Gen 1sbc

Hi, when I (my husband) put a timing chain set in, the crank mark is a 12 o clock and the cam mark is at 12 o clock, with the valves are closed. The key is straight up, we put the balancer on and it showed 43 degrees at the pointer. Shouldn’t it be at zero, on the pointer? What did we do wrong? Thanks
 




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#1 on compression will be with both the crank dot and the cam dot @ 12 o-clock. With the crank dot @ 6 o-clock cyls. #6 IS AT TDC
MOST PEOPLE MATCH THE DOTS ON THE CRANK AND CAM GEARS WITH THE CAM GEAR AT 6 O'CLOCK AND THE CRANK GEAR AT 12 O'CLOCK, THIS PLACES THE CRANK KEYWAY AT ABOUT 2 O'CLOCK UNTIL YOU ROTATE THE CRANK TO GET THE CAM GEAR AT 12 O'CLOCK SO YOU CAN DROP IN THE DISTRIBUTOR
NOTICE THE CRANK KEY IS AT ABOUT 2 O'CLOCK AND THE TWO GEARS SHOW THE MARKS ADJACENT
WITH THE CAM GEAR AT 6 O'CLOCK AND THE CRANK GEAR AT 12 O'CLOCK, MANY CAM GEARS HAVE 3 -6 POSSIBLE CRANK KEY SLOTS
YOU MUST MATCH THE CORRECT CRANK KEY TO THE ZERO ADVANCE OR RETARD LOCATION
THIS IS DONE TO MAKE IT EASY TO MAKE THE DOTS MATCH, AS THEY ARE CLOSE, BUT ONCE INSTALLED THAT WAY THE CRANK MUST BE ROTATED 360 DEGREES BRING THE CAM DOT TO THE 12 O'CLOCK LOCATION WITH THE CRANK GEAR BACK AT 12 O'CLOCK BEFORE TOU INSTALL THE DISTRIBUTOR


NOTICE THERES THREE OR MORE CRANK KEY WAY SLOTS IN THE CRANK GEAR, ONLY ONE WILL RESULT IN TRUE tdc IF PROPERLY INSTALLED
THE OTHER CRANK KEY WAY SLOTS WILL RESULT IN THE CAM BEING ADVANCED OR RETARDED AND YOU WOULD NO LONGER USE THE CRANK DOT, BUT USE THE MARK THAT THE NEW CRANK KEYWAY MATCHES, (always read instructions carefully)

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http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html
it helps if you have a decent degree wheel and crank hub socket


measure you crank snout diameter, with a michcometer and look at the block casting numbers to verify the engine your working on


THIS LINK TO A PICTURE, THIS PICTURE SHOULD HELP,
NOTICE THE CRANK GEAR HAS A SLOT (0) AND STAMPED (O)
IF THE STAMPED ZERO IS INSTALLED AT 12 0'CLOCK THE CRANK KEYWAY MARKED WITH A ZERO WILL BE AT ABOUT 2 O'CLOCK


READING THESE THREADS SHOULD HELP
 
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Thanks, this is what we did, brought the engine with the timing cover off, cam gear mark at 12, and the crank gear at 12 o clock with the dist. In place,valves closed.Took the dist. Key was at 12 also, took off the damper, didn’t looker at damper pointer position. Put the new parts in at 12and 12 key at 12 also. Put dist. In pointing at number 1 cylinder. Then put damper on and noticed the 42 deg btdc. Where should the crank key be?
 
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you don't need a quick answer you need to understand whats going on and why its going on,
and get a degree wheel and use it to verify top dead center (TDC)
I'm not trying to be a P.I.T.A., Id give the same answers to anyone posting a similar question,
I'm trying to get you, and anyone else reading this in the future, to see how and why things are done correctly
watch the provided videos and learn how the process is done and why its done
without knowing WHERE TDC is the marks on the crank or cam gear are potentially useless they could be wrong, you could have the wrong timing set for the year and engine you have!
once you verify TDC you have a starting point!
yes I understand you would rather avoid buying a degree wheel, (preferably a 14" or larger one) and matching crank hub socket to mount it, and going through the process and just want a quick answer, the issue is that if that TDC is not correct and your not 100% sure its correct every other measurement's just guessing.
always deal in facts, guessing gets very expensive eventually, because you'll eventually guess WRONG
 
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Hi, I didn’t take a picture of how the trany cooling lines connect to the radiator when we sent to get it recored.Does it matter where the rubber lines connect on the radiator? Thanks
 
what transmission, what year corvette, yes it matters as one is the pressure feed and ones the return line
hot trans fluids designed to flow in one direction, if you post a few photos about where your trying to connect which lines I'll try to look up
the required info as it varied between some years
more details and a few photos would be really helpful
most trans coolant lines are steel or copper/nickel, what rubber lines are you referring too?
if its the coolant lines to the cars water pump & heater thats a different issue
as might be VACUUM LINES to the engine or transmission

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this is a good example of a reason to purchase the correct matching year shop manual when you buy any corvette
 
you are referring to the two transmission fluid lines ?


























 
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I wish I could be more help, but I'd need more details.
(and posting clear photos with questions, certainly helps)
 
My husband has a set of rebored t.b.i.s for my 82 crossfire vette, but he is not sure on how to plumb the gas lines to them and if any thing else must be done to use them. Thanks
 
 
According to my husband they are rebored to 2.15 inches in diameter. He thinks they must have parallel fuel lines not the cross over from the front one to the back. He is also not sure if they need more fuel pressure than the o.e. and how to do that.
 
they ( 1984-corvette,throttle body fuel injection ) are designed to run on about 14 psi-18 psi fuel pressure, you can verify with a fuel pressure gauge,and replacing the fuel filter.
the 1985-1996 use a different fuel pump that provides 38-43 psi, but te fuel pressure reg has a huge effect on the fuel pressure you see at the tb inlet
since the cars 40 years old it may need a new fuel pump, fuel filter, and maybe a fuel pressure regulator, but don't start swapping parts without testing the existing fuel pressure
 
Right now the fuel pressure with the o.e. tbi’s is just under 12 psi for our 82, it has a 85 fuel pump in it now. If the fuel pressure with goes up do we need to put new diafram’s in each t.b.i, like the metal ones “x fire” sells?
 
I doubt it, what issues if any are you having with the cars tuning?
 
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