64 chevelle dissection/resurrection

What are you using? How are you applying the encapsulator ?
It's eastwood platinum. I've just been brushing it on. Bought the large box of 2" paint brushes from HF and just throw it away when I'm done. They say you can spray it if you thin it but I didnt want to deal with the clean up.
 
They say you can spray it if you thin it but I didnt want to deal with the clean up.

I agree about the cleanup !!! I have some fairly good equipment to spray with, but it's the
cleanup that is a pain or I would use it more often.
 
Got most of the drivers side pillar taken apart and got the donor piece out of the other car. Didn't get any encapsulator applied today but that'll be in tomorrows agenda.
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From the name of this product "Encapsulator" , sounds like you don't have to completely
remove all the rust. Does it work this way???
 
From the name of this product "Encapsulator" , sounds like you don't have to completely
remove all the rust. Does it work this way???
Yes, knock the heavy/loose rust, dirt and grease off clean/prep the surface, "I use acetone" and then apply the encapsulator. It's pretty tough stuff from what I can tell so far. It's supposed to chemically bond with the rust and prevent oxygen from getting to it to create more rust. I doubt I'll have any continuing issues with rust out here in the dry desert but its the peace of mind that I'm after.
 
Is most every pic above there are surfaces you can't get access to where there are two pieces layered
on each other. Is there anything special you do, or it just a matter of applying enough that it runs
into and behind those surfaces you can't paint?
 
Is most every pic above there are surfaces you can't get access to where there are two pieces layered
on each other. Is there anything special you do, or it just a matter of applying enough that it runs
into and behind those surfaces you can't paint?
I've been applying it to what I can reach with the brush. It doesn't seep so well and I dont expect to get every little bit with this. I hit the areas that are notorious for rust and as far as a coating that will seep eastwood recommends the internal frame coating. That's a thinned out spray that goes on heavy and will seep into those areas that you can't reach and will dry to a hard coating like the encapsulator. I intend to use that futher up in the pillars and in the interior around the bracing on the roof. Don't quote me on this but I believe in my research on the eastwood encapsulator they actually said that it couldn't or atleast severely resist being undermined meaning that it wont start to rust underneath the coating from the edge. So this would resist bubbling up like a normal primer coating would.
 
Getting the pillar fitted. There's a million variables with this one so taking a long time to get it done. Had the piece in and out about 200 times now. Been using the fresh air vent to help line it up with the existing screw holes.
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posting the project pictures help us follow your progress,
thats very helpful as most of the readers have never done similar work
and most of the members have zero clue whats involved or the extent of the work required,
and most of the people have no ability to do that extensive restoration.
 
Inner panels are hard to replace or repair. I hated doing body work, but was good at it at one time.

Now you couldn't pay me enough to do it. Just a little sanding and painting is about it for me.
 
Got the passenger side reinforcement in and the body picked back up off of the old floor and chassis. Going to start prepping and fixing any rust so I can coat the lower parts of the car before putting the new floor in. A lot easier to work on things in a comfortable chair and the body sits up high enough that I can stand.

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10 years ago I did my last one like this on a 1949 Plymouth 2 door slant back and installed a 392 Hemi with a Torqueflight transmission and Dana 44 rear end.

Previously been wrecked at right front fender door hinge area then had to repair body mount area below that which had been left untouched and no bolt to frame bracket. What a mess and shoddy job by the previous body repair man.
 
10 years ago I did my last one like this on a 1949 Plymouth 2 door slant back and installed a 392 Hemi with a Torqueflight transmission and Dana 44 rear end.

Previously been wrecked at right front fender door hinge area then had to repair body mount area below that which had been left untouched and no bolt to frame bracket. What a mess and shoddy job by the previous body repair man.

Shoddy jobs are of no shortage in the classic car industry thats for sure. I'll have to take a few pictures of the pro work someone did filling the trim holes. Lets just say bolts and stick welders are not the proper technique for closing up a hole. Every trim hole on this car looks like someone just hit it with a dead blow its that warped.
 
Lead is a wonderful way to do body work---if you can find it somewhere-- to correct others mistakes or your own work in a restoration/repair.
 
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