Boiling Coolant When The Engine Is Turned Off.

Indycars said:
What is your quench distance and dynamic compression ration (DCR) ?
Click to expand...
The head gasket is 0.053" thick. The piston is 0.023" down the hole. So quench would be 0.076". I know it show be around 0.040" or so but using a 0.039" thick gasket would put the CR at 10.8:1.

Bore 4.155
Stroke 3.750
Combustion Chamber CC 64.0
Deck Height 0.023
Gasket Thickness 0.053
Gasket Diameter 4.200
Valve Relief +7.00
Top Ring Height 0.300
Ring Land to Cyl. Bore 0.0020
Rod Length 5.700
Intake Closing Angle 65.0
Atmospheric Press 11.8
Dynamic Compression Ratio 8.37
Static Compression Ratio 10.45
Cranking Pressure 139.3
 
Yea a quench distance around .040 would be better for detonation. But it would require
a major expense for pistons with about an 18cc dish and a .021" head gasket. Copper can
be had in .021 inches.
 
Indycars said:
Yea a quench distance around .040 would be better for detonation. But it would require
a major expense for pistons with about an 18cc dish and a .021" head gasket. Copper can
be had in .021 inches.
Click to expand...
The other problem would be gas. I can only get 91 octane here in New Mexico. Don't think the wife would allow the purchase of new pistons and another balance. I see that that would put my dynamic compression down to 8.07 compared to the current 8.37.
 
Indycars said:
What is your quench distance and dynamic compression ration (DCR) ?
Click to expand...
The head gasket is 0.053" thick. The piston is 0.023" down the hole. So quench would be 0.076". I know it show be around 0.040" or so but using a 0.039" thick gasket would put the CR at 10.8:1.

Bore 4.155
Stroke 3.750
Combustion Chamber CC 64.0
Deck Height 0.023
Gasket Thickness 0.053
Gasket Diameter 4.200
Valve Relief +7.00
Top Ring Height 0.300
Ring Land to Cyl. Bore 0.0020
Rod Length 5.700
Intake Closing Angle 65.0
Atmospheric Press 11.8
Dynamic Compression Ratio 8.37
Static Compression Ratio 10.45
Cranking Pressure 139.3
 
Well... instead of new pistons... You could buy a Lindy piston valve notcher and remove a small amount from the piston pockets to lower compression. Then you could purchase a set of Cometic Head gaskets . I believe you can get them as low as .027 thickness. To use the tool, just bring the piston to TDC, tape off the piston to the cylinder wall (to stop chips from falling down the side), then rig up a shop vac to the spark plug hole to remove the chips as you cut. Slow going but it would work. If you remove the same amount from each piston, I do not think the balance would be affected ... except for the BOB- weight. which I dont think would be that bad
 
Hello everybody. Think I got the boiling issue solved. I replaced the head gaskets (Fel-Pro 1144053) but this time I drilled the steamer holes on the bottom of the cylinders. Hot lap around town and parked in the driveway, shut the motor off and temp climbed to 210 degrees. Cruz'n down the road the temp held steady at 175 - 180 degrees, climbed to 182 at the stop lights. I'm using Preston 50/50 (orange) and water wetter. Also replaced my ole 68 Z28 factory manifold with a Edelbrock Performer Air Gap manifold so now the MSD Atomic EFI needs to learn the the intake. I noted that the Z28 manifold was not sealing around the intake ports like it should and sucking oil out of the lifter galley. Thanks for all the input, greatly appreciated.
 
Im glad to see your making progress!
the symptoms seem to indicate,
that you would benefit from a radiator with a greater volume and fin surface area.
remember OIL flow does a great deal of the initial engine cooling ,
so an oil cooler with a powered fan,
can make a significant improvement in engine cooling rates,
remember oil flow is what absorbs a great deal of engine heat,
from the valve train and rotating assembly components,
and transfers that absorbed heat to the coolant, and outside air, as it flows,
away from the hotter parts , over the block and head surfaces, in its travel back to the oil pan sump, that. oil flow allows the coolant to absorb and transfer that generated heat to the coolant, where the heats transferred and dissipated to outside airflow through the radiator and fans.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...oosing-an-engine-oil-cooler.15375/#post-90261

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...sion-and-oil-cooler-increases-durability.176/



radcool.png

radcool1.jpg


the fact that the coolant temp increases at lower vehicle speeds indicate that higher air flow transfer rates are required, the fact that the block acts like a heat sink and the radiator surface area is not able to dissipate the trapped heat when the engine fans turned of even with the engine not running further validates the need for a larger radiator.
look at posted charts (above)
diagramoilroute.gif


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15850
obviously you need to measure accurately and have a place to mount any oil cooler, on your vehicle to use one, and room for the connecting lines and fittings,
but adding a quality oil cooler like this to a car/truck will also noticeably help engine oil cooling and increase engine durability

der-15850_xl.jpg



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15820
der-15820_w.jpg


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15830
der-15830_w.jpg


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-45951
flx-45951_w.jpg


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-13182

prm-13182_rz_xl.jpg



a restriction to oil flow will generally be the part of the connecting lines with the smallest cross sectional area, if you look at most automotive oil or transmission coolers they have AN#6 (3/8")or AN#8 (1/2")connections, so lines significantly larger won,t do much for increasing flow rates but larger cross sectional area will increase efficiency marginally

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ing-system-flow-rates-and-heat-transfer.9880/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/thoughts-on-cooling.149/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/how-the-cooling-system-works-basics.853/
 
Last edited:
Don Norton said:
Think I got the boiling issue solved. I replaced the head gaskets (Fel-Pro 1144053) but this time I drilled the steamer holes on the bottom of the cylinders. Hot lap around town and parked in the driveway, shut the motor off and temp climbed to 210 degrees.
Click to expand...

How long have you been driving it with the new setup ?
 
Now that's a good test!

So many times that I have wanted something I did to fix the problem, I see what I want to see some times. ;)
 
Update: After many experiments I changed out the water pump with one that has an 8 blade impeller. EFI is set at 14.7 idle, 14.7 cruz, 12.5 wot, Timing is set at 8 degrees BTDC, 180 degree thermostat with one 1/8" hole drilled in it, fan 1 on at 180, fan 2 on at 185 degrees. And Red Line water wetter. On these nice 90+ days the motor runs at 175 to 180. It'll climb to 190 if I get on it hard, to be expected. Now that the motor is loosening up from the break in, 2900 miles so far, I think that is also helping. Thanks for the input everybody.
 
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