head gasket related

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member
headgasket.jpg

head gaskets fail for a number of reasons,
improper installation procedures,
corrosion, due to old coolant
over heating, due to low coolant,
a bad water pump or restricted t-stat or radiator
detonation, due to bad gas or improper ignition timing,
improper tuning of the fuel/air ratio etc.

in most cases if caught early, simply cleaning of the head and block and replacing the head gasket with the proper procedure after locating and correcting the cause of the head gasket failure will be all that's required,
if how ever you constantly try to run an engine with a defective head gasket you'll damage the block or heads in a short time, thru several reasons.
some common indicators of a blown head gasket, are white smoke from the exhaust (usually with a sweet smell)
loss of coolant with no obvious leaks, over heating of the engine, the engine runs rough and a inspection of the spark plugs and a compression test will usually show the defective cylinders, due to the condition of the spark plugs or the lower cylinder pressure readings, when you do a compression test on all cylinders

ideally a head gaskets bore will match or be slightly larger than the cylinder, a smaller bore gasket tends to over lap the combustion chamber edge and cause a hot spot that tends to aggravate detonation problems.
your SHOP MANUAL will give you both the correct gasket and the procedure and torque readings and tightening sequence of the head bolts.
obviously the condition of the block and head surfaces to be sealed and the clamping sequence and torque values use on the head bolts and any sealant used will vary but must match the application,(SHOP MANUALS, and HEAD GASKET MANUFACTURERS INSTRUCTIONS ARE A BIG HELP)
bolthread.png

http://www.goodvibesracing.com/SBC_Head_Gaskets.htm
copperspray1.jpg

when installing almost any head gasket, but especially with a copper head gasket be sure to put on two wet even coats on both sides of the head gasket and install and torque while the copper coat sprays still damp ,the spray fills in micro flaws in the machined surface
coppersandwich1.jpg

Keep in mind there are solid copper head gaskets , Ive used for decades that you simply spray with copper coat and install damp and torque in place, and the TITAN style with a steel fire ring, sandwiched between to layers of copper, Ive never used the titan style but have used the solid copper gaskets extensively with good results, in both cases the head gasket must be slightly recessed between the head and block ,not sticking out into the edge of the combustion chamber



READ THE INFO IN THE LINKS THERES A GREAT DEAL TO BE LEARNED

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sbc-head-gasket-choice.11070/#post-79067

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/head-gasket.10085/#post-39429

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ad-gasket-for-aluminum-heads.4403/#post-26317

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...asket-bore-size-vs-bore-size.2681/#post-11603





viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1222

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=827&p=4572&hilit=copper#p4572

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article ... skets.aspx

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2005/ic010532.htm

http://www.import-car.com/Article/61817 ... _fail.aspx

http://www.aa1car.com/library/gasket_failure.htm

http://www.aa1car.com/library/ic697.htm

http://www.cswnet.com/~carother/compression_ratio.htm

http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm

http://racingarticles.com/article_racing-10.html

http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/jan97/gasket.htm

http://www.ehow.com/how_2316551_repair- ... asket.html


if you don,t have a particular engines torque sequence its a safe bet that you start with the center head bolts and tighten each , in stages in a spiral outward pattern, then repeat the sequence with each increased torque setting movng in that same spiral increasing diam spiral moving from the center to outer bolt locations.
copper1.jpg

copper2.jpg

the slight miss alignment on the coolant ports has no effect

sbchvy_head_seq.gif

SBC HEADS
head_bolt_gm_sequence_3x5.jpg

Big Chevy
Spiral%20Diagram%20GT.jpg
 
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heres a picture of a guys failed head gasket, he bought the engine off EBAY ,supposedly in good running condition,BOTH sides of the engine had failed head gaskets when he tore it down for inspection,ITS a fairly good bet that they both DIDN,T FAIL at the same instant
if he didn,t let the engine sit around for a week before pulling the heads , to inspect the problems source when he noticed the problem, the extent of rust in the combustion chamber indicates that was an EXISTING ISSUE and the resulting over heating probably cause the other side problem, btw those black textured head gaskets frequently fail in my experience.
I generally spend a good deal of time verifying the heads and block deck are flat & square & degreased and use spray copper coat on head gaskets(both sides and install them damp even if it says install dry, and I can,t recall EVER having a blown head gasket in the last 15 years
these don,t usually fail if installed correctly

http://www.scegaskets.com/Chevrolet/c259796/

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=6931&p=22695#p22695

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=10376

100_6522.jpg


if your finding a slime in the coolant passages of your aluminum intake on your engine, its likely the result of electrolysis

the cure requires three different changes, made to the coolant system,
the first is running a 50%/50% distilled water antifreeze mix with the newer antifreeze formulas
many guys clean the coolant passages in the manifolds and paint them with several coats of marine hull paint before installing them on a car also

the second is INSTALLING A COUPLE ANODES in the engine

the third is making sure the engines well grounded in two places to the BLOCK, not the intake, and to the cars frame and battery

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/anode.html

http://www.bmcno.org/RadCap.htm
alummancorr.jpg

coroasion2.jpg


coroasion.jpg


viewtopic.php?f=57&t=74&p=4123&hilit=anode#p4123
 
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HEY GRUMPYVETTE???

1. Do we need to keep the dowels on the block as we have studs now?

YES, they maintain correct alignment between head and cylinder centerline

2. Should we use a thread sealer of some sort when installing the studs?

YES on the lower course block threads on the studs
80063.jpg


3. Should we torque the studs or will the torque from the heads be enough?

be aware that head bolts enter the block coolant passages,
so if you failed to dip the bolt threads in sealant when they were assembled,
through the heads coolant can seep up along the head bolts,
into the area under the valve cover


NEVER TORQUE STUDS INTO THE BLOCK, they go in finger tight AFTER using a tap to clean the thread holes, and coating the threads with sealant

4. Do we need to install the studs after we put the heads on the block, using the aforementioned dowels?

you can, or you can slip the heads down over the studs

This is my first time using studs and first set of aluminum heads also. So are there any secrets that I should know?
Thanks guys,
viewtopic.php?f=51&t=10464&p=43788#p43788

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ket-theres-coolant-in-the-oil-now-what.15169/

USE THE CORRECT SEALANT on the lower course threads, clean out the block threaded holes with a tap, solvent and high pressure air

TORQUE THE HEAD IN STAGES, dip the studs in sealant and thread them in till the bottom out then back them out 1/2 turn

USE A HARDENED WASHER UNDER THE NUTS, before you coat the upper thread the nut goes on with lubricant, then torque in the correct patter in at least three stages, then go back loosen the studs and re-torque each twice more , this sets the stud stretch by cycling the stub stress up and down the recomemnded three cycles

arpthreadlube.jpg

this should be used only in head bolt holes that don,t enter water jackets in the block

enginerebuild111.JPG


READ THE LINKS

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=50&hilit=studs+sealant

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=700&p=1095&hilit=studs+sealant#p1095

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=328&p=403&hilit=studs+sealant#p403

viewtopic.php?f=50&t=1222

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=15&p=21&hilit=studs+sealant#p21

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=10376&p=42831#p42831

viewtopic.php?f=52&t=4403&p=12554&hilit=head+gaskets#p12554
 
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I broke a headgasket. I think your above mentioned timing, dual quality and a healthy dose of BOOST led to its not holding pressure any more.

The mating surfaces need to be very clean.
I put studs in the side I did.
I like this stuff for sealing fasteners that go into the water jacket.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...gnosing-and-replacing-bad-head-gaskets.15126/

I am never up for don't fix it if it ain't broke so I didn't pull the other side. Seems not to be a problem as the new one seems to be sealing well. Engine back to generating pah and punishing tires.
 
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Hey Grumpy , Its good to see that you are upgrading your site. But it seems that ALL of the links that you suggest that we rear " don't work". They used to work fine but ever since you redid this site , The old links lead to No Where..............
 
try logging in on BOTH the old site as well as the new site versions ,
(the log in and pass word will generally be the same)
,when you find a link that seems to lead to a dead end
 
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I'm replacing my head gaskets due to them being blown. I have a few questions I hope someone can help me with.
1. Which head gaskets are the best for a 1989 with stock L98 engine and aluminum heads?
2. Which intake gaskets do you recommend?
3. Besides the knock sensor, are there any other places on the block that can be opened up to drain all the coolant out?
4. What tool/size do I use to get that knock sensor out?

Thank you in advance!
IF YOUR SIMPLY TRYING TO GET A STOCK TPI CORVETTE ENGINE BACK IN SERVICE AS CHEAPLY AS YOU CAN?
the heads and block surfaces must be very carefully examined for damage or warping issues and if found those issues must be corrected, before any new head gaskets installed, over time steam can and will cut grooves in even cast iron blocks and rather easily in softer aluminum. no head gasket will seal a badly machined or warped head or block

btw if youve managed to blow a head gasket on a 1986-91 TPI corvette with aluminum heads
the heads and block surfaces must be very carefully examined for damage or warping issues and if found those issues must be corrected, before any new head gaskets installed, over time steam can and will cut grooves in even cast iron blocks and rather easily in softer aluminum.

keep in mind coolant must have the anti-freeze ratio set at 50%water 50% antifreeze and be replaced at least every 4 years MAX to retain its anti corrosive additives
fel-hs7733pt9_xl.jpg
fel-hs7733pt9_xl.jpg

the stock 1986-91 tpi head gasket FELPRO HS7733pt9



http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performanc...5&cadevice=c&gclid=CPuviOyQ1sUCFdOQHwod3SgAiQ
Ive used it for decades and it works, simply clean both the head and block with a clean acetone soaked lint free rag, spray both sides of the head gasket until damp, install with the head and torque to proper tension
btw if youve managed to blow a head gasket on a 1986-91 TPI corvette with aluminum heads
the heads and block surfaces must be very carefully examined for damage or warping issues and if found those issues must be corrected, before any new head gaskets installed, over time steam can and will cut grooves in even cast iron blocks and rather easily in softer aluminum.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...oving-gaskets-the-wrong-way.10464/#post-43962

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/head-gasket-related.1859/#post-50617

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/which-sealant-goes-where.700/#post-43768

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sbc-head-gasket-choice.11070/#post-49297
http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/torque-specs-calculator-links-etc.1222/

copperspray1.jpg

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/head-gasket-related.1859/#post-50617

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...oving-gaskets-the-wrong-way.10464/#post-43962

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/head-gasket.10085/#post-39429

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/can-you-plan-for-quench.11298/

yes I know several types of head gaskets say install dry ... use of the copper spray has never once caused a problem
head gasket


FelPro 1205 intake

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1205


COPPER COAT
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sce-g1612
copperspray1.jpg

clean heads and block then degrease with acetone, spray both sides of head gasket well twice, install under heads while still a bit tacky and torque to specs

sbchvy_head_seq.gif



http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/torque-specs-calculator-links-etc.1222/

youll occasionally find uses for a high temp rated silicone sealant
like ultra-copper that has about twice the temp tolerance of the common black RTV

In my experience, the black rtv works ok,
but the high heat gray or copper gasket sealant has always worked a bit better
gasketse2.jpg

I prefer this for most of the jobs where silicone type gasket sealants get used like intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets

gasketse1.jpg

gasketse1.png

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sealants-and-threads.805/#post-71928
ultracop.jpg



head gaskets are rarely completely round, nore are combustion chambers
you,ll want to place a head gasket you,ll use on the heads and mark the area inside the opening as the only areas you can change,
(notice the gasket fire ring is NOT a perfect circle like many people assume)
ideally you,ll want to un-shroud the valves while opening up the combustion chamber volume, but not extend the combustion chamber past the front edge of the gasket fire ring as that usually causes gasket failure

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/ccing-my-heads.14187/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/iron-vs-aluminum-heads.389/#post-31684

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...r-piston-dome-or-port-volume.2077/#post-60554

gasketsh.png


BlackoutSteve posted these pictures
What cylinder head?
With my 4.280" bore and AFR head, I am forced to use a 4.540" bore gasket because the chambers are wide and would otherwise allow the gasket to "hang" in the chamber.

For example..
428gaga.jpg

454gaga.jpg


laying a head gasket on the head and use machinist blue dye to show the areas inside the gasket fire-ring
8c3cd11a-b277-4018-b98a-b5648e0314be_1.74e42cf0e55dcba325d8cd403b5783b9.jpeg

http://www.skygeek.com/dymon-8000-s...MI8vPS24jm1gIVBolpCh2pnAoWEAQYAiABEgL2ZPD_BwE

thus the first logical step would be to carefully place a identical head gasket to what you'll use on the engine , properly lined up on the cylinder head and accurately scribe its inside dimensional limits on the cylinder head, a metal scribe , a dremel tool and machinist blue would be helpful here
keep in mind its one of several factors working together, things like getting the quench correct, polishing and un-shrouding the combustion chamber, getting the ignition advance curve and fuel/air ratio correctly matched and taking the time to polish the piston, dome, removing sharp edges from valve clearance notches , and polishing and very slightly rounding sharp edges on the valves, use of the correct spark plug heat range, removing exposed threads in the combustion chamber after you test by inserting a correct spark plug, certainly helps reduce any potential hot spots.
macbl.jpg



headgasjk.png

http://www.federalmogulmp.com/en-US/Technical/Documents/Head Gasket Installation.pdf
flowcon.png

http://www.felpro-only.com/blog/side/


WHICH SIDE IS UP?

The Fel-Pro Break Room Forum has had several postings recently regarding which direction a gasket should face when installed. Some gaskets are asymmetric and the correct orientation can be visually distinguished. Sometimes gaskets for the same engine might appear very similar, but will not function properly if installed in the wrong direction. It is important to install these gaskets in the correct orientation.



Then you will find other gaskets can be installed with either side facing up and the gasket will seal either way.



So how do you know which way a Fel-Pro gasket is supposed to face when it’s being installed? Fortunately, in the case of head gaskets and intake manifold gaskets, Fel-Pro gaskets have directional markings to help install them correctly when the gasket’s orientation is critical to the repair.



Before we take a look at the different markings you’ll find on Fel-Pro gaskets, let’s talk about what we mean when we say front, left, right, top, and up. Front, left, right, top and up – why so many? Different nameplates use different nomenclature in their OE service manuals for directional markings. For consistency in leveraging repair information, Fel-Pro works to follow the nameplate reference.



Front:
What is the front of the engine? This can be confusing, especially when dealing with a transversely mounted engine (which most front-wheel-drive vehicles have). The answer is quite simple though – the front of the engine is the end where the drive belts are located.



front.png




Left and Right:Left and right are determined from the driver’s perspective. That’s the industry standard. If you were to install your gaskets on the left and right side based on looking at the engine from the front of the vehicle, the gaskets would be incorrectly installed.



left_right.png




Top / This Side Up:“Top” or “This Side Up” means that’s the side of the gasket that should be facing you once it’s installed.



top_this-side-up.png




Up:This stamp is found on Fel-Pro head gaskets for Subaru engines (which have horizontally opposed cylinders). The edge of the gasket with the “Up” stamp must be kept up toward the top of the engine block.



Up.png




Non-Directional Gaskets:
In some cases, head gaskets or intake gaskets won’t have any directional indicators on them. They may have Blue Stripe® coating, or be a different color. In these cases, it does not matter which direction the gasket is installed. If it were crucial it would be marked.




doesnt-matter.png




For example, the Small Block Chevy and the GM 3.4L V6 head gaskets (pictured above) can be installed with the Blue Stripe coating facing the cylinder heads or the engine block. There are no directional markings on the gaskets.



Water Outlet and Thermostat Gaskets:Water outlet/thermostat gaskets can be installed with the striping facing either direction as well, again as long as there no directional indicators. If there are bypass holes (as seen in the image below), the gasket must be installed in the correct orientation to allow coolant flow.



water-outlet-1024x512.png




Exhaust Manifold Gaskets:Exhaust manifold gaskets are another gasket type we get questions on. When installing Fel-Pro exhaust manifold gaskets, if there is a smooth, metallic side and a composite side, the metallic side should be installed facing out, meaning toward the exhaust manifold. This smooth surface of the shiny side will allow the flange of the exhaust manifold to slide as it expands and contracts during heat cycling from engine operation.
the best solution from a performance perspective is to do the required calculations to select the longest length connecting rod and the lowest weight piston,
of a decent design that will reduce the reciprocating mass significantly more.
the tall deck has a 10.2" deck height, a good dual plane aluminum high rise intake manifold will tend to provide the best compromise if you use a low compression and mild cam duration,
while it might seem like a waste of time, now, reading the links and sub-links will provide a good base to work from, later and save you a great deal of wasted time and money

you have a choice, you can slap the components you own together, now and live with what you have built regardless of the results , or you can put some real thought into making the result perform and carefully select parts and significantly boost power... yes that routes more expensive up front, but in the long term it tends to get better results and cost LESS.
common BB CHEVY piston compression heights are
1.270"
1.395"
1.520"
1.645"
1.765"

remember the blocks deck height, minus the piston pin height minus 1/2 the crank stroke will equal the required connecting rod length
OR
the blocks deck height, minus the connecting rod length, minus 1/2 the crank stroke. will equal the required piston pin height

if you wonder why I suggest using SCAT (H) beam style cap screw connecting rods vs stock or most (I) beam designs this picture should show the increased cam to connecting rod clearance

After market performance ,big block connecting rods come in several common lengths
0704ch_15_z+chevy_big_blocka.jpg

0704ch_14_z+chevy_big_block+.jpg

notice the pin height in the pistons pictured above allow a longer or shorter connecting rod length

hrdp_0704_59_z+piston_tdc_diagram+.jpg

heres a selection of commonly available big block chevy connecting rod lengths

bbcdht.png


your going to want the longer length and 150%-200% stronger aftermarket connecting rods with the much stronger 7/16" ARP rod bolts if your building a tall deck BBC engine,
so if your trying to build the best combo, you should select the longest and strongest connecting rods that allows you to select an off the shelf compression height piston to save money,
keep in mind head gaskets come in head gaskets come in .010 steps from about .020-to-about .80 and blocks generally measure 10.223 if that O.E.M. block has not previously machined, try too get the quench in the .040-.044 range,
you can get the piston thats compression height is .010-.015, .020 , .025, below or above the deck height, and with a matched head gasket get the quench correct after measuring the deck height, and compression height.


496cmph1.png

496cmph2.png



Diamond_12711_nitrousdome__25621.1432240797.png

I recently helped one of the local guys assemble a 496 BBC 4.25" stroke
engine using 6.385: SCAT rods with 12.7:1 pistons thats being built
I watched him start to install the first piston with the dome facing the lifter gallery, or upper side of the cylinder... I waited until he had started to install the connecting rod cap on that first rod and asked him to rotate the crank to TDC I handed him a bridge and a dial indicator
66962.jpg

66797.jpg

and asked him to verify the deck height.....honestly I had a real hard time not laughing.....I think most of us realize that we all made similar mistakes.... no harm done (YET).
after a few seconds, I suggested he check the spark plug clearance with the head just laid on the block with an old head gasket...yeah, he caught the mistake then!

enginerebuild128.JPG


https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car...w-to-assemble-an-engine-part-2-the-bottom-end

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ed-holes-in-bearings-shells.10750/#post-53298

https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car...w-to-assemble-an-engine-part-2-the-bottom-end

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...d-side-clearance-dont-assume.4690/#post-12702

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...nk-durring-short-blk-assembly.852/#post-39417

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0901phr-less-expensive-big-block-chevy-engine/

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/measuring-rod-and-pin-heights.3760/#post-9968

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/deck-height-problems.3048/#post-8048

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/quench-squish.726/#post-1023

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/sealants-and-threads.805/#post-71928

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/head-gasket-related.1859/#post-50617

https://www.uempistons.com/index.ph...e=deck&zenid=823ce2c9e2ffa691864d832c10107df0

https://www.uempistons.com/index.php?main_page=calculators&zenid=823ce2c9e2ffa691864d832c10107df0



http://www.rxauto.com/demo.htm





https://www.engineprofessional.com/EPQ3-2020/mobile/index.html#p=17


http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...ad-gasket-for-aluminum-heads.4403/#post-38976

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...eventing-leaky-head-bolts-studs.50/#post-1253

http://garage.grumpysperformance.co...oving-gaskets-the-wrong-way.10464/#post-43788
 
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