storing an engine block

Grumpy

The Grumpy Grease Monkey mechanical engineer.
Staff member
grumpy, I'll be receiving a bare Dart engine block that I will need to store indefinitely.
It has been hot tanked, carefully inspected mag tested, and cylinder's were bored, and honed but I'm not ready to have it used in an engine assembly yet and it could be months or maybe years until I have the required funds and time!.

I plan on painting the exterior with the proper color high temp engine enamel,after carefully degreasing the block, but obviously the precision machined deck surfaces, cylinders, bottom end, and the rest of the internal areas will not be painted. What type of oil, or lubricant is the best to coat these surfaces with for long time storage, should I seal in a plastic bag afterward, or is that promoting more condensation build up? And should I reapply at certain intervals?

What do you suggest? Thanks


An engine block can cost you $200-to $4000 then you can easily drop an additional $1000 plus, into machine work getting it machined correctly, so it makes a great deal of sense to keep it in pristine un-rusted condition while in storage, and certainly spending $100 or so on reuse-able storage boxes and bags and spray coatings is a no-brainer if you intend to store the block and expect it to remain in top condition!
well, Id start with a damn good careful cleaning , as moisture is the enemy, most likely to cause problems, so you want a dependable moisture barrier , in place you can depend on once the blocks clean and coated with a good rust preventative grease or wax coating , once the blocks clean, painted and all the moisture removed, it should be wrapped and stored in a air tight container, then ID carefully dry all the surfaces again to be darn sure, with a rag soaked with toluene , to get moisture and any old metallic debris off the machined surfaces, Id use a heat gun to heat the whole damn block then spray all the machined surfaces with the new long term WD 40 has been tested and found too be a good long term moisture repellent

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Id wrap the block in oily news paper then place it in side a carefully duct taped shut engine storage bag, then a second one duct tapped shut and place the block,

http://www.justplasticboxes.com/Large-Airtight-Storage-Container
this size would fit a SBC just fine
Inside dimensions: tapers from 20.5" x 16" at top down to 19.5" x 15" and is 10.75" deep

plastore.jpg

place the sealed box up off the floor on a shelf in the shop, label its contents and it should be fine for the next 10 plus years

http://www.webstaurantstore.com/cam...lat-lid-for-food-storage-box/2141826CPWH.html
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Length 26 Inches
Width 18 Inches
Depth 15 Inches
THIS FITS A BARE BBC BLOCK


shop carefully they are available at a wide verity of sizes quality and prices


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heres one area where harbor freight has a few real good items, the cheap long reach air gun nozzles and brushes come in very handy cleaning oil passages

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=95100
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http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=97014
http://www.harborfreight.com/Air-Blow-G ... 68260.html
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http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=95947

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ruust2.jpg
the new wd40 rust preventative spray works far better and for much longer than the older version
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having some 1000 lb rated to 1500 lb per shelf, rated shelving in most shops makes alot of sense if you store heavy auto parts
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http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/chevy-big-block-vi.9857/#post-37553

heavy40.jpg

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heavy60.jpg

heavy70.jpg


Features:
  • Siamesed Extra-Thick Cylinder Walls: Resists cracking and improves ring seal (minimum .300'' thick with 4.625'' bore).
  • Scalloped Outer Water Jacket Walls: Improves coolant flow around the cylinder barrels to equalize temperatures.
  • Four-Bolt Main Bearing Caps: In steel or ductile iron have splayed outer bolts for extra strength.
  • Crankshaft Tunnel: Has clearance for a 4.500'' stroke crank with steel rods without grinding.
  • True ''Priority Main'' Oil System: Lubricates the main bearings before the lifters.
  • Oil Filter Pad: Drilled and tapped for an external oil pump.
  • Rear Four-Bolt Cap: Uses standard oil pump and two-piece seal - no adapter required!
  • Lifter Valley Head Stud Bosses: Prevent blown head gaskets between head bolts.
  • External Block Machining: Reduces weight without sacrificing strength.
  • Simplified Install : Fuel pump boss, clutch linkage mounts and side & front motor mounts simplfy installation on any chassis.
  • Dual Oil Pan Bolt Patterns: Fits standard and notched oil pans.
  • Bellhousing Flange and Rear Main Bearing: Reinforced with ribs to resist cracks.
  • Note: Does not include cam bearings, freeze plugs, or dowels
 
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They sell it here in Texas, its about 3-4 dollars more than the regular WD 40.
 
I will check Home Depot Friday night after work Richard.
I haven't checked there yet.

I keep finding the New & Improved WD-40 THE SPECIALIST.
$8.99 -10.99 Per Can.
I haven't found WD-40 Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor .
 
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I will check Home Depot Friday night after work Richard.
I haven't checked there yet.

I keep finding the New & Improved WD-40 THE SPECIALIST.
$8.99 -10.99 Per Can.
I haven't found WD-40 Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor .
Hmm......if you use the discount code for 25 to 50% off at Advance Auto. I might have to do an update for the best deals, . . . . . .if anyone is interested?
 
Repost the Advanced Auto Discount codes Richard.
When I am on thier Mobile friendly website they want you to pay ahead of time with Paypal.
If I buy off of Fleabay I use PayPal .
Run to the bank and I put $ in.
Then pay.
 
I always use a debit card, spending only what I have. Most of the time I get free shipping to my home and it only takes 2 or 3 days to get to me.
If l post those discounts and you go to pay retail at O'Rilleys, I swear I'm going out to your house and egg your cars!
 
Lol.
I shop at Napa, O'Reilly , Autozone, Advanced Auto, Menards, Sometimes Home Depot, Summit Racing, FleBay, & small Mom & Pop Auto stores Here.
Checkout for best deals.
 
For those that don't know, there is actually some time spent looking in obscure places searching several changing sites for discounts at many different stores, not just for AA. Then I verify the codes do work before I post. The best one I got was last fall I found some place listing 100's of stores for crazy discounts. One was AA and believe this, I had a lot to buy and the disc. was 55% and free shipping but the max was only $75 so I had to split my list of what I needed something like 6 times but it was well worth it! I even had AA on the phone and had them price match with WM and then the phone rep took all these orders - I had him near rolling on the floor by the time I was finished.
On Feb 2nd I got Mobile 1 for $12.50/case - but I could only get 2 cases at a time. The next day that code didn't work again, boy I wish I got more than just 1 order!
 
I very rarely drive to a store, 90% or better I have it shipped to me in 3 days or less, most times never paying any shipping or sales tax. Only flammables go by ground and a times can take a few more days. I only go to the local stores when in a rush and then it's usually NAPA. There I have a certificate for tax exempt and I have a resellers license for the deepest discounts NAPA will give. The trouble with NAPA is most times what I need is at the warehouse and I have to wait until the next day or even sometimes wait as it comes from the manufacturer. Supplies I stay with Advance Auto.
 
Everything is in THE CHICAGO WHAREHOUSE....As long as I call by 11:00 AM I have the part(s) ready for me after work to pickup.
 
grumpy, I have an assembled short block Ive had sitting on an engine stand and wrapped in a few trash bags for almost two years now, I recently unwrapped it to find light surface rust on the bore walls, what can I do?

well if its basically surface dust rust a lint free cotton rag soaked in WD 40 or marvel mystery oil can be used to wipe it off and you can rotate the engine manually after bringing each bore to BDC and cleaning off the bore walls with the oil soaked rag.
IF the rust is more extensive , I would advise against using something like fine sand paper or a scotch-brite pad without total dis assembly and total cleaning as its sure to leave significant abrasive debris that won,t be easily removed with the pistons and rings still installed.
personally ID suggest disassembling the engine while keeping each labeled piston, connecting rod and bearing set and rings carefully labeled as to the location and cylinder, and then carefully cleaning and possibly doing a light bore hone and careful cleaning before reassembly, making sure all the ring gaps , ring back spacing, bearing clearances etc. and piston bore clearances are correct,
Id also suggest using plasti-gauge to verify clearances on the bearing and inspecting the rings and bearings and crank journals carefully, and using a good oil soaked rag to coat the bore walls before storage next time...btw it helps to store the engine in a cool dry location off the floor where temperatures don,t tend to vary as that can cause condensation, store the engine with the crank facing up and the lifter gallery facing down, and to wrap the engine block and to pour a cup of oil over the crank before the engines resealed in plastic bags and duct tape, rather loosely in the plastic trash bags, and many guys will place a sock with several sheets of news paper in the bag where it will help absorb any minor moisture that does get inside the tapped up plastic trash bags.
a coat of oil, or better yet the WD40 specialist that has a lasting waxy content that won,t evaporate would be good,
ruust2.jpg

Id wrap the block in oily news paper then place it in side a carefully duct taped shut engine storage bag, then a second one duct tapped shut and place the block,
carefully tapeing several plastic trash bags over the block after its oiled to exclude moisture and storing it in a dry area would be nearly mandatory.



btw if your one of those people that think scotch brite pads don,t include abrasive grit, that comes off during use
they shed abrasive debris like a long hair dog in a briar patch

SCOTCHBRITE GRIT CHART
3M Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500 grit
7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448 - Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit
6444 - Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
Blue Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/sto...&submodel=&engine=&Nrpp=&No=&persistYmm=false

this looks like a good value (above)
I have three of these I use in my shop, (below)

not ideal but they have worked for many years but keep in mind I swapped to (4) 8" roller casters as the stock casters were less than ideal.
https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-...ine-stand-69522.html?_br_psugg_q=engine+stand
69522_W3.jpg

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-cus ... 46819.html
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viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1018
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200337094_200337094
prices, sizes and weight carry capacity and having brakes built into the design of the caster, vary so shop carefully
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yes its going to add some expense, (about $80 if you catch these on sale) but if you add the optional larger casters to an engine stand it allows you to maneuver the legs of the stand so they roll over the crane
RELATED INFO

if you have a complete spare engine that you intend to store for years
its old school but I know it works,
(filling a stored engine completely full of fresh oil)

its done, or at least was done.. ALL THE TIME,
it virtually ensures there's zero moisture & rust damage from condensation,
most knowledgable people also back off all rocker's, seal intake and exhaust ports,
for long term storage.
buts so the valve springs are not compressed and cam bearings are not under compression
just remember to pull all the sparkplugs and readjust the rockers,
and manually spin the engine over a few dozen times to work out most of the excess oil,
reset the ignition timing and check coolant levels.
before you re-install the plugs refill the oil to a proper level before trying to start it
exhaust block plates are commonly used
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https://behrents.com/parts/bsc-9017...9cW-DIVgros6KsWnq_7El-v-npEUrzShoCSjIQAvD_BwE


BSC90175-L.jpg

https://behrents.com/parts/bsc-90175.asp

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...c-piston-ring-info-youll-need.509/#post-11324

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/obtaining-desired-clearances.4324/#post-11458

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/chevy-big-block-vi.9857/#post-37553

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-storage-frame-for-your-shop.16499/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tion-of-crank-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/assembly-lube-summary.6352/
 
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