61 c10 Build

BetsyRed63 said:
I've been reading more and more on here lately. Recently switched back to a Holley, or Quick Fuel Brawler rather. Feel like I was fighting a losing battle tuning, which led me to the vacuum issue.

Had an Edelbrock on it before, and it was my first experience using one. I just couldn't ever get that thing dialed in. Bowls always dried out when I didn't start it for 2 days or longer. The Brawler fires up instantly no matter how many days it's been.
I'm not blaming the carb, it's probably 99.9% user error.
Click to expand...
Edelbrock does better on near stock engines
I have not used the AVS series Edelbrock.
Brawler is a good Street Performance Holley.
 
Something to consider is trying out a Wilson or HVH brand USA 100% Tapered Carburetor Spacer.
1.000" & 2.000".
They are considered a Band Aid in the Full Race Cylinder Head and Intake Pro Porting world and scoffed at because correct Porting and Super Tall High Rise intakes you don't need them.
But none of the True Drag Racing intakes fit under a Flat hood.
But You have a Vintage Chevy Truck like Farmtruck on Past Street Outlaws has about anything fits flat hood closed.

I bought and use a Wilson Tapered 1.000" Billet Aluminum Carburetor spacer.
Expensive but it works Fantastic with my Medium high rise Vintage Offenhauser 360 Split plenum single plane intake.
Corrected in my theory wet flow issues light part throttle.
Eaily picked up 20-30 Hp and 50 ft/lbs torque.
Just installed no retuning ahead of time she woke up Hard And Faster.
 

Final layout I am Happy with.
But 93 is too expensive now to daily drive on.
Want to switch over to E85 now its $2.45 per gallon only local.
 
https://pin.it/1HtSc6Q

I put together a Pinterest Pin Link of Pictures screenshots from my phone of my picks of Wilson and High Velocity Heads Tapered Carburetor spacers.
And from Jet Performance they use a different technology that has worked for past Pontiac V8 guys.
The Aluminum spacers from Willson I have found keeps my 4150 Holley Double pumper Carburetors way cooler when its 90F and above outside, touch and they no longer burn my hands from engine heat soak.
Staying cooler.
When I went Full Drag Race Car #10AN Feed and Return lines the Holley BLP 1085 Carb actually stays around 50-70F like Refrigerated now !
Chad Speier Racing Heads he uses the HVH-1 2.000" Tall Spacers on all his 770 Hp -1100 Hp Small Block Chevy Engines Normal Aspirated.
 
B&R Racing said:
Something to consider is trying out a Wilson or HVH brand USA 100% Tapered Carburetor Spacer.
1.000" & 2.000".
They are considered a Band Aid in the Full Race Cylinder Head and Intake Pro Porting world and scoffed at because correct Porting and Super Tall High Rise intakes you don't need them.
But none of the True Drag Racing intakes fit under a Flat hood.
But You have a Vintage Chevy Truck like Farmtruck on Past Street Outlaws has about anything fits flat hood closed.

I bought and use a Wilson Tapered 1.000" Billet Aluminum Carburetor spacer.
Expensive but it works Fantastic with my Medium high rise Vintage Offenhauser 360 Split plenum single plane intake.
Corrected in my theory wet flow issues light part throttle.
Eaily picked up 20-30 Hp and 50 ft/lbs torque.
Just installed no retuning ahead of time she woke up Hard And Faster.
Click to expand...

I have the rpm air gap intake, you think it would still benefit from the tapered spacer?
I saw some reviews that recommended it for only single plane.
Did a gasket change today, and stripped out a carb stud in the manifold. Guess I'm grabbing a helicoil pack for it tomorrow. Didn't even reach correct torque before the stud popped loose.
 
BetsyRed63 said:
I have the rpm air gap intake, you think it would still benefit from the tapered spacer?
I saw some reviews that recommended it for only single plane.
Did a gasket change today, and stripped out a carb stud in the manifold. Guess I'm grabbing a helicoil pack for it tomorrow. Didn't even reach correct torque before the stud popped loose.
Click to expand...
I think it would help a Tapered Carburetor spacer. It's a $150 call decision you have to make yourself.
 
BetsyRed63 said:
I have the rpm air gap intake, you think it would still benefit from the tapered spacer?
I saw some reviews that recommended it for only single plane.
Did a gasket change today, and stripped out a carb stud in the manifold. Guess I'm grabbing a helicoil pack for it tomorrow. Didn't even reach correct torque before the stud popped loose.
Click to expand...
Supposed to be made in the USA.
Hopefully the Unmelted Ignot Aluminum blocks too, not China.
 
B&R Racing said:
I think it would help a Tapered Carburetor spacer. It's a $150 call decision you have to make yourself.
Click to expand...
Read more about them, definitely going to try one.
I try to find everything I possibly can made in the USA. Get all my tees from All American Clothing. $12.95 and the cotton comes from local farms.
 
Took the intake off, replaced the gaskets with a fresh set of Felpro , ran a bead around all ports, thick bead on front and back of block. I followed the guide on this site actually. Used a punch to dimple the front and back of the block, and manifold.
Let it sit for 24 hours, and still getting a vacuum reading of 10-12
There seemed to be a lot of build up on the valve stems for being such a fresh build.

I bought the intake used, wondering if it could possibly be cracked.
 
or the heads were deck milled or heads or intake manifold were angle milled at some point
or the valve seals are shot/worn,
or defective or
the wrong part number was used,
or the valve guides are seriously worn


related info
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/milling-heads-and-intakes.2988/#post-7845

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...to-find-out-what-size-valve-stem-seals.16428/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/removing-valve-seals.4283/#post-96765

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-combustion-chambers.2630/page-2#post-54342

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ke-manifold-distributor.464/page-2#post-35307

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...anging-valve-springs-on-the-car.404/#post-496

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/removing-valve-seals.4283/#post-96765

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...mpressors-and-checking-springs.903/#post-1465

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...eplacing-oil-seals-in-heads.14660/#post-78667

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...gree-valve-seats-tpi-motors.14662/#post-98674

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ting-up-the-valve-train.181/page-2#post-96257

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-seat-runout.15104/page-2#post-96115

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-seal-selection.10469/#post-43881

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oily-crud-on-intake-valves.12083/#post-57903

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-loads-and-installed-height.10709/#post-46662

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-guide-cutting.8382/#post-29239
 
Last edited:
Grumpy said:
or the heads were deck milled or heads or intake manifold were angle milled at some point
or the valve seals are shot/worn,
or defective or
the wrong part number was used,
or the valve guides are seriously worn
Click to expand...

A lot of possibilities I suppose. I'll try to narrow it down this weekend.
 
Grumpy said:
or the heads were deck milled or heads or intake manifold were angle milled at some point
or the valve seals are shot/worn,
or defective or
the wrong part number was used,
or the valve guides are seriously worn


related info
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/milling-heads-and-intakes.2988/#post-7845

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...to-find-out-what-size-valve-stem-seals.16428/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/removing-valve-seals.4283/#post-96765

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-combustion-chambers.2630/page-2#post-54342

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ke-manifold-distributor.464/page-2#post-35307

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...anging-valve-springs-on-the-car.404/#post-496

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/removing-valve-seals.4283/#post-96765

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...mpressors-and-checking-springs.903/#post-1465

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...eplacing-oil-seals-in-heads.14660/#post-78667

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...gree-valve-seats-tpi-motors.14662/#post-98674

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ting-up-the-valve-train.181/page-2#post-96257

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-seat-runout.15104/page-2#post-96115

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-seal-selection.10469/#post-43881

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oily-crud-on-intake-valves.12083/#post-57903

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-loads-and-installed-height.10709/#post-46662

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/valve-guide-cutting.8382/#post-29239
Click to expand...

Thank you very much for the links! I was planning on searching the site for this info this evening. Saved me some time, I appreciate that.
 
Tried to find a leak down tester, but everywhere I went were sold out. Really seems like valve seals. Smokes when I start it now, then goes away. If I let it idle, then give it gas, it smokes, then goes away.
Maybe this is my excuse to upgrade the heads...
 
Used the Lucas break in oil, went and ran it hard. Now I have oil drops everywhere under it. Starter is covered, like the rear main seal is leaking. I can't find any leaks in the top end, and it would never leave a drip beforehand. Put on some new felpro cork/rubber valve cover gaskets, I did see a tiny bit of seepage, but nothing significant.

Had a guy offer me 8 grand for this truck last year, I may need to rethink my life choices lol.
 
BetsyRed63 said:
Used the Lucas break in oil, went and ran it hard.
Click to expand...
How many miles did you run the break-in oil ?

If you run hold it in 2nd if it's a 3 speed (or 3rd if a 4 speed) gear up to about 3500 rpm and
coast down to about a 1000 rpm, then when you get back on the throttle and it smokes alot
that indicates valve seals. The high vacuum while you are coasting draws the oil past the seals
and into the intake port, when you get back on the throttle all that oil gets burned and you
see it as smoke in the exhaust.
 
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