DRY SUMP is kind of a misrepresentation, you still have high pressure oil flowing thru the engine, it just gets scavenged and routed back thru several oil pump stages and a holding tank rather than draining back into a sump under the engine, the advantage is mostly that rapid changes in direction,or (G-force changes) or inertia forces don,t have nearly the same chance to disrupt oil pressure at the bearings, or uncover the oil pump pick-up like in a wet sump system where sudden changes in direction or hard acceleration or braking can UN-cover the oil pump pick-up and allow air to get pumped to the bearings
READ THESE
http://www.rehermorrison.com/techtalk/36.htm
http://www.rehermorrison.com/techtalk/21.htm
http://www.williamsperformance.com/
http://www.moroso.com/articles/articled ... lPans.html
http://www.stockcarracing.com/techartic ... index.html
Schematic diagram of a basic dry-sump engine lubrication system.
The oil collects in sump(1)
,is withdrawn continuously by scavenge pump (2)
and travels to the oil tank (3)
, where gases entrained in the oil separate and the oil cools. Gases (4)
forces the de-gassed and cooled oil (5)
back to the engine's lubrication points(6)
are returned to the engine sump. Pressure pump (7)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_sump
http://www.drysump.com/index1.htm
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question331.htm
You'll need the following components to complete your dry sump system:
1.a oil pan designed for the correct scavaging of the oil, usually with three or more intake or suction port connections
2 Engine block mounting brackets for the pump. and the oil reservoir tank
3. Gilmer belt pulley for crankshaft and the pump assembly (you might also need drive pulleys for water pump, alternator, and any other accessory).
4. Scavenge line filters to keep large crud in the oil out of the pump.
5 Remote oil storage tank.
6. Additional flexible oil lines of the correct heat resistance size and pressure rating and fittings to plumb the entire system.(usually AN fittings)
7 Pressure side oil filter.
8 Block adapters for oil filter boss and pressurized oil inlet at the old oil pump location.
9. Assorted fasteners, clampes, etc. to route the oil lines.
10. clearance to mount the oil scavaging pump where the headers and frame won,t totally restrict access to it or the lines
11 I've always preferred a few magnets in the lower engine to trap metallic dust/crud
READ THESE
http://www.rehermorrison.com/techtalk/36.htm
http://www.rehermorrison.com/techtalk/21.htm
http://www.williamsperformance.com/
http://www.moroso.com/articles/articled ... lPans.html
http://www.stockcarracing.com/techartic ... index.html
Schematic diagram of a basic dry-sump engine lubrication system.
The oil collects in sump(1)
,is withdrawn continuously by scavenge pump (2)
and travels to the oil tank (3)
, where gases entrained in the oil separate and the oil cools. Gases (4)
forces the de-gassed and cooled oil (5)
back to the engine's lubrication points(6)
are returned to the engine sump. Pressure pump (7)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_sump
http://www.drysump.com/index1.htm
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question331.htm
You'll need the following components to complete your dry sump system:
1.a oil pan designed for the correct scavaging of the oil, usually with three or more intake or suction port connections
2 Engine block mounting brackets for the pump. and the oil reservoir tank
3. Gilmer belt pulley for crankshaft and the pump assembly (you might also need drive pulleys for water pump, alternator, and any other accessory).
4. Scavenge line filters to keep large crud in the oil out of the pump.
5 Remote oil storage tank.
6. Additional flexible oil lines of the correct heat resistance size and pressure rating and fittings to plumb the entire system.(usually AN fittings)
7 Pressure side oil filter.
8 Block adapters for oil filter boss and pressurized oil inlet at the old oil pump location.
9. Assorted fasteners, clampes, etc. to route the oil lines.
10. clearance to mount the oil scavaging pump where the headers and frame won,t totally restrict access to it or the lines
11 I've always preferred a few magnets in the lower engine to trap metallic dust/crud
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