Hey all , member here , need so insight to an issue I have with my 327
Engine ran perfect , but decided to pull motor and detail engine and compartment, any way one thing lead to another and ended up replacing the top end
Eldbrock aluminum heads and high rise dual plane intake , avs2 carb , switched out to msd hei , new eldbrock.cam , and of course all other required parts ,roller rockers , ect
Car starts fine runs fine , except off the line or WOT there is hesitation, car falls on its face off line unless I ease the clutch out with higher RPM
Timing in perfect , have swapped out carb to rule it out , no change , valves have been re adjusted .
I’ve think I’ve narrowed it down to either dist or intake
Just looking for some input for someone who might have advise ,
There are no vacuum leaks and no change , by passing vacuum advance
Ok got the specs from the speed shop
Check timing @ 3000 rpm
Initial 12
Without vacuum 30
With vacuum 55
Fuel pressure 9psi
total advance should fall in the 34-37 range and at idle 6-8 range for most cars/trucks
go back over all the basics ,
check firing order,
verify fuel pressure, stays consistent
verify carbs not flooding
verify no vacuum leaks
test cylinder compression,
verify ignition spark advance, curve
verify throttle linkage, is allowing full throttle blade opening,
and carb tune, are you getting accelerator pump shots,
verify carb float levels,
verify oil pressure stays above 20 psi minimum
verify ignition spark strength,
verify coil voltage,
correctly adjust valves,
etc
read a few links it sure can't hurt
locating vacume leaks
locating those intake manifold or other vacuum leaks is fairly easy if you have a tachometer and a propane torch yeah the way I find vacuum leaks on carb OR MPFI intake manifolds is clean and easy with no mess. get a propane torch,or you can use your oxy-acetylene welding torch if you have...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
carb tuning info and links
it helps a great deal to know what your working with ,ID suggest starting, by verifying TDC and having the correct timing tape on your damper then,start with 8 degrees btdc and verifying the full advance of 36 degrees total is all in at 3200rpm as a base line, once youve got that, as a standard...
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Stumble On Launch
Hi I try forums to get an advice. The car is a drag race car. Got a new engine 393 with double 1150 carburettors. built for "up to 9500 rpm" So this requires some high stall speed converter, along with the rest. Well, my stall speed seem to be 4500 rpm. My engine seems to have a small problem...
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Holley accelerator pumps/cams
HOLLEY ACCELERATOR PUMP CAMS heres a needle and seat fuel valve Here's a picture, Double Pumper on the left, Vacuum secondary on the right... Note on the upper left of each carb, the DP has linkage attached to the base plate/throttle shaft that actuates the secondary pump lever... The Vacuum...
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engine cuts out but only in first under hard acceleration,
Pretty specific conditions, right? I was messing around the other night, and went full throttle from a dead stop. This car has never been a terror off the line, and will really only bark the tires if I plant it from a dead stop. Engine really doesn't come alive until 3000-3500 rpm. So it did its...
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Its Just Not Running Correctly.. Why?
heres a quote that might get you thinking a bit GUYS,I have a 84 monte that i put a 350 in recently.the engine was fine but the oil pressure dropped very low in the summer in park and i didnt want to put any boltons that i had on it for that reason(heads cam etc)locally a sbc 383 popped up and...
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think logically don,t assume
I have an 82 with just under 80k on it. I was tooling down the road and power just went away. I was able to limp home feathering the throttle to keep it alive. Now in the garage for a while, its starts right up and but will not hold throttle. Goes up to 3k rpm and then loses power. Sounds great...
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correctly adjusting valves
this is an area that causes many newer guys problems ,a slight clicking noise at idle in any hydraulic or solid lifter valve train is usually the result of clearances in the valve train, obviously you should have, some clearance, to allow oil flow thru the lifters to provide lubrication on...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
verifying your real advance curve
you need to start by verifying TDC on the timing tab and damper actually show TRUE TDC. IF that base line (TDC on CRANK AND TIMING TAB) is not correct, everything done after that is based on that TDC, will be wrong...
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timing tabs and indicators
these things are a deceptively simply but necessary component on your engine, they range from the cheap stamped steel, and non adjustable versions to the much nicer adjustable versions, ONE basic thing youll need to know is where TDC, 90,180,270 degrees are located if and when you get involved...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
trouble shooting & rebuilding HEI ignitions
if your ignition is working correctly your getting a hot blue spark, thats got a noticeable audible snap to it if you test an ignition wire by removing it from a plug temporarily and holding it about a 1/3" from a ground like the block,a quick check of your shop manual for the correct advance...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
timing lights
IM only too aware that most guys have a timing light or at least know what they are used for and its just not that glamorous, but its a very necessary tool, and the first step in timing any engine will be a mandatory CHECK to insure the MARKS ON THE DAMPER INDICATE TRUE TDC, FIRST, to be sure...
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