have you ever read stuff posted on line and just shake your head at the lack of facts or in some cases outright MS-INFORMATION being posted?
Honestly I'm amazed at the common myths and out right ms-information that's constantly repeated over and over as if it were facts, and a bit mystified that so few people are willing to do any research, to determine actual facts backed up by repeatedly tested math.
these two pictures, below just point out common coolant flow routes
some of my least favorite myths
(1) you need to slow the coolant flow thru the radiator to allow time to cool the fluid moving thru it
(2) swapping from a 190F to a 160F T-stat will significantly reduce an engines tendency to over heat.
(3) removing the t-stat will cure over heating
https://www.dewitts.com/collections/corvette-aluminum-radiators
adding an aux oil cooler with its own electrical fan,
and ideally a transmission fluid cooler with its own electrical fan,
would significantly reduce the heat load on the radiator and engine coolant
Cooling FAQ..READ THESE
1. Doesn't coolant have to have more time in the radiator to cool?
No. But a lot of people still think so. We have come up with some explanations for the Doubting Thomas.
Debunking the I Can Have It Both Ways Theory
The water has to have "time to cool" argument is most common one we hear. In a closed loop system if you keep the fluid in the heat exchanger you are simultaneously keeping it in the block longer. Unfortunately, the block is the part that is generating the heat. Sending hot coolant from your source (engine) through the heat exchanger (radiator) to the sink (air) will transfer heat as long as there is a temperature difference between the source and sink. The engine is still generating heat the whole time so why keep the coolant there any longer than you have to.
its CRITICAL to keep the trans fluid clean and ideally changed about every 70K miles and use of a auxiliary cooler that keeps the fluid temp under about 170F is going to extend service life a good deal longer
Debunking The Conscientious Electron Theory
We hear that the coolant has to stay in the system longer to cool but what is heat transfer really but conduction, convection and radiation of electrons. The fluid in your system transfers those electrons based principally on the source-sink differential and the exchange material's transfer rate. An electron moves at varying speeds - Bohr's model has it moving at 2 million meter/second and with a mere 11 million eV boost you can get and electron to 99.9% of the speed of light. Though they move at varying speeds physicists accept that electrons move really really fast. Far faster than the flow rate of the water pump. Your engine coolant's electrons do not know (or care) how fast you send them through the system - they just knows that the source is hotter than the sink and off they go.
Debunking Grandpa's Flathead Theory
"But wait a minute, I know Grandpa used to put washers in his flathead to slow the flow and cool his engine." We know people did this too. They still do it but the cooling benefit is not from the slower flow but the increase in dynamic pressure in the block that builds from the restriction. Consider that Grandpa had two flathead water pumps sending twice the volume through the same size radiator core. At some point Grandpa maxed out the throughput and began building pressure. Building pressure in his block helped reduce the onset of hot spots on his cylinder walls and formation of steam pockets in his block. This is a real benefit and does help cooling but is only realized when throughput nears capacity or is at capacity. While these restrictions may make sense when your rpm is excessive or your flow rate exceeds your heat exchanger throughput, they do not make sense for most applications. If you doubt this thinking then try this simple Ask Dr. Science experiment; clamp off the lower hose while you watch your temp gauge. Hopefully, you will debunk Grandpa's theory yourself before you experience vapor lock and melt your engine.
Simply put, you have a far better chance of keeping your cool with greater flow rate through your heat exchanger and exiting the system than holding it in your heat exchanger while generating heat in your engine block.
2. Why am I seeing erratic temperature swings?
If you experience erratic temperature most likely you have air trapped in your cooling system. Air rises to the top of the cooling system and gets trapped, potentially causing the cooling system to vapor lock. When the radiator is made the higher point in the system, the air will escape into the radiator and it will be vented out through the radiator cap and the overflow system. There are a couple of ways to resolve this and free the air.
Free trapped air via the vent plug Fill the system as normal with your antifreeze mixture. Use a 50-50 mixture of antifreeze and distilled water. Auto parts stores will sell in-expensive to determine the concentration of antifreeze in your system.
Find the small threaded plug with a hex fitting at the top of the water box where the upper radiator hose enters the engine. Loosen the fitting to the point where air starts to escape and inspect the thread sealant – re-apply as needed. Be sure to run your heater to allow water into the heater core.
Add antifreeze to replace the air being expelled through the plug.
As fluid starts to seep out of the plug tighten it up, top off the overflow tank, and you’re done. If you continue to get erratic temperature readings, or fail to get heat from the heating vents, re-open the screw and let any residual air to escape.
To vent a system in this method raise the car such that the radiator is higher than the water box. You can do this through jacks (and jack-stands, never support a vehicle by a jack alone), ramps, or a nice steep hill and parking with the nose of the car pointing up the hill.
You’ll need to let the car warm up so that the thermostat opens for the system to vent in this method. AVOID BURNS AND PROTECT YOUR EYES! - Never open the cooling system when hot. Let the car warm up from cold with the radiator cap removed. You may get some spillage while the coolant expands and the air bubbles out. This coolant will be hot.
Allow the engine to run, with the heater on (fan can be off or on low) until the thermostat opens and all the air is allowed to purge. Once the thermostat opens you will see the coolant level inside the radiator bubble and drop. Continue to add antifreeze to maintain fluid level. Again be careful as the coolant and any steam released by the system will be hot. Once the upper radiator hose becomes hot to the touch and no further air issues from the system carefully replace the radiator cap and ensure the overflow bottle is filled to the Max line.
Continue to allow the car to run to allow the temperature to stabilize. If you don’t have a temperature gauge allow the car to run until the fan cycles on and off at least once. During this time ensure there are no leaks from the system and that the upper radiator hose gets hot to the touch (especially close to the radiator). If not then allow the system to cool, and repeat the steps above to purge any remaining air.
NOTE: If you are not comfortable leaving the radiator cap off during warm-up then you can accomplish the same thing by leaving the radiator cap on and allowing the car to cool down after step four and then repeat steps one through four again, making sure the overflow bottle is maintained full. The heating and cooling cycle will push the air out through the overflow bottle and then suck coolant in to replace the air when the engine cools. The car must remain inclined for the whole procedure.
3. Why is my car overheating?
There is no one single answer for this question but here is a list of places to start to isolate the problem.
1. Before you do anything else, tune up the car. Many overheating cars are out of tune, running lean or with retarded timing. A lean fuel mixture will overheat your car. If your engine runs lean you can chase your tail looking for problems in the cooling system and never figure it out. The easy way to do this is richen your jetting a couple of steps. If the overheating is better, you're on the right track.
2. There is a lot of misinformation about ignition timing and cooling. Retarded timing contributes to overheating. Advanced timing helps cooling. Advance your initial timing a few degrees and see if it helps the car run cooler. However, if you advance to much you risk detonation and that too will cause you to overheat. If you start to detonate back off the timing. Overheating cars should always run vacuum advance. Vacuum advance helps cooling.
3. Radiators: Your radiator is the primary means to bring the engine temperature back to the optimal temperature. Radiators can be dirty, clogged, poorly designed, too small for the engine, fin density too great for the low rpm airflow...you get the picture. We know a little bit about radiators too; visit The Brassworks FAQs page for more information.
4. Airflow. Inadequate airflow can cause overheating. You have to get the air through your radiator and out of the engine compartment. Obstructions to that airflow can cause a cushion of hot air to build around your block and engine compartment. A properly fit fan shroud sealed to the radiator helps to channel the air through your radiator.
5. Inadequate coolant flow. If you are overheating at idle, stop and go traffic, on grades or towing you might benefit from higher flow rates through the radiator. reducing the cycle time between the engine and the heat exchanger provides more opportunity to shed heat. Hi Flow water pumps and hi flow thermostats create these incremental opportunities.
6. Modified gear ratios: Generally speaking lower ratios give slower acceleration, higher top speed and less braking power – Higher ratios give more acceleration, less top speed and more braking power. Changing gear ratios may generate more heat in the engine and potentially cause overheating.
7.Coolant composition. Most people run 50/50 for the increased boiling point and the engine block preservation. It is worth noting however that the specific heat capacity of ethylene glycol based water solutions is less than the specific heat capacity of clean water. For a heat transfer system with ethylene glycol manufacturer recommend that the circulated volume must be increased compared to a system with clean water.
In a 50% solution with operational temperatures above 36 degrees F the specific heat capacity is decreased with approximately 20%. The reduced heat capacity must be compensated by circulating more fluid.
An ethylene glycol mixture does raise the boiling point and will lubricate the water pump to prevent corrosion in system. Some people change the ratio of these fluid in hot season and when the weather cools return to 50/50.
8.Cooling the transmission is added work for a radiator. Do not obstruct airflow or heat the air passing over the radiator by placing the cooler in front of the radiator. Transmission and engine oil coolers constructed within the radiator tanks can also tax your cooling system by introducing a heat source in the tank. Using external coolers may help because they take the heat out of the cooling system.
9. The elusive manifold vacuum leak. Trouble at idle may point to a manifold vacuum leak. If you find you're too fast an idle speed, rough idle or stalling, misfiring on acceleration or adjustments to your carburetor seem to have limited effect than you may have a vacuum leak causing overheating.
10.Use a better grade of gas. If you are not running premium fuel and experience overheating a higher grade may help. If there is no improvement, try advancing your timing a few degrees. A little extra octane will allow you a little extra timing without getting into detonation. Earlier engines were designed for better gas than is sold today.
11.Head gasket leaks from the cylinder to the water jacket are a definite cause of overheating. That's bad news and a whole lot of work.
12.A stuck thermostat. Many thermostats are designed to fail in the open position but thermostats have also been known to stick partially open and impede coolant flow.
13.A slipping water pump belt can slow the flow rates from the water pump and impede coolant flow resulting in overheating.
14.A fan blade with insufficient blade count or incorrect pitch may not draw enough air. The fan can also be too far from the core or located too far inside a fan shroud which then traps the air, moderates the heat and heat exchange is diminished.
15.Headers without thermal coating can cause overheating.
16.A stretched timing chain or belt can cause overheating.
4. If I am overheating; do I even need a thermostat?
Running without a thermostat is a slippery slope. The thermostat provides drag on the water flow which increases the backpressure the water pump. This additional pressure, over and above the nominal static pressure of the radiator cap raises the boiling point of the systems coolant. The higher temperatures helps suppress localized film boiling at hot spots such as around the exhaust port.
The transition from nucleatic boiling (bubbles of steam originating from irregularities on the surface) to film boiling (where the hot surface is coated with a film of steam) is called Departure from Nucleatic Boiling or DNB. DNB is very very bad because steam is a good insulator compared to water. Once DNB occurs, the area under the steam gets hotter because the steam fails to remove engine heat. The adjacent metal, which is still wetted, heats therefore from conduction. DNB happens there. The process spreads until substantially all the coolant-wetted surfaces are insulated by a film of steam. Uh oh - the engine overheats. To make matters worse, this steam buildup in pressure will forces the radiator cap open spilling coolant to a recover can (or the street). The loss of coolant from the system escalates the whole problem and the situation get progressively worse.
The second issue is that of water pump cavitation and surge. Operated a pump at high RPM with insufficient head pressure provided by the frictional losses in the coolant passages and the thermostat creates a greater likelihood that the pump will either cavitate or surge. Cavitation is the condition where localized boiling or degassing occurs as the fluids exits the impeller vane and pressure changes. Surges are the result of unstable flow rates.
Both cavitation and surging are destructive elements to the engine block and cylinder wall. How destructive? Cavitation's collapsing bubbles function like a sand blaster that will eventually erode away impeller material and block wall surface. Surge can do the same thing and the added vibration can stress the impeller enough to break it. What often looks like corrosion damage to the impeller when the housing is intact may actually be cavitation damage.
5. When should I check my cooling system?
The best time to inspect your heater and radiator hoses is cooler weather. Less obvious signs of decay can be seen and felt by grabbing hold of a cold radiator or heater hose and giving it a good squeeze. Brittle or cracking material, a spongy feel, or a hose sticking to the inside of itself are bad signs.
6. Can I block off my BBC bypass to the intake manifold?
Blocking off the bypass will route the coolant directly to the radiator which is good for heat exchange but remember the bypass circulates water until the t-stat opens. This routing helps circulate the fluid and raises block pressure which prevents the formation of hot spots in the engines. Failure to run bypass may result in excessive pressure buildup at the t-stat which can cause it to open early or potentially cause gasket leak.
7. What is that Knocking sound?
This is not really a cooling question but it made the list...
Knock or pinging or detonation or spark knock is caused when the air/fuel mixture ratio in the cylinder causes the fuel t o burn unevenly. Fuel normally burns in pockets and when each pocket of fuel burns, a shock occurs that burns the next until all the fuel is burned in that stroke. When a knock is present, the pockets don't burn evenly, causing the cylinder wall damaging shock waves that can damage the piston itself. The pocket formation also creates the common "pinging" noise that is often described when knock is present.
You also can get a knock sounds from the following:
piston slap
worn piston bearings
worn wrist pins
loose or worn lifters
loose or worn rockers
low octane gas
carbon deposits on cylinder walls
incorrect spark plugs
intake leak
bad bearings on the crankshaft
thrown rod
If you have a belt slipping issue....you do realize they make dual v-belt belt alternator pulleys and 3 and 4 v- belt crank pulleys and 3 v belt groove water pump pulleys
https://store.alternatorparts.com/2-groove.aspx
just a point many guys seem to over look, the fans run on electricity and a higher amp capacity alternator provides a good deal more current to spin those cooling fans, charge the battery, and provide current to the lights , Ive seen several cars with marginal cooling that had that cooling issue disappear once a 160-200 amp alternator replaced the stock alternator, the increased current allowed the cooling fans to spin a good deal faster at low engine speeds and the result was more efficient cooling.
one fact often over looked is that radiator designs vary wildly, and the number of fins per inch of surface area and width of radiator coolant flow tubes can significantly increase or decrease thermal heat transfer efficiency., fin counts vary from 8 to 22 fins per inch on various radiator designs Ive seen.
thus a radiator might measure say 18" tall by 24" wide but depending on design, and fin and tube count, might actually have a radically more or less efficient heat transfer rate.obviously the best and surest way to find out if a radiator, shroud and fan combo cools the engine effectively will be to install and run the component parts you have under the current applications limitations for real world testing and if it needs upgrading your dealing in proven facts vs guessing
ID also point out that all radiators collect crud and become restrictive to flow and much less effective at transferring heat to outside air flow over time, especially if the wrong coolant or water containing excessive mineral content are used so you might want to have yours cleaned out, rebuilt or replaced, if thats needed, after taking it out, an inspection indicates the correct course, a new aluminum radiator, in the largest size quality, radiator, that fits you can afford, is usually a good idea, if it needs replacing
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I find it rather amazing that many guys (even a few corvette owners) don,t realize that the oil cooler between the block and oil filter does remove a noticeable amount of heat from the engine oil,or that in some cases that they even have an oil cooler factory installed. ITS OIL FLOW that absorbs and initially transfers heat away from the bearings and valve train not coolant.
my 1985 corvette came with a factory oil cooler, that runs engine coolant through separate but contacting internal passages, this warms the oil faster getting it flowing but tends to reduce the heat engine oil can reach as it absorbs oil heat effectively transferring it too the engine coolant on the car, where its transferred too air flow through the radiator, this does a decent job if your cruising but not on a high performance application where a larger transmission fluid cooler does a significantly better job
obviously this cooler mounts between the block and oil filter and runs coolant through separate passages with a common wall to the oil flow so the coolant which is generally 10F-20F cooler than the oil will absorb some of the oils heat load. (use of the extra long oil filter,
BTW I DON,T KNOW WHO SELLS THESE BUT IVE GOT TWO ON MY CORVETTES OIL FILTERS AND THEY EASILY REDUCE OIL TEMPS 7-15 DEGREES
I don,t know where they sell these, finned aluminum filter covers now ,a few years back these were $20 each and significantly longer that this picture shows,
in fact they were the length of the long oil filter ,and believe it or not the combo of the longer oil filter and finned cover dropped my oil temps an additional 5 deg F , EASY TO PROVE by simply removing and replacing the slip on finned cover several times after keeping detailed records while cruising the interstate at a steady 70 mph (not a big difference but for $20 well worth it!
and a larger capacity baffled oil pan, also helps as it exposes more surface area to cooler under the car air flow)
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...fo-and-derale-trans-cool-pans.662/#post-12989
those aluminum finned tube coolers work, are reasonably cheap, very durable ,but a bit restrictive
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-41205/overview/
but they don,t cool trans fluid or oil no where near as efficiently/fast as the larger fan equipped coolers with the AN#8 line size
and in either case finding a place to mount any cooler where you can keep it out of sight and still easily access fresh outside air flow,
is usually a problem for most people
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15850
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15950
one of the most common mistakes less than experienced performance enthusiasts, face and very commonly over-look, is the fact that the internal cross sectional area on many hydraulic and fuel line fittings are considerably more restrictive to flow that the fuel limes or hydraulic lines inside diameter they were designed to be used with, and it varies a great deal between different manufacturers, now ideally the fittings internal passage cross sectional area is both consistent and the same or greater that the tube or hydraulic line size, it listed to match, , so a 1/2" inside diameter fuel line, or hydraulic lines?hoses, for example should have components for the connections and fittings that have significantly smaller internal cross sectional areas, it does you very little good to use lets say, AN#8 or half inch fuel lines if the internal cross sectional area of the connections and fitting used with those lines is only 3/8" or smaller in cross sectional area,this is an area where dealing with a local hydraulic supply shop that has the correct tools and fittings to custom fabricate your fuel lines, coolant or lubrication lines is a very good idea!
talk to a local professional at your local hydraulic supply, measure accurately, take the time to explain what your trying to accomplish and take several pictures to show them what your doing, and get them too fabricate any high pressure fuel or coolant lines and related fittings
*
Up to 45 GPH= 3/4 GPM = 5/16" or -04 AN
*
Up to 90 GPH = 1.5 GPM= 3/8" or -06 AN
*
Up to 250 GPH =4.2 GPM= 1/2" or -08 AN
nearly ideal for transmission and oil coolers
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Up to 450 GPH =7.5 GPM= 5/8" or -10 AN
*
Up to 900 GPH = 15GPM 3/4"or -12 AN
www.summitracing.com
dorman sells a similar oil cooler that adapts to the oil filter
yes these were on some 1984-1985 corvettes, and yest they tend to both stabilize the oil temps and help keep the oil temps in the reasonable 200-215F range
the rotating assembly bearings ,wrist pins and complete valve train,valve springs, lifters, valves and valve guides and the pistons and rings are where a great deal of the engine heat is generated, and those components are initially cooled with oil flow that absorbs and transfers the heat collected , and transported from those components to the block and coolant, so having a constant flow of pressurized oil flow over those parts are mandatory for maximum durability.thus adding a larger capacity baffled oil pan and an oil cooler will generally enhance and extend an engines life span.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...sion-and-oil-cooler-increases-durability.176/
clutch fans have a viscus clutch that spins the fan based against the resistance its working against
the fans generally spin the fastest at about 2000-3000 rpm
,so from idle to about 2500 rpm fan speeds increase along with but not directly related too engine rpm,
much above that rpm the resistance won,t allow the fan speeds to increase nearly as fast as rpms increase
so the clutch fans do soak up some engine power , but not nearly as much as a solidly mounted fan would have.
generally the more blades on a quality clutch fan, the better it cools
I generally used to look for the clutch fans of caddys and buicks as many will mount to chevy water pumps with minimal or no mods
most were available from salvage yards dirt cheap in years past you ideally want something similar to this
https://www.ss396.com/chevelle/FANK...MIqpLemIjB6QIVDtbACh1uzwYdEAQYBSABEgKWbvD_BwE
http://www.network54.com/Forum/215655/message/1066184641/Car+Craft+Cooling+Fan+Dyno+Test
don,t forget a matching fan shroud that matched the radiator and fan diameter,greatly increases cooling efficiency
read the links and sub-links
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/correct-thermostat.5607/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/unwanted-engine-bay-heat.12186/#post-59072
If your replacing a damaged or missing fan shroud ,it doesn,t need to be an EXACT match,to the original O.E.M. component
but it should be an IMPROVED design over what its replacing'
in both structural strength and ideally in cosmetic appeal,
a bit of custom fabrication if done correctly,
will add rather than detract from the over all builds visual and functional presents,
ideally you want people to look at what you've done and think
"WOW! why didn,t I think of that!.... DAMN THATS IMPRESSIVE"
rather than "
what the hell was that guy thinking when he installed that crap!"
and sometimes
the difference is only in a few extra minutes grinding welds,
the type of fasteners used, the care taken in the fabrication and careful fitting,
thinking through the over all design,
or a bit of matching paint
Dorman 620-118 Radiator Fan Assembly
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...se1-_-dorman&gclid=CPGMgLCu09ACFUpMDQodAckHvg
1995-96 corvette cooling hoses
THE SECRET to a good solder seal, on a radiator joint, is a totally clean metal (FAIRLY THICK COPPER) surface and the correct solder alloy for the application
most aluminum radiators are EPOXY SEALED NOT WELDED,(yes the better versions are welded)
the problem here is that acid dips to clean the surface with alkaloid dips for PH stabilization and raid steam cleaning of metal surfaces followed by use of , lead acid, or silver solder either makes the EPA and OSHA nuts or its darn expensive.
aluminum is an acceptable but not the best quality substitute, as it rapidly metal fatigues and its difficult to weld if corroded
copper is TWICE AS THERMALLY CONDUCTIVE as aluminum
if your going to use a valve train cooling oil flow to cool the valve springs ,
you'll need to dissipate the heat that oil flow collects as it runs over the surface of those hot valve springs and a combination of a higher capacity baffled oil pan ,
and an auxiliary oil cooler to make transferring the absorbed heat load the oil carries away from the upper engine is almost 100% mandatory if your expecting the oil to cool the valve train for very long.
Id point out that you'll almost certainly want to use an oil cooler that's as large as you have room to effectively use and having a powered fan to increase air flow and heat transfer efficiency will help, bu remember the line size between the engine cooler and back to the engine will generally slightly restrict flow so, I,d advise at least a AN#8 or 1/2" internal cross sectional, size oil or hydraulic lines designed to handle 300F temps and pressure levels with a significant safety margin above what the engine produces, and having large remote mounted oil filter(s) won,t hurt either.
Yes they make dual transmission fluid and oil coolers so you might want to consider that option if you have an automatic transmission and Id sure suggest a fluid temp gauge that accurately measures transmission fluid and a separated gauge for oil temperatures.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-12318
IM currently using this transmission fluid cooler on my 1985 corvette but have used others in the past, and a dual cooler like this certainly has some advantages , if you need both oil and transmission fluid cooling.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-13311
first Id point out that 210-220F while above the temps your used to seeing on the older muscle cars is NOT exceptionally hot, in most modern car engines and while it certainly can be reduced its also not likely to cause you any problems if its controlled and stays under that 220f most of the time, oil should exceed 213F to boil out moisture that can cause acids in the oil to form
(1) the larger the heat transfer surface area the better the system tends to operate, but a minimum of about 1.5-2 square inches of radiator fin area exposed to effective air flow per cubic inch of displacement is generally required
(2) oil does much of the initial heat transfer in the engine, keeping the oil cooled too no more than about 15F above the coolant temp, and it reduces the heat load on the radiator coolant, so adding a high capacity 7-8 quart oil pan with its greater surface area that dissipates heat,and an added fan equipped, remote mounted oil cooler can dramatically reduce engine operational temps.
if you have an automatic transmission the cooler in the lower radiator adds considerable heat load, adding an auxiliary trans fluid cooler helps improve the engines cooling efficiency.
(3) air flow rates are critical so a well designed fan shroud and a fan(s) easily capable of pulling 3000 plus cubic feet per minute in air flow is very helpful
the answer too what cooling system is most likely to both cool the car/truck efficiently and fit your budget,would mostly depend on your budget limitations,
but a large 3-4 tube aluminum radiator with a a 140-to-200 amp alternator
https://www.dbelectrical.com/produc...0-5-7l-7-4l-chevy-truck-93-94-95-200-amp.html
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-8173nep/applications/year/1996
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-a-custom-wet-sump-oil-pan.65/
taking advantage of all your options is a smart way to reproach the issue of correctly controlling, and maintaining a stable and predictable engine heat level, thus installing a larger capacity racing style oil pan and an auxiliary oil cooler with an electrical fan, will significantly increase the engines ability to rapidly dissipate heat even before that engine heat is absorbed by the engines cooling systems coolant. oil flow over a few of the hottest components like valve springs, bearing surfaces,and rocker arms absorb and transfer heat to the block, and oil pan as it flows, thus a larger oil capacity and a baffled oil pan with an extended sump is a good idea as the increased oil capacity and larger surface area of an enlarged sump area exposed too outside air flow can stabilize and allow a good deal of heat to dissipate to that outside air flow, as the air which can be well over 130F-170 plus F cooler that the engine oil that can be up to 250F plus in a racing engine
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dak-pac-2750/reviews
https://www.dewitts.com/collections/corvette-aluminum-radiators
I'd point out that a 7-8 quart baffled oil pan helps cool an engine.
and dual or a large single electric fan with a matched ducted shroud and the ability to move,
2500 fcm-3000 cfm of air should provide adequate cooling for most engines.
adding an auxiliary oil cooler certainly helps
Keep in mind a well designed 7-8 quart baffled oil pan adds both durability and helps reduce cooling issues
and if you have an automatic transmission Id add a electrical fan cooled trans fluid cooler
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http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...per-vs-aluminum-in-radiators.4230/#post-11173
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a few links may help here
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-filters-related-info.2080/#post-54352
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-cooler-increases-durability.176/#post-48374
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/replacing-trans-fluid.10749/#post-46958
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html
http://www.caparadiator.com/aluminumvscopper.html
http://www.cgj.com/2013/07/16/aluminum-vs-copper-brass-radiator-final-thoughts/
READING THE LINKS POSTED BELOW AND SUB_LINKS HELPS
http://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/cooling_faq.html
http://www.cjponyparts.com/lower-radiat ... 3/p/HW769/
http://www.overclockers.com/water-cooli ... -transfer/
http://download.springer.com/static/pdf ... 1&ext=.pdf
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tech_t ... Tips_6.htm
http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/14_rul ... obiles.htm
keep in mind a great deal of most all initial heat transfer internally is the result of oil flow over moving surfaces like valve train and bearings adding a remote oil cooler and deep baffled oil pan can significantly lower heat loads on the radiator
Honestly I'm amazed at the common myths and out right ms-information that's constantly repeated over and over as if it were facts, and a bit mystified that so few people are willing to do any research, to determine actual facts backed up by repeatedly tested math.
these two pictures, below just point out common coolant flow routes
some of my least favorite myths
(1) you need to slow the coolant flow thru the radiator to allow time to cool the fluid moving thru it
(2) swapping from a 190F to a 160F T-stat will significantly reduce an engines tendency to over heat.
(3) removing the t-stat will cure over heating
Antifreeze shenanigans
Last night I had a long discussion with some friends on antifreeze. I was amazed how many opposite opinions I heard on something that should have a pretty straight answer. Ethylene, propylene, organic, inorganic, silicates, long life, distilled, non-distilled, bolt in zinc anodes andwhatnot...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
and ideally a transmission fluid cooler with its own electrical fan,
would significantly reduce the heat load on the radiator and engine coolant
Cooling FAQ..READ THESE
1. Doesn't coolant have to have more time in the radiator to cool?
No. But a lot of people still think so. We have come up with some explanations for the Doubting Thomas.
Debunking the I Can Have It Both Ways Theory
The water has to have "time to cool" argument is most common one we hear. In a closed loop system if you keep the fluid in the heat exchanger you are simultaneously keeping it in the block longer. Unfortunately, the block is the part that is generating the heat. Sending hot coolant from your source (engine) through the heat exchanger (radiator) to the sink (air) will transfer heat as long as there is a temperature difference between the source and sink. The engine is still generating heat the whole time so why keep the coolant there any longer than you have to.
its CRITICAL to keep the trans fluid clean and ideally changed about every 70K miles and use of a auxiliary cooler that keeps the fluid temp under about 170F is going to extend service life a good deal longer
We hear that the coolant has to stay in the system longer to cool but what is heat transfer really but conduction, convection and radiation of electrons. The fluid in your system transfers those electrons based principally on the source-sink differential and the exchange material's transfer rate. An electron moves at varying speeds - Bohr's model has it moving at 2 million meter/second and with a mere 11 million eV boost you can get and electron to 99.9% of the speed of light. Though they move at varying speeds physicists accept that electrons move really really fast. Far faster than the flow rate of the water pump. Your engine coolant's electrons do not know (or care) how fast you send them through the system - they just knows that the source is hotter than the sink and off they go.
Debunking Grandpa's Flathead Theory
"But wait a minute, I know Grandpa used to put washers in his flathead to slow the flow and cool his engine." We know people did this too. They still do it but the cooling benefit is not from the slower flow but the increase in dynamic pressure in the block that builds from the restriction. Consider that Grandpa had two flathead water pumps sending twice the volume through the same size radiator core. At some point Grandpa maxed out the throughput and began building pressure. Building pressure in his block helped reduce the onset of hot spots on his cylinder walls and formation of steam pockets in his block. This is a real benefit and does help cooling but is only realized when throughput nears capacity or is at capacity. While these restrictions may make sense when your rpm is excessive or your flow rate exceeds your heat exchanger throughput, they do not make sense for most applications. If you doubt this thinking then try this simple Ask Dr. Science experiment; clamp off the lower hose while you watch your temp gauge. Hopefully, you will debunk Grandpa's theory yourself before you experience vapor lock and melt your engine.
Simply put, you have a far better chance of keeping your cool with greater flow rate through your heat exchanger and exiting the system than holding it in your heat exchanger while generating heat in your engine block.
2. Why am I seeing erratic temperature swings?
If you experience erratic temperature most likely you have air trapped in your cooling system. Air rises to the top of the cooling system and gets trapped, potentially causing the cooling system to vapor lock. When the radiator is made the higher point in the system, the air will escape into the radiator and it will be vented out through the radiator cap and the overflow system. There are a couple of ways to resolve this and free the air.
Free trapped air via the vent plug Fill the system as normal with your antifreeze mixture. Use a 50-50 mixture of antifreeze and distilled water. Auto parts stores will sell in-expensive to determine the concentration of antifreeze in your system.
Find the small threaded plug with a hex fitting at the top of the water box where the upper radiator hose enters the engine. Loosen the fitting to the point where air starts to escape and inspect the thread sealant – re-apply as needed. Be sure to run your heater to allow water into the heater core.
Add antifreeze to replace the air being expelled through the plug.
As fluid starts to seep out of the plug tighten it up, top off the overflow tank, and you’re done. If you continue to get erratic temperature readings, or fail to get heat from the heating vents, re-open the screw and let any residual air to escape.
To vent a system in this method raise the car such that the radiator is higher than the water box. You can do this through jacks (and jack-stands, never support a vehicle by a jack alone), ramps, or a nice steep hill and parking with the nose of the car pointing up the hill.
You’ll need to let the car warm up so that the thermostat opens for the system to vent in this method. AVOID BURNS AND PROTECT YOUR EYES! - Never open the cooling system when hot. Let the car warm up from cold with the radiator cap removed. You may get some spillage while the coolant expands and the air bubbles out. This coolant will be hot.
Allow the engine to run, with the heater on (fan can be off or on low) until the thermostat opens and all the air is allowed to purge. Once the thermostat opens you will see the coolant level inside the radiator bubble and drop. Continue to add antifreeze to maintain fluid level. Again be careful as the coolant and any steam released by the system will be hot. Once the upper radiator hose becomes hot to the touch and no further air issues from the system carefully replace the radiator cap and ensure the overflow bottle is filled to the Max line.
Continue to allow the car to run to allow the temperature to stabilize. If you don’t have a temperature gauge allow the car to run until the fan cycles on and off at least once. During this time ensure there are no leaks from the system and that the upper radiator hose gets hot to the touch (especially close to the radiator). If not then allow the system to cool, and repeat the steps above to purge any remaining air.
NOTE: If you are not comfortable leaving the radiator cap off during warm-up then you can accomplish the same thing by leaving the radiator cap on and allowing the car to cool down after step four and then repeat steps one through four again, making sure the overflow bottle is maintained full. The heating and cooling cycle will push the air out through the overflow bottle and then suck coolant in to replace the air when the engine cools. The car must remain inclined for the whole procedure.
3. Why is my car overheating?
There is no one single answer for this question but here is a list of places to start to isolate the problem.
1. Before you do anything else, tune up the car. Many overheating cars are out of tune, running lean or with retarded timing. A lean fuel mixture will overheat your car. If your engine runs lean you can chase your tail looking for problems in the cooling system and never figure it out. The easy way to do this is richen your jetting a couple of steps. If the overheating is better, you're on the right track.
2. There is a lot of misinformation about ignition timing and cooling. Retarded timing contributes to overheating. Advanced timing helps cooling. Advance your initial timing a few degrees and see if it helps the car run cooler. However, if you advance to much you risk detonation and that too will cause you to overheat. If you start to detonate back off the timing. Overheating cars should always run vacuum advance. Vacuum advance helps cooling.
3. Radiators: Your radiator is the primary means to bring the engine temperature back to the optimal temperature. Radiators can be dirty, clogged, poorly designed, too small for the engine, fin density too great for the low rpm airflow...you get the picture. We know a little bit about radiators too; visit The Brassworks FAQs page for more information.
4. Airflow. Inadequate airflow can cause overheating. You have to get the air through your radiator and out of the engine compartment. Obstructions to that airflow can cause a cushion of hot air to build around your block and engine compartment. A properly fit fan shroud sealed to the radiator helps to channel the air through your radiator.
5. Inadequate coolant flow. If you are overheating at idle, stop and go traffic, on grades or towing you might benefit from higher flow rates through the radiator. reducing the cycle time between the engine and the heat exchanger provides more opportunity to shed heat. Hi Flow water pumps and hi flow thermostats create these incremental opportunities.
6. Modified gear ratios: Generally speaking lower ratios give slower acceleration, higher top speed and less braking power – Higher ratios give more acceleration, less top speed and more braking power. Changing gear ratios may generate more heat in the engine and potentially cause overheating.
7.Coolant composition. Most people run 50/50 for the increased boiling point and the engine block preservation. It is worth noting however that the specific heat capacity of ethylene glycol based water solutions is less than the specific heat capacity of clean water. For a heat transfer system with ethylene glycol manufacturer recommend that the circulated volume must be increased compared to a system with clean water.
In a 50% solution with operational temperatures above 36 degrees F the specific heat capacity is decreased with approximately 20%. The reduced heat capacity must be compensated by circulating more fluid.
An ethylene glycol mixture does raise the boiling point and will lubricate the water pump to prevent corrosion in system. Some people change the ratio of these fluid in hot season and when the weather cools return to 50/50.
8.Cooling the transmission is added work for a radiator. Do not obstruct airflow or heat the air passing over the radiator by placing the cooler in front of the radiator. Transmission and engine oil coolers constructed within the radiator tanks can also tax your cooling system by introducing a heat source in the tank. Using external coolers may help because they take the heat out of the cooling system.
9. The elusive manifold vacuum leak. Trouble at idle may point to a manifold vacuum leak. If you find you're too fast an idle speed, rough idle or stalling, misfiring on acceleration or adjustments to your carburetor seem to have limited effect than you may have a vacuum leak causing overheating.
10.Use a better grade of gas. If you are not running premium fuel and experience overheating a higher grade may help. If there is no improvement, try advancing your timing a few degrees. A little extra octane will allow you a little extra timing without getting into detonation. Earlier engines were designed for better gas than is sold today.
11.Head gasket leaks from the cylinder to the water jacket are a definite cause of overheating. That's bad news and a whole lot of work.
12.A stuck thermostat. Many thermostats are designed to fail in the open position but thermostats have also been known to stick partially open and impede coolant flow.
13.A slipping water pump belt can slow the flow rates from the water pump and impede coolant flow resulting in overheating.
14.A fan blade with insufficient blade count or incorrect pitch may not draw enough air. The fan can also be too far from the core or located too far inside a fan shroud which then traps the air, moderates the heat and heat exchange is diminished.
15.Headers without thermal coating can cause overheating.
16.A stretched timing chain or belt can cause overheating.
4. If I am overheating; do I even need a thermostat?
Running without a thermostat is a slippery slope. The thermostat provides drag on the water flow which increases the backpressure the water pump. This additional pressure, over and above the nominal static pressure of the radiator cap raises the boiling point of the systems coolant. The higher temperatures helps suppress localized film boiling at hot spots such as around the exhaust port.
The transition from nucleatic boiling (bubbles of steam originating from irregularities on the surface) to film boiling (where the hot surface is coated with a film of steam) is called Departure from Nucleatic Boiling or DNB. DNB is very very bad because steam is a good insulator compared to water. Once DNB occurs, the area under the steam gets hotter because the steam fails to remove engine heat. The adjacent metal, which is still wetted, heats therefore from conduction. DNB happens there. The process spreads until substantially all the coolant-wetted surfaces are insulated by a film of steam. Uh oh - the engine overheats. To make matters worse, this steam buildup in pressure will forces the radiator cap open spilling coolant to a recover can (or the street). The loss of coolant from the system escalates the whole problem and the situation get progressively worse.
The second issue is that of water pump cavitation and surge. Operated a pump at high RPM with insufficient head pressure provided by the frictional losses in the coolant passages and the thermostat creates a greater likelihood that the pump will either cavitate or surge. Cavitation is the condition where localized boiling or degassing occurs as the fluids exits the impeller vane and pressure changes. Surges are the result of unstable flow rates.
Both cavitation and surging are destructive elements to the engine block and cylinder wall. How destructive? Cavitation's collapsing bubbles function like a sand blaster that will eventually erode away impeller material and block wall surface. Surge can do the same thing and the added vibration can stress the impeller enough to break it. What often looks like corrosion damage to the impeller when the housing is intact may actually be cavitation damage.
5. When should I check my cooling system?
The best time to inspect your heater and radiator hoses is cooler weather. Less obvious signs of decay can be seen and felt by grabbing hold of a cold radiator or heater hose and giving it a good squeeze. Brittle or cracking material, a spongy feel, or a hose sticking to the inside of itself are bad signs.
6. Can I block off my BBC bypass to the intake manifold?
Blocking off the bypass will route the coolant directly to the radiator which is good for heat exchange but remember the bypass circulates water until the t-stat opens. This routing helps circulate the fluid and raises block pressure which prevents the formation of hot spots in the engines. Failure to run bypass may result in excessive pressure buildup at the t-stat which can cause it to open early or potentially cause gasket leak.
7. What is that Knocking sound?
This is not really a cooling question but it made the list...
Knock or pinging or detonation or spark knock is caused when the air/fuel mixture ratio in the cylinder causes the fuel t o burn unevenly. Fuel normally burns in pockets and when each pocket of fuel burns, a shock occurs that burns the next until all the fuel is burned in that stroke. When a knock is present, the pockets don't burn evenly, causing the cylinder wall damaging shock waves that can damage the piston itself. The pocket formation also creates the common "pinging" noise that is often described when knock is present.
You also can get a knock sounds from the following:
piston slap
worn piston bearings
worn wrist pins
loose or worn lifters
loose or worn rockers
low octane gas
carbon deposits on cylinder walls
incorrect spark plugs
intake leak
bad bearings on the crankshaft
thrown rod
If you have a belt slipping issue....you do realize they make dual v-belt belt alternator pulleys and 3 and 4 v- belt crank pulleys and 3 v belt groove water pump pulleys
https://store.alternatorparts.com/2-groove.aspx
just a point many guys seem to over look, the fans run on electricity and a higher amp capacity alternator provides a good deal more current to spin those cooling fans, charge the battery, and provide current to the lights , Ive seen several cars with marginal cooling that had that cooling issue disappear once a 160-200 amp alternator replaced the stock alternator, the increased current allowed the cooling fans to spin a good deal faster at low engine speeds and the result was more efficient cooling.
one fact often over looked is that radiator designs vary wildly, and the number of fins per inch of surface area and width of radiator coolant flow tubes can significantly increase or decrease thermal heat transfer efficiency., fin counts vary from 8 to 22 fins per inch on various radiator designs Ive seen.
thus a radiator might measure say 18" tall by 24" wide but depending on design, and fin and tube count, might actually have a radically more or less efficient heat transfer rate.obviously the best and surest way to find out if a radiator, shroud and fan combo cools the engine effectively will be to install and run the component parts you have under the current applications limitations for real world testing and if it needs upgrading your dealing in proven facts vs guessing
ID also point out that all radiators collect crud and become restrictive to flow and much less effective at transferring heat to outside air flow over time, especially if the wrong coolant or water containing excessive mineral content are used so you might want to have yours cleaned out, rebuilt or replaced, if thats needed, after taking it out, an inspection indicates the correct course, a new aluminum radiator, in the largest size quality, radiator, that fits you can afford, is usually a good idea, if it needs replacing
I find it rather amazing that many guys (even a few corvette owners) don,t realize that the oil cooler between the block and oil filter does remove a noticeable amount of heat from the engine oil,or that in some cases that they even have an oil cooler factory installed. ITS OIL FLOW that absorbs and initially transfers heat away from the bearings and valve train not coolant.
my 1985 corvette came with a factory oil cooler, that runs engine coolant through separate but contacting internal passages, this warms the oil faster getting it flowing but tends to reduce the heat engine oil can reach as it absorbs oil heat effectively transferring it too the engine coolant on the car, where its transferred too air flow through the radiator, this does a decent job if your cruising but not on a high performance application where a larger transmission fluid cooler does a significantly better job
obviously this cooler mounts between the block and oil filter and runs coolant through separate passages with a common wall to the oil flow so the coolant which is generally 10F-20F cooler than the oil will absorb some of the oils heat load. (use of the extra long oil filter,
BTW I DON,T KNOW WHO SELLS THESE BUT IVE GOT TWO ON MY CORVETTES OIL FILTERS AND THEY EASILY REDUCE OIL TEMPS 7-15 DEGREES
I don,t know where they sell these, finned aluminum filter covers now ,a few years back these were $20 each and significantly longer that this picture shows,
in fact they were the length of the long oil filter ,and believe it or not the combo of the longer oil filter and finned cover dropped my oil temps an additional 5 deg F , EASY TO PROVE by simply removing and replacing the slip on finned cover several times after keeping detailed records while cruising the interstate at a steady 70 mph (not a big difference but for $20 well worth it!
and a larger capacity baffled oil pan, also helps as it exposes more surface area to cooler under the car air flow)
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...fo-and-derale-trans-cool-pans.662/#post-12989
those aluminum finned tube coolers work, are reasonably cheap, very durable ,but a bit restrictive
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-41205/overview/
but they don,t cool trans fluid or oil no where near as efficiently/fast as the larger fan equipped coolers with the AN#8 line size
and in either case finding a place to mount any cooler where you can keep it out of sight and still easily access fresh outside air flow,
is usually a problem for most people
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15850
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15950
one of the most common mistakes less than experienced performance enthusiasts, face and very commonly over-look, is the fact that the internal cross sectional area on many hydraulic and fuel line fittings are considerably more restrictive to flow that the fuel limes or hydraulic lines inside diameter they were designed to be used with, and it varies a great deal between different manufacturers, now ideally the fittings internal passage cross sectional area is both consistent and the same or greater that the tube or hydraulic line size, it listed to match, , so a 1/2" inside diameter fuel line, or hydraulic lines?hoses, for example should have components for the connections and fittings that have significantly smaller internal cross sectional areas, it does you very little good to use lets say, AN#8 or half inch fuel lines if the internal cross sectional area of the connections and fitting used with those lines is only 3/8" or smaller in cross sectional area,this is an area where dealing with a local hydraulic supply shop that has the correct tools and fittings to custom fabricate your fuel lines, coolant or lubrication lines is a very good idea!
talk to a local professional at your local hydraulic supply, measure accurately, take the time to explain what your trying to accomplish and take several pictures to show them what your doing, and get them too fabricate any high pressure fuel or coolant lines and related fittings
*
Up to 45 GPH= 3/4 GPM = 5/16" or -04 AN
*
Up to 90 GPH = 1.5 GPM= 3/8" or -06 AN
*
Up to 250 GPH =4.2 GPM= 1/2" or -08 AN
nearly ideal for transmission and oil coolers
*
Up to 450 GPH =7.5 GPM= 5/8" or -10 AN
*
Up to 900 GPH = 15GPM 3/4"or -12 AN
- https://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/engine-water-pumps.832/post-112049
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Dorman 918-110 Dorman Engine Oil Coolers | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Dorman Engine Oil Coolers with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fluid Coolers at Summit Racing.www.summitracing.com
dorman sells a similar oil cooler that adapts to the oil filter
yes these were on some 1984-1985 corvettes, and yest they tend to both stabilize the oil temps and help keep the oil temps in the reasonable 200-215F range
the rotating assembly bearings ,wrist pins and complete valve train,valve springs, lifters, valves and valve guides and the pistons and rings are where a great deal of the engine heat is generated, and those components are initially cooled with oil flow that absorbs and transfers the heat collected , and transported from those components to the block and coolant, so having a constant flow of pressurized oil flow over those parts are mandatory for maximum durability.thus adding a larger capacity baffled oil pan and an oil cooler will generally enhance and extend an engines life span.
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...sion-and-oil-cooler-increases-durability.176/
clutch fans have a viscus clutch that spins the fan based against the resistance its working against
the fans generally spin the fastest at about 2000-3000 rpm
,so from idle to about 2500 rpm fan speeds increase along with but not directly related too engine rpm,
much above that rpm the resistance won,t allow the fan speeds to increase nearly as fast as rpms increase
so the clutch fans do soak up some engine power , but not nearly as much as a solidly mounted fan would have.
generally the more blades on a quality clutch fan, the better it cools
I generally used to look for the clutch fans of caddys and buicks as many will mount to chevy water pumps with minimal or no mods
most were available from salvage yards dirt cheap in years past you ideally want something similar to this
https://www.ss396.com/chevelle/FANK...MIqpLemIjB6QIVDtbACh1uzwYdEAQYBSABEgKWbvD_BwE
http://www.network54.com/Forum/215655/message/1066184641/Car+Craft+Cooling+Fan+Dyno+Test
don,t forget a matching fan shroud that matched the radiator and fan diameter,greatly increases cooling efficiency
read the links and sub-links
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/correct-thermostat.5607/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/unwanted-engine-bay-heat.12186/#post-59072
"A common misconception is that if coolant flows too quickly through the system, that it will not have time to cool properly. However the cooling system is a closed loop, so if you are keeping the coolant in the radiator longer to allow it to cool, you are also allowing it to stay in the engine longer, which increases coolant temperatures. Coolant in the engine will actually boil away from critical heat areas within the cooling system if not forced through the cooling system at a sufficiently high velocity. This situation is a common cause of so-called "hot spots", which can lead to failures.
Years ago, cars used low pressure radiator caps with upright-style radiators. At high RPM, the water pump pressure would overcome the radiator cap's rating and force coolant out, resulting in an overheated engine. Many enthusiasts mistakenly believed that these situations were caused because the coolant was flowing through the radiator so quickly, that it did not have time to cool. Using restrictors or slowing water pump speed prevented the coolant from being forced out, and allowed the engine to run cooler. However, cars built in the past thirty years have used cross flow radiators that position the radiator cap on the low pressure (suction) side of the system. This type of system does not subject the radiator cap to pressure from the water pump, so it benefits from maximizing coolant flow, not restricting it."
The quote is from Stewart Components website.
If your replacing a damaged or missing fan shroud ,it doesn,t need to be an EXACT match,to the original O.E.M. component
but it should be an IMPROVED design over what its replacing'
in both structural strength and ideally in cosmetic appeal,
a bit of custom fabrication if done correctly,
will add rather than detract from the over all builds visual and functional presents,
ideally you want people to look at what you've done and think
"WOW! why didn,t I think of that!.... DAMN THATS IMPRESSIVE"
rather than "
what the hell was that guy thinking when he installed that crap!"
and sometimes
the difference is only in a few extra minutes grinding welds,
the type of fasteners used, the care taken in the fabrication and careful fitting,
thinking through the over all design,
or a bit of matching paint
Dorman 620-118 Radiator Fan Assembly
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...se1-_-dorman&gclid=CPGMgLCu09ACFUpMDQodAckHvg
1995-96 corvette cooling hoses
THE SECRET to a good solder seal, on a radiator joint, is a totally clean metal (FAIRLY THICK COPPER) surface and the correct solder alloy for the application
most aluminum radiators are EPOXY SEALED NOT WELDED,(yes the better versions are welded)
the problem here is that acid dips to clean the surface with alkaloid dips for PH stabilization and raid steam cleaning of metal surfaces followed by use of , lead acid, or silver solder either makes the EPA and OSHA nuts or its darn expensive.
aluminum is an acceptable but not the best quality substitute, as it rapidly metal fatigues and its difficult to weld if corroded
copper is TWICE AS THERMALLY CONDUCTIVE as aluminum
if your going to use a valve train cooling oil flow to cool the valve springs ,
you'll need to dissipate the heat that oil flow collects as it runs over the surface of those hot valve springs and a combination of a higher capacity baffled oil pan ,
and an auxiliary oil cooler to make transferring the absorbed heat load the oil carries away from the upper engine is almost 100% mandatory if your expecting the oil to cool the valve train for very long.
Id point out that you'll almost certainly want to use an oil cooler that's as large as you have room to effectively use and having a powered fan to increase air flow and heat transfer efficiency will help, bu remember the line size between the engine cooler and back to the engine will generally slightly restrict flow so, I,d advise at least a AN#8 or 1/2" internal cross sectional, size oil or hydraulic lines designed to handle 300F temps and pressure levels with a significant safety margin above what the engine produces, and having large remote mounted oil filter(s) won,t hurt either.
Yes they make dual transmission fluid and oil coolers so you might want to consider that option if you have an automatic transmission and Id sure suggest a fluid temp gauge that accurately measures transmission fluid and a separated gauge for oil temperatures.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-12318
IM currently using this transmission fluid cooler on my 1985 corvette but have used others in the past, and a dual cooler like this certainly has some advantages , if you need both oil and transmission fluid cooling.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-13311
first Id point out that 210-220F while above the temps your used to seeing on the older muscle cars is NOT exceptionally hot, in most modern car engines and while it certainly can be reduced its also not likely to cause you any problems if its controlled and stays under that 220f most of the time, oil should exceed 213F to boil out moisture that can cause acids in the oil to form
(1) the larger the heat transfer surface area the better the system tends to operate, but a minimum of about 1.5-2 square inches of radiator fin area exposed to effective air flow per cubic inch of displacement is generally required
(2) oil does much of the initial heat transfer in the engine, keeping the oil cooled too no more than about 15F above the coolant temp, and it reduces the heat load on the radiator coolant, so adding a high capacity 7-8 quart oil pan with its greater surface area that dissipates heat,and an added fan equipped, remote mounted oil cooler can dramatically reduce engine operational temps.
if you have an automatic transmission the cooler in the lower radiator adds considerable heat load, adding an auxiliary trans fluid cooler helps improve the engines cooling efficiency.
(3) air flow rates are critical so a well designed fan shroud and a fan(s) easily capable of pulling 3000 plus cubic feet per minute in air flow is very helpful
the answer too what cooling system is most likely to both cool the car/truck efficiently and fit your budget,would mostly depend on your budget limitations,
but a large 3-4 tube aluminum radiator with a a 140-to-200 amp alternator
https://www.dbelectrical.com/produc...0-5-7l-7-4l-chevy-truck-93-94-95-200-amp.html
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-8173nep/applications/year/1996
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-a-custom-wet-sump-oil-pan.65/
taking advantage of all your options is a smart way to reproach the issue of correctly controlling, and maintaining a stable and predictable engine heat level, thus installing a larger capacity racing style oil pan and an auxiliary oil cooler with an electrical fan, will significantly increase the engines ability to rapidly dissipate heat even before that engine heat is absorbed by the engines cooling systems coolant. oil flow over a few of the hottest components like valve springs, bearing surfaces,and rocker arms absorb and transfer heat to the block, and oil pan as it flows, thus a larger oil capacity and a baffled oil pan with an extended sump is a good idea as the increased oil capacity and larger surface area of an enlarged sump area exposed too outside air flow can stabilize and allow a good deal of heat to dissipate to that outside air flow, as the air which can be well over 130F-170 plus F cooler that the engine oil that can be up to 250F plus in a racing engine
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dak-pac-2750/reviews
https://www.dewitts.com/collections/corvette-aluminum-radiators
I'd point out that a 7-8 quart baffled oil pan helps cool an engine.
and dual or a large single electric fan with a matched ducted shroud and the ability to move,
2500 fcm-3000 cfm of air should provide adequate cooling for most engines.
adding an auxiliary oil cooler certainly helps
Keep in mind a well designed 7-8 quart baffled oil pan adds both durability and helps reduce cooling issues
and if you have an automatic transmission Id add a electrical fan cooled trans fluid cooler
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RELATED INFO
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...lternators-and-oil-all-here.12628/#post-69303
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...sion-and-oil-cooler-increases-durability.176/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-system-mods-that-help.2187/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-choose-an-electric-fan-in-4-easy-steps.7774/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...tting-out-low-voltage.12221/page-2#post-59599
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...uys-don-t-look-at-the-clues.11176/#post-50125
cooling system / pressure/cooling issue?
BBC with mechanical water pump will hold a lot of pressure for a week or more. When I remove the cap 6 or 7 days after the last drive to check fluid level, the water blows out with pressure. It doesn't seem to loose any fluid while driving but does seem to run hotter than I would like. Have been...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/aluminum-radiator-sources.755/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-system-flow-rates-and-heat-transfer.9880/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/copper-vs-aluminum-in-radiators.4230/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/setting-up-electric-fans-correctly.7150/
RELATED INFO
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-0707-high-performance-cooling-system/
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...per-vs-aluminum-in-radiators.4230/#post-11173
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/leaking-freeze-plugs.846/#post-1621
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/copper-head-gaskets.827/#post-1231
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/preventing-leaky-head-bolts-studs.50/#post-59
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-system-mods-that-help.2187/page-2#post-54400
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sealants-and-threads.805/#post-45066
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/parts-prep-cleaning.6255/#post-41064
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ans-cooler-on-a-c4-corvette.10514/#post-44478
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...flow-rates-and-heat-transfer.9880/#post-37712
a few links may help here
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/oil-filters-related-info.2080/#post-54352
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...l-cooler-increases-durability.176/#post-48374
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/replacing-trans-fluid.10749/#post-46958
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html
http://www.caparadiator.com/aluminumvscopper.html
http://www.cgj.com/2013/07/16/aluminum-vs-copper-brass-radiator-final-thoughts/
READING THE LINKS POSTED BELOW AND SUB_LINKS HELPS
anodes
I got asked if USING anodes, in an engine is a good idea? electrolysis can rapidly cause damage, use of a 50% anti-freeze/50% water coolant mix and at least two good separate engine grounds to the cars frame helps but get out a multi meter and test for voltage in coolant, (more info in links)...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
http://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/cooling_faq.html
http://www.cjponyparts.com/lower-radiat ... 3/p/HW769/
http://www.overclockers.com/water-cooli ... -transfer/
http://download.springer.com/static/pdf ... 1&ext=.pdf
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tech_t ... Tips_6.htm
http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/14_rul ... obiles.htm
keep in mind a great deal of most all initial heat transfer internally is the result of oil flow over moving surfaces like valve train and bearings adding a remote oil cooler and deep baffled oil pan can significantly lower heat loads on the radiator
building a custom wet sump oil pan
The question comes up rather frequently when I suggest buying or modifying oil pans as to "WHY BOTHER?" well its simply the fact that most stock oil pans were designed simply to be the cheapest to manufacture component that would function on an engine that would rarely be spinning over 3500rpm...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
transmission and oil cooler increases durability
If your thinking of adding an oil cooler for either engine oil or trans fluid cooling, ,the first question ID have is WHY are you adding an oil cooler and WHAT are your current oil temps, and transmission fluid temps that require one? IF you can,t tell what your current fluid and oil temps ARE...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
transmission cooler info and derale trans cool pans,
OVERLY HOT TRANS FLUID TEMPERATURE QUICKLY KILLS, A TRANSMISSION, SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCING TRANSMISSION DURABILITY, AND I'D POINT OUT THAT REDUCING THE TEMPERATURE OF TRANSMISSION FLUID ENTERING A RADIATOR HELPS REDUCE HEAT LOADS ON THE RADIATOR ,WHICH TENDS TO REDUCE ENGINE OPERATIONAL TEMPS...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
Choosing An Engine Oil Cooler Or Transmission Fluid Cooler
Hi there, So I'm looking for guidance regarding how to choose an engine oil cooler. I don't want to get one too small or I guess too large. I looked through the threads in part of the forum but did not find anything that popped out at me that I could use to help me. Any guidance or references...
garage.grumpysperformance.com
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