200-4r Rebuild Questions

I don’t know if my math is right because the dvd doesn’t mention the clearance beneath snap ring.
Snap ring #631 ??? You have to be careful when following two different guides. I would
follow CK's method and forget the DVD on this point. The DVD is good for general info like which way
a seal faces. You are building a 200-4R to higher standard.

Isn’t the servo pin supposed to go in the location of the first photo? In the dvd it looks like he simply throws the band in and the pin sits at the location in the second photo.
I really can't tell the difference in the two photos. You probably already know that the anchor from the VB
side fixes the band on one end and the servo applies the band from the other side. Sorry, but needed to make
sure when we are doing this in a forum. So there are only two ways the band can go into the case.

FP14_IntermediateBand_601_03104.jpg

My memory may not be correct after several years. Seems you would have to slip the band into place such that
you can install the anchor into the round hole (from valve body side). Then you can install the servo and pin
and push the pin in until it mates with the band.

I’ve tried both methods and didn’t feel the band move.
Somehow the servo has to push on the pin and clamp the band around the direct drum. When you do the air check,
you have to feel something .... it has to stop the rotation of the direct drum by clamping on it.

Maybe it's time for a video ?

Rear section end play should always be less than the center section end play using CK's procedure. CK's Book page 134.

You sure are taxing my memory !!! :)
 
Sorry for so many questions. I figured out the servo pin was too long. I finally got air pressure to engage the band but the pin may still be too long. It’s hard to figure out the appropriate clearance for the pin. I figured I’d test it out when driving it then grind down the pin a little if I need to.
 
I'm pretty much done with the rebuild but I think I have an extra checkball. I remember one falling out and not figuring how where it went. These are the checkballs I reinstalled.

Check balls: ATSG pg. 23, 71
OEM comes with 9 check balls below vb gasket
55D (2), 3rd accumulator
55E (6), Reverse/3rd
55F (4), 3rd clutch
55G (9), Lo/Detent
55H (10), Lo/Reverse
55J (1), 4th Accumulator
55K (7), Intermediate servo check ball in capsule…. CK pg. 125, 126, 141
55M (3), PT/D3
55N (5), TV exhaust, largest check ball….DISCARDED, CK pg. 141
55A, 55B, 55C, 3 checkballs on VB gasket, atsg pg. 77

I didn't like how the 700-R4 filter fit so I think I'll use the stock 200-4R filter for now, plus the stock one has a longer neck and seems like it sits in the pump better.
 
I'm not sure what's appropriate for you, since it seems you are picking different mods to use. According
to CK's kit for recalibration, below is what he recommends. The complete manual is in your folder and it's
called "200-4R Shift Recalibration Kit 24RSRKA_01".

upload_2020-4-3_11-51-41.png
upload_2020-4-3_11-52-17.png

I didn't like how the 700-R4 filter fit so I think I'll use the stock 200-4R filter for now, plus the stock one has a longer neck and seems like it sits in the pump better.
IIRC, there was a spacer needed to move the pan down and give more room for the filter.
.
 
Did you get the anchor and servo pin issue solved ?

EDIT: Ix-Nay... you will drive and find out.

FWIW, in my rebuild, one of the checkballs was deleted. The mod was from PTS Xtreme which no longer exists.
 
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I finished the 200-4R rebuild a while ago. Thank you to all that helped. Now I need to get my mind back into the project to finish the install. I'm going to use lock up. I need help with the following...

How to install lock up
What torque converter to buy for a daily driver, 350 engine
How to install the transmission to the crossmember

My crossmember was bolted to brackets that were welded on the frame. It is my understanding that the 200-4R transmission will sit a few inches further back compared to the original 2 speed. It will be difficult to cut the bracket off and re-weld without removing the bed. If I weld another bracket directly behind the original one that may not work well. Does anyone have pictures of their a-body with a 200-4R or 700-R4 mounted to the crossmember?

What recommendations do you have?
 
Screen%20Shot%202020-10-15%20at%201.47.47%20AM.png
This might be an option... bolt a steel plate to the original bracket to elongate the area to bolt the crossmember to the new location but I worry about the exhaust having to be modified and the driveshaft lining up with the differential correctly
https://images.app.goo.gl/fMCTzAHxbJeXZG2V7
 
I never got the vacuum switch to work properly, just too sensitive. You could just eliminate the
BLUE wire and vacuum switch in the circuit below and just use the manual switch when you want
the TC to lockup. I have found the manual switch cannot lockup the TQ in 1st gear, it will always
unlock when slowing down and coming to a stop.

Note 2 in drawing - The manual switch will now control lockup in 2, 3 & 4th gear.
Note 3 in drawing - Can be deleted, unless you want to try the vacuum switch yourself.
Note 4 in drawing - You will will not need this switch.

ElectricalDrawingFinal02.jpg

The connector in the side of the trans will have letters for each of the four wires.

FP01_ConnectorRemoved_4430_4433.jpg

If you want something that is fully automatic for the TC lockup, then check out B&M, TCI, Bowtie Overdrive
or any of the major trans companies.

If this is basically a stock 350 sbc, then a 2200 - 2400 rpm stall would be a good choice. If it's not stock, then we need
a lot more info. I don't remember the specifics about your car now.

The driveshaft you have now should work, that dimension did not change. The trans mount will move back 6-5/8".

GMTransDimensions.JPG
.
 

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Thanks for all the info. I'll review your post and try to find the post I read about using a brake switch to control lock up. I have a 359 engine #10066036, a google search came up with this info...

Engine Name: 350 LM1
Horsepower: 249 HP @ 5,000 RPM
Torque: 304 Ft/Lbs @ 3,500 RPM
Compression Ratio: 8.50 to 1
Block: 4 – Bolt, 2 Piece Rear Seal, 4.000” Bore
Crankshaft: Cast Nodular 3.480” Stroke
Heads: Cast Iron, 76cc
Valves: 1.940” / 1.500”
Camshaft lift: 0.390” / 0.410” Hydraulic
Duration @ 0.050”: 195° / 202°
Intake: Not Included

I was told that with a stock 350 it would be better to go with something closer to 1,200 stall to have better fuel efficiency and higher stall will heat up faster. I think for now it may be a good idea to go with the first one below.

1500 stall, stock torque converter in a 1986 cadillac deville
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4996269&cc=1025660&jsn=44508

2000 stall, stock torque converter in a 1986 chevy monte carlo
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4996191&cc=1056237&jsn=44512
 
I was told that with a stock 350 it would be better to go with something closer to 1,200 stall to have better fuel efficiency and higher stall will heat up faster.

You can certainly go that low for the stall, just depends on what you want. Only you can decided that!
Installing a remote trans cooler might be needed, but it should have the one in the radiator. If you
have an IR gun, take the temp of the pan after some 75 mph driving or after some stop-and-go driving.
You have a lockup TC, so actually the highway driving should not be a problem.

Is it a daily driver or a car you drive a couple of times during the week when the weather is nice and you
feel like cruising ???
 
I want to build it to be a daily drive but it will most likely be used only occasionally. My mom really likes it and I may give it to her. I need to put air conditioning in it, maybe vintage air.
Do you think 2,000 stall would be ok for a stock 350? 2,000 stall will probably run a little hotter.
 
I never got the vacuum switch to work properly, just too sensitive. You could just eliminate the
BLUE wire and vacuum switch in the circuit below and just use the manual switch when you want
the TC to lockup. I have found the manual switch cannot lockup the TQ in 1st gear, it will always
unlock when slowing down and coming to a stop.
.

Thank your for the excellent diagram.

I've read you can use a 4th gear pressure switch and cruise control brake light switch for lock-up with the 200-4R instead of the vacuum switch.

Part numbers I've found:
Pressure switch, GM pn 8643710 (2 terminals), GM pn 8642473 (1 terminal)
Brake switch, GM pn 25524848, GM pn 25523463

"The cruise control side of the switch is used for the lockup feed instead of CC. You feed 12 volts from a fused source when the ignition is on, through the cruise control side of the brake light switch to the 4th gear pressure switch in the trans. How it works is when the trans shifts into 4th gear, about 1 second later the converter locks, if the trans downshifts, it unlocks. If you apply the brakes it unlocks."

It would be nice to have both lockup and cruise control in my 64 el camino.
 
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What happens when you are trying to accelerate, even the slightest amount ? Or at WOT?

Looks like the TC will lockup when you don't want it to. That's where the vacuum switch comes
into play, because it will keep the circuit open until the vacuum rises high enough to indicate
very little load or acceleration.
 
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