shelbysnake said:
the clutch disc in most treet cars looks similar to this picture ,the friction surface can and usually does absorb oil or hydraulic fluids if its bathed in them from a leak source.
the result is a slipping or chattering intermetent clamping force and vibrations, cmoke and squealing on engaugement
IF subjected to hydraulic fluid dripping on it over time ,is very likely to swell un-evenly, and slip under loads, both conditions tend to result in clutch failure eventually so the source of the oil or brake, or hydraulic fluid should be found and the problem corrected THEN a new clutch disc installed with a re-conditioned pressure plate, or better yet a SFI billet pressure plate and billet flywheel, and a blow proof bell housing
YES they cost more ...how much is keeping your feet attached to your legs worth to you?
and resurfaced flywheel with a NEW throw out bearing
old heat checked OEM cast flywheels like this are a potential problem, as under high loads and high rpms they have been known to explode.
non-billet, OEM, cast iron, flywheels that are not sfi rated are significantly lower strength designs
a resurfaced OEM CAST flywheel looks like new, but can be hiding serious structural flaws
use of a SFI rated flywheel and a blow proof bell housing, with a block saver plate and an sfi rated pressure plate, to contain it if the parts were to fragment under high rpms are highly recommended
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...gs-and-correctly-installing-bellhousings.584/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-brief-look-at-clutches.447/
just because heavy jagged chunks of hot steel tend to exit through your floor, dash and wind shield with enough force to cut the cars frame in half at times when a cast flywheel comes apart at higher rpms is reason enough to use billet SFI parts and a blow proof bell housing
Last edited: