your very basic 454 big block chevy build

[grumpyvette]

I build ALOT of old muscle car big block engines,
but it would HELP A GREAT DEAL if we knew the drive train specs,
(TRANS,STALL SPEED,GEAR RATIOS) car weight,
your engine rebuilding skill level,your access to tools, your budget,
if youve got a decent machine shop locally, and obviously the current condition of the engine, and if you wanted to pass emission testing, if you want to run on regular octane fuel,
or high test, race gas ,and if your willing to change major components like pistons,
it would also help to know the current compression ratio, heads casting numbers,intake, headers etc.
basically I can easily give you a basic parts list, that allows a 454 to exceed 500 hp,
at the flywheel, but getting it to work correctly in YOUR application is a bit more involved that simply slapping components together, on a basic 454 engine.
so if youve got the info on your particular application ID strongly suggest you post it.
BASICS
most 454 engines came with a rather low compression ratio and oval port heads, ,theres a wide variation in the engine potential in stock form, a 454 with peanut port heads and 8:1 compression , and a cast crank with 3/8" rods is at a disadvantage compared to the performance bbc engine versions, with 11:1 compression ratio big block that came with larger valves, ports and forged components,
but almost all big blocks have a great deal more potential than many small block engines, simply due to the larger displacement and the fact that even peanut port heads ,
with a mild rework out flow stock small block VORTEC HEADS
always, if you deal with any machine shop, assume your dealing with a guy who really doesn,t give a crap, yes there are exceptions but most only want to do minimal work for the money,
and print out in fine detail , what you want done ,,EXACTLY....
with specific dimensions and a diagram,
with ALL those dimensions printed boldly ,
try hard to get both a firm delivery date and a agreed upon total price
IN WRITING WITH HIS SIGNATURE, and several pictures of the parts and him holding the parts and a receipt
that the parts listed individually, to be worked on are in what ever condition they were in, TAKE LOTS OF PICTURES
this will be a minor P.I.T.A. but it will save you a whole lot of misunderstandings and arguments
never deal with any shop that says things like,
"come back next week I should get too it by then"
or "stuff like that generally costs about$300-$400, but I won,t know until I get into the project"
or any shop that won,t give a firm delivery date, price or sign a
receipt, or agree to a firm price... youll see why if you ignore this advice in spades

BTW heres some STOCK AS CAST (#236 casting) PEANUT PORT BBC FLOW NUMBERS
flow as cast /ported
Bad port
.200 137/155
.300 201 /221
.400 230 /257
.500 241 /275
.550 244 281
.600 247/282
Good port .
.200 139/152
.300 199 /220
.400 235 /273
.500 246 /291
.550 249/ 292
.600 249/292




Stock bore 454, 9.8 compression,
Sealed Power L2465F pistons,
Brodix RR ovals
Ede Air gap intake, Holley 770 street Avenger carb
Isky 221/232 - .527/.549, 110 sep hyd flat tappet
91 octane pump
36 degrees

CHP CTQ
3000 285.5 505.6
3500 349.3 524.2
4000 401.9 527.7
4400 454.3 542.3
4500 462.6 539.9
5000 491.0 515.7
5300 505.8 501.2
5500 499.1 476.6
5900 490.1 436.3
__________________


BBC Open Chamber Large Oval Port #049

Ported Intake
.100 76 cfm
.200 152 cfm
.300 228 cfm
.400 271 cfm
.500 315 cfm
.600 341 cfm
.700 348 cfm

Dr J's Ported Exh

.100 68 cfm
.200 134 cfm
.300 162 cfm
.400 214 cfm
.500 242 cfm
.600 261cfm
.700 289 cfm



Intake Valve ported 2.25 Exhaust valve ported 1.94

mark iv blocks

mark v blocks

yes the video's below are a 396 BBC but much of the info is identical

 

[Friar-Tuck]

Gee Grump, I bet there is a good computer person here who could create a type of "Fill in the Blank Build Sheet" with the requirements you would like to have to be able to give someone an educated build reccommendation.
(I'll snoop around for an example.)

Tuck\o/

 

[grumpyvette]

heres a good basic 454-468 displacement build I use fairly often on muscle cars,that are mostly street driven, wanting that old school build sound and power with a manual transmission, it requires a 3.43---3.55,---3.73:1 rear gear and a muncie 4 speed transmission is whats used most commonly, with about 27-29" tires depending on the car and clearances.
youll want 2.125" long tube headers and a low restriction exhaust.
this type of build produces that lopey idle and kick butt acceleration, if you drive it like you stole it.
your power will be in the 3500rpm-6500rpm band, but it will slam you back in the seat in a light weight nova/camaro when you speed shift gears
(manual transmission and a 30-35 lb flywheel preferred,
and give you that true old muscle car feeling, and give you a good chance of running mid 11 second times with decent slicks, suspension mods etc. in a reasonably light car
(under 3500lbs with driver, the less weight the better obviously)

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/old-school-car-craft-bbc-build.2458/

heads, look for good oval ports, like the 049 casting, then add much better springs and clearance for a .670 lift solid lifter flat tappet cam,
and take the effort to pocket port, port match and get a 3 angle valve job.
naturally better heads like TRICKFLOW, BRODIX or AFR oval port heads,
set up for a solid lifter flat tappet cam will work fine.
build the short block to match the heads used and have a minimum compression ratio between 10:1-10.5:1,
if your willing to run race octane gas, or e85 ethanol laced fuel,
power can be increased with higher compression
(talk to your machinist)

example
viewtopic.php?f=52&t=3960&p=10599#p10599

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engine ... ine-build/

http://www.maliburacing.com/patrick_budd_article.htm

heads
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-41300001/

intake
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7561/

cam
race
https://www.crower.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=01355

street/race
https://www.crower.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=01332

rockers
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-1120-16/

a decent 7-8 qt oil pan that fits your car like an example

http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/drag-ra ... l-pans.asp


GET a SCAT forged internally balanced ROTATING ASSEMBLY with ARP 7/16" rod bolts
http://ohiocrank.com/chevbb_rotate.html


http://www.adperformance.com/index.php? ... ath=71_232

add a vacuum secondary old school 850cfm carb with an electric choke (remember mostly street use)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-0-80531/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/finding-a-machine-shop.321/#post-3007

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...on-picking-a-shop-to-do-work.5053/#post-33138

LOOKING FOR A DECENT AUTO MACHINE SHOP, or BODY REPAIR, or CUSTOM SHOP??

the best route to take is by joining a local car club and talking to dozens of guys at the local car shows and rod runs and at the local tracks,
GO TO THE LOCAL TRACK, AND GO TO LOCAL CAR SHOWS<ASK LOTS OF QUESTIONS, TALK TO LOTS OF PEOPLE,
you'll eventually find out which machine shops AND BODY SHOPS do quality work,
and which do sloppy or slipshod work, or take money and never do the work correctly at times.
ALWAYS stamp your parts with your PH# number or some other ID,
and take clear detailed pictures and get signed receipts listed parts, dates,costs and expected work to be done and dates due and take a picture of the guy your talking to and get the receipt
look around the shop! if theres dozens of cars sitting outside , rusting, or stacks of greasy engines you probably don,t want your car joining them.

now if youve got the cash , build a similar 496- 502-540 BBC
increased displacement helps increase torque

http://ohiocrank.com/chev_bb_shortb.html

you might want to read these, for more ideas

http://maliburacing.com/patrick_budd_article.htm

http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles ... 6/A-P1.htm

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-combustion-chambers.2630/page-3#post-77963

http://www.airflowresearch.com/articles ... 7/A-P4.htm

https://www.amazon.com/Clevite-77-M...d=1&keywords=plastigage&qid=1611949792&sr=8-9
every once in awhile I run into some guy that amazes me in that he's never seen or even heard of some basic almost mandatory tool
I was asked to help rebuild an engine in a guys garage, so I brought a few basic tools alone like a torque wrench, bore gauge, feeler gauges and micrometer set, and and at least help point out what needed to be done.
" at least in my mind"
now if your not into rebuilding engines your unlikely to have a bore gauge or set of
micrometer's but when I pull put some plastigauge and start checking clearances and the guy I'm helping is amazed and says he's never seen plastigauge used before??? that's AMAZING
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-few-basic-precision-tools.16344/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/precision-measuring-tools.1390/#post-68194

 

[Motorhead]

This build^^ stroked out to 496. Pro Comp head (Clint would blue print/upgrade depending upon solid tappet cam needs) or the 049 iron. I know the trans will likely be a 400 turbo w/3000 stall. Rear gear in the 3:55-3:73 range. A step up from cruiser, yet below a beast or bruiser BBC. I do understand the much better (AFR I adore) CNC'd big name head. Vehicle weight will vary between a lighten '55 chevy to another short bed Chevrolet truck. I am fortunate to have a very good machinist/builder so near by.

 

[Grumpy]

always do your detailed research, into parts, flow, and interchange compatibility,
before you buy or install heads on any engine ,
but especially if your goal is performance,
the heads you select are CRITICAL too performance.
youll run into videos promoting heads that work reasonably well,
but theres been huge improvements over the decades, and you should also know,
that the better aluminum heads can provide a huge weight reduction,
and in some cases power increase's
and Id strongly suggest trying to use heads that flow over 350 cfm,
on the BBC engines, if performance application.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/big-block-chevy-info.710/#post-72463

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/big-block-head-comparison.319/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-combustion-chambers.2630/page-3#post-77963

 

[Maniacmechanic1]

I know where there is a couple of Motorhome 454 's BBC.
Like to get them.

 

[Maniacmechanic1]

Some of the Heavy Metal 1968-1972 Chevelle Guys have built 454 & 496 BBC that run True 10's & Mid 9's in 1/4 mile Grumpy.
Running Hot race cams & drag gears.
Impressive. With 781 heads hand ported at home also.
Race gas fuel 110-112 motor octane.
FB. Big Block Chevy Performance.
I like those Guys..help them out some days on tough stuff.. Vertex Mags too.

 

[Motorhead]

Yes on the heads are the best investment. Clay Smith or Crower Cams are all I will buy from here on out. Custom ground for exact application. Compression on all 4 motors C & L has done for me are 10:1. Even the mid '70's smogger 350 turned 383. I intend street-street for now.

 

[Motorhead]

This ^^ SS is now on the front burner. My cousin purchased it in 1977 for $2500.00 It has sat since 1979. OG 350 is long gone. A '66 327 resides. A rare highest out put '66 Nova 327 intake tops it off. Had an offer of $450 for it. M21 4 gear & a stout rebuilt 12 bolt w/4:56 gears out back. it has been painted & bondo in '76 for the OG owner drove it year 'round (SALT-n-SAND winters)

 

[Grumpy]

looks like the basis for a rather interesting project, if you decide to re-build or replace,any component,
lets start a discussion and you could ideally post lots of clear pictures during the process.