electrical problem

jondeer437

New Member
Hey guys i have 89corvette convertible I have a issue that i having trouble with the car will crank up and run fine u can drive it wear ever runs good but when u shut it off it want crank till it cools completely down I have changed the ignition module anyone got tips sure could use sum
 

Welcome to the forum, glad you decided to join.
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When it does start after just cooling off, do you get black smoke? How much?


You know what they say about a post without pictures !!!! :p

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as always start with the purchase of a FACTORY shop manual , for your particular year corvette,and a multi-meter and a fuel pressure/vacuum gauge, then pull trouble codes.
if it won,t start its related to a failure of the ignition or fuel delivery systems, or a defective sensor(S) and YOULL NEED TO TEST to determine the cause, and you can,t ASSUME anything without testing, theres NO INSTANT,QUICK ANSWERS, YOUR JUST GUESSING, UNLESS YOU DO SOME TESTING,
but there are fairly fast and easy tests that will rapidly lead you too answers, and narrow down the cause of any problem, allowing you to isolate then correct the issue

buy a CHEVY SHOP MANUAL FOR YOUR YEAR CORVETTE!
think logically,what changed, the engine heated up and you had some fuel pressure flowing thru the engines fuel delivery system, if it starts up and runs but after its run, won,t re-start, its more than likely either a heat or sensor related problem or fuel pressure related issue, obviously a bit of testing helps isolate it.(pulling trouble codes tends to help locate this)
set and verify your ignition timing, pull trouble codes,set your tps and iac,, then check for vacuum leaks on the lines and intake,then get out your multi meter and verify all the sensors, chances are good its a defective heat sensor or defective o2 sensor, a logical step by step approach will lead you to the problem, youll be amazed at what youll learn reading links. use of a shop manual and multi meter can be very helpful
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Item# 1677827

having a quick easy to use auto voltage test checker helps speed the diagnosis
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as most of us who work on cars know chasing minor electrical glitches is a P.I.T.A. and it helps a good deal to have at least a minimal quality multi meter and test leads, and a scan tool, that can be used to, locate isolate and test THRU insulation on wires, and a tool to pull trouble codes and do minimal programming.

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a vacuum and fuel pressure gauge is useful
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learn to use the factory shop manual, and a multi meter and LISTEN to the engine closely, tapping and high pitch whines can indicate defective injectors or fuel pressure regulators, fuel pumps,mis- adjusted valve train components, worn distributor parts, check all the fuses and electrical grounds and corrosion on connections thats something thats frequently over looked etc. this process of finding the cause of a problem, is basically a detailed check list and once you understand what your looking at and what its supposed to do after each components tested, is basically a simple procedure if you test, and eliminating potential sources until you narrow it down to the cause, where you prove it then re-place, repair or adjust as required.
yes youll need to have some test equipment like, a shop manual, multi- meters and pressure gauges, timing lights etc. but its not that difficult

https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relaydiagrams.asp (read)
related threads to help locate the problems source



Ive purchased several 200 amp alternators from the guys at DB ELECTRIC for friends and my 1985 corvette, and for my 1996 vette at summit
this infos bound to be helpful at times
Sensor Locations

Sensor
Location

Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. Front of engine, below Throttle Body.
Engine Oil Temperature Sensor. Left rear of engine, just above the oil filter.
Oil Pressure Sender/Switch. Top, left hand rear of engine.
Fuel Quantity Sender. Top of fuel tank, beneath filler pipe escutcheon panel.
MAT (Manifold Absolute Temperature Sensor). Underside of manifold air plenum at rear.
Outside Temperature Sensor. Right side of engine, top right corner of radiator.
In Car Temp Temperature Sensor. Coupe: above left seat near interior courtesy light, Convertible: center of cargo compartment lid.
MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor. Front of engine ahead of throttle body.
Oxygen (O2) Sensor. Left side of engine, in exhaust pipe.
TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). Right side of throttle body at the front.


Sensor Outputs:

Sensor
Measured Value

Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. 185 Ohms @ 210F, 3400 Ohms @ 68F, 7,500 Ohms @ 39 F.
Engine Oil Temperature Sensor. 185 Ohms @ 210 F, 3400 Ohms @ 68 F, 7,500 Ohms @39 F.
Oil Pressure Sender/Switch. 1 Ohms @ 0 PSI, 43 Ohms @ 30 PSI, 86 Ohms @ 60 PSI.
Fuel Quantity Sender. 0 Ohms @ Empty, 45 Ohms @ 1/2 Full, 90 Ohms @ Full.
MAT (Manifold Absolute Temperature Sensor). 185 Ohms @ 210 F, 3400 Ohms @ 70 F, 15,000 Ohms @ 40 F.
Outside Temperature Sensor. 4400 Ohms @ 60 F, 2200 Ohms @ 85 F.
In Car Temp Temperature Sensor. 4400 Ohms @ 60 F, 2200 Ohms @ 85 F.
MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor. .4 Volts @ idle, 5 Volts @ Full Throttle.
Oxygen (O2) Sensor. .1 Volt Lean Mixture, .9 Volt Rich Mixture.
TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). .54 Volts Idle, ~ 5 Volts Full Throttle.
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when you say it wont crank, what happens when you turn the key? nothing? no sound? no click?

or

does it turn over and over and never actually turn ON
 
Sounds like your starter is cooking and getting too hot.

Is it close to exhaust pipes?

When the electric motor gets very hot, it loses is electro magnetic properties until it cools. So you may have to wait 30 min or more till it will crank again.

You may need to replace the starter + shield it from the heat.

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