you really can use a car transport trailer!

I recently saw a rather interesting posted question concerning car trailers
it asked if it was a good idea to loan out or rent out a car trailer.

BTW if you own a trailer MIG WELD the VIN#
or some other unique number,
like your name and address BOLDLY in several places on the frame
(at least two places on the underside )
so you can prove its yours if its stolen, licence and vin tags are removed by thieves

you should also stamp your name and Id and vin,
numbers DEEPLY IN THE TRAILER FRAME AND AXLE,
in several places
these can be coated with a light coat of bondo
and painted over allowing you to scratch off and prove ownership
with a hidden stamped number location, only you know about


333.jpg


owning a trailer is always a great addition to any mechanics tool inventory
be damn sure that you install tracking software and park it using manual security
like wheel locks,and trailer tongue locks

the truth most of us don,t care to hear, is that towing is best done with a 3/4 ton rated pick-up and if its the primary use, you might consider a diesel dually with 4x4 and power steering
I know I had a 2005 avalanche I used for a few years and it was one of the best tow rigs I owned.
yeah, it is not ideal but having a "parts chaser/tow truck" is a very helpful/ useful, accessory to have access too in this hobby if you tow a trailer


https://www.amazon.com/Trak-4-Mobil...t=&hvlocphy=9012039&hvtargid=pla-783950193559

https://www.provenlocks.com/product...MIx9ioiqqn5wIVBb7ACh0ZCQwiEAQYBCABEgIg0vD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/Trimax-TCL65-Wheel-Chock-Lock/dp/B0031XULF2?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
From long experience I can assure you that loaning out a car trailer is usually a very bad idea!!
now if you are into working on or racing cars youll eventually find owning or at least having easy access too a decent car trailer,is nearly mandatory, simply because your constantly going to need to transport non-running cars for various reasons.
youll also learn that everyone thinks youll loan it out for free if they ask,
and that some of them get pissed off if you won,t do them little favors,
like driving three states over to pick-up a deal they got,
on a project car FOR FREE WITH THAT TRAILER

youll also quickly find that you can rent a trailer for $60-$80 a day ,(and AND SO CAN THEY)
if you need one fairly often, that ,daily rental fee for a trailer rental ,cost would very quickly pay for the purchase price of a trailer.

7E47CA1.jpg


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the problem with owning a trailer is that they require a yearly licencing (fairly minor expense) plus on going replacement of tires,wheel bearings,trailer paint etc.
and the fact that its all too common for a constant stream of acquaintances want to "borrow" or "RENT" at low cost your trailer.
If youve owned a trailer for long or know a few people that have youll hear nearly endless HORROR stories re-guarding those people who FOOLISHLY lent out trailers.
Ive heard of guys who damaged trailer, guys who swear they had trailer stolen and guys that totally wrecked trailers, and if you own a trailer theres potential legal liability issues,THAT YOU WILL BE HIT WITH, if some jerk injures someone while using your trailer
the fact is that most people in general don,t take care of other peoples property and most people don,t know how to properly load ,balance , or back a trailer and many can,t do simple things like hook up brakes lights or safety chains and most don,t understand the vastly increased braking distances required.
if your going to loan out a trailer ID strongly suggest taking a MANDATORY $1000 security/damage deposit and charging a minimal $30 a day rental fee as having a financial reason to return the trailer quickly and in good condition has benefits



I lent my old open trailer to a friend while I was doing an upgrade on my car. Got it back 18mths later with damage and broken tail lights.
No one borrows my trailers anymore.........


I've let someone use my trailer twice, both times it came back I had to fix something....and it was one of my best friends.

I loaned my open trailer to a friend to haul a four wheeler to texas a few weeks ago.. saw him over the weekend said " hay I did not know you were back when are you going to bring my trailer back ?" he the then informed me that he left it in texas for someone else to bring back. that guy then had to cancel his trip . so my shit is about a 1000 miles from me, they are trying to come up with a plan to get it back to me.


NO! NO! NO!
Only time I loaned my car trailer out to a buddy, I had to go get it from him!
THE Lights were all fucked up and tongue was bent bad by jack-knifing it!
Never again!

obviously theres differences in construction quality, load capacity, and design features, and Id strongly suggest a 4 wheel 3500 lb MINIMUM LOAD RATING PER AXLE
DUAL 5200 lb dual axles, BOTH AXLES with electric brakes would be better yet!
and
a 18-20 ft long trailer with electric brakes on BOTH AXLES that work with the brake lights, if your in the market you can buy a trailer like that or upgrade an existing trailer if its compatible with the upgrade , but don,t rush out and buy the first trailer you find, be damn choosy and get a good functional design with good brakes big tires and springs solid axles and lots of security tie downs

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IMG_2423.jpg

IMG_2424.jpg

bolting and welding 3-to-8 additional security rings per side FRAME RAIL to a trailer frame is a huge plus for securing a car trailer load
having a dozen perimeter welded d-rings on the trailer frame to secure loads are almost a mandatory improvement
drng1.jpg

drng2.JPG

drng3.jpg



SR15-C.jpg

welddring.jpg

bearingbuddy.gif

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obviously accurately measure the hubs before ordering bearing buddies

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-should-have-tow-rings-or-hooks.592/#post-778

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/fulton--bearing-life-bearing-protectors--P017_513_005_002

http://www.etrailer.com/dept.aspx?furl=pg-Grease_Caps&gclid=CIOpn9yu6MkCFQ-RaQodqqkL7Q

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/brand.oap?mn=Bearing+Buddy&mc=BBI

http://www.trimaxlocks.com/

weld on extra security loop rings, on the trailer frame and add bearing buddies, and carry two full size spares and lock them to the trailer securely, and use a couple redundant trailer locks

http://abctrailerparts.com/3.5ktandemEBIDkit.html

http://www.trailerrvparts.com/Lippe...ing-Brake-TrailerRv-Axle-92HF-74SC_p_727.html

http://www.easternmarine.com/Electric-Trailer-Brake-Assemblies/

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hubs-and-Drums/Dexter/42656.html

http://autowheelservice.weebly.com/trailer-axles.html
 
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Always heard three things you DON'T loan out . TOOLS--EQUIPMENT--WIFE. ALL WILL COME BACK F__-KED UP!!!
 
Grumpy what are You using to load cars onto your car trailer. ?
I have a few to move here.
Are you using a Come- A Long too ?
Any way to make the task easier ?
Can't drive them up. Dead engines.

Electric winch worthwhile buying ?
 
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yes youll want to have several D rings on the trailer and TOW HOOKS welded on any car frame you own, and having a decent electrical winch is a HUGE help, I have two manual cable jacks I use when I can,t borrow my neighbors portable power winch, but be aware that if you buy an electrical winch, it should be portable so you can securely store it locked up out of sight and out of the weather and have quick electrical plug in connectors for its use, because if its just bolted on it WILL SPROUT LEGS AND WALK OFF SOME NIGHT, or if left out in the weather it won,t function for many years before it fails

you'll want access to easily portable winch or chain jack or cable jack to allow you to pull non-functional cars up on any trailer
I bought two of these CABLE JACK PULLERS PICTURED BELOW for $99 for the pair that I use to load cars on the trailer IF I CAN'T BORROW MY NEIGHBORS PORTABLE POWER WINCH (he bought his for $800 several years ago when a marine dealership closed, they cost more now)

cablej.png

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wrn-37441/overview/

WRN-37441.jpg


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/winch-question.10288/#post-41677


dualpivotwh1.jpg
 
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I will look around at Menards & Rural King stores after work Grumpy.
Thanks.
I don't like thieves either.
 
I have decided to buy a better 4 Ton Cable Hoist Come A Long Grumpy.
Maybe buy A pair of 4 Tons.

I want to upgrade the Secure Rings on my trailer. The last guy owner lag bolted them down to the Wood Deck.
Can I weld New D rings to the outside trailer frame rails ? They are pretty thick guage steel on my trailer. About 3/16" thick rails.
What would use ? 5/8" D-RINGS @15,000 RATED CAPACITY EACH ?
3/4" D-RING @20.000 # CAPACITY.
 
I may buy a Chain Hoist too.
I wasn't sure what you meant till I clicked on your link.
Flatbed Truck Drivers use them to haul huge steel rolls & ultra heavy loads.
 
bolting and welding 3-to-8 additional security rings per side FRAME RAIL to a trailer frame is a huge plus for securing a car trailer load, I BOUGHT AND WELDED AND BOLTED IN (8) 5/8" D-RINGS ALONG THE FRAME RAILS WITH TWO NFT GRADE #8 3" BOLTS
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and two THICK WASHERS, and NYLOC NUTS
PLUS WELDED THE FLANGE

SR15-C.jpg

welddring.jpg
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Thanks Grumpy.
I have A Game Plan now.
Time permitting I will get pictures and post a few for You.
 
http://brahmalock.com/
trailers with designed in ramp storage are very handy
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trailernu1.jpg

having a dozen perimeter welded d-rings on the trailer frame to secure loads are almost a mandatory improvement
drng1.jpg

drng2.JPG

drng3.jpg

watch this video, it demonstrates the result of improper weight distribution on a trailer,
and in case your really unable to grasp the concept moving the center of weight out past the axle,too the rear, would likely result in a total loss of control and you might be able to flip your car or flip the load., very easily, or un-uncontrollably run into oncoming traffic
Once you have calculated the tongue weight on your trailer, you need to make sure the figure does not exceed the recommended load for your trailer. If the tongue weight is below the recommended amount you must move some of the load forward or strap a heavy object like a toolbox to the front frame of the trailer. If the tongue weight exceeds the recommended amount you must shift some of the load rearward in the trailer. Here are the recommended weight distribution figures:
http://brahmalock.com/

Tandem Axle Trailer 9%-15%
Single Axle Trailer 10%-15%
Fifth Wheel Trailer 18%-20%

Here is the formula for calculating tongue weight:

weight-calculation.jpg


Be sure you are loaded the way you anticipate traveling. If you expect to carry water or gasoline (in a boat), be sure your tanks are full, before doing your weight calculations.
http://www.engineersedge.com/calculators/trailer-weight-balance.htm

http://www.eyershitch.com/trailer-weight.html

https://www.myteeproducts.com/3-4-h...MIr-6yuaiq6QIVD6_ICh0DOA9DEAYYBCABEgJ4JPD_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/Forged-D-Rings-Trailer-Tie-down-Ring-27011/dp/B011H9FRG4

I've generally welded and bolt-on d-rings with grade 8 bolts
to the trailer to secure safety chains
and yes looped thru and secured with 1/2" thread links

index.php


https://www.dccargomall.com/3and4-f...MIua79j6qq6QIVQQiICR3SygB2EAQYAiABEgKQyvD_BwE

https://www.dccargomall.com/1-2-d-ring-bolt-on-clip-gold-colored-zinc.html

drinj.png


and use two of these to anchor the chain to the bumper
https://www.lodimetals.com/34-steel...MIqfSvxKmq6QIVi7bICh2kWgJhEAQYASABEgLx6PD_BwE

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BTW
if your state has yearly trailer tags....

http://www.michigan.gov/sos/0,1607,7-127-1585_1595_1607-82866--,00.html
 
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I kept my trailer for last. I had it on consignment at a paint shop with great exposure, but They have a small dealership with a new trailer co. and I'm sure my interests are last on their list. I never got around to fitting a permanent winch and a tongue box for a battery and air compressor. I did manage to install a good inverter on the truck. This has been hard to sell, these incline deck, all aluminum, duallies are too much for most guys.
 
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have you sold that trailer?
what were or are you asking$$
and have you got detailed clear pictures (even if its been sold)
 
No, it's casually for sale, meaning I meantion it from time to time and it's parked where it can be seen.
It's a 2013 Aluma trailer model 8218H tilt bed. It has the option 6 wheel lugs on 15" aluminum wheels with tandem 6500# axles. It has a factory customized twin I beam for a 2500# cap. Trailer arms. Has optional hub odometer, 4 wheel brakes with limiter brake lock-up. LED lighting with optional side marker perimeter safety lighting. Downward facing halo road lights (Driver can see trailer tires on the lane at night via vehicle side view mirrors "Aftemarket")
Dura-Shield anti oxide, Polished Aluminum clearcoating "Aftermarket." Optional 6 additional flush mounted "D" rings.
5726 documented miles, clear PA title, original/1st and only owner, currently and recently inspected, still registered.
Removable fenders for low door clearance. 18' X 6' 10" Aluminum deck
$4250
IMG_0674.JPG . Note: Picture is of the same model, Internet supplied.
 
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I just got a call from one of the guys I built a big block CHEVY STROKER 496 engine for several years ago,
(yeah its still runs great after 7-8 years, but too be fair its a weekend toy and does not get excessive use)
he was taking his 1967 Pontiac GTO, (LARRY) that we installed that engine in, to a local car show, like he does every few months, on his car transport trailer,
when one of the trailer tires suddenly and rapidly got a flat tire.
now luckily it was not an instant BLOW-OUT , because even though he was only (according to him ) driving at about 45-50 mph on a local street he almost lost control of the ford dually truck he uses to tow the car trailer, when the tire lost air pressure.
(he stated the rear of the truck suddenly pulled un-unexpectedly causing him to change lanes)
his only jack was not able to lift the axle on the trailer high enough to install the only spare tire he had for the trailer, but that was meaningless as he found it was also flat!
I went over to help him jack up the trailer and change the tire simply because he called me because he was only blocks from my home when this happened.
I discussed the tires and the condition they were in and he admitted he had purchased them , used off a couple wrecked cars, rather cheaply at a local salvage yard, to save money and they were of un-known age when he bought them, as he has a trailer that uses the ford bolt pattern, he said the tread looked good and the bolt pattern fit so for $30 each, rims included he figured he got a deal as new, trailer tires, he priced, cost well over $80 each!
I explained that trailer tires are generally built with stiffer side wall construction, than car tires then we looked up the tire info... two of his tires were made in 2002 one in 2006 and the one that got shredded looked older but was un-readable... I told him he was damn lucky that he was now going 65 mph in traffic on the highway and that his car had not decided to bust loose of the trailer (he was smart enough to have it secured with several welded (D) rings and 3/8" chain ) and tension jacks.
any time you intend to use a trailer to transport a car, especially if its gong any significant distance and by that I would mean more than a 15-20 minute trip. Id suggest you pump fresh grease into the bearing buddy bearing grease fittings you should have installed all ready and verify the trailer lights brake lights and if you have them trailer brakes are functioning correctly,
it sure helps to have a locking tool box welded or bolted top the trailer,
at least a couple spare axle bearings a decent floor jack and TWO GOOD SPARE TIRES,you damn sure don,t want to blow a tire with your performance car on that trailer when your towing it at 60 plus mph, that could easily wreck both the car and trailer AND the truck towing both.
and several cans of fix-a-flat , and obviously a lug wrench as minimum

Having a couple small 1'x 2' sections of 3/4" plywood stuffed in that tool box, to prevent the jack from sinking in soft dirt would not hurt either and a cell phone with all your friends phone numbers is not a bad idea either
trailerbox.jpg

towaxlehooks.jpg

24260.jpg

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having at least one (D-RING on each corner of your trailer )bolted on and welded to the frame
or better yet 3-4 on each side and two on each end to secure the car and if its a race car a couple (D-RINGS welded to the frame in matching locations ) is a really good idea
towrg6.jpg

towrg7.jpg

towrg8.jpg

towrg5.jpg


on most more modern cars theres no easy to access place to hook a tow strap
so if you intend to trailer and race any car it makes a great deal of sense to customize or bolt or weld on substantial loops or rings too the lower frame where a tow strap can be securely clipped in place to tow or secure the car too a trailer

DSC00325.jpg

DSC00326.jpg

DSC00327.jpg

DSC00328.jpg

DSC00329.jpg





youll need brakes
http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/p-...brake-kit-10-for-four-wheels-7500-rating.aspx

http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/p-...brake-kit-10-for-four-wheels-6000-rating.aspx


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tow-bars-and-dollys.3508/


13630.jpg


http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=3/8"+chain

http://www.harborfreight.com/9200-lb-ratcheting-load-binder-61452.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=d+rings

tireagea.png



you might want to read this thread
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...s-refers-too-and-related-info.1946/#post-5160
 
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IMG_0289.jpg

keep in mind ALUMINUM STRESS HARDENS OVER TIME, and the constant fore and aft stress loads make these aluminum adjustable
trailer ball mounts need to be checked frequently for even minor stress cracks..
the leverage this design has obviously amplify.s the potential stress crack formation potential!
most people don,t think about the stress loads or the potential for failure......one reason aluminum connecting rods MUST be changed out every few years while forged steel connecting rods can last decades

stress related threads
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/aluminum-connecting-rods.5440/#post-16225

http://brahmalock.com/

http://www.trimaxlocks.com/

http://www.trouttiretrailers.com/car_hauler_trailers
 
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I have owned a car transport trailer for 3 decades ,and until a few years ago,
when I gave my younger son my 4x4 truck as a gift ,I used to pull it,
I unfortunately no longer have that truck/parts chaser to pull it with.
and I've been looking for a replacement for a few years,
if you've priced trucks, that are reasonably big enough to safely tow a car and car trailer on it,
recently you know they are damn expensive if you are looking for something thats in reasonable shape,
has fairly low mileage, and in my case ideally a 4x4 with a crew cab.
I keep looking, but I get quoted prices with a strait face that are ludicrous.
I saw a 1999 4x4 ford crew cab on the side of the road recently with over 140K miles
the guy was asking.......$17,000 I just laughed at him

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-as-a-parts-chaser-transport.2638/#post-73638
 
I have owned a car transport trailer for 3 decades ,and until a few years ago,
when I gave my younger son my 4x4 truck as a gift ,I used to pull it,
I unfortunately no longer have that truck/parts chaser to pull it with.
and I've been looking for a replacement for a few years,
if you've priced trucks, that are reasonably big enough to safely tow a car and car trailer on it,
recently you know they are damn expensive if you are looking for something thats in reasonable shape,
has fairly low mileage, and in my case ideally a 4x4 with a crew cab.
I keep looking, but I get quoted prices with a strait face that are ludicrous.
I saw a 1999 4x4 ford crew cab on the side of the road recently with over 140K miles
the guy was asking.......$17,000 I just laughed at him

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-as-a-parts-chaser-transport.2638/#post-73638
Trucks are expensive now Grumpy.
Does not help your surrounded by Wealthy Retired boomers from allover the USA. THEY ARE USED TO PAYING TOP DOLLAR.
 
I have owned a car transport trailer for 3 decades ,and until a few years ago,
when I gave my younger son my 4x4 truck as a gift ,I used to pull it,
I unfortunately no longer have that truck/parts chaser to pull it with.
and I've been looking for a replacement for a few years,
if you've priced trucks, that are reasonably big enough to safely tow a car and car trailer on it,
recently you know they are damn expensive if you are looking for something thats in reasonable shape,
has fairly low mileage, and in my case ideally a 4x4 with a crew cab.
I keep looking, but I get quoted prices with a strait face that are ludicrous.
I saw a 1999 4x4 ford crew cab on the side of the road recently with over 140K miles
the guy was asking.......$17,000 I just laughed at him

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-as-a-parts-chaser-transport.2638/#post-73638
Might have to look out of state.
Travel to get that 3/4 - 1 ton 4x4 Truck.
454 BIG BLOCK.
Ford 7.3 Diesel. Both Rare now.
 
It took me awhile to save for my Duramax . Then another while to save for the 27" trailer, but I can tow most anything safely down the road. We store the Duramax for the winter and bring it back out around the end of May. It was just too damn expensive to drive on the salty winter roads around here. I rarely get to drive it because the wife claimed it was HER summer ride! lol003.JPG
 
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