Installing valve seals

ranman

Active Member
I've got an '88 S10 with a 4.3 it's a vin z.
I'm looking for info on installing the seals. I used nylon rope to hold the valves in place once when replacing a sheared set of keepers, and I have a compressor, so that much, I don't need to know.
My questions are about installing them, which brand, which type.
I've rebuilt two 350's, spent 80 or 90 hours totally reshaping the ports on a new set of heads. I'm just saying this for perspective, certainly not much for bragging rights. I'm humbled by the expertise here.
I'm no pro, but not a novice.
I'm 65 and have never had anyone work on my vehicles with the acceptance of machine work on heads and the engine block.

I've asked a simple question on two other websites and with over 200 views, the top answer is replace the guides.
That's not happening, yet that same advice is repeated, never answering my question.
I don't disagree with that advice, but this is an S10 and I'd probably need to pull the engine to take the heads off and if I break a couple bolts, this is my only vehicle so I'm not taking the heads off. I only want advice about replacing the seals. If they only last for a few years, so what they're better than the bakelite that exists now under the rocker covers.
Okee dokee.......

The engine has 288000 miles. Compression is 150. Runs smooth as a top.

I just want to replace the valve seals..... and no more.

My basic question, and my questions on other sites was this:
I've never replaced valve seals before. Does anyone have links to some decent videos showing the procedure? (yes I know it's not rocket science, I've simply never done it)
Videos I've seen are sketchy, like first timers doing the procedure. I want a more professional video with advice I can trust. That or a good tutorial or article.

Being an '88 4.3 vin z, (non Vortec), I'm assuming it requires umbrella seals?
If it does use those, I've read to leave the umbrella seals off of the exhaust side.
Is that correct?
I'm assuming O-rings on the intake and exhaust, but umbrella on the intake only?

Do they make Viton O-ring and umbrella seals for vin z heads? ........or are Viton seals only available on heads machined for positive style seals?

For the umbrella seals, is there a special tool, or just a socket........
Lots of information on the internet to fill my brain, but I haven't seen a video or tutorial that answers my questions with any confidence.
Any of you guys have advice or links to a good video or tutorial that would fill in my blanks!and answer my questions?
 
Question is this on a super tight budget? Personally I would rather pull the heads and do the work along with relapping the valves while I have the head off. Maybe even give them to napa or a well known machine shop and have them overhaul them.
 
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as always dealing with any machine shop is a crap shoot,
as there's a very wide range in skill levels, experience and just "GIVES A SHIT" in attitudes, in all machine shops

but yes a decent machine shop will tend to give a better result, ask detailed questions on cost and time frames don't fall for the old...
"
"ABOUT A WEEK and maybe $250, depends on what they require"
as that all too frequently results in well we found a few extra parts needed replacing,
we had to order those... so it took 30-60 days and now the cost is $350-$700)

get a firm delivery date and price quote , your not looking for the least expensive shop , your looking for quality work done on a firm


schedule
 
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Question is this on a super tight budget? Personally I would rather pull the heads and do the work along with relapping the valves while I have the head off. Maybe even give them to napa or a well known machine shop and have them overhaul them.
Yup, it's just to slow down the puff of blue smoke and carbon on the pistons. The seals, if they still exist have certainly turned into Bakelite by now.
I know a head rebuild is ideal, but that's not going to happen.
I'm just curious if I need both the O-ring and the umbrella on the intake and exhaust.
....or if just the O-rings.
....or both O-rings and umbrella on the intake only.
Videos and advice goes every which way and I don't see any constancy. Most videos come across as "hold my beer, watch this"
That's why I asked here.
Thanks for the reply.
Also, is one brand of seal any better than another?
Is Viton better than rubber?
I know seals aren't going to last 100,000 miles with worn guides, something is preferable to nothing. The cost to me would be time as the seals aren't a deal breaker. I'm thinking new keepers wouldn't hurt with 280,000 miles on them.
Not sure the mileage is correct.
The truck is '93, the engine '88
 
as always dealing with any machine shop is a crap shoot,
as there's a very wide range in skill levels, experience and just "GIVES A SHIT" in attitudes, in all machine shops

but yes a decent machine shop will tend to give a better result, ask detailed questions on cost and time frames don't fall for the old...
"
"ABOUT A WEEK and maybe $250, depends on what they require"
as that all too frequently results in well we found a few extra parts needed replacing,
we had to order those... so it took 30-60 days and now the cost is $350-$700)

get a firm delivery date and price quote , your not looking for the least expensive shop , your looking for quality work done on a firm schedule
Just looking for a seal replacement to stop carbon buildup and build up on the plugs. I have one vehicle, so machine work isn't happening.
If I pulled the engine, I might as well replace the oil pump.....
....maybe the main bearings.
.....see where this is going? ;)

Nope, just seals. I'm only looking for what brand and which ones to use. As mentioned in the previous reply, YouTube videos are all over the place. Guy using only the O-ring s, guys driving positive seals onto guides that weren't machined to accept them. Just poor and inconsistent content between the videos I've seen.
I know this isn't rocket science, I've just never done this before.
I don't need advice about using nylon rope or using compressed air, just info on the seals. Which ones and what brands.
 
if your heads are machined for the machined valve stem seals
Id select a set of felpro valve seals, Ive used them in the past with good results
www.summitracing.com

CHEVROLET Fel-Pro SS72527 Fel-Pro Valve Stem Seals | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Fel-Pro Valve Stem Seals with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Engine Valve Stem Oil Seals at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com
www.summitracing.com

if not ID try to find out what chevy used and just replace them,with something that looks identical and fits your valve stem size
fel-ss72527_w.jpg


 
Grumpy is dead on the money here I would go closest to OEM and just get it done.
I like your attitude. :like:
Being a 1988 engine, I won't know until I open it up if these are machined for positive seals. The surface for the rocker cover gasket is machined, but I don't know if the guide bosses are.
If they aren't machined, should I install umbrellas on the exhaust valves too?
This is part of my confusion. Some say the heat destroys them rather quickly and to just use the O-rings on those valves.

O'Reilly's sells Mahle stuff and I thought they supply a lot of OEM gaskets and seals. If not, probably going with Felpro.
 
Do not attempt to use both seals and o-rings. O-rings go in the trash.
Tip: use an old spark plug wire instead of rope. Call Alex. He will tell you exactly what you need.

 
Do not attempt to use both seals and o-rings. O-rings go in the trash.
Tip: use an old spark plug wire instead of rope. Call Alex. He will tell you exactly what you need.

Now see this is the kind of information I can't find anywhere else. I figured the O-rings would be most important.
The engine has 280 + almost 290,000 mi on it and it's been advised by many people to redo the valve guides. If the valve guides are sloppy I would think the O-rings would be more important because I'm not doing a valve job on this, the heads are not coming off.
I'll check with that company on Monday. This isn't something I'm ready to do right now but I just want to have the information before I do it. It's no emergency, just something I want to do before the end of summer.
I very much appreciate your comments.
 
You're welcome.
I too hate it when you can't get a simple straightforward answer to a simple question.
 
I just saw this: Being an '88 4.3 vin z, (non Vortec), I'm assuming it requires umbrella seals? The truck is '93, the engine '88.

Either way, give Alex a call. He has what you need.
 
My guess is that it will be either of these:


Use them on BOTH intake and exhaust.
 
Thank you very much.
I've been busy and haven't checked in with them yet but I will do that.
Yes it's hard to find videos put out by the seal manufacturers. They may be out there but everything that comes up is backyard mechanics with crappy videos showing people that have never done these before.....
.... Maybe I should put a video out on YouTube since I've never done one before.:cwl:
 
have you ever asked yourself why the chevy valve seal sets look like tis picture (linked below) or why the intake seals look like the blue spring loaded plastic cylinders while the exhaust uses a simply squared off O-ring?
the intake port runs on rapidly changing negative pressure or SUCTION, (no its really not, its just significantly lower than the outside air pressure caused by the open valve over a rapidly descending piston, in the bore, without a valve OIL SEAL an excessive amount of oil would be constantly flowing through the valve stem/valve guide clearances, thus the need to limit the potential oil flow rate with a valve seal, but the EXHAUST port operates on both a positive and intermittent negative pressure wave valve cycle and at much higher temperatures, so the valve stem to valve guide is operating at an intermittent pressure wave that's far less likely to over lubricate, from oil in the upper cylinder head and oil flow over the valve springs etc, thus the simple O-ring seal is frequently a large enough restriction to oil flow to allow the exhaust valve to operate without excessive oil flow rates.
yes some valve seal setts use the intake style valve seals on both the intake and exhaust valves, but generally they will be a different color and be marked in some way as exhaust/ intake seals as the different type of valves (INTAKE VS EXHAUST) operated best with different oil flow clearances
fel-ss72527_w.jpg
cdeb4fd925126d3ae3ee5115102d2e33.jpg


 
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