how to wire a shop.
- Thread starter grumpyvette
- Start date
I recently had one of the breakers (40 amp)
in my shops electrical panel, go bad, internally,so I pulled the main shop breaker and then replaced the smaller breaker after verifying the circuit was dead with my multi meter,
Im not sure whats was wrong but it would pop, even with zero load, when set,
cars use DC homes use AC current ,know the difference and use the correct meters
http://www.amprobe.com/Amprobe/usen/Contests_Promotions/amp-25.htm?gclid=CJGbirzF59ACFUU2gQodJ6UIqA
http://www.powerstream.com/DC-clamp.htm
https://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-AMP-...1481301013&sr=8-9&keywords=fluke+dc+amp+meter
http://en-us.fluke.com/training/tra...-digital-multimeter-plus-clamp-accessory.html
I was rather concerned at first assuming it was being over loaded with a short circuit but after I replaced it with a new identical one the problem stopped and my amp meter showed it was popping even with a 15 amp load
the only issue I had was a standard screw driver did not allow me too apply enough torque too loosen the screw that clamps the 10 ga copper wire firmly on the breaker,
it darn sure was never over tightened to that extent, I had to grab a special tool
https://www.craftsman.com/products/craftsman-mach-series-14-piece-3-8-t-handle-driver-and-bit-set
with a 1/4" drive socket and a 4" slotted screw driver bit, which easily allowed me to loosen the clamp screw and replace the breaker.
in my shops electrical panel, go bad, internally,so I pulled the main shop breaker and then replaced the smaller breaker after verifying the circuit was dead with my multi meter,
Im not sure whats was wrong but it would pop, even with zero load, when set,
cars use DC homes use AC current ,know the difference and use the correct meters
http://www.amprobe.com/Amprobe/usen/Contests_Promotions/amp-25.htm?gclid=CJGbirzF59ACFUU2gQodJ6UIqA
http://www.powerstream.com/DC-clamp.htm
https://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-AMP-...1481301013&sr=8-9&keywords=fluke+dc+amp+meter
http://en-us.fluke.com/training/tra...-digital-multimeter-plus-clamp-accessory.html
I was rather concerned at first assuming it was being over loaded with a short circuit but after I replaced it with a new identical one the problem stopped and my amp meter showed it was popping even with a 15 amp load
the only issue I had was a standard screw driver did not allow me too apply enough torque too loosen the screw that clamps the 10 ga copper wire firmly on the breaker,
it darn sure was never over tightened to that extent, I had to grab a special tool
https://www.craftsman.com/products/craftsman-mach-series-14-piece-3-8-t-handle-driver-and-bit-set
with a 1/4" drive socket and a 4" slotted screw driver bit, which easily allowed me to loosen the clamp screw and replace the breaker.
Last edited:
youll want to check local building codes and ,maybe draw a permit
for a 220 volt plazma cutter youll need a separate and unique circuit, to feed the plazma cutter ,
many plazma cutter require a 50 amp feed and that will MANDATE a 6 GA copper three wire feed, obviously read the installation requirements, don,t get cheap or stupid use the correct wire ga and breaker and run a new outlet
youll also need the air compressor to run at the same time in many cases.
I would run a 3/4" or 1" diam steel conduit from the outlet location to the breaker box and use a 3 conductor 6 gauge copper wire,
if your not familiar with, and comfortable doing electrical work hire a local electrician.
considering the potential danger if the wiring not correct its money well spent, even if its expensive
youll need a 50 amp duel breaker that fits your electrical box
youll need room in your electrical box for that breaker
youll need to run an un-broken 3/4" or 1" steel conduit to the outlet location
connectors and clamps and tapcon screws
youll need the 3 conductor 6 ga copper wire the right length
youll need the outlet and 4" electrical outlet box and face plate and outlet
youll need a mounting cord
https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-11-16...k-Cover-for-30-60A-Round-Device-888/202097240
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-x-10-ft-Electric-Metallic-Tube-EMT-Conduit-101568/100400409
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1-in-Electric-Metallic-Tube-EMT-Set-Screw-Coupling-62810/202241090
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-1...tallic-Tube-EMT-Straps-4-Pack-26153/100124691
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...w-Single-Outlet-Black-R10-00279-S00/300324414
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwi...x-SIMpull-CU-NM-B-W-G-Wire-28894422/205357757
obviously it helps a great deal if you have the instruction and installation specs, and the correct matching electrical plug cord
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I spent several hours helping a buddy wire a 220 volt outlet in his shop for a new
mig welder that required a 30 amp rated outlet.
The Miller brochure says the Millermatic 180 requires 230v, 60Hz, 21.7 Amp circuit.
he told me what he was quoted and I told him it was outrageous,,,
and we could do the job in under 3 hours...
and that included the acquisition of parts and installation,
once I showed him exactly what was required, and we purchased the parts/components,
from home depot,
and went back to his shop and installed the wiring and outlet
his comment..
"Once you explained,
what was required,
several lengths of 3/4" conduit, and sweeps,
in a bit more than a hundred feet of 8 ga wire, the outlet, outlet boxes, conduit clamps,
conduit couplers and electrical breakers and a few other parts ,
and I saw you and helped you install the wiring in the conduit,
and installed the boxes, wired the outlet...
I have to wonder what I was confused and concerned about and how in hell,
any electrician can quote the prices they did.
we spent less than two hours and $185 dollars to do a job that I was quoted, too cost $960" and was told would take a day to complete."
mig welder that required a 30 amp rated outlet.
The Miller brochure says the Millermatic 180 requires 230v, 60Hz, 21.7 Amp circuit.
he told me what he was quoted and I told him it was outrageous,,,
and we could do the job in under 3 hours...
and that included the acquisition of parts and installation,
once I showed him exactly what was required, and we purchased the parts/components,
from home depot,
and went back to his shop and installed the wiring and outlet
his comment..
"Once you explained,
what was required,several lengths of 3/4" conduit, and sweeps,
in a bit more than a hundred feet of 8 ga wire, the outlet, outlet boxes, conduit clamps,
conduit couplers and electrical breakers and a few other parts ,
and I saw you and helped you install the wiring in the conduit,
and installed the boxes, wired the outlet...
I have to wonder what I was confused and concerned about and how in hell,
any electrician can quote the prices they did.
we spent less than two hours and $185 dollars to do a job that I was quoted, too cost $960"
and was told would take a day to complete."
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I did when I built my personal shop and wired it...
the county electrical inspector commented
" that he had never in 30 years ever seen anyone else
do as nice a job or use so heavy gauge wire on a non-commercial garage"
he was amazed everything was in conduit, and every outlet run,
and connection has a separate breaker,
and all 8 dual GFI outlets were separate runs with only a pair of electrical outlets
and even the 110 and 220 volt outlets had individual ground connections/
but no! most people don,t bother... but its damn sure been done to EXCEED county electrical code requirements
nothing was run with less than 10 ga copper and all the 220 volt outlets were 8 ga copper
the last thing I wanted is electrical issues or potential fires
but thats just a serious engineering background and knowing that doing it right up front,
is far better than dealing with a less than ideal set-up later on,
when I took bids on wiring my shop I got quotes of $12K-$13K to do things the way I wanted....
and the electrical contractors tried to tell me I did not need everything in conduit nor did I need separate individual runs
or all 10 or 8 ga copper wire.
the component parts cost me only $4500 and it only took me and a couple of buddies 3 days
that included electrical outlets, lighting and ceiling fans and an alarm system and telephone system with intercom
the county electrical inspector commented
" that he had never in 30 years ever seen anyone else
do as nice a job or use so heavy gauge wire on a non-commercial garage"
he was amazed everything was in conduit, and every outlet run,
and connection has a separate breaker,
and all 8 dual GFI outlets were separate runs with only a pair of electrical outlets
and even the 110 and 220 volt outlets had individual ground connections/
but no! most people don,t bother... but its damn sure been done to EXCEED county electrical code requirements
nothing was run with less than 10 ga copper and all the 220 volt outlets were 8 ga copper
the last thing I wanted is electrical issues or potential fires
but thats just a serious engineering background and knowing that doing it right up front,
is far better than dealing with a less than ideal set-up later on,
when I took bids on wiring my shop I got quotes of $12K-$13K to do things the way I wanted....
and the electrical contractors
tried to tell me I did not need everything in conduit nor did I need separate individual runs or all 10 or 8 ga copper wire.the component parts cost me only $4500 and it only took me and a couple of buddies 3 days
that included electrical outlets, lighting and ceiling fans and an alarm system and telephone system with intercom
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T-Test
solid fixture here in the forum
You said IF you ever sold your house. NO responsibility. Still living there means you have to have confidence in your own work. And you do !!
The house is not burning !!
