64 chevelle dissection/resurrection

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This is the best deal I have found online for industrial quality Glass Beads.
No Name brand.
Exact same I used to use at one of my old jobs 4-5 years ago now.
I worked at Midwest Fuel Injection here in Illinois.
Did alot of glassbeading in the huge blast cabinet.

To blast the entire Chevelle with you need 20-30 bags I estimate.
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
Work on different blast media options next.
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Think im going to try the fine slag (red label) from tractor supply. I currently have the medium (black label). My problem might lie in the nozzle as well as I did read that the medium calls for a 5/16 and I have a 1/8 nozzle. The finer media I hope fixes my issues. Btw I like that sieve I'll have to look for one. Maybe hit up the local swap meet since I am in mining country so someone may have one.
 
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Sold by Amazon & on Ebay by different sellers.
Highest quality glass beads made.
Extra fine for delicate cleanup work like engine & transmission parts.
Its super expensive only want to use in a blast cabinet.
 
rjs89ia said:
Think im going to try the fine slag (red label) from tractor supply. I currently have the medium (black label). My problem might lie in the nozzle as well as I did read that the medium calls for a 5/16 and I have a 1/8 nozzle. The finer media I hope fixes my issues. Btw I like that sieve I'll have to look for one. Maybe hit up the local swap meet since I am in mining country so someone may have one.
Click to expand...
OK. Find the Coal slag I use next on steel.
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
XLdOiSP.png


This is the best deal I have found online for industrial quality Glass Beads.
No Name brand.
Exact same I used to use at one of my old jobs 4-5 years ago now.
I worked at Midwest Fuel Injection here in Illinois.
Did alot of glassbeading in the huge blast cabinet.

To blast the entire Chevelle with you need 20-30 bags I estimate.
Click to expand...

That $ total is in the neighborhood of letting someone else do it for me. Definitely wouldn't be a good investment as a diy.
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
Pro blasters are up in Chicago burbs from me down south.
Bring $1,000-2K.
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Yea initially it doesnt sound like a good investment but when they can do it in a short time with effiency and little trouble its actually not that bad. Plus they're probably turning that around and putting it in to the media as well.
 
rjs89ia said:
Yea initially it doesnt sound like a good investment but when they can do it in a short time with effiency and little trouble its actually not that bad. Plus they're probably turning that around and putting it in to the media as well.
Click to expand...
They have rotary air compressors the Pros.
$11,000-50K.
Use a Special Roots supercharger.
Put out 100-1000 cfm airflow at 150 psi.
Making money By speed & volume work.
Bill You $$$$.
 
It does a good job coal slag cleaning up rusty steel.
Leaves the surface a bit toothed rough. You can back off on air pressure. I blast at full 120 psi.
Keep moving with the blast nozzele back & forth. Do a circular pattern or a Z zig zag to cut through & go back to clean up the rest.
Do a small 6 inch box square. then move on.
Do not blast in one spot continuous.

Lasts only 2 times in my 50 lb pot blaster coal slag. Breaks down fast.
But it is very economical. I have found nothing better to blast outside with & not go broke having $200 or more fly away in the air.

Red bag is what I use typical.
They make a blue bag also that is Ok.
 
Maniacmechanic1 said:
It does a good job coal slag cleaning up rusty steel.
Leaves the surface a bit toothed rough. You can back off on air pressure. I blast at full 120 psi.
Keep moving with the blast nozzele back & forth. Do a circular pattern or a Z zig zag to cut through & go back to clean up the rest.
Do a small 6 inch box square. then move on.
Do not blast in one spot continuous.

Lasts only 2 times in my 50 lb pot blaster coal slag. Breaks down fast.
But it is very economical. I have found nothing better to blast outside with & not go broke having $200 or more fly away in the air.

Red bag is what I use typical.
They make a blue bag also that is Ok.
Click to expand...

I'll pick up some of the fine next week when I get home. I plan to clean up for now and try it again once I get something different to try.
 
rjs89ia said:
3 of my other issues are:

1. I cannot get this dang thing to run consistantly. It may be the size of the media still but its either to much or not enough media coming through. When it comes through heavy it still works but then its just wasting media and reduces the run time. If I cut the feed valve back a smidge it'll run good for a few seconds then clear out and then it doesnt send any through. No happy medium.

3. Last but not least sifting. It's time consuming yes and I expect it to be. The issue isnt the time but the dust. I use one size screen to sift and thats takes about an hour to get through. Am I left with just buying several different size screens or does anyone have and alternate way of removing the extreme fines? I did pour tht media from one bucket to another infront of a shop fan and it worked a little but it left a pretty good size mess beyond the bucket.
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Here are a couple of tips:
ANY moisture in either the air or the blasting media itself will cause the blast stream to skip.
When you sift it, put a tarp down on the floor in a heated area overnight in as thin of a layer as possible.
Put a fan on it and keep turning it occasionally.

Here is the solution for sifting: (here we go again - pics will not upload).
You use one of those wire mesh wastebaskets for a sifter and have a shop-vac going in the area to catch the dust.
I have done this - works great.
Good luck.
 
Loves302Chevy said:
Here are a couple of tips:
ANY moisture in either the air or the blasting media itself will cause the blast stream to skip.
When you sift it, put a tarp down on the floor in a heated area overnight in as thin of a layer as possible.
Put a fan on it and keep turning it occasionally.

Here is the solution for sifting: (here we go again - pics will not upload).
You use one of those wire mesh wastebaskets for a sifter and have a shop-vac going in the area to catch the dust.
I have done this - works great.
Good luck.
Click to expand...

I'll give the shop vac a try. It has been working pretty well for keeping the dust down while blasting as well.

The mesh on the basket is a little to coarse for what my blaster can handle. I will try it to clean up the coarse media that I have seperated though. I've just been using a piece of wire screen and it seems to get it meshed down to what works best.
 
It's the weekend again. Stopped and got a couple bags of black diamond fine slag from TSC and that seems to do the trick. No more clogging. Now I just need to figure out the fogging in the hood. Besides that its the dust on the lens. I'd hate to invest in a fresh air hood for such little work. I did double mask this time and that seemed to help as well as using my other air compressor as a way to remove the fog from the lens. Still very time consuming but I did manage to get the majority or the exterior fender.

What kind of finish should I be achieving? Should the surface be 100% clean gray or can there still be some less than perfect areas and still be ok? Without pin pointing any specific area I did try to work out most of the darker spots but seems a little far fetched to achieve 100%20190330_134223.jpg 20190330_134250.jpg 20190330_134348.jpg 20190330_134358.jpg .
 
My 2 cents - that's as good as you're going to get it. Know when to call it good. If you go any further, you will most likely warp the panel.
 
Loves302Chevy said:
My 2 cents - that's as good as you're going to get it. Know when to call it good. If you go any further, you will most likely warp the panel.
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Point taken. The panels are pretty jacked on this car already gonna take alot of filler to make em straight again. Whoever had it in the past put bolts in the trim holes and stick welded it. I'm sure you can imagine how well that worked. I'll get some pics of the ones they didnt grind down, it's pretty comical.
 
rjs89ia said:
It's the weekend again. Stopped and got a couple bags of black diamond fine slag from TSC and that seems to do the trick. No more clogging. Now I just need to figure out the fogging in the hood. Besides that its the dust on the lens. I'd hate to invest in a fresh air hood for such little work. I did double mask this time and that seemed to help as well as using my other air compressor as a way to remove the fog from the lens. Still very time consuming but I did manage to get the majority or the exterior fender.

What kind of finish should I be achieving? Should the surface be 100% clean gray or can there still be some less than perfect areas and still be ok? Without pin pointing any specific area I did try to work out most of the darker spots but seems a little far fetched to achieve 100%View attachment 11888 View attachment 11889 View attachment 11890 View attachment 11891 .
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It's good enough.
Sanding by hand will get the rest.
 
I'w done sheet metal and body works 20 years now what i have learned is that soda is not good for plasting car body because dust sticks and if you dont wash it with acid and then sand paint wont stick,and slack is too rough for body panels
My opinion is that natural sand is best,i use industrial size plasting equipment,and i can blast body panels without warping them but it's not easy job
 
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