61 c10 Build

How many miles did you run the break-in oil ?

If you run hold it in 2nd if it's a 3 speed (or 3rd if a 4 speed) gear up to about 3500 rpm and
coast down to about a 1000 rpm, then when you get back on the throttle and it smokes alot
that indicates valve seals. The high vacuum while you are coasting draws the oil past the seals
and into the intake port, when you get back on the throttle all that oil gets burned and you
see it as smoke in the exhaust.

I actually did a break in when I first put the motor in. I fired it up, and ran it at 2500 or 3000 rpms for 20 minutes give or take. It was back in 2013 or so when I did it, so I don't remember the exact procedure I followed, but it was roughly in that range.
I bought the motor, it sat for almost a year before I put it in.
After the break in, I only put a few hundred miles on it, then it sat for a while once again. I recently started driving it more often.

I just went and drove it about 20 miles.
 
I've got some serious black spots from the exhaust where I park and run it.
I'll go drive it and run it in 2nd like you mentioned.
 
Used the Lucas break in oil, went and ran it hard. Now I have oil drops everywhere under it. Starter is covered, like the rear main seal is leaking. I can't find any leaks in the top end, and it would never leave a drip beforehand. Put on some new felpro cork/rubber valve cover gaskets, I did see a tiny bit of seepage, but nothing significant.

Had a guy offer me 8 grand for this truck last year, I may need to rethink my life choices lol.
There is A Serious Blowby Issue now, was there before switching to Lucas Break in oil.
I read up on Lucas Break in oil and it has huge amounts of Zinz in it almost 4,000 parts per million, too much of it, causes deposits to form in the piston rings grooves causing them too stick and forms a tough film that piston rings can not overcome, light cylinder wall glazing taking place causing even more crankcase pressure Blowby.
So much it blows past every gasket and seal.
Telling you to use Royal Purple mineral break in oil or Lucas Break in was a mistake.
Should have stated to only use Royal Purple Break In Oil what I used earlier this year in my 76 Pontiac 455 engine.
Try and give people options.
Should have told you use my only option personal choice but I am often hated for that.
 
Last edited:
I actually did a break in when I first put the motor in. I fired it up, and ran it at 2500 or 3000 rpms for 20 minutes give or take. It was back in 2013 or so when I did it, so I don't remember the exact procedure I followed, but it was roughly in that range.
I bought the motor, it sat for almost a year before I put it in.
After the break in, I only put a few hundred miles on it, then it sat for a while once again. I recently started driving it more often.

I just went and drove it about 20 miles.
Dump the Lucas, save it for Chainsaw Bar oil this fall.
I chainsaw Wood , used motor oil good for that.
 
I actually did a break in when I first put the motor in. I fired it up, and ran it at 2500 or 3000 rpms for 20 minutes give or take. It was back in 2013 or so when I did it, so I don't remember the exact procedure I followed, but it was roughly in that range.
I bought the motor, it sat for almost a year before I put it in.
After the break in, I only put a few hundred miles on it, then it sat for a while once again. I recently started driving it more often.

I just went and drove it about 20 miles.
Royal Purple Breakin 6 quarts will cost around $55.00.
None local have it.
Have to order from Summit Racing or Jegs Racing.

I recommend otherwise only Castrol Dino 10w30 oil and oil filter.
Fresh set of spark plugs .
Go for a ride.
Need to get up to Operating temp.
Run her to 80, 100, 120+ mph High Gear Full Load 6000+ rpms.
Let off the gas coat down to 20-30 mph.
Repeat 10-20 times.
All Deposits removed from piston ring grooves and cylinder walls.
Piston ring seal 100% optimal then.
Should be.

Other option is complete engine teardown overhaul.
There are not enough parts to rebuild or build a New SBC now.
National Worldwide parts shortages.
Same for Big Chevy.
Either you have the parts put away or do not.
Cleavite main and Rod bearings shortages.
H and P series.
You name it hard to find or impossible now.
 
I've got some serious black spots from the exhaust where I park and run it.
I'll go drive it and run it in 2nd like you mentioned.
Black spots because so much blow by,
Burning super dirty now inefficient.
What they do also spew pure crap out exhaust
 

Breaking in the Isky 280 Mega Hydraulic Cam and Isky 202HY Flat Tappet Lifters, water temp up and oil temps coming up.
 
https://pin.it/29pBVRx

Documented Proof in my Pinterest Link I used Royal Purple 10w30 Mineral grade Break In Engine oil and then Royal Purple XPR 10w40 Racing Oil I am still using now.
Also a K&N HP 2003 Racing Filter cut open showing Zero 0 metal debris.
Pure clean inside and working Perfectly the oiling system on my 76 Pontiac 455 engine.
 
There is A Serious Blowby Issue now, was there before switching to Lucas Break in oil.
I read up on Lucas Break in oil and it has huge amounts of Zinz in it almost 4,000 parts per million, too much of it, causes deposits to form in the piston rings grooves causing them too stick and forms a tough film that piston rings can not overcome, light cylinder wall glazing taking place causing even more crankcase pressure Blowby.
So much it blows past every gasket and seal.
Telling you to use Royal Purple mineral break in oil or Lucas Break in was a mistake.
Should have stated to only use Royal Purple Break In Oil what I used earlier this year in my 76 Pontiac 455 engine.
Try and give people options.
Should have told you use my only option personal choice but I am often hated for that.

I chose the wrong one I suppose, but it's up to me to take the info I'm given and research, then make my own decisions. You made some good points with Royal Purple, and I should've gotten that one.
I'll dump it, and replace it.

I did have some carb issues, it was running really rich, leaned it out a touch, and the smoking stopped.

I have zero parts for a rebuild, hopefully it doesn't come to that.
Compression was good in all but 2 cylinders. #2 was 140 psi. I squirted a bit of oil in the cylinder, and compression didn't improve, maybe 1 or 2 psi.
The rest were at 165, and except #3 I think was 155.

I really appreciate all of the info from everyone.
 
Royal Purple Breakin 6 quarts will cost around $55.00.
None local have it.
Have to order from Summit Racing or Jegs Racing.

I recommend otherwise only Castrol Dino 10w30 oil and oil filter.
Fresh set of spark plugs .
Go for a ride.
Need to get up to Operating temp.
Run her to 80, 100, 120+ mph High Gear Full Load 6000+ rpms.
Let off the gas coat down to 20-30 mph.
Repeat 10-20 times.
All Deposits removed from piston ring grooves and cylinder walls.
Piston ring seal 100% optimal then.
Should be.

Other option is complete engine teardown overhaul.
There are not enough parts to rebuild or build a New SBC now.
National Worldwide parts shortages.
Same for Big Chevy.
Either you have the parts put away or do not.
Cleavite main and Rod bearings shortages.
H and P series.
You name it hard to find or impossible now.

This has all been very helpful.
Would it be wise to dump the Lucas, and switch to the Castrol dino, run it as you mentioned, then switch to Royal Purple?
 
This has all been very helpful.
Would it be wise to dump the Lucas, and switch to the Castrol dino, run it as you mentioned, then switch to Royal Purple?
Castrol GTX 10W30 Dinosaur Mineral Grade Oil is Good stuff I have used for Decades since 1987 year
It used to have a High Zinc ZDDP Content.
EPA made all the store bought oil manufacturers take most of the Zinc out.
There is still Zinc in Castrol GTX but not as much as there used to be.
Castrol GTX is what I use in my 1999 Chevy Tahoe Vortech 350 engine still going strong with 324,000 miles on the Original engine never opened up yet for repairs.
Also use Castrol GTX 10w30 Conventional Dino oil in my 87 Corvette Convertible it has 202,000 miles on it.
Both Factory Roller cam equipped.

Looking researching past few days True Racing Oils - Royal Purple XPR & REDLINE 30WT (10w30) Are indeed the Very Best - all Positive Feedback no cam and lifter failures , optimal piston ring seal, Zero main and Rod bearing failures and Zero wear found on engine teardowns.

Feedback from others is what I look for.
Proof from Running engines ran hard.

Ricky Royal Purple HPS Street Hotrod oil is Good stuff too his T-bucket still going he never blew the 400 ci engine up.

Oil tests online are flawed, 540 Rat blew up his 540 BBC I read on Yellow Bullet Drag Racing Forum.
Cam and lifter failures and he is the online oil expert.
Of course guys on Yellow Bullet Drag Racing Teased him away.

Castrol GTX 10W30 affordable at Wally World Walmart local $19 a jug of 5-quarts .
 
Castrol GTX 10W30 Dinosaur Mineral Grade Oil is Good stuff I have used for Decades since 1987 year
It used to have a High Zinc ZDDP Content.
EPA made all the store bought oil manufacturers take most of the Zinc out.
There is still Zinc in Castrol GTX but not as much as there used to be.
Castrol GTX is what I use in my 1999 Chevy Tahoe Vortech 350 engine still going strong with 324,000 miles on the Original engine never opened up yet for repairs.
Also use Castrol GTX 10w30 Conventional Dino oil in my 87 Corvette Convertible it has 202,000 miles on it.
Both Factory Roller cam equipped.

Looking researching past few days True Racing Oils - Royal Purple XPR & REDLINE 30WT (10w30) Are indeed the Very Best - all Positive Feedback no cam and lifter failures , optimal piston ring seal, Zero main and Rod bearing failures and Zero wear found on engine teardowns.

Feedback from others is what I look for.
Proof from Running engines ran hard.

Ricky Royal Purple HPS Street Hotrod oil is Good stuff too his T-bucket still going he never blew the 400 ci engine up.

Oil tests online are flawed, 540 Rat blew up his 540 BBC I read on Yellow Bullet Drag Racing Forum.
Cam and lifter failures and he is the online oil expert.
Of course guys on Yellow Bullet Drag Racing Teased him away.

Castrol GTX 10W30 affordable at Wally World Walmart local $19 a jug of 5-quarts .

I'm typically that way with anything I research. Sometimes I jump the gun.
But, I like to go with actual user feedback in real world applications for a lot of things. Especially these days of the huge amount influencers.
 
I'm typically that way with anything I research. Sometimes I jump the gun.
But, I like to go with actual user feedback in real world applications for a lot of things. Especially these days of the huge amount influencers.
There is Labratory testing results.
Then actual results proven in a Running engine today what I do.
I am sponsored by none.
It can not blow up for me any.
D-days 2021 .
Mechanical oil pressure guage and Mechanical Oil Temp Guage tells no lies on A Pontiac V8 455.
Hardest engine to build right.
Do it my own way .
 
I try to stay as far as I can from Wally World, and Amazon. It's about $10 cheaper than O'Reilly though.
SAME HERE.
Autozone and Walmart I avoid much As I can.
Behind National Riots 2020

Have Rural King local, midwest Farm supply store the have Castrol GTX.
 
SAME HERE.
Autozone and Walmart I avoid much As I can.
Behind National Riots 2020

Have Rural King local, midwest Farm supply store the have Castrol GTX.

I don't think our local farm supply has it unfortunately. I really try to get everything from mom & pop shops, and made in USA.
I spend hours and hours researching made in USA parts for the furniture I make. Also american leather. The tanneries are behind 10-12 weeks on sides.
 
I don't think our local farm supply has it unfortunately. I really try to get everything from mom & pop shops, and made in USA.
I spend hours and hours researching made in USA parts for the furniture I make. Also american leather. The tanneries are behind 10-12 weeks on sides.
I got my friends 1990 Chevy C1500 going for him this past weekend.
Installed a used 700R4 and correct adjust the TV Throttle valve cable.
A friend just called me, Diesel Semi Trucks are Dieing now, no spare DPFE Sensors anywhere.
Many sitting since Mach 2021.
No way to bypass Common Rail Fuel injection DPFE EPA Mandated systems must be used with all functional.

Old Cars and Trucks Gasoline with Carburetors are Gold And Diamonds now.
Same with Semi Trucks Mechanical injection distributor head layout.
Zero Computers.
Chevy , Ford, Dodge Pre 2000 year are Gold too.
SBC 350 Vortech iron a good one yet my 1999 Chevy Tahoe
 
I got my friends 1990 Chevy C1500 going for him this past weekend.
Installed a used 700R4 and correct adjust the TV Throttle valve cable.
A friend just called me, Diesel Semi Trucks are Dieing now, no spare DPFE Sensors anywhere.
Many sitting since Mach 2021.
No way to bypass Common Rail Fuel injection DPFE EPA Mandated systems must be used with all functional.

Old Cars and Trucks Gasoline with Carburetors are Gold And Diamonds now.
Same with Semi Trucks Mechanical injection distributor head layout.
Zero Computers.
Chevy , Ford, Dodge Pre 2000 year are Gold too.
SBC 350 Vortech iron a good one yet my 1999 Chevy Tahoe

This truck is my daily driver, the wife has a nice Toyota we take to town. I use this truck to do lumber runs, and just to cruise.
I'm not particularly interested in all of the "smart" stuff everywhere now. Keep it simple.
 
Back
Top