enclosed cam tunnel

Chad Speier

Active Member
This site has some of the best detailed work and pictures on the internet!

So I will ask. Anyone seen or have any good data on enclosing a wet sump cam tunnel?
 
I have never seen a wet sump block completely enclosed. Of course I have seen dry sumps. I have seen a few guys put a tray under the camp tunnel and drain oil to the pan in the back. Seemed to work well for freeing up parasitic loss. It would be interesting to see the gains. Let us know if you do it, you have the know how and skill to pull it off.
 
there's some discussion here, but I don't know anyone currently doing this on chevy blocks or anyone who thinks the efforts worth the potential results
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I'm still trying to figure how how to properly do it with a wet sump. However, this is what was done to the top side. Good or bad. My only issue is that rear hole is right over the counterweight. But working on a fix or something to aid if it causes issues.
 

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I'm going to epoxy the plates down and fill all the void. Also notice I ground a saddle in those braces.
 
most of the guys that I know who bothered bored the cam tunnel for a press fit thin steel tube,
used the block as a pattern to find where
the obviously needed material needed to be removed, oil passages, lifter bores, drilled and cam bearings inserted and aligned, with drilled oil passages, lifter bores that fit the tube and cam journals pressed, etc.
btw this is more easily done(finding the passage locations) with a rolled up section of graph paper inserted into the bored cam tunnel

again, way more work & expense than any potential benefit you might gain in my and most peoples opinions:facepalm:
 
most of which can be regained easily, with a properly designed windage screen and crank scraper design on a baffled oil pan of about 7-8 quat capacity

 
most of which can be regained easily, with a properly designed windage screen and crank scraper design on a baffled oil pan of about 7-8 quat capacity

 

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everyone Ive seen used a port that allowed oil return to flow down through the timing chain cover,
simply because its simple and aids timing chain lube.
 
I did the front and back. External lines in the bellhousing are illegal.
 

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Yes splash zone. The block is restricted to the top. I had Mullins CNC this block and he does something to the lifter bores internally. I know he told me BAM was the only lifter to use. I hope it's not drowning in oil. I just couldn't convince myself dumping the oil on the cam was a good idea for a solid roller. This is getting a Jones 55mm tool steel.
 
Yes splash zone. The block is restricted to the top. I had Mullins CNC this block and he does something to the lifter bores internally. I know he told me BAM was the only lifter to use. I hope it's not drowning in oil. I just couldn't convince myself dumping the oil on the cam was a good idea for a solid roller. This is getting a Jones 55mm tool steel.
I run morels in my 505. Coincidentally I have a Mike Jones cam as well. He knows his stuff. I didn't restrict the top end quite as much as you. I wouldn't have any issues about diverting all oil away from the cam with those pressure fed BAM lifters. When I swap my lifters out this winter I will give BAM a try. Can't complain about the Morels though. They have taken a beating on the street. I really need to freshen them up though. I'm probably on borrowed time on the rollers. Are you going to try to do anything with the bottom? Heck I guess you could simulate running with the pan off and run full pressure and see how much oil is bypassing the bores and rollers and see what is getting on the shafts.
 
I got the valley how I wanted it and sealed the epoxy with Glyptal. Much better for what I'm doing vs the oil falling on the cam/crank.
 

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Front
 

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