just want some reassurance on combo choices




check your existing exhaust header tube length and diameter and the collector dimensions,
theres a good bit of power lost or gained by matching header dimensions to what the engines the cam duration,
lsa and engine displacement and engine compression ratio and ignition timing and fuel/air ratio want as the ideal compromise
i have very often seen guys just order headers that fit the car and engine without doing the required math, remember commercially available headers are in most cases designed to fit and function and be used on as many different cars with similar engines as they can , at the lowest cost to produce, this almost always results in commercially produced headers with smaller diameter and shorter tube length's and short & badly designed collectors yes it takes some effort and research but its very common for well designed custom headers to broaden the power band and quite often you can gain an extra 20-40 hp over off the shelf headers I have seen a few cases where custom headers and collectors made a very noticeable increase in the power and resulted in a noticeably broader power band and over 50 hp gains on some engines I built, remember properly built headers cost more and in about 70% or more cars the owner never considers that off the shelf headers are not even close to ideal.
in fact its one of the reasons I got into TIG welding ,I could never find off the shelf headers that were even vaguely close to the math predicted ideal dimensions, measure your existing headers and then do the required math and remember primary tubes that are too small or two short or a collector that's too short or the wrong diameter can really narrow your torque peak and the power band and limit the rpm potential.
id also point out that the correct headers almost always require retuning the fuel/air ratio and might require a change in the ignition advance curve to produce power you never had access to before the header upgrade especially if your cam has a fairly tight LSA in the 104-108 range where the headers really respond to high compression as the peak power might really surprise you once the proper headers allow the engine to scavenge the cylinders correctly as it generally requires a richer f/a ratio, many commercial off the shelf headers can be 4-8 inches shorter on the primary tube length and noticeably smaller in diameter than the match suggests is ideal and its almost certain the collector dimensions were designed for easy connection to a stock exhaust with zero thought to power potential

1773644678372.png
 
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check your existing exhaust header tube length and diameter and the collector dimensions,
theres a good bit of power lost or gained by matching header dimensions to what the engines the cam duration,
lsa and engine displacement and engine compression ratio and ignition timing and fuel/air ratio want as the ideal compromise
i have very often seen guys just order headers that fit the car and engine without doing the required math, remember commercially available headers are in most cases designed to fit and function and be used on as many different cars with similar engines as they can , at the lowest cost to produce, this almost always results in commercially produced headers with smaller diameter and shorter tube length's and short & badly designed collectors yes it takes some effort and research but its very common for well designed custom headers to broaden the power band and quite often you can gain an extra 20-40 hp over off the shelf headers I have seen a few cases where custom headers and collectors made a very noticeable increase in the power and resulted in a noticeably broader power band and over 50 hp gains on some engines I built, remember properly built headers cost more and in about 70% or more cars the owner never considers that off the shelf headers are not even close to ideal.
in fact its one of the reasons I got into TIG welding ,I could never find off the shelf headers that were even vaguely close to the math predicted ideal dimensions, measure your existing headers and then do the required math and remember primary tubes that are too small or two short or a collector that's too short or the wrong diameter can really narrow your torque peak and the power band and limit the rpm potential.
id also point out that the correct headers almost always require retuning the fuel/air ratio and might require a change in the ignition advance curve to produce power you never had access to before the header upgrade especially if your cam has a fairly tight LSA in the 104-108 range where the headers really respond to high compression as the peak power might really surprise you once the proper headers allow the engine to scavenge the cylinders correctly as it generally requires a richer f/a ratio, many commercial off the shelf headers can be 4-8 inches shorter on the primary tube length and noticeably smaller in diameter than the match suggests is ideal and its almost certain the collector dimensions were designed for easy connection to a stock exhaust with zero thought to power potential

View attachment 21384
@Grumpy I'd love to sit down and build some for this car but I don't have the time. I have a pretty decent set of Doug's headers for this build. Clearance is on the tighter side of life with the steering box. Appreciate the read.
 
I went searching for the answer. Tried changing serveral parameter and found the setting called "FE Exhaust Tune RPM", it made the biggest difference in the RPM at which the peak HP occurred.

I will get into tomorrow, getting too late to get started now.
Thanks Rick. I think the legend in the photo is reversed, but I get the picture. Unrestrict the exhaust as much as possible. And it is. Doug's 1.75 headers going to 3" single chamber flow
 
Have you been considering how the value of your Dynamic Compression Ratio will be affected by the IVC of the camshaft you pick. The IVC for your mystery cam is 74°, plugging that into my DCR calculator the value will be 7.72

Sounds kinda low. My DCR is 8.02 and the best octane I can get is 91. AT 8.27 is was getting detonation on 91 octane.

I'm just ONE data point for detonation, your mileage may vary!

Below is your present DCR (Engine 1) and two scenarios for getting your DCR to 8.0.

1773698291199.png

What calculator are you using to derive the unknown numbers for you your camshafts, what assumptions are they making. This could effect the DCR calcs. A few degrees off could make a significant difference.
.
 
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Have you been considering how the value of your Dynamic Compression Ratio will be affected by the IVC of the camshaft you pick. The IVC for your mystery cam is 74°, plugging that into my DCR calculator the value will be 7.72

Sounds kinda low. My DCR is 8.02 and the best octane I can get is 91. AT 8.27 is was getting detonation on 91 octane

I'm just ONE data point for detonation, your mileage may vary!

Below is your present DCR (Engine 1) and two scenarios for getting your DCR to 8.0.

View attachment 21386

What calculator are you using to derive the unknown numbers for you your camshafts, what assumptions are they making. This could effect the DCR calcs. A few degrees off could make a significant difference.
.
Both manufacturers sent me the numbers. I did plug them into online calculators to go backwards and check the math
 
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@Indycars I just used a calculator from go fast math and it was around 8.5 all things the same except for zero decking. I used the @.050" numbers for accuracy with their calculator. I remember your detonation issues. Didn't it boil down to several factors? Octane, rpm at cruise and timing issues? I'd have to look back at the last cams numbers but it was in the ballpark. I run 93 or 100ll aviation fuel which I think is around 95 octane
 
I edited post #715
I just used a calculator from go fast math and it was around 8.5 all things the same except for zero decking. I used the @.050" numbers for accuracy with their calculator.
The .050" numbers maybe what the calculator wants, but that is NOT the most accurate way to calculate the DCR. The calculator is ESTIMATING IVC on the seat usually by adding 15° to the IVC at .050.

DCR is about the actual volume trapped in the cylinder when the intake valve closes on the seat. AT .050 THE VALVE IS OPEN AND FLOW IS STILL HAPPENING.

Didn't it boil down to several factors? Octane, rpm at cruise and timing issues? I'd have to look back at the last cams numbers but it was in the ballpark. I run 93 or 100ll aviation fuel which I think is around 95 octane
I never solved the problem by changing the timing. It was when I retarded the cam by 4° that the detonation went away. By retarding the cam, I mean it was installed with a split overlap or also called straight up. Most cams when installed dot-to-dot, it's installed 4° advanced.

Avgas 100L is rated at 100 octane using the R+M/2 method, the same rating used at gas station in the US.
.
 
I edited post #715

The .050" numbers maybe what the calculator wants, but that is NOT the most accurate way to calculate the DCR. The calculator is ESTIMATING IVC on the seat usually by adding 15° to the IVC at .050.

DCR is about the actual volume trapped in the cylinder when the intake valve closes on the seat. AT .050 THE VALVE IS OPEN AND FLOW IS STILL HAPPENING.


I never solved the problem by changing the timing. It was when I retarded the cam by 4° that the detonation went away. By retarding the cam, I mean it was installed with a split overlap or also called straight up. Most cams when installed dot-to-dot, it's installed 4° advanced.

Avgas 100L is rated at 100 octane using the R+M/2 method, the same rating used at gas station in the US.
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You are correct about the octane rating. I was thinking about the MOR rating. I can't remember exactly how your calculator was set up but on my mystery cam the timing events are at the hot lash point. So when the cam opens .016" that's where the numbers I have come from. I'm not sure about the actual degree that takes place at. That would depend on knowing the ramp profile and acceleration of the ramp, or having a digital curve on a program for both intake and exhaust lobes, which I don't have. That's why I used the @.050 numbers.
 
Brain Fart on my part, I wasn't considering the lash.

When you degree the cam, you should be able to measure the IVC. The SAE standard for a opening/closing is when the lifter is .006" from the base circle. That's what Dynomation uses.

Seems like I remember that Comp Cams rates their cams at .004".

You could use this calculator to design your own cam. Then give this to the cam grinder for an example of what you want. They could make any changes they deem required. I think this might provide a way to know the.006" lifter rise

Model lobe geometry, rocker ratio, lash, and valve motion. Compare gross and net lift instantly. Export organized results for workshop tuning, reviews, and documentation.
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thank you for posting the link to the heads
damn good price if the specs are true

 
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if I was not much more inclined to build a BBC engine,
than a SBC for personal use , those new trickflow aluminum 215cc heads
https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-32410007-c01
and a wet nitrous plate and an engine designed to run pure ALCOHOL with about 14:1 compression would sure look ,
like something ID build as the potentially interesting race only engine if i had a t-bucket or similar car that weighted under about 2800 lbs
 
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if I was not much more inclined to build a BBC engine,
than a SBC for personal use , those new trickflow aluminum 215cc heads
https://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-32410007-c01
and a wet nitrous plate and an engine designed to run pure ALCOHOL with about 14:1 compression would sure look ,
like something ID build as the potentially interesting race only engine if i had a t-bucket or similar car that weighted under about 2800 lbs
Seems like a good build for Rick. T Bucket specialist
 
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@Grumpy
I'm trying to find the file structure for "Cam Doctor and "S96" files? I want to create lobe profiles by specifying cam degrees vs lobe lift. I can look at Dynomation's CamDoc and S96 files with a text editor like notepad. It sure would be nice to find a detail document for creating these files.

In the meantime I edited the mystery cam to move into the 4.0 to 4.99 Dynomation rating scale. The cam now looks like the graphic below.

MysteryCam_ManualEdit_01.jpg
MysteryCam_ManualEdit_02.jpg

By modifying the cam parameters I was able to accelerate the valve considerably faster. This created I improved top end with NO loss in the bottom end. Obviously there is going to be harder on the valve train.

The peak HP increased from 645 to 662 at 6500 rpm.

The DCR is going to increase with a IVC of -5° compared to the original Mystery cam.

NOTE: The RPM scale was starting at 2500 rpm, now it starts at 3500 rpm.

Sim05B-vs-Sim05C.jpg
.
 
it is going to be rather interesting to see how close the actual engines power curve ,
compares to the soft ware predictions
 
@Indycars @Grumpy I'm favoring these springs. Howards made by PAC. All springs are made by PSI or PAC it seems. I have used the Isky 9915 tool room spring in a similar application. These spec out very close. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...EuirQCa1vY1op89Auq3-22PDIplb1QOPbvv3KG_lfIOOU

I'm going to go with a BAM DLC steel bushed lifter. Axle is oiled by 4 ports. Normal.750 wheel. Rick I'm concerned if I get more aggressive with the intensity I will shred lifters. I know this is a radical street build already but I'm going to try to keep it dependable.
Lifter#: BAM-2001-BB1
.842", SBC V8 265-400, 0.300 Tall, On-Center, 4-Port axle oiling, .750" wheel
Roller wheels fitted with BB1 "DLC on Steel" axle upgrade.

Pushrods will be Trend 3/8 in whatever length it ends up specing.

I'm going to use tool steel retainers for longevity. The titanium retainers I previously used had a decent amount of wear. They seemed soft for the street. I still need to decide whether to go super 7 degree or 10 degree locks and retainers. That cam program is nifty. We just need a grinder! That power curve is impressive for a SBC.

I do think I will have it cut on a 108 LSA to shift torque lower and a more radical idle. Brakes are going away from power vacuum to hydro boost
 
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