Extended wheelbase T bucket

[Mark Bradley]

A VE table is what the EFI uses to project how much air is being pumped through the motor at a given RPM and MAP.
If the VE is excessively incorrect for your motor it will not deliver the correct volume of fuel.
They all supply generic VE tables and then the software has ranges of adjustment it can make to provide the correct (requested) AFR.

 

[JohnHancock]

Does it have to be on a dyno for that?

 

[Mark Bradley]

No. I’m not saying a dyno is of no value but driving it and learning to log will get you 80+% there.
The FiTech has logging and it has helped me greatly.

 

[JohnHancock]

Thanks. I need to get the car going before I need to worry about EFI. At my speed they will have time to perfect the system. Lol

 

[Unforgiven]

The EFI is all new to me also. I am learning as I go along.
Mark seems to have a good handle on what is going on with that type of fuel system.

 

[busterrm]

I do have a slow travel speeds to fill gaps (not a real good fitter).

The above might explain why. I'm guessing you are trying to do all of this in 1 pass.
I do this too (but it's wrong). 2 passes is the better way. What is happening is that as
you join the 2 pieces together, you are thinking to yourself that this bead is too small for
a finished bead, so you stay there and add more filler wire. The bead instantly cools
because there is now more metal there, but your arc has not changed. So you give it more
pedal to keep the molten puddle going. But now there is too much heat, and the puddle
sinks into the joint. And you might even add more filler rod to correct for that. So what
you end up doing is trying to run 1 giant bead in 1 pass. Again, I do this too (but it's wrong).
Run a small bead to just join your pipes, then do a 2nd, or even 3rd pass.

Its called buttering a joint, work from thicker of the two metals to the thinner. Move faster to keep the metal cooler. It would help if you could purge with the gas, it would prevent what is called sugaring on the inside. Also, when your building from one to another, try warming the metal your building to, it will attract the weld metal’s puddle when you get close!

 

[busterrm]

Loves 302 I’ll try multiple passes. I’m going to order the grinder Bryan found. Thanks Bryan. Doing research I found something else I’m doing wrong. When I contaminate my tungsten I don’t cut the trash off I grind it down. Now I have contaminated my grinder! Now when I resharpen I have contaminated my tungsten! With all the help from you guys I may get to be a welder yet! Thanks guys!

John, try welding slightly uphill, it will make the puddle lag a little and your row of dimes will look better! Will look better when painted over it!

 

[JohnHancock]

I’m trying to practice up hill beads. I tend to weld hot and keep sticking my tungsten in the puddle! Getting better but have a way to go. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[JohnHancock]

Haven’t done much lately. Noticed I haven’t put a picture of my rack mount so here it is.

 

[Indycars]

Is the mount something you made or modified?

How is the heater working?

 

[busterrm]

I’m trying to practice up hill beads. I tend to weld hot and keep sticking my tungsten in the puddle! Getting better but have a way to go. Thanks for the suggestion.

When your moving your puddle, move from side to side quickly, hesitating on each side for penetration, add your filler then, then move to the other side add filler and so on! It might help to turn your amps down maybe 5 or so!

 

[JohnHancock]

Thanks. I’ll try that.

 

[JohnHancock]

Rick. I thought I responded but I guess I didn’t post it! Lol The heater is working fine. I also have a kerosene heater I put close to me when it’s really cold. The rack mount is all out of my foggy little brain.

 

[Indycars]

The rack mount is all out of my foggy little brain.

You gotta give yourself more credit !

 

[JohnHancock]

I have been neglecting this thread and I’m sorry. I have been plugging away and I mocked up what I have been doing. I’ll try to do better.