dry sump oil systems

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
DRY SUMP is kind of a misrepresentation, you still have high pressure oil flowing thru the engine, it just gets scavenged and routed back thru several oil pump stages and a holding tank rather than draining back into a sump under the engine, the advantage is mostly that rapid changes in direction,or (G-force changes) or inertia forces don,t have nearly the same chance to disrupt oil pressure at the bearings, or uncover the oil pump pick-up like in a wet sump system where sudden changes in direction or hard acceleration or braking can UN-cover the oil pump pick-up and allow air to get pumped to the bearings


READ THESE

http://www.rehermorrison.com/techtalk/36.htm

http://www.rehermorrison.com/techtalk/21.htm

http://www.williamsperformance.com/

http://www.moroso.com/articles/articled ... lPans.html

http://www.stockcarracing.com/techartic ... index.html

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Schematic diagram of a basic dry-sump engine lubrication system.
The oil collects in sump(1)
,is withdrawn continuously by scavenge pump (2)
and travels to the oil tank (3)
, where gases entrained in the oil separate and the oil cools. Gases (4)
forces the de-gassed and cooled oil (5)
back to the engine's lubrication points(6)
are returned to the engine sump. Pressure pump (7)



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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_sump

http://www.drysump.com/index1.htm

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question331.htm





You'll need the following components to complete your dry sump system:
1.a oil pan designed for the correct scavaging of the oil, usually with three or more intake or suction port connections
2 Engine block mounting brackets for the pump. and the oil reservoir tank
3. Gilmer belt pulley for crankshaft and the pump assembly (you might also need drive pulleys for water pump, alternator, and any other accessory).
4. Scavenge line filters to keep large crud in the oil out of the pump.
5 Remote oil storage tank.
6. Additional flexible oil lines of the correct heat resistance size and pressure rating and fittings to plumb the entire system.(usually AN fittings)
7 Pressure side oil filter.
8 Block adapters for oil filter boss and pressurized oil inlet at the old oil pump location.
9. Assorted fasteners, clampes, etc. to route the oil lines.
10. clearance to mount the oil scavaging pump where the headers and frame won,t totally restrict access to it or the lines
11 I've always preferred a few magnets in the lower engine to trap metallic dust/crud
 
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OilSystem.png

pros-and-cons-of-a-dry-sump-engine-oiling-system-2019-04-18_18-08-01_869088-960x621.jpg

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https://www.enginelabs.com/engine-tech/pros-and-cons-of-installing-a-dry-sump-engine-oiling-system/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bbc-oil-gallery-plugs-drill-holes.15273/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/odd-oil-pressure-drop.14612/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/bbc-gen-vi-no-oil-pressure.14987/#post-84634

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...g-block-for-stroker-assembly.2855/#post-77609

yes this swap to dry sump vs wet sump, can get rather expensive ,
but it allows more ground clearance and more dependable and consistent oil flow and pressure at the bearings

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the tall deck block requires a longer reach distributor shaft thats about 0.28 longer thus the need for the adjustable collar on the distributor adding the extra reach to get the oil pump drive and drive gears to properly align and mesh.


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be aware theres an oil supply passage in the lower block skirt, and coolant passages that extend quite low on the mark IV blocks so you can't just grind excessive rod clearance, for crank counter weights and large, longer stroke , stroker type crank's to the same extent you can get away with on the later MARK V and VI blocks, or the far better choice of a DART aftermarket block, so you'll need to be careful,doing clearance grinding,I would advise limiting stroke lengths to a 4.375" max, even in the tall deck truck MARK IV blocks, the later Mark V and VI blocks have that passage up near the cam tunnel
 
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just a tip here, most effective dry sump systems have a 12-14 quart storage tank
an 12 lines and fittings strongly recommended
use of 6-7 quart tanks frequently result in pressure loss intermittently,
You only have atmosphere pressure and gravity in the oil pan sump , and some baffling that aids to get the oil back to the pump.
oil scavenging Pumps do NOT suck very efficiently.
(especially with a froth of oil and air in the mix being scavenged by a dry sump system.)
No pump likes any suction restriction, and the distance to the oil storage tank and oil pump is the major flow restriction.
added oil coolers can reduce flow rates and pressure at the engines bearings, if the oil lines and line fittings are not sized large enough (generally AN12 minimum)
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an oil pan with three or 4 oil pick up points
chp-cp221_in_xl.jpg

chp-cp221_cc_xl.jpg

 
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