Hello,
Well at last I am getting my reworked heads back.
I took them to my machine shop to have treaded rocker studs put in.
Then after all was done I was told a $2/300.00 (my belief) was now nearly $700.00…I asked why?
I was told because to remove the pressed in studs they have to really heat the heads up to remove them without cracking the heads, then drill and tap the holes and them put in the new studs.
And because of the slight warping from the heating to redo a full three angle valve job using a newer and better valve machine.
And at the same time for the same reason to mill a couple of thousands to insure the heads are flat and true.
Well I am told they honed the valve guilds, polished them and the valve stems and they are Good and Tight and good to go.
And they replaced my Perfect Circle Valve seals with the same type by Felpro.
They are composite type clamp on the machined valve guilds, NOT the 100% failing umbrella or ring seals that EVERY Chevy 350 I have owned has had the them fail.
AND I hope this did not damage the cermitic coating on the heads and valves.
I was just told there was some coating cleaned off around/ under the valve heads and valve seal…will not know how much until I pick them up later today.
Does all of this sound reasonable??
I already lost my gapless second rings when their tear down man ripped all the rings off the pistons rather than removed them, so having then correct my goof on the bearings clearance added extra costs and loses to that job.
And they did not contact me about the gapless rings nor as I understand it, did NOT replace them but just used a standard new complete set of rings.
I did get all the rings back and they were all bent out of shape or oversized out of round, so I know HOW they got them off.
They said I had one cracked/broken ring and it was a good thing they did the rings….They said one bore had a slight scratch in it….I could not find it when I got the block home…
Does all of this sound reasonable??
So I am now going to be installing the heads, so I would like to do a check up on how to do them.
So I am using copper gaskets, so will spray each gasket with the Copper sealing, and then place it on the block and then drop the head on top of it, and then use block thread sealer on the new head bolts…
Now I was told back in the day to run the bolts down snug in the tightening pattern, then torque all to 50% of full torque in the tightening pattern, then at 75% of the tightening pattern, and then at 100% full torque of the tightening pattern.
Then do all of that with the other head.
I was once told to loosen and retorque a day later, or just to retorque again without backing then off any.
Or just do no retorquing at all??
Rich
Well at last I am getting my reworked heads back.
I took them to my machine shop to have treaded rocker studs put in.
Then after all was done I was told a $2/300.00 (my belief) was now nearly $700.00…I asked why?
I was told because to remove the pressed in studs they have to really heat the heads up to remove them without cracking the heads, then drill and tap the holes and them put in the new studs.
And because of the slight warping from the heating to redo a full three angle valve job using a newer and better valve machine.
And at the same time for the same reason to mill a couple of thousands to insure the heads are flat and true.
Well I am told they honed the valve guilds, polished them and the valve stems and they are Good and Tight and good to go.
And they replaced my Perfect Circle Valve seals with the same type by Felpro.
They are composite type clamp on the machined valve guilds, NOT the 100% failing umbrella or ring seals that EVERY Chevy 350 I have owned has had the them fail.
AND I hope this did not damage the cermitic coating on the heads and valves.
I was just told there was some coating cleaned off around/ under the valve heads and valve seal…will not know how much until I pick them up later today.
Does all of this sound reasonable??
I already lost my gapless second rings when their tear down man ripped all the rings off the pistons rather than removed them, so having then correct my goof on the bearings clearance added extra costs and loses to that job.
And they did not contact me about the gapless rings nor as I understand it, did NOT replace them but just used a standard new complete set of rings.
I did get all the rings back and they were all bent out of shape or oversized out of round, so I know HOW they got them off.
They said I had one cracked/broken ring and it was a good thing they did the rings….They said one bore had a slight scratch in it….I could not find it when I got the block home…
Does all of this sound reasonable??
So I am now going to be installing the heads, so I would like to do a check up on how to do them.
So I am using copper gaskets, so will spray each gasket with the Copper sealing, and then place it on the block and then drop the head on top of it, and then use block thread sealer on the new head bolts…
Now I was told back in the day to run the bolts down snug in the tightening pattern, then torque all to 50% of full torque in the tightening pattern, then at 75% of the tightening pattern, and then at 100% full torque of the tightening pattern.
Then do all of that with the other head.
I was once told to loosen and retorque a day later, or just to retorque again without backing then off any.
Or just do no retorquing at all??
Rich
