpans.com/products/c/oil-pans/

CANTON,
https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/category/1501/Chevy-SS--Road-Race-Oil-Pans/1.html

MOROSO
http://www.moroso.com/
http://www.shopmoroso.com/eb/catalog/navigationPath/1::Moroso Performance Products/1100001::Oil Pans/11005::Chevy Big Block, Gen VGen VI?resetOffset=true&entryId=catalog.productgroup.1110000111005&expand=true&menuId=main.menu

AVIAID
http://aviaid.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/ws_oilpns_sbc.html

STEFS
http://www.stefs.com/products/oilpans/circletrackwetsump.htm

HAMBURGERPERFORMANCE
http://www.hamburgersperformance.com/

KEVKO
https://kevko.myshopify.com/

IF you've wondered why I suggest buying and using a well designed BAFFLED oil pan with 7-8 quart capacity its to prevent the oil from uncovering the oil pump pick-up under performance use.
without control baffles oil sloshes away from the oil pump pick-up

Slosh1.jpg

Slosh3.jpg


Slosh2.jpg



obviously you,ll want to ask specific questions as to the ,
ground clearance, starters that can be used,
oil filters, oil dip stick, location,
oil pan gasket matching both pan and lock used.
rear oil seal type,and frame and suspension clearance issues,
related to your car, before you purchase any oil pan

I think the hamburger oil pan is a better value At $242
notice the better oil control features

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ham-1088/overview/
ham-1088.jpg




http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/street-oil-pans-sbchevy.asp

http://www.jegs.com/p/Moroso/Moroso-Street-Strip-Oil-Pans/763991/10002/-1

https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/hamburgers-performance/part-type/oil-pans

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=1301

http://www.stefsperformance.net/ste...oil-pans/aluminum-oil-pans-pumps#!prettyPhoto

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-level-in-oil-pan-with-engine-running.11263/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/#post-7231

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bearings-and-oil-flow.150/#post-68206

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ed-holes-in-bearings-shells.10750/#post-64733

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...es-engine-builders-magazine.11965/#post-57052

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...te-filter-require-a-new-pump.3144/#post-16458

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-cooler-increases-durability.176/#post-12473

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...essure-bye-pass-circuit-works.3536/#post-9379

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-basics.615/#post-1731

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-oil-temps.296/#post-361

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/whats-a-windage-tray-do.64/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/installing-an-oil-pump-pick-up-tube.1800/
 
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Greetings every one, what is the biggiest cylinder sleeve i can install in a Chevy 350 roller block? Can I go 4.125 or bigger?
Thanks.


If your limited to a chevy OEM 350 block
and looking to max displacement,
adding more than TWO non-adjacent sleeves per cylinder bank in a chevy OEM block will tend to weaken the block rigidity,
enough to be counter productive your better off boring the block to a .040 MAX over size and concentrating on correct parts selection and proper installation and clearances
there are 3.75" and 3.875" stroke cranks available.
a 400 SBC block has a 4.125" bore but SIAMESE CYLINDER WALLS not individual bore walls with coolant flow between each like a 350 block
yeah I'm fully aware that many guys simply remove the old cylinder heads slap on a new head gasket, buy a couple new heads and without much if any other prep, they simply bolt the parts together and drive the car....thats the start of a process that very frequently results in a rather expensive lesson in what can and probably will go wrong without the proper measuring, clean-up and inspection going on during the engine re-assembly.
it helps a great deal if you take the time and effort to find a trust worthy and reasonably priced local machine shop , and trust me when I say this is critical, and yes, the machinist will seem to point out endless things that should be done to increase durability, or just allow proper component function,and a good machinist will try to guide you in component selection to help avoid mis-matched parts and low quality parts being used, yes quality parts and machine work, ALWAYS COST more than you may expect them too!


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-assembly-check-list.111/#post-55504


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/having-a-realistic-plan.9040/#post-32314

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...k-about-in-your-engine-combo.3156/#post-43958

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...the-links-you-posted-grumpy.12020/#post-57503
http://www.ebay.com/itm/383-STROKER...ONS-2PC-RMS-/371513508438?hash=item567fee4256


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...block-cylinder-wall-thickness.976/#post-22976
 
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One of the caveats of the 400 block, especially the 4 bolt block is the cylinder bores are large enough to create a weak area from the outside main cap bolt hole and the cylinder bore.
They are very crack prone in that area as well as in the steam holes at the top of the block. Also crack prone from some of the head bolt holes to the bore. This is due to the larger bore being so close to the cylinder wall.
Like already mentioned, for serious HP considerations go with the after market blocks from Dart or World products. The GM Bow Tie block is also a good choice.
 
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