why not give afr a call and ask what has in the past produced the most consistent cylinder to cylinder temps and performance.
the truth here is that different blocks and the internal coolant port flow in different castings can along with the particular head gasket selected change the result.
I could tell you what Id use, but they have more recent test data.
I generally use trickflow, or brodix cylinder heads on the 496 bbc engines Ive built
http://www.felpro.com/technical/tecblogs/head-gasket-coolant-holes.html
http://scegaskets.com/product-category/chevrolet/chev-bbc/
http://scegaskets.com/product-category/chevrolet/chev-bbc/bbc-head-gaskets/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...temps-detonation-resistance.12842/#post-66481
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...mble-and-swirl-quench-squish.4081/#post-35069
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ng-combustion-chambers.2630/page-2#post-55199
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...od-rod-length-too-stroke-info.510/#post-10311
I have to point out I have 50 plus years devoted to gaining knowledge ,
about how you succeed at building reliable engines,and I pay a great deal of attention to the successful combos ,
and I've taken the effort too learn why the less successful combos failed.
now the truth is Ive made more than my full share of mistakes, but unlike most people,
I learn from my mistakes and the mistakes made by others and don,t generally repeat them.
I also take the time and effort to find out why parts fail, or why various mis-matched components don,t work well.
that seems to be a rather unique skill, from what I've seen.
if you take the time and effort required to read enough threads and linked info you'll see a pattern emerge!
its based on a concept that its far better to sacrifice a few peak potential horse power if thats required,
if that change can make a very noticeable improvement in the engines long term durability!
or as SMOKEY YUNICK used to say, the most important characteristic in building a race winning combo,
is simply that the most successful engine combo is based on an engine that has to finish the race in good running condition.
that in no way should be read as I can,t build a kick-butt engine with massive power, it just means that rock solid durability ,
takes presidence over adding a few additional peak, bragging hp, and a wide torque curve in the intended rpm range ,
adequate lubrication, cooling and staying out of detonation, and proper exhaust scavenging and a stable valve train,
are factors that take a far higher level of concern than bragging rights on a dyno.
or put differently, do it correct the first time, use the best parts you can afford , check your clearances, mandate 100% durability,
and strive for max torque in the intended rpm range, and let the hp numbers fall where they may!
Ive build almost 200 engines now over the last 50 years, and I can,t remember anyone having one fail unless they did something stupid,
like forget to check oil or coolant levels too repeatedly try to hit absurdly high rpms on a frequent recurring basis.
piston speed should be kept under about 4500 fpm, and even that should not be done constantly.
most engine failures are the result of valve train component or rotating component failures,
use of parts not designed for the stress levels,
detonation or lack of proper clearances and lubrication and lack of proper cooling,
control those factors and your engine lasts considerably longer
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/redline.343/#post-15729
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/matching-the-combo.11020/#post-48707
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...train-clearances-and-problems.528/#post-45493
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/rod-bolts-rpm-vs-stress.341/#post-30778
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-oil-feed-holes-in-cranks.4419/#post-11637
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...e-springs-and-setting-up-the-valve-train.181/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...on-building-a-383-sbc-stroker.428/#post-22981
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