another 496bbc

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/project-cars/sucp-0901-496-chevy-big-block-build/


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Hello Guy's
I have a question I'm sure you can answer.
I have a Dart big M sportsman block . 496
Dart said it's mocked up like a mark 4
Block so i ordered cometic gaskets
And they are different then the one's
Skipwhite performance put on it.
So did some digging and from what I understand stand I can run it parallel
Or in a series based on heads?
I have AFR 290cc magnum oval port heads.
Which is better series or parallel?
New gasket is at bottom
 

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why not give afr a call and ask what has in the past produced the most consistent cylinder to cylinder temps and performance.
the truth here is that different blocks and the internal coolant port flow in different castings can along with the particular head gasket selected change the result.
I could tell you what Id use, but they have more recent test data.
I generally use trickflow, or brodix cylinder heads on the 496 bbc engines Ive built
http://www.felpro.com/technical/tecblogs/head-gasket-coolant-holes.html
http://scegaskets.com/product-category/chevrolet/chev-bbc/
http://scegaskets.com/product-category/chevrolet/chev-bbc/bbc-head-gaskets/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...temps-detonation-resistance.12842/#post-66481
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...mble-and-swirl-quench-squish.4081/#post-35069
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-combustion-chambers.2630/page-2#post-55199

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...od-rod-length-too-stroke-info.510/#post-10311
I have to point out I have 50 plus years devoted to gaining knowledge ,
about how you succeed at building reliable engines,and I pay a great deal of attention to the successful combos ,
and I've taken the effort too learn why the less successful combos failed.
now the truth is Ive made more than my full share of mistakes, but unlike most people,
I learn from my mistakes and the mistakes made by others and don,t generally repeat them.
I also take the time and effort to find out why parts fail, or why various mis-matched components don,t work well.
that seems to be a rather unique skill, from what I've seen.
if you take the time and effort required to read enough threads and linked info you'll see a pattern emerge!
its based on a concept that its far better to sacrifice a few peak potential horse power if thats required,
if that change can make a very noticeable improvement in the engines long term durability!
or as SMOKEY YUNICK used to say, the most important characteristic in building a race winning combo,
is simply that the most successful engine combo is based on an engine that has to finish the race in good running condition.
that in no way should be read as I can,t build a kick-butt engine with massive power, it just means that rock solid durability ,
takes presidence over adding a few additional peak, bragging hp, and a wide torque curve in the intended rpm range ,
adequate lubrication, cooling and staying out of detonation, and proper exhaust scavenging and a stable valve train,
are factors that take a far higher level of concern than bragging rights on a dyno.
or put differently, do it correct the first time, use the best parts you can afford , check your clearances, mandate 100% durability,
and strive for max torque in the intended rpm range, and let the hp numbers fall where they may!
Ive build almost 200 engines now over the last 50 years, and I can,t remember anyone having one fail unless they did something stupid,
like forget to check oil or coolant levels too repeatedly try to hit absurdly high rpms on a frequent recurring basis.
piston speed should be kept under about 4500 fpm, and even that should not be done constantly.
most engine failures are the result of valve train component or rotating component failures,
use of parts not designed for the stress levels,
detonation or lack of proper clearances and lubrication and lack of proper cooling,
control those factors and your engine lasts considerably longer


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/redline.343/#post-15729

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/matching-the-combo.11020/#post-48707

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...train-clearances-and-problems.528/#post-45493

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/rod-bolts-rpm-vs-stress.341/#post-30778

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-oil-feed-holes-in-cranks.4419/#post-11637

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-springs-and-setting-up-the-valve-train.181/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...on-building-a-383-sbc-stroker.428/#post-22981
AFR
(661) 257-8124
Mon-Fri 7am-5pm PT
 
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why not give afr a call and ask what has in the past produced the most consistent cylinder to cylinder temps and performance.
the truth here is that different blocks and the internal coolant port flow in different castings can along with the particular head gasket selected change the result.
I could tell you what Id use, but they have more recent test data.
I generally use trickflow, or brodix cylinder heads on the 496 bbc engines Ive built
http://www.felpro.com/technical/tecblogs/head-gasket-coolant-holes.html
http://scegaskets.com/product-category/chevrolet/chev-bbc/
http://scegaskets.com/product-category/chevrolet/chev-bbc/bbc-head-gaskets/


AFR
(661) 257-8124
Mon-Fri 7am-5pm PT
Got my answer from AFR......
They said whatever works for me.
The head will work with both gaskets,
"I asked" is one way better then the other
The reply I got was "works either way"

Not much of a answer...
 
Got my answer from AFR......
They said whatever works for me.
The head will work with both gaskets,
"I asked" is one way better then the other
The reply I got was "works either way"

Not much of a answer...
I like Fel Pro Printo Seal Race series Headgaskets.

Grumpy likes Copper.

MLS Cometic Headgaskets fine also.

Not a huge issue.
No Nitrous or Boost used.
 
why not give afr a call and ask what has in the past produced the most consistent cylinder to cylinder temps and performance.
the truth here is that different blocks and the internal coolant port flow in different castings can along with the particular head gasket selected change the result.
I could tell you what Id use, but they have more recent test data.
I generally use trickflow, or brodix cylinder heads on the 496 bbc engines Ive built
http://www.felpro.com/technical/tecblogs/head-gasket-coolant-holes.html
http://scegaskets.com/product-category/chevrolet/chev-bbc/
http://scegaskets.com/product-category/chevrolet/chev-bbc/bbc-head-gaskets/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...temps-detonation-resistance.12842/#post-66481
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...mble-and-swirl-quench-squish.4081/#post-35069
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-combustion-chambers.2630/page-2#post-55199

AFR
(661) 257-8124
Mon-Fri 7am-5pm PT
Hi Grumpy,
I have a question I'm sure there are other guy's who could answer as well.

Crank balance
Getting new crankshaft
I currently have a internally balanced
Crank, when i called to get new crank
Pistons rings all they needed was big end and little end weight of rods
To figure new bobweight.
I asked if they needed me to send flywheel and balancer,
They said "no it's neutral balanced "
Well it has a weight welded to flywheel
And a bolted weight on back side of the balancer.

Just trying not to buy more parts if possible.
 
first question would be who made the original crank assembly and how do you know its neutral balanced?
Id be rather reluctant to put together an assembly that I had not had balanced personally or at least had checked by someone I trusted.
personally Ive always taken the whole rotating assembly down to the machine shop and had them verify individual component weight and total assembly balance.


don,t ignore all the sub linked info in the threads
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-balancing.3900/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/serious-489-bbc.170/#post-204

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/picking-a-cam-for-street-strip-496-bbc.13384/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-and-installing-connecting-rods-pistons.247/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-and-basic-piston-ring-info-youll-need.509/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/scat-cranks-related-info.10930/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/types-of-crankshaft-steel.204/
 
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2018043095142442.jpg
This was the original bobweight sheet that came with the motor.
But being I'm changing everything but rods flexplate and front balancer
New pistons will weight a bit more
But new rings will weight a bit less old rings top ring was .093 thick.
Went to a 1/16 1/16 3/16 total seal gapless rings

I did plan on taking the assembly to a local shop and have them spin it up
To know for sure what it is.
I would like to see the numbers
To verify I can run this thing up to 6500
And not tear it a part.

To me they need my flexplate and front balancer? But me not being a engine builder I don't know.

Thanks for all the help Grumpy
 
View attachment 9941
This was the original bobweight sheet that came with the motor.
But being I'm changing everything but rods flexplate and front balancer
New pistons will weight a bit more
But new rings will weight a bit less old rings top ring was .093 thick.
Went to a 1/16 1/16 3/16 total seal gapless rings

I did plan on taking the assembly to a local shop and have them spin it up
To know for sure what it is.
I would like to see the numbers
To verify I can run this thing up to 6500
And not tear it a part.

To me they need my flexplate and front balancer? But me not being a engine builder I don't know.

Thanks for all the help Grumpy
Yes they Need your Flexplate & Harmonic Balancer.
Don't forget to bring them the Flexplate Bolts & Balancer Bolt.
All Fasteners should be ARP Pro Series Only for what your Building.
 
So question, doing some math and being
My new AFR heads require me to use a 4.540 head gasket on a 4.310 bore
It appears with a .03 thick gasket
I'm dropping CR by 3cc sound right?Screenshot_20180621-120748.png
 
I was running an 8.25 DCR and having some trouble with detonation on the highway at 70 mph
and 1900 RPM. Temps would be in the mid 90's and the highest octane I can get is 91. I retarded
the camshaft 3.5° and now my DCR is 8.02. I still have not driven the car yet, but some time this
summer I will.
 
I was running an 8.25 DCR and having some trouble with detonation on the highway at 70 mph
and 1900 RPM. Temps would be in the mid 90's and the highest octane I can get is 91. I retarded
the camshaft 3.5° and now my DCR is 8.02. I still have not driven the car yet, but some time this
summer I will.
The cam I have has me bring it to 108
4 degrees retarded a bit less torque
At low rpm but mid range torque and top end HP will be good I hope.
We have 93 octane all over around here.
 
Rotating assembly is here, I had crank micro polished , so I checked RA
I took pistons to local ceramic coating place , that will coat the top and coat dry molybdenum lube on skirts
They will be done Thursday
$250 for all 8 pistons

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is that your gauge measuring the surface RA Finish , if so how much do they cost and where do you get one?
 
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