My Cam Research for the Experts Eye

That checklist is great, I'll def add to it thanks!
I've got one I started as well since the fuel and electrical all need to be checked as well. In my case with rebuilding the whole car I have to stay organized with every system or I'll forget.
I'll have 2 other guys there that know car stuff and we all plan first who does what.
I'll download the list, thanks again.

PS that miata fire shows how fast things can go south. Last car I did as a complete build was a 73 VW beetle. We had added an external oil pump/filter setup to the new engine. Engine started at first bump and about 30 seconds later the oil filter blew off. We all knew what to do and disaster was averted. Used an O'Reilly house brand filter since it was only going to be used about 20 min, then changed. Never again, no matter what I stay with my favorite Wix. Turns out the filter threads were barely cut and just sort of rolled in place. Just couldn't hold any pressure. Now no matter what filter brand I always look for deep cut threading.
 
Wix filter is all I use !

There are a few tricks to finding the longest filter with the correct threads and gasket diameter. Maybe you already know, but if not... what filter number do you use ???
 
Yes I always cross reference to get the longer version. And I also use wix. Don't have the numbers handy for the 454, on our truck 5.3 and van 6.0 they both take the same number. Std is 57060 , I use longer 57045.
 
Your filters sure have a small OD at 2.9" and they have metric threads. How did you come up with that filter adapter for a Chevy ? Mine are 3-5/8" OD with a 13/16 - 16 thread (51060XP).
EDIT: Oh, I see now that's for the truck and van.

- The 51592 filters down to 19 microns and is about 0.4" longer than the 57045.
- The 51087 filters down to 25 microns and is about 0.7" longer than the 57045.
- Both filters above have a 0.6" bigger OD, but the gasket size is very close to the 57045.
- If you stay with the 57045, consider the 57045XP, it has a Synthetic Media instead of the Enhanced Cellulose.
- R means it's for racing application. The flow rate nearly triples and micron rating goes up to 61 from 21.

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The exhaust pushrods arrived, they look very nice. 3/8 x .080, one piece chrome moly for guideplates.
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Be sure to run a pipe cleaner thru the inside to clean the pushrods. Running just solvent thru there won't clean the dirty film off. Wipe down the outside with a rag also, the brush is not going to do a good job.

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I'll def clean the pushrods thoroughly. Got the guides installed today.
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I doubt it but I hope I can use my MT valve covers. I can refurbish them like new but I'll have to see if they clear the roller rockers.
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Looking ahead a bit , I think I will re-use my Performer 2.0 intake vs buying a new RPM.
Underhood space is of consideration, although I can work with the RPM.

But even with a more aggressive cam profile, the heads are the small valve cast iron oval port versions. For the cost of a new intake I'm not sure that I'll see a substantial gain in the target powerband. The heads have been cleaned up in the ports and smoothed out in the chambers.

I've got 2 vac second Holleys, 750 and 850, both of which I've tuned to the previous engine version, and I've used both.

I can always change the intake later and I will try each carb on this engine version to see which works better.
 
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What are your thoughts about a stud girdle ?
I don't think it's needed for my intended rpm range.
I'm also really wanting to re-use those valve covers which may be feasible. But with stud girdles there's no way.
Another factor is vc clearance to brake booster. I'm using a small Bosch unit - I can remove vc with engine in place but I doubt it with tall covers.
 
If I verify valve covers will fit, I'll get them powdercoated a dark gray and then sand the tops of the fins.

Balancer refurbished. I sprayed clear after I installed the tape.
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I also made 3/16 plate lift brackets for a more stable installation. I'll shim them out slightly to clear the valve covers.
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I'll get them powdercoated a dark gray and then sand the tops of the fins.
Will you want the tops of the fins to be shinny or dull ? If shinny, then maybe polishing the fin tops before coating might be the easiest.
 
I'm about to go down rabbit trails about long and short water pumps and pulleys lol.
Current is long pump with 1/2" clear to fans so I know that all fits. But I noticed crank pulley is the large 3 groove 7 3/4 dia. It's big. Pump pulley is 2 groove.
I want a slightly smaller 2 groove crank pulley but problem is belt rides on outer groove of pump and crank pulleys in order to align with alt.
Alt sits in front of head/valve cover so nowhere for it to move back unless I reconfigure all brackets.
 
Well good luck all I can say is .... it's a rabbit hole, that has rabbit holes ! LOL !

Even the manufactures can't agree on the dimensions for a short water pump !
 
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