building custom headers

Its a Good topic to review today once again Grumpy.

Thinking of Tri-Y headers.
Be nice to have another set For My T/A Tri Y design.
Broden the Torque band on the street or at least try it.
Experiment & Tune.

HO Racing made them in the past for my TA with Round Port heads.
Long gone headers. Very hard to find.

Like to fab a set of my own In Eds Garage.
Future date.

Have My Big Tube Hooker Super Comps.
Been a real good set of headers overall.
Sure improvements can be made in collector design.
Never had to smash a header tube.
Just clear all.
 
building a kick ass set of headers that provide excellent exhaust scavenging, and proper spark plug and frame and suspension clearance takes a great deal of test fitting ,accurate measuring and detailed planing , this is not really a job you want to take on without someone who is experienced in welding and properly fitting sections of tubing,and the longer I have spent time in this performance car hobby the more convinced I've become that you need a few basic tools like a
decent drill press , used with multi angle vise or MILL,
a 12-20 ton hydraulic press
and a decent quality TIG or at least a damn good MIG welder
belt sander , work bench and a couple other basic tools,
the tooling and skills to build or modify your cars exhaust system or build headers are not that difficult to acquire, but it takes time practice and you gain experience by making mistakes, so its always a good idea to ask lots of questions, watch lots of instructional videos and as usually measure twice before cutting once. the job can be simplified if you start with the readily available sub assemblies,
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HOK-11622HKR/
hok-11622hkr_w.jpg

theres pre-welded collectors, its really not all that difficult
yeah, "not enough coffee" and taking the time and effort, too ,
make accurate measurements

and writing them down and sketching out ,
while in the planing stages.. of making or fitting custom parts,
and constantly checking clearances,
before, your start the actual parts fabrication process,

several times, REPEATEDLY in the fabrication process.
tends to make , or allow most of us, to have too go back and re-think ,
and usually modify our original plans,

on the plus side it frequently results in having a bit more time and being a bit more alert, to the other options,
or routes one might take, or ways to accomplish the intended results.
you might be amazed at the number of times a cardboard and duct tape pattern ,
assembled before you start on the actual parts brings into glaring light,
the potential mods and flaws and clearance issues,
that will need to be carefully addressed in the actual components being fabricated.
more than once Ive been in the process of installing an oil cooler,
fabricating an oil pan, or building a custom accessory bracket,
only to find the original design needed to be tweaked to fit,
and function or allow access to some other part, or its mounting bolts.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035K0XCC/ref=psdc_552882_t3_B0000DD2RO
71h4.jpg

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLO-C134218234/

flo-c134218234_w.jpg
the main reason I recently purchased a NEW TIG WELDER
was to have the tools to build, customize and repair exhaust systems and headers

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/header-paints-and-coatings.6086/#post-57067

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/thermal-coatings.2610/#post-12861

building custom headers

theres a great deal of useful info in these links , and sub linked info so don,t skip over them without looking thru carefully, as theres years of experience to be gained yeah its amazing how everything costs ten times what you think it will and takes five times longer to do even at that...
garage.grumpysperformance.com

building custom headers

Its a Good topic to review today once again Grumpy. Thinking of Tri-Y headers. Be nice to have another set For My T/A Tri Y design. Broden the Torque band on the street or at least try it. Experiment & Tune. HO Racing made them in the past for my TA with Round Port heads. Long gone headers...
garage.grumpysperformance.com


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DTC-80-01514C/
dtc-80-00514.jpg

collectors.jpg

PURCHASING A KIT TO EASILY TEST FIT A DESIGN WOULD BE IDEAL
and would most likely pay for itself inside of fabricating three or four sets of headers just in less wasted scrap and mistakes that could be avoided , that would certainly be made without the kit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EVT-2000PRO/?rtype=10
248 piece 2" exhaust lego kit
http://www.icengineworks.com/#!online-store/csgx/!/2000Series-PRO-PLUS/p/44994033/category=11578480
http://www.icengineworks.com/#!howitworks/c1se

if you want max engine performance under predictable conditions,
it will take some testing, measuring and thought,:D

could you give us some idea as too,
engine displacement"
bore and stroke ?
connecting rod length,
engines intended power band?
transmission shift points?
the cam timing, (lift ,duration)?
cylinder head flow rates,?
static compression ratio,?
ignition advance curve,?
intake valve diameter?
intake port cross sectional area?
intake runner length?
exhaust valve diameter?
, and header primary tube diameter?
and length?
fuel/air ratio every 1000 rpm?
exhaust back pressure in the collector every 1000 rpm?
intake plenum vacuum every 1000 rpm?
with that data we can stop random guess work,
and have at least some facts to work with,
to make a semi logical guess as to what changes might help.
guessing is fast and easy, getting a few facts and working out the details is a bit harder but more productive

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculators.htm

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/calculating-header-design.185/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-custom-headers.961/


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ful-exhaust-valve-size-and-header-info.11265/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/dyno-testing-headers.3529/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/calculating-required-exhaust-pipe-size.11552/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-guys-that-just-slap-on-factory-headers.3155/
reading these threads and sub links may help

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/calculating-header-design.185/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-custom-headers.961/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-between-shorty-and-full-length-headers.1303/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/calculating-required-exhaust-pipe-size.11552/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/calculating-header-design.185/


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/header-dimension-calculator.15013/


http://www.bgsoflex.com/auto.html

http://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator5.php

more related links and info

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-custom-headers.961/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/calculating-header-design.185/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/what-diam-headers-do-i-need.7017/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/exhaust-components.361/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-guys-that-just-slap-on-factory-headers.3155/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...arder-too-find-exhaust-system-components.496/
evt-2000pro_w.jpg


wpb02c7f34_05_06.jpg


http://www.icengineworks.com/how-it-works/

http://www.icengineworks.com

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/evt-2000basic/overview/

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/evt-2000proplus/overview/

http://www.icengineworks.com/#!howitworks/c1se



http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp ... ipe_dream/

225 piece 1.75" exhaust lego kit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EVT-1750PRO/

http://www.icengineworks.com/icewmain.htm
icedf1.png

icedf2.png

icedf3.png

howblocks.JPG


RaceClimax1.JPG


featuresoptimize.JPG


featuresstep.JPG


howstep.JPG

Id say about 60%-70% of the time when I visit other,
older and experienced guys garages,
Ill find most of those larger basic tools in some form.
and when you visit some shops your impressed and a bit envious when the old geezer has called you over to help, and you find he has some tool like a MILL or LATHE that you wish you had, or frustrated when you could easily do some job with the tools in your shop, but can,t do them in their shop simply because they lack a decent set of tools.
and you damn sure need to learn how to use those basic tools.
this is an area where most of us can,t really afford all the tools we would like or in many cases we don,t have the room available to store the tools, but you can occasionally join a local hot rod or performance car club and find several of the older more experienced members who own the required tooling and have the experience too either help you out at a slightly lower total cost than a professional machine shop or muffler shop, would charge, ... or ideally teach you how to do the work yourself.
this hobby almost mandates the acquisition of quality mechanics tools
a few larger shop tools and a constant upgrade of your machine shop knowledge.
OR a damn deep set of financial pockets and frequent trips to a local machine shop where youll wait longer and pay significantly more to do things or have them done for you (frequently done to crap quality, unless you find a damn good machinist that gives a crap about quality work at a fair price) which is about as likely as your wife setting you up with, and paying for, a high quality escort service for your birthday

related threads and sub links
http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...r-a-roll-cage-this-might-help.271/#post-67171


http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/tips-on-mig-welding.14225/#post-72261

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/in-the-market-for-a-metal-cutting-miter-saw.3184/#post-8478

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-an-exhaust-system-for-your-car.1166/#post-30424

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/belt-sanders.13148/#post-68577

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/every-shop-needs-a-decent-drill-press.970/#post-50726

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/build-a-welding-table.11814/#post-55954

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/work-bench-plans.4384/#post-43320

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/welding-accesories-that-come-in-really-handy.9306/#post-33630

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/teaching-yourself-to-weld.8086/#post-28037

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/milling-machine-related.4231/#post-11181

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/need-a-shop-vise.375/

if in doubt, about the header component size and length etc.
always assume a marginally ,or a bit longer primary tube and marginally smaller diameter collector, to be a valid choice.
as this tends to slightly favor the mid rpm ranges,
of a bit shorter length exiting to a LARGER diameter exhaust.
(preferably with an X-pipe within as close a distance as possible and low flow restriction muffler's)

will work rather well.
keep in mind the scavenging efficiency changes with rpms, displacement and compression ratio as well as with the ignition timing
fuel air ratio , valve sizes, port flow rates and exhaust gas temps, so minor changes in length/diameter etc.
only marginally change where in the rpm range peak cylinder scavenging efficiency occurs,

minor changes won't be very noticeable, could you even begin to feel a peak scavenging efficiency or peak power,
if the difference was 30-60 rpm difference? as you run up through the gears, remember you might only be in a gear, for a couple seconds,
and during that couple seconds the engine might go from 5500rpm-6800rpm on an engine you built for performance use,
and while a street engine may be in a gear between shifts marginally longer ,
and may operate at only lets say 4500rpm-5900rpm that 30-60 rpm difference will be only seen on a precise dyno,

and that peak power last less than a fraction of a single second at best during a gear change.
so don,t sweat minor changes in collector or primary tube length.





 
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I see similar threads all the time on a dozen web sites, bemoaning the fact theres no reasonably priced ,

off the shelf exhaust for the particular car that someone owns

most commercially available exhaust systems are not anywhere close in quality too what you can custom fabricate,

if you have a few basic tools and understand how to both cut and weld exhaust pipe tube


AS my dad always stated..
"A couple hours , well spent in doing carefully documented &,detailed research,
before.... jumping head first off the dock,
into any project,....can prevent you from wasting month's of non-productive work and a wheel barrow full of cash!!"


how many of you gentlemen own a decent MIG or TIG welder and have the skills to use it correctly to custom fabricate a full exhaust system?

yes it takes time and skills and a decent welder, but its certainly not impossible to accomplish.

now you certainly don,t need a car lift or a $3000 welder , but yeah it does tend to make things go faster.

the first exhaust system I custom built was done with a borrowed oxyacetylene welding torch and duct tape and a hack saw.



http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi

https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200659543_200659543

https://www.musclecardiy.com/perfor...t-system-math-build-high-performance-engines/

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200365076_200365076

https://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator5.php

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/exhaust-thinking-of-your-options.13115/

http://www.angelfire.com/scifi/ulfcobra/accobradesign_exhaust.html

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/calculating-required-exhaust-pipe-size.11552/

http://www.wallaceracing.com/header_length.php

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/choosing-the-right-exhaust/28758

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/building-an-exhaust-system-for-your-car.1166/

https://itstillruns.com/exhaust-header-length-calculation-8428151.html

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/anti-reversion-exhaust-design.789/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...-exhaust-pipe-diam-for-your-application.1730/




 
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My first set was for my '55 Chevy with a 455 Olds engine welded with oxy/acetylene and coat hangers dipped borax. Still do/did some repairs like that on exhaust systems even though the materials are a little different now.
 
That's amazing what you could do back then when we didn't have to have perfection in looks, but
something that functioned.
 
when selecting exhaust pipe for headers or exhaust, pipes,
remember STAINLESS tube may cost more but it also tends to last far longer,
keep in mind ceramic coating helps increase the header durability, and tends to reduce rust ,
and remember heat and cooling off in moisture is the thing that is causing most wear,
heat is related to the fuel/air ratio and ignition timing ,
if the engine runs lean or the timings retarded exhaust heat tends to increase.
http://www.spdexhaust.com/TubingB.html

1013.jpg

2017-06-20_17-18-16.jpg

5C.jpg
 
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I just noticed a space between the headers and the block on the drivers side (sbc), and a space under the bolt head and header on the passenger side. I really didn’t notice any exhaust leak sounds. I’m not excited about the prospect of finding seized bolts or any trouble for that matter, trying to tighten these bolts to the right torque!
 





yeah there's a whole bunch of these short videos on welding stainless headers and exhaust,
and yes each video, has several tips or bits of info you can use and redundant info in some cases,
but only a novice would assume he knows everything about a rather complicated process ,
that when done correctly looks like ART! rather than a simple way to join tubing.
yes it takes a bit of time to watch but take a few notes, remember products, welder settings,

types of materials and products, not all stainless steel is similar or require or will even weld correctly,
using universal methods or materials or welder settings etc.
having the correct tools and learning how to use them correctly ,
can save you an enormous amount of time and effort and in many cases cash!
(obviously the tools and skills vary with the job at hand,)
so doing your research in online forums and joining a muscle car or corvette club,
where you might find a local skilled mentor to teach you skills and tools to use, helps in some cases,
it can also at times make you cash in a side job helping other car guys, or lead to a new career :like:
 
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one more reason in an endless list of why any mechanic should own a decent accurate, infrared temp gun:like: for trouble shooting
index.php

and yes you should invest in a few larger quality tools like a TIG or MIG welder, a drill press,
metal cutting miter saw ,hydraulic press etc, if your into working on cars
 
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after watching the video's the ,impressive fabrication skills ,
you might want to think through the issues, under the oil pan headers solve and cause,
with much increased heat generation,
or heat absorption in the oil pan and oil volume,in the oil pan.
lower oil pan volume in the oil pan, that is necessary to allow clearance under the car and oil pan,
and clearance issues from header pipes directly under the oil pan,
with the design of headers in the video.
 
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Sugaring, a type of oxidation that occurs when oxygen reacts with stainless steel during welding, can be prevented by protecting the weld from oxygen. Here are some ways to do that:
  • Purge the tube or pipe
    Before welding, use a purge plug system to remove oxygen from the pipe or tube and replace it with an inert gas, like argon. This process is called purging. A sufficient purge should have less than 1% oxygen or a dew point of -40°C (-40°F). However, purging can be difficult due to the complexity of the system, which can result in incomplete air displacement.
  • Use shielding gas
    Many types of welding use shielding gas to protect welds from atmospheric interference, which is important for preventing sugaring.
  • Use the Miller® RMD® process
    This modified version of the short-circuit GMAW process can be used instead of traditional TIG welding to eliminate the need for purging gas.
  • Sugaring can significantly reduce stainless steel's anti-corrosive properties, making it more likely to rust and deteriorate structurally. In process piping industries, sugaring can also lead to a buildup of materials and become a breeding ground for bacteria and contaminants.

  • One of the best techniques for preventing sugaring is properly purging tube and pipes before welding. Using a purge plug system to remove O2 from the workpiece and replacing it with a welding gas will greatly reduce the chances of sugaring and other welding faults.

  • There is Argon gas purging, via different methods.
    There is also a product called Solar Flux. http://www.solarflux.com/Pages/Productinfo.html
    The product is a paste that protects the backside. The problem is it leaves a residue and is not suitable for food grade. (great product if those two are not a concern).
and solarflux won't work with all stainless or types of tig welding rods in all conditions so ask questions and listen closely to answers




 
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