one of the facts of life is that high performance cars tend to break down,
COMPONENTS FAIL, AND CARS NEED TRANSPORT WHEN THEY ARE NOT EASILY DRIVABLE, AND YOULL OCCASIONALLY FIND AMAZING BARGAINS ON PROJECT CARS, OR OLDER MUSCLE CARS THAT CAN,T BE DRIVEN
Yes I know your so tempted to just rent a trailer from some place like U-haul when you need one!
the problem with that is they are not always available and in my area a car trailer rents for about $80 for 24 hours PLUS $23 for full insurance on the trailer, and they won,t let you tow with a car, you NEED a truck, and they will tell you most pick-ups are not set up correctly to tow. check the daily rate on the trailer rental, and its usually a good idea to have a truck with great brakes, preferably a dually, be darn sure the vehicle you tow with is a good deal heavier than the combined weight of the trailer and car on it.
and get a trailer that has FULLY FUNCTIONAL BRAKES AND LIGHTS, THAT YOU ACTUALLY TEST WORK.
by the time you calculate the time and fuel to go get the trailer,return the trailer and rental fees youll be doing damn good if you spend less than $150-$200 to rent a trailer and if you do it frequently the cost adds up fast to well past the point owning a trailer even if you only use it 4-5 times a year makes economic sense, especially when you can usually find a decent used car trailer from between $1200-$1800.
If your in the market I'd strongly suggest from past experience you look carefully and verify minimal features like 18 ft bed length, dual 3500 lb rated axles and axles having electric brakes that work correctly wired to brake lights that work, having pull out or fold up ramps and a sturdy front angle adjustable jack with a decent wheel that allows you to change the trailer load angle and support the trailer obviously helps. you can weld on security d-rings and add bearing buddy bearing grease fittings, and add a dual spare tire carry mount, lockable tool box and power winch later, to make the trailer more user friendly.
ideally you'll want the trailer to have tires, and a wheel lug pattern from a standard easy to locate source on a standard 15" car rim size with a Chevy or Ford lug spacing to allow easy tire/wheel sourcing,and in an ideal world matching your truck, you'll use to pull it.(obviously you'll need to check your state laws for other factors, keep a copy of the title in your truck,and get it licenced and keep it well maintained)
If your in the market for a trailer look at the new ones and get a bunch of pictures and prices from several dealers then look for USED trailers in very good condition, so you get a good idea as to cost vs value in the various designs
you may find fabricating a custom trailer with the required dimensions is your best option,
from easily available trailer fabrication kits that supply axles springs tires etc.
but check with your state DMV, there may be specific rules governing trailer width,
tire height,
hitch type, and wheel base dimensions etc.
if it won,t pass inspection you may not be able to get a licence plate
similar to a new or used construction equipment transport trailer
shop for a used trailer carefully, these vary a great deal in condition weight,
type of tongue/5th wheel , and non-ball hitch type connection,
to the tow truck used
there vary in price and can at times sell dirt cheap,
because most people can,t use them,
but the basic trailer design can be modified in some cases
I know several guys that bought and modified similar trailers for race car transport use.
adding (security lockable tool boxes, generators and compressors added, winches etc.)
Last edited: A moment ago
READ THESE RELATED THREAD'S
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-state-muscle-or-project-car.4318/#post-32725
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/winch-question.10288/#post-41677
I'D ALSO POINT OUT THAT IF YOU BUY A DECENT CAR TRAILER ITS A VERY GOOD IDEA TO WELD d-RINGS ALONG THE AREAS REQUIRED TO SECURE THE CAR WITH THE PROPER LOCK DOWN TOOLS AND ADDING THINGS LIKE A WINCH OR BETTER LIGHTING OR BETTER BRAKES MAKES THE TRAILER FAR EASIER TO WORK WITH
MANY LOW GROUND CLEARANCE CARS , LIKE CORVETTES AND COBRAS WON,T LOAD EASILY ON A STOCK U-HAUL trailer without some longer ramps or they high center and damage the under car areas
and your car rarely breaks down sitting in your driveway when it does and youll rarely have the correct tools and parts with you so getting it back to your garage usually includes towing charges UNLESS you own a car trailer, now obviously you can buy one but if your skilled and own a welder you can usually build a nice one for less than 60% of the normal cost.
your also going to find a frequent need for you and your friends too transport larger and rather heavy components like engines, transmissions, frames, rear differentials and other components at times that won,t easily fit an an average car trunk, making owning a trailer capable of transporting those parts with a good selection of (d-rings_welded along the outer frame) and chains and binding clamps and a winch, to be used to safely secure those parts for transport much easier, a huge advantage in this hobby, and don,t forget you'll need an engine crane or over head hoist to unload the trailer and a garage or shop door and floor space that will allow you to back that trailer in far enough to access that load of components
Ive purchased and sold a couple over the years my current ones well used but looks like this one, and cost me $1200
this is where a decent MIG welder comes in handy
If you shop carefully and don,t jump on the first deal you see you are likely to find you can get a decent used car trailer at a decent price.
I can,t imagine being serious in this hobby and not owning or at least having access too a decent car transport trailer as your always going to need to move non running cars or transport project cars or major components.
be aware that theres always guys getting divorced, or having to take out of state jobs etc. and you can frequently find a basic USED car transport trailer for $600-$1500.
but be aware youll also need a decent tow vehicle , I bought a trailer and a decent DUAL REAR WHEEL truck, then swapped the truck for a chevy avalanche , but recently gave that to my younger son. so now I need to track him down for access when I need to tow the trailer.
know that owning a decent trailer has easily paid for itself in not needed towing fees many times over, in several years and its frequently used to rescue both my friends cars that break down, and to go get parts and project cars.
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=7810&p=26824#p26824
http://2loose.chevytalk.org/cherrypicker.html
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=87&t=4318&p=18620&hilit=state+trailer#p18620
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=87&t=4598&p=12268&hilit=state+trailer#p12268
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=340&p=416&hilit=state+trailer#p416
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=61&t=593&p=779&hilit=towing+hooks#p779
READ THESE RELATED THREADS THERE,S A GREAT DEAL MORE RELATED INFO IN THOSE LINKS
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=25&p=5753&hilit=trailer#p5753
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=3508
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=6405&p=20131#p20131
viewtopic.php?f=62&t=340&p=416&hilit=+trailer+lights#p416
viewtopic.php?f=87&t=4318
http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/trailer ... rints.html
viewtopic.php?f=87&t=4318&p=32725&hilit=out+of+state#p32725
http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/car-carrier-trailer-plans-18x80.html
http://www.oklahomatrailersales.com/carhauler.asp
http://www.terrystrailers.com/
http://www.trailerplans.com//index....mart&page=shop.browse&category_id=13&Itemid=2
http://www.plans-for-you.com/trailer.html
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...Id-100000169592/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000169592
ONE OTHER FACTOR to KEEP IN MIND, IS THOSE DEALS YOULL ON OCCASION SEE!
owning or having access to a trailer or flat bed is a huge plus in this hobby, ,keep in mind more than just a car can be transported, my trailer has over the years had many an engine or welder or rear differential transported too or from locations
and many "deals " on project cars or parts depend on your ability to move heavy non drivable cars or parts quickly before the owner has time to reconsider his selling them when his temporarily frustrated, because hes less likely to sell when the wife quits nagging or hes had time to think things thru
I purchased a car trailer just because of those super deals you occasionally get on those NON-running cars and 1/2 finished projects that you can get for low bucks IF you can haul them home before the owner regains his sense of the cars worth, and before he losses that pissed off feeling that gets you that low price
http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907312
http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907324
http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907321
a decent power metal saw will be a big plus as will a large flat area of concrete, I frequently forget , and assume most guys have access too or know what tools are involved, in most projects and have a few friends willing to get invoved in car related projects.
its amazing how often a car trailer comes in handy, theres of course the transports due to break downs but theres DEALS to be had on NON-running cars ALL the time, I had a buddy recently who found a non-running 1970 caddy for FREE if he would just tow it away!
he borrowed my trailer, the car looked like #$%$%^^& but in about 5 hours it was RUNNING and driveable even if the interior was totally mildewed.
I and several of my friends have purchased a few car trailers that needed some repairs at a very good price, I got mine at a yard sale from a guy that lost his job here,and was moving back up to GA.
It looked like crap but on close inspection it could be repaired reasonably, most of the problems were cosmetic, like bent fenders, broken lights, needing paint, etc.
It was not for sale, at the time but I left my ph# and he called. he at first asked for twice what I eventually paid for it, and even with the repairs it was a decent deal.
so its not impossible to go that route
"As far as loading a non-running vehicle onto a trailer, that's what winches are for! and there will be MANY a TIME that the car your working on or going out to retrieve, won,t run well enough to drive up onto the trailer"
Ive used a chain jack or come along for 40 years and any good hardware store can sell you a 35 foot long section of high strength chain and matching swivel hook that both replaces the original chain on the come along jack and allows you to pull the car up full distance or use a rafters in your garage to pull engines .
remember to secure the car under tension for travel in all directions and thats why you need to SECURELY weld on tie down loops every few feet on the trailer perimeter
when loading a car with limited ground clearance,Your best bet is to unhook the trailer and raise the trailer tongue until the back of the trailer is as close as possible to the ground. and use as long as ramps as possible to reduce the load angle and transition, If you use this method, be sure to put supports under the front and back of the trailer so that the weight of the car doesn't lift the front of the trailer as you load and unload.
COMPONENTS FAIL, AND CARS NEED TRANSPORT WHEN THEY ARE NOT EASILY DRIVABLE, AND YOULL OCCASIONALLY FIND AMAZING BARGAINS ON PROJECT CARS, OR OLDER MUSCLE CARS THAT CAN,T BE DRIVEN
Yes I know your so tempted to just rent a trailer from some place like U-haul when you need one!
the problem with that is they are not always available and in my area a car trailer rents for about $80 for 24 hours PLUS $23 for full insurance on the trailer, and they won,t let you tow with a car, you NEED a truck, and they will tell you most pick-ups are not set up correctly to tow. check the daily rate on the trailer rental, and its usually a good idea to have a truck with great brakes, preferably a dually, be darn sure the vehicle you tow with is a good deal heavier than the combined weight of the trailer and car on it.
and get a trailer that has FULLY FUNCTIONAL BRAKES AND LIGHTS, THAT YOU ACTUALLY TEST WORK.
by the time you calculate the time and fuel to go get the trailer,return the trailer and rental fees youll be doing damn good if you spend less than $150-$200 to rent a trailer and if you do it frequently the cost adds up fast to well past the point owning a trailer even if you only use it 4-5 times a year makes economic sense, especially when you can usually find a decent used car trailer from between $1200-$1800.
If your in the market I'd strongly suggest from past experience you look carefully and verify minimal features like 18 ft bed length, dual 3500 lb rated axles and axles having electric brakes that work correctly wired to brake lights that work, having pull out or fold up ramps and a sturdy front angle adjustable jack with a decent wheel that allows you to change the trailer load angle and support the trailer obviously helps. you can weld on security d-rings and add bearing buddy bearing grease fittings, and add a dual spare tire carry mount, lockable tool box and power winch later, to make the trailer more user friendly.
ideally you'll want the trailer to have tires, and a wheel lug pattern from a standard easy to locate source on a standard 15" car rim size with a Chevy or Ford lug spacing to allow easy tire/wheel sourcing,and in an ideal world matching your truck, you'll use to pull it.(obviously you'll need to check your state laws for other factors, keep a copy of the title in your truck,and get it licenced and keep it well maintained)
If your in the market for a trailer look at the new ones and get a bunch of pictures and prices from several dealers then look for USED trailers in very good condition, so you get a good idea as to cost vs value in the various designs
you may find fabricating a custom trailer with the required dimensions is your best option,
from easily available trailer fabrication kits that supply axles springs tires etc.
but check with your state DMV, there may be specific rules governing trailer width,
tire height,
hitch type, and wheel base dimensions etc.
if it won,t pass inspection you may not be able to get a licence plate
similar to a new or used construction equipment transport trailer
shop for a used trailer carefully, these vary a great deal in condition weight,
type of tongue/5th wheel , and non-ball hitch type connection,
to the tow truck used
there vary in price and can at times sell dirt cheap,
because most people can,t use them,
but the basic trailer design can be modified in some cases
I know several guys that bought and modified similar trailers for race car transport use.
adding (security lockable tool boxes, generators and compressors added, winches etc.)
Last edited: A moment ago
READ THESE RELATED THREAD'S
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-state-muscle-or-project-car.4318/#post-32725
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/winch-question.10288/#post-41677
I'D ALSO POINT OUT THAT IF YOU BUY A DECENT CAR TRAILER ITS A VERY GOOD IDEA TO WELD d-RINGS ALONG THE AREAS REQUIRED TO SECURE THE CAR WITH THE PROPER LOCK DOWN TOOLS AND ADDING THINGS LIKE A WINCH OR BETTER LIGHTING OR BETTER BRAKES MAKES THE TRAILER FAR EASIER TO WORK WITH
MANY LOW GROUND CLEARANCE CARS , LIKE CORVETTES AND COBRAS WON,T LOAD EASILY ON A STOCK U-HAUL trailer without some longer ramps or they high center and damage the under car areas
and your car rarely breaks down sitting in your driveway when it does and youll rarely have the correct tools and parts with you so getting it back to your garage usually includes towing charges UNLESS you own a car trailer, now obviously you can buy one but if your skilled and own a welder you can usually build a nice one for less than 60% of the normal cost.
your also going to find a frequent need for you and your friends too transport larger and rather heavy components like engines, transmissions, frames, rear differentials and other components at times that won,t easily fit an an average car trunk, making owning a trailer capable of transporting those parts with a good selection of (d-rings_welded along the outer frame) and chains and binding clamps and a winch, to be used to safely secure those parts for transport much easier, a huge advantage in this hobby, and don,t forget you'll need an engine crane or over head hoist to unload the trailer and a garage or shop door and floor space that will allow you to back that trailer in far enough to access that load of components
Ive purchased and sold a couple over the years my current ones well used but looks like this one, and cost me $1200
this is where a decent MIG welder comes in handy
If you shop carefully and don,t jump on the first deal you see you are likely to find you can get a decent used car trailer at a decent price.
I can,t imagine being serious in this hobby and not owning or at least having access too a decent car transport trailer as your always going to need to move non running cars or transport project cars or major components.
be aware that theres always guys getting divorced, or having to take out of state jobs etc. and you can frequently find a basic USED car transport trailer for $600-$1500.
but be aware youll also need a decent tow vehicle , I bought a trailer and a decent DUAL REAR WHEEL truck, then swapped the truck for a chevy avalanche , but recently gave that to my younger son. so now I need to track him down for access when I need to tow the trailer.
know that owning a decent trailer has easily paid for itself in not needed towing fees many times over, in several years and its frequently used to rescue both my friends cars that break down, and to go get parts and project cars.
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=7810&p=26824#p26824
http://2loose.chevytalk.org/cherrypicker.html
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=87&t=4318&p=18620&hilit=state+trailer#p18620
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=87&t=4598&p=12268&hilit=state+trailer#p12268
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=340&p=416&hilit=state+trailer#p416
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=61&t=593&p=779&hilit=towing+hooks#p779
READ THESE RELATED THREADS THERE,S A GREAT DEAL MORE RELATED INFO IN THOSE LINKS
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=25&p=5753&hilit=trailer#p5753
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=3508
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=6405&p=20131#p20131
viewtopic.php?f=62&t=340&p=416&hilit=+trailer+lights#p416
viewtopic.php?f=87&t=4318
http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/trailer ... rints.html
viewtopic.php?f=87&t=4318&p=32725&hilit=out+of+state#p32725
http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/car-carrier-trailer-plans-18x80.html
http://www.oklahomatrailersales.com/carhauler.asp
http://www.terrystrailers.com/
http://www.trailerplans.com//index....mart&page=shop.browse&category_id=13&Itemid=2
http://www.plans-for-you.com/trailer.html
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/...Id-100000169592/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000169592
ONE OTHER FACTOR to KEEP IN MIND, IS THOSE DEALS YOULL ON OCCASION SEE!
owning or having access to a trailer or flat bed is a huge plus in this hobby, ,keep in mind more than just a car can be transported, my trailer has over the years had many an engine or welder or rear differential transported too or from locations
and many "deals " on project cars or parts depend on your ability to move heavy non drivable cars or parts quickly before the owner has time to reconsider his selling them when his temporarily frustrated, because hes less likely to sell when the wife quits nagging or hes had time to think things thru
I purchased a car trailer just because of those super deals you occasionally get on those NON-running cars and 1/2 finished projects that you can get for low bucks IF you can haul them home before the owner regains his sense of the cars worth, and before he losses that pissed off feeling that gets you that low price
http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907312
http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907324
http://www.welders-direct.com/merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=WD&Product_Code=907321
a decent power metal saw will be a big plus as will a large flat area of concrete, I frequently forget , and assume most guys have access too or know what tools are involved, in most projects and have a few friends willing to get invoved in car related projects.
its amazing how often a car trailer comes in handy, theres of course the transports due to break downs but theres DEALS to be had on NON-running cars ALL the time, I had a buddy recently who found a non-running 1970 caddy for FREE if he would just tow it away!
he borrowed my trailer, the car looked like #$%$%^^& but in about 5 hours it was RUNNING and driveable even if the interior was totally mildewed.
I and several of my friends have purchased a few car trailers that needed some repairs at a very good price, I got mine at a yard sale from a guy that lost his job here,and was moving back up to GA.
It looked like crap but on close inspection it could be repaired reasonably, most of the problems were cosmetic, like bent fenders, broken lights, needing paint, etc.
It was not for sale, at the time but I left my ph# and he called. he at first asked for twice what I eventually paid for it, and even with the repairs it was a decent deal.
so its not impossible to go that route
"As far as loading a non-running vehicle onto a trailer, that's what winches are for! and there will be MANY a TIME that the car your working on or going out to retrieve, won,t run well enough to drive up onto the trailer"
Ive used a chain jack or come along for 40 years and any good hardware store can sell you a 35 foot long section of high strength chain and matching swivel hook that both replaces the original chain on the come along jack and allows you to pull the car up full distance or use a rafters in your garage to pull engines .
remember to secure the car under tension for travel in all directions and thats why you need to SECURELY weld on tie down loops every few feet on the trailer perimeter
when loading a car with limited ground clearance,Your best bet is to unhook the trailer and raise the trailer tongue until the back of the trailer is as close as possible to the ground. and use as long as ramps as possible to reduce the load angle and transition, If you use this method, be sure to put supports under the front and back of the trailer so that the weight of the car doesn't lift the front of the trailer as you load and unload.
Last edited by a moderator: