61 c10 Build

This truck is my daily driver, the wife has a nice Toyota we take to town. I use this truck to do lumber runs, and just to cruise.
I'm not particularly interested in all of the "smart" stuff everywhere now. Keep it simple.
Dont forget the New set of spark plugs.
Like Pontiac Snall Block Chevy used 13/16" Socket Hex gasket .460" reach spark plugs 1955-1971.
1972 & up classic iron uses 5/8" Hex Peanut style Tapered Seat Spark plugs.
I would gap at .035". .040" is Ok.
Once Lucas is out and Castrol 10w30 in your going to have to pour the coals on to reseat the piston rings.
I have done it several times it works.
How the old Timers did it
Italian Tuneup.
 
Dont forget the New set of spark plugs.
Like Pontiac Snall Block Chevy used 13/16" Socket Hex gasket .460" reach spark plugs 1955-1971.
1972 & up classic iron uses 5/8" Hex Peanut style Tapered Seat Spark plugs.
I would gap at .035". .040" is Ok.
Once Lucas is out and Castrol 10w30 in your going to have to pour the coals on to reseat the piston rings.
I have done it several times it works.
How the old Timers did it
Italian Tuneup.

I picked up the oil, k&n filter and new plugs. About to change it all out, and go run it.
 
Change the plugs, oil & filter. Ran her hard as mentioned. Just now got home, still dripping.
It was smoking at first, but after running it hard 20 times, it stopped smoking.

Maybe some Lucas was working out of there.
I know I just did the manifold, and valve cover gaskets, but I can't for the life of me find any type of trail coming from the top end. Dry as a bone up there.
Going to clean it up again, and drive it tomorrow. Will check vacuum & compression then too.
 
Change the plugs, oil & filter. Ran her hard as mentioned. Just now got home, still dripping.
It was smoking at first, but after running it hard 20 times, it stopped smoking.

Maybe some Lucas was working out of there.
I know I just did the manifold, and valve cover gaskets, but I can't for the life of me find any type of trail coming from the top end. Dry as a bone up there.
Going to clean it up again, and drive it tomorrow. Will check vacuum & compression then too.
Nice work.
Use engine degreaser like Gunk Original then hose it off with the garden hose.
You can wipe it down with a solvent like mineral spirits paint thinner and large rag.
Gasoline can be used but flashpoint is low can catch yourself on fire so I don't use Gasoline as a cleaner solvent no more.

May need a pan gasket.
2-piece rear main seal on a SBC can be changed in the truck but it's hard work.
Probably a little Blowby but should improve driving.
 
Nice work.
Use engine degreaser like Gunk Original then hose it off with the garden hose.
You can wipe it down with a solvent like mineral spirits paint thinner and large rag.
Gasoline can be used but flashpoint is low can catch yourself on fire so I don't use Gasoline as a cleaner solvent no more.

May need a pan gasket.
2-piece rear main seal on a SBC can be changed in the truck but it's hard work.
Probably a little Blowby but should improve driving.

It's pretty clean, I kept it pretty tight. Maybe why it's so hard to track this leak down. It's not a real small leak either. Vacuum is still low, around 12. It's all over the oil pan, Trans pan and starter. Flywheel must be throwing it on everything too.

I can run my hand on the China wall, and back of valve covers, and it's dry.
I sure don't want to have to change that rear seal.
 
It's pretty clean, I kept it pretty tight. Maybe why it's so hard to track this leak down. It's not a real small leak either. Vacuum is still low, around 12. It's all over the oil pan, Trans pan and starter. Flywheel must be throwing it on everything too.

I can run my hand on the China wall, and back of valve covers, and it's dry.
I sure don't want to have to change that rear seal.
It doesn't take much crankcase pressure piston ring Blowby to cause an oil leak.
Be sure to check the PCV Valve.
Fram parts store brand is Ok
They all have different flow calibration rates for different engines .
It's been covered here in the archives.
Look one up for a 1978 Chevy Z28 Camaro be a good one to start with.
If no PCV consider adding one.
I use one in the 76 Pontiac 455, that mounts in the pushrod cover on mine.
Like Factory Air gap style intake.
Mopar 440 did it same way.
PCV valve is important on a Street engine.
Full Race engine you have only 3-4 inches of Vacuum at idle.
Need different methods of crankcase ventilation used then.
Rear main seal leaking on a Pontiac V8 you must pull the engine out the car.
Nightmare
Been there in past.
Other 455s I had.
Used a Best Grapgite Pontiac V8 455 rear main rope seal. Perfect seal no leaks !

CHEVY USE A FEL PRO REAR MAIN SEAL.
 
It doesn't take much crankcase pressure piston ring Blowby to cause an oil leak.
Be sure to check the PCV Valve.
Fram parts store brand is Ok
They all have different flow calibration rates for different engines .
It's been covered here in the archives.
Look one up for a 1978 Chevy Z28 Camaro be a good one to start with.
If no PCV consider adding one.
I use one in the 76 Pontiac 455, that mounts in the pushrod cover on mine.
Like Factory Air gap style intake.
Mopar 440 did it same way.
PCV valve is important on a Street engine.
Full Race engine you have only 3-4 inches of Vacuum at idle.
Need different methods of crankcase ventilation used then.
Rear main seal leaking on a Pontiac V8 you must pull the engine out the car.
Nightmare
Been there in past.
Other 455s I had.
Used a Best Grapgite Pontiac V8 455 rear main rope seal. Perfect seal no leaks !

CHEVY USE A FEL PRO REAR MAIN SEAL.

I have a pcv now, and the valve covers have baffles.
Was just looking out there with a flashlight, and saw a green dot by the front left water port of the manifold. Between the valve cover and manifold. I did a really good job cleaning, and sealing the manifold, but it definitely looks like it has a leak.

I did notice some stuff in the water jackets of the manifold when I had it off. It looked like some type of putty with paint over it, and makes me think someone tried to repair it.
 
I have a pcv now, and the valve covers have baffles.
Was just looking out there with a flashlight, and saw a green dot by the front left water port of the manifold. Between the valve cover and manifold. I did a really good job cleaning, and sealing the manifold, but it definitely looks like it has a leak.

I did notice some stuff in the water jackets of the manifold when I had it off. It looked like some type of putty with paint over it, and makes me think someone tried to repair it.
You could try retorqueing the intake manifold down.
It's real common issue on used intake manifolds, corrosion around the water ports.
Old Vintage intakes most don't want outdated, Survivors I call them, Aluminum is in great shape.
I think better USA Alloy Aluminum used back then.
Somebody probably used J-B weld.
It's ok acceptable if it dries and sanded flat flush
Tig welded be better but then have to mill the intake.
Really don't want to mill SBC intakes much.
Same Pontiac V8, get into alignment issues.
All China intakes Famous for warping, or out of true flat day one bad machine work.
Edelbrock supposedly to be dead on Flat day 1 new
 
You could try retorqueing the intake manifold down.
It's real common issue on used intake manifolds, corrosion around the water ports.
Old Vintage intakes most don't want outdated, Survivors I call them, Aluminum is in great shape.
I think better USA Alloy Aluminum used back then.
Somebody probably used J-B weld.
It's ok acceptable if it dries and sanded flat flush
Tig welded be better but then have to mill the intake.
Really don't want to mill SBC intakes much.
Same Pontiac V8, get into alignment issues.
All China intakes Famous for warping, or out of true flat day one bad machine work.
Edelbrock supposedly to be dead on Flat day 1 new

I think it may be slightly warped, the bolts on the rear driver side were a little hard to get started. Nothing crazy, but it wasn't normal. Maybe why the vacuum has always been low.
I cleaned and sealed everything extremely well.
Summit doesn't even have an rpm air gap that'll ship until next year.
 
I actually did a break in when I first put the motor in. I fired it up, and ran it at 2500 or 3000 rpms for 20 minutes give or take.
Normally break-in oil is changed after the initial 20-30 minutes, then again after 500 miles. After 500
miles you change to what ever oil you plan on using from then on.

I did have some carb issues, it was running really rich, leaned it out a touch, and the smoking stopped.
So is your problem solved then ?
Oil being burned produces white smoke, a rich condition will produce a black smoke.
 
Normally break-in oil is changed after the initial 20-30 minutes, then again after 500 miles. After 500
miles you change to what ever oil you plan on using from then on.


So is your problem solved then ?
Oil being burned produces white smoke, a rich condition will produce a black smoke.

I did an oil change at 500 miles.

It was smoking at idle, but it wasn't a black smoke, more blueish gray. Leaning it out seemed to make it better.
But, when I drove it yesterday it was rolling smoke pretty good on acceleration, and coasting down. It did seem to lesson the more I'd drive.
Wonder if it was the flywheel throwing it on the headers.

Something still seems off. Seems like a lot of issues with such low mileage. It did sit a long time in the west Texas weather. Extreme heat, a blizzard we had a few years ago, dust storms, rinse and repeat.

I'm sure the valve seats could've hardened in that time sitting.
 
Still leaking pretty bad. Not really wet around the air seal, or the top end. I know oil can find a crevice to seep through and make it hard to see. Maybe I'm just missing something up top. But I can run my hand on that back wall, and come out dry.
It's just the obvious choice since I just replaced manifold & valve cover gaskets. Didn'tleak a drop before that. I even sealed it better this time, than I did the first time I put it on.
 
I did an oil change at 500 miles.
Was it break in oil ?

But, when I drove it yesterday it was rolling smoke pretty good on acceleration, and coasting down.
It's when you get back on the throttle after coasting and you get a puff of smoke out the exhaust that indicates valve seals.

Instead of driving it and then looking for a leak. Try cleaning it up and then letting it run in the driveway for awhile, then look for the leak. Driving it blows the oil everywhere making it hard to determine the location of the leak.
 
Was it break in oil ?


It's when you get back on the throttle after coasting and you get a puff of smoke out the exhaust that indicates valve seals.

Instead of driving it and then looking for a leak. Try cleaning it up and then letting it run in the driveway for awhile, then look for the leak. Driving it blows the oil everywhere making it hard to determine the location of the leak.

The builder I bought it from said he filled it with break in oil for me. Hindsight, I should've drained it, and filled it myself.

I let it run in the driveway, and I don't see any leaks. It's almost like I have to drive it to get the oil to leak.
 
Was it break in oil ?


It's when you get back on the throttle after coasting and you get a puff of smoke out the exhaust that indicates valve seals.

Instead of driving it and then looking for a leak. Try cleaning it up and then letting it run in the driveway for awhile, then look for the leak. Driving it blows the oil everywhere making it hard to determine the location of the leak.

I will run it again this evening in the driveway, and see if I can find anything.
 
Was it break in oil ?


It's slowly coming back to me, it's been 8 years since I did the break in, and I haven't even put 1000 miles on it yet.
I remember changing the oil after the initial break in, then again approximately 500 miles. Had to ask my nephew, he helped me finish it up that day.

Found a leak down tester in stock, going to grab one today. I'm having trouble reproducing anything consistently.
 
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I've only had time to check 3 cylinders, 2 that had low compression readings, and one normal.
The leak down on all 3 was 100-96, and the air was coming through the carb, as well as the dip stick tube on all 3 cylinders.

Checked the rest, all are between 100-94 to 96 except #7 which is 100-88.

Took the valve cover off, couldn't see anything with the valves that stuck out to me. Pressure dropped a few psi. Added oil to the cylinder, and it jumped from 85 to 93. Seems like ring issues or something in the cylinder on #7.
 
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Truck was pretty cold by the time I checked #7 yesterday.
Warmed it up today, re checked it and it was 100-96 4% leak.
I've got 4-7% leak down between all cylinders. Has me stumped, with the massive amount of oil consumption.

I did give the #7 valves a little love tap yesterday. Maybe those are sticking.
 
excessive oil consumption can be related to worn valve guides,
worn valve seals or worn or improperly installed piston rings ,
or in limited cases issues related to piston to bore clearance .
this generally is where the piston is too small for the bore or ,
\the piston grooves or rings are damaged due to detonation related issues

related info

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...on-ring-info-youll-need.509/page-2#post-77508

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/piston-slap.6342/#post-85192

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-grooves-and-related-info.1797/#post-36469

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...pull-it-down-and-investigate.5893/#post-38932

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ore-clearance-on-your-block.14251/#post-72471

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...on-ring-info-youll-need.509/page-2#post-71538

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/piston-to-bore-clearance.4630/#post-12416

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...plate-honing-makes-a-differance.588/#post-869

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/#post-10316

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-piston-ring-grooves-and-related-info.1797/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...block-cylinder-wall-thickness.976/#post-22976

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-few-basic-precision-tools.16344/#post-99006

fowlerbore.png


dialborega.png

http://www.tooltopia.com/fowler-72-646-300.aspx


 
Last edited:
excessive oil consumption can be related to worn valve guides,
worn valve seals or worn or improperly installed piston rings ,
or in limited cases issues related to piston to bore clearance .
this generally is where the piston is too small for the bore or ,
\the piston grooves or rings are damaged due to detonation related issues

related info

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...on-ring-info-youll-need.509/page-2#post-77508

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/piston-slap.6342/#post-85192

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-grooves-and-related-info.1797/#post-36469

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...pull-it-down-and-investigate.5893/#post-38932

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ore-clearance-on-your-block.14251/#post-72471

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...on-ring-info-youll-need.509/page-2#post-71538

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/piston-to-bore-clearance.4630/#post-12416

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...plate-honing-makes-a-differance.588/#post-869

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/#post-10316

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-piston-ring-grooves-and-related-info.1797/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...block-cylinder-wall-thickness.976/#post-22976

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/a-few-basic-precision-tools.16344/#post-99006

fowlerbore.png


dialborega.png

http://www.tooltopia.com/fowler-72-646-300.aspx



Appreciate the links. I'll research all of this tonight.
I didn't really nail anything down with the leak down test. Unless something weird happened in #7
There may have been a slightly higher of volume of air coming through the carb than the other cylinders had.
 
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