To start you should just run the heat up on the casting alloy in the pot and test cast a few dozen bullets to heat the mold,
the lead will be in about the 780f-850f range, until the bullets you cast have an obviously FROSTED exterior,
when you pour the mold over fill it so a glob of excess lead forms on the moveable , shear plate ,part of the mold, watch it change temps BEFORE you open the mold every time,
and fully fill the molds, this will take awhile for the hot lead and the mold to semi stabilize then
keep slowly reducing the temperature just until, the cast projectiles still fully fill the mold,
and still have a just marginally frosted appearance, this temperature will vary some-what with the antimony, tin, and lead content
but if the mold lubricant grooves are crisp and there's ZERO wrinkles and the projectile maintain a mild frosted appearance the molds filling to the max volume and weight, and the projectiles will be the most consistent in diameter, weight and consistency.
keep in mind the rate at whicH you CAST AFFECTS THE MOLD TEMP, if you generally cast like I do and drop bullets in a 7 gallon pail that's got about 6 gallons of water and a few drops of dawn dish was soap to break the water surface temp you'll get good results, don't worry about bullets being damaged they harden completely and the water in the pail reduces the impact speed with the bottom of the pail
read the LINKED THREADS
scholar.google.com
ID suppose I should point out that lead bullet alloy has a huge effect on the projectiles performance, it affects the projectiles ability to grab and hold the weapons bore ,walls rifling to maximize and maintain accuracy, it effects the projectiles penetration and expansion characteristics and velocity limits. harger bullet alloys expand slower and penetrate deeper and generally have better...
THESE 260-270 grain bullet molds produce a great compromise providing good accuracy and penetration but a bit lower recoil than the 300-310 grain bullet designs that provide a bit deeper penetration in the 44 mag and 445 DWSM revolver
I recently ordered 3 more bullet molds from
www.accuratemolds.com
mostly for the guys I reload for that handgun hunt,
as they paid for most of the cost,of those molds but I get to hold them in my inventory for my use and they get lower cost ammo,
(I've used similar or borrowed molds, from several guys I hunted with in FLA, for each application for decades)
(yes I chipped in about 35% on each mold and several guys chipped in 20%-33%,on each mold that matched the cartridges they use.
(2-4 guys chipped in that will be wanting custom ammo, for each mold/caliber, we selected as...
you'll generally want to buy a couple wooden replacement hammer handles and use one to CAREFULLY tap open and close the mold sheer plate as wood used carefully won't damage a mold, I usually screw in an screw eye in the handle end the hammer head fits on to allow it to be hung up in plain sight when not in use,
here's a tip, leave the last fill of hot lead in the mold when you put it away.(but before it fully cools spray it with wd40 and after it cools place the oil soaked mold in a 2 gallon zip lock bag and store it sealed in a dry place
once its cooled I spray mine with WD40 (it will burn off at next use after about 10 test fills to get it fully warmed)
when you get a new mold use dawn dish wash liquid and a tooth brush to get the mold free of preservation grease,
before use, spray the mold with mold release

