m1a1 related

grumpyvette

Administrator
Staff member

with all the talk about riots and civil unrest and buildings and homes, being burnt to the ground,

along with the people inside them, as a result of the news shows promoting violence and ,
law enforcement ignoring left wing riots ,I and others see these tv programs,
about that recent incident in Missouri, I was asked what rifle Id grab,
if I was looking for a military style rifle to defend my home,THE M1A every time!
BTW the british military did an extensive test study with both trained
soldiers and un-trained recruits
in both cases semi auto fire resulted in many more hits on targets per minute,

that's why many L1A rifles issued were semi auto only

and got a chance to spend a bit of time at the local rifle range.
maybe just my age and experience showing, but if given the option to carry any service rifle,
Id instantly select a heavy stainless steel, barrel M14 , while its true I could carry more ammo for a given weight in the smaller AR platform ,military use of the AR15/CLONE OF THE M4 or M16 is based on short burst,(3-5 shots in most cases) fully automatic fire capability something you can't have in the AR15 civilian version.

BTW use of expanding 168-172 grain bullets greatly increases lethality
use powders like (below)and federal 215 primers for excellent accuracy
BL-C(2)
IMR 4895
H4895
Varget
IMR 4064®
don't load for the top velocity , you can get, load for the most consistently accurate ammo
m14OD.png

Id vastly prefer the extra several hundred yards of extra reach and knock down and penetration the .308 caliber ,over the .223.
and If given the option Id sure like a bullet resistant vest with a dozen magazines and an M1A1 heavy barrel rifle with a bi-pod
shooting lots of ammos nice, but the object of a battle rifle is too be able too put holes through some guy, and the guy standing behind him, well before he can do the same thing to you,
and an M14 has proven for decades that it can reach out to impressive range with accurate shot placement.
or as an older guy I know says
the difference between an ak47 and an m14 reminds me of the difference between thunder and lightning,
thunders impressive and makes a lot of noise.....lightning splits trees in half, and starts fires

FAM14ServiceRifle4.png

M14.gif

(the concept of making your shots count and accurate shot placement seems lost on the "SPRAY AND PRAY" mentality)
this seems a bit like the military where the 223 has a less than ideal reputation and the 7.62 has long been considered far more effective, but because the average soldier can carry twice as many 223 vs 7.62 for the weight , and the 223 is easier to control under full auto fire ,the 223 was selected.
(personally Id rather trust my life to a m 14 and carry 300 cartridges than a ar 15 with 600 cartridges) simply because I know the m14 reaches out further punches through more cover and one decent center mass hits usually fatal, and the guy behind the guy can also be killed. (I'm not a fan of spray & pray tactic, ) where you put a great many shots in the area of your target, AND PRAY YOULL HIT SOMETHING TACTICS ) yes spray and pray occasionally works. :facepalm: ..people win lotto drawings every few weeks also:like::giggle:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=67&v=9Y4nSBiqN38

http://www.chuckhawks.com/affordable_accuracy.htm

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2013/03/daniel-zimmerman/upgrading-the-m1a-a-gunsmiths-perspective/

https://www.fulton-armory.com/M14-Rifles.aspx

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YMBj9Jbnz38

only HITS on the INTENDED target count and its a well proven fact that a skilled rifleman with an accurate semi-auto rifle can do an amazing amount of damage with far less ammo expended, than someone with a full auto carbine with less accuracy, range and penetration.
full auto fire looks impressive, but its generally used to reduce incoming fire rates by keeping the enemy's head down and forcing them to seek cover rather than actually taking them out of action. a well placed hit can permanently end a fight, a hail storm of lead sprayed in the general direction may not do that.

the reason I bring this concept up is I recently went to a local range and the only range positions available at the time were two benches at the 200 yard range, my local neighbor has an AK carbine which hes absolutely convinced is the best rifle to own, if theres ever a need to defend ones family in a civil emergency that he occasionally fantasizes about, an ak IS DESIGNED FOR rapid repeatable suppressive fire, and it excels at combat under 100 yards, its not ideal for precise target hits out at 250-600 yards where a skilled rifleman with an M14 has an advantage
clipmag.jpg

for the few uneducated members
clips are frequently used to transport ammo, and efficiently quickly, refill magazines
ak47cv.jpg

and I had a single shot falling block browning 78 in caliber 300 wby, equipped with iron sights, we both set up our targets at 200 yards,and trust me with these 66 year old eyes iron sights at 200 yards are not ideal, but I wanted to try it out! that rifles hardly the ideal defensive fire arm, but it allowed me to test my eyes out at longer range targets and its iron sites which SUCK compared to the sights on an M1A1, brought back lots of memories of the M1A1.
37A6B8.jpg

yet after the first relay we walked down too checked targets and while my group was about 6" in diameter and slightly high on the target, backer, all my shots were on the paper ,centered about 4" high, he had fired 30 shots to my 6 during the same time frame, and not had a single shot cut paper, and he swears his carbines sighted dead on at 50 yards.
having used an M14 and M1A1 in the past, and while having a good deal of respect for the AK, platform, and being fully aware of both its long range and short range potential, Id grab an M1A1 any time I felt the need for a defensive weapon if given the choice, simply because I feel far more competent, it it as something I can trust





http://www.keepshooting.com/review/product/list/id/209/category/8/





http://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/mil-spec-20-rd-m14-m1a-mag?a=148200

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HBFTQPwlrA

http://www.handloads.com/loaddata/default.asp?Caliber=308 Winchester&Weight=All&type=Rifle&Source=

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-7XYaeIf0g

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oi9GGdPPds

http://www.smithenterprise.com/products03.01.html

http://www.americanrifleman.org/article ... -m1a-rifle

http://www.fulton-armory.com/m14-m1a-2.aspx

http://www.fulton-armory.com/M14-Rifles.aspx

http://www.brownells.com/magazines/rifl ... 27330.aspx

http://www.springfield-armory.com/m1a-series/

http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/M1Garand_ ... wp3393.htm

MAGAZINES
http://www.keepshooting.com/review/product/list/id/209/category/8/

M14 Gas cylinder wrench
Castle nut pliers
Flat-head screwdriver
M14 Combination tool
Plastic hammer

Propane torch
Barrel vise
M14 barrel lug wrench
Metal bonding solution

Instructions to replace m14 barrel

1

Remove the magazine. Pull the operating to the rear. Inspect the chamber to ensure that no live ammunition is present.
2

Pull back on the operating rod handle. This action will disengage the bolt-stop, and the bolt will close forward.

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3

Engage the safety. Push the rear of the trigger guard toward the butt stock. This action will unlock the trigger guard. Pull the trigger guard up and forward. Lift up on the trigger guard to remove the entire trigger assembly from the weapon.
4

Lift the barrel and receiver assembly up and out of the stock. Set the stock aside.
5

Hold the guide rod and spring in place with one hand. Slide the connector lock -- located directly in front of the guide rod and spring on the receiver -- to the right to free the guide rod and spring. Slowly and carefully guide the spring and rod out of the weapon.
6

Pull the operating rod to the rear. Line the rod up with the small horizontal notch groove on the receiver. Pivot and lift the operating rod out of the receiver. Pull the bolt out of the receiver.
7

Loosen the round nut set-screw located on the flash suppressor with a fitting screwdriver. Fit the gas cylinder wrench onto the gas cylinder lock -- located 2 inches in front of the forward stock --and hold it in place with firm pressure. Attach the castle nut pliers to the flash suppressor. Turn the flash suppressor counterclockwise to remove it.
8

Turn the weapon on its right side. Keep the gas cylinder wrench in place. Depress the gas spindle valve screw with a flat-head screwdriver. This screw is located immediately in front of the forward stock. Turn the screw counterclockwise until the slots of the screw are horizontal, in line with the barrel.
9

Keeping the gas cylinder wrench in place, attach the M14 combination tool to the gas cylinder plug. The plug is located under the barrel on the gas block. Turn the gas cylinder plug counterclockwise and remove it.
10

Take the gas cylinder wrench off the gas cylinder lock. Turn the gas cylinder lock counterclockwise, then remove it. Tilt the muzzle toward the floor. The gas piston will drop out.
11

Tap the gas cylinder forward and off the weapon using a plastic hammer. Slide the front hand guard band off the weapon. Slide the wooden hand guard forward and off the weapon.
12

Secure the barrel in a barrel vise. Hold a propane torch on the barrel lug for 45 seconds. This will burn off the metal binding solution that was used during assembly.
13

Place the barrel lug wrench on the barrel lug nut at the front of the receiver. Turn the barrel lug wrench counterclockwise using great pressure until the barrel loosens and unscrews.
14

Apply metal bonding solution to the barrel threads. Screw the new barrel on, turning clockwise. Place a standard ruler on the front sight base and another ruler on the rear sight base. Use the barrel lug wrench to tighten the barrel until the rulers are level with each other. This ensures that the barrel is properly aligned. The barrel changing process is now complete.



 
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agreed, those rifles are more accurate than the end user, durable as all hell, and ammunition is plentiful. i love my ARs and for trekking around all day its nice to have a 7 pound rifle instead of a 15 pounder... but if i was going to shoot from a prone stationary position there isn't a more practical platform than the m1a/m14 style rifle.

http://www.springfield-armory.com/m1a-series/

http://www.lrbarms.com/m14partskits.html

http://www.windycitysourcing.com/M14-Builders-Parts-Kit-M14-PK.htm

http://www.shop.m-14parts.com/M14-M1A-Chrome-Lined-Medium-Weight-22-Barrel-CMWCL.htm

http://www.fulton-armory.com/m14-m1a-2.aspx

http://www.treelinem14.com/Barrels_c30.htm


rings
https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/00023420180/1"-tactical-rings-low-picatinny-style-matte-finish-2-rings
420180.jpg



MdAOHL.jpg


matching M1a scope mount
https://www.amazon.com/Springfield-...veASIN=B0046QVXUU&linkCode=xm2&tag=slk03b1-20
www.youtube.com

The M1A: ONE Rifle To Do It ALL?!

The M1A: ONE Rifle To Do It ALL?! Today we have the Springfield M1A, an Iconic American rifle that I have never tried... until now!!- - - - Big Discount On T...
www.youtube.com
www.youtube.com

https://www.treelinem14.com/USGI-M14-Synthetic-Fiberglass-Stocks_c5.htm
 
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in a true survival application where you might want too hunt small game or have a greatly reduces rifle report when fired,
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/197650
dge Conversion Sleeve Insert, .308 Win To .32 ACP Rifle, New
Cartridge Conversion Sleeve Insert, .308 Win To .32 ACP Rifle, New
.32 ACP CONVERSION SLEEVES

Allows you to fire .32 ACP ammunition from your military rifle up to 1100 FPS/190 foot pounds. Installs quickly with no permanent modifications to the firearm.


I assume many of you gentlemen know that some calibers like the 308 win and 30/06 have rather easy to come by caliber conversion sleaves that allow use of a 32 acp , this all but eliminates recoil and reduces the report greatly, it won,t function a semi auto, but works fine in a m1a if fed and ejected manually
 
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#1 your flash hidder is already reamed.
#2 you have a NM front site.
#3 Unitized gas cylinder???
#3a Clearance the front furrel(optional) if there is contact.
#3b Shim G/C. (optional)
#3c Float the handguard. (unitized G/C needed)
#4 trigger job, your rifle is a loaded and should have a good trigger from the factory.
#5 NM rearsite, your rifle is a loaded and should have a modified std rear site with a ball and detent spring giving you 1/2 min windage adj. a NM hooded(looks like a can) rear apiture will need to be fitted to give you 1/2 min elevation adj. So in a nutshell your rear site is 1/2 way finnished.
#6 A good fitting stock will serve your needs for a while when the trigger group lockup(draw preasure) starts getting soft, it should be bedded.
http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2013/03/jim-barrett/modifying-the-classic-m14m1a/

http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2013/03/daniel-zimmerman/upgrading-the-m1a-a-gunsmiths-perspective/


magazines
http://www.keepshooting.com/review/product/list/id/209/category/8/
 
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every time i see the title of this thread i think of this m1a1..
.
m1a1_abrams.jpg

 
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well Id rather have the tank in fully operational condition than the rifle but my check book won,t cover the additional cost and I'd bet my last dollar that some liberal politician would be screaming his head off if a civilian owned a fully functional one!

but given a choice a leopard IIA6 would be even better as its a diesel with a longer range main gun that has comparable armor, better mileage, and an engine designed to be swapped in 15 minutes, replaceable armor panels etc.


leopard2tank-14.jpg
 
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The Older M1A1 had a Little Joe to start the Main Engine Grumpy .
Send 1 my way.
 
well Id rather have the tank in fully operational condition than the rifle but my check book won,t cover the additional cost and I'd bet my last dollar that some liberal politician would be screaming his head off if a civilian owned a fully functional one!

but given a choice a leopard IIA6 would be even better as its a diesel with a longer range main gun that has comparable armor, better mileage, and an engine designed to be swapped in 15 minutes, replaceable armor panels etc.
leopard2tank-14.jpg
You can own one legally. It's the ammo you have to have the tax paid for. It's considered explosives.
 
the honeywell gt1500 turbine in the M1 is a multifuel itll run on anything that burns, great for teotwawki. and ive had one out of the hull and on the ground in alot less than 15 minutes
 
I have all three an AR-15 , M1A Scout rifle and an AK-47 underfolder..I would never give up any of them..
Gotta have the right tool for the right job...!
 
I don't know about 1 gun I think all guns have their calling for the situation if they were coming down my street the AR or AK would be my choice if they were coming across the bridge one of my deer hunting rifles would do the trick I also just got an old Mauser 8mm with open sights that I still need to practice with
 
Id guess a good deal of your preference is heavily influenced by what you may have grown up using and for an old geezer like me, if I was asked to actually go into combat a M1a with a mix of my hand load 168 grain ammo and military SLAP ammo would be my first choice simply due to long familiarity and the firm knowledge, that if a rifle can be expected to effectively engage a target that combo will work very well, a few options like a quick detach starlight scope and second 2x7x Leopold scope would be welcome as would a bi-pod
 
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I would have to grab a pistol for short distance combat I shoot 1000 rounds of pistol to 1 rifle except for the ARs & AKs I just built a AR pistol I just have to get it out & get used to it
 
Id prefer to engage a potential opponent on MY TERMS, and having night vision, and extra long range and increased barrier penetration , and select fire capacity if I had an M14 version,are benefits Id want, if you know history you know that a good effective sniper like carlos hathcock
had a spotter with an M14 and he used a bolt action winchester to hold up and basically destroy a full company strength attack, simply because he and his spotter could reach out and effectively decimate the enemy.
I'm not suggesting an M1a is ideal, just that it suits me well, I know its capability's from long use and Id have little trouble engaging an opponent at 500-600 yards with the proper ammo and set-up, something the AK and AR platforms that are basically past their most effective range and accuracy limits reaching, while consistently ringing a 20" gong at 500 yards with a bi-pod equipped, and scoped Mia is boringly simple, even for a novice from a bench rest or prone position and with practice even off hand can be accomplished
FS-BH-23.jpg

miast.jpg

miasta.gif


M14.gif


rings
https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item/00023420180/1"-tactical-rings-low-picatinny-style-matte-finish-2-rings
420180.jpg


MdAOHL.jpg

matching M1a scope mount
https://www.amazon.com/Springfield-...veASIN=B0046QVXUU&linkCode=xm2&tag=slk03b1-20



https://modernamericanheroes.wordpress.com/tag/carlos-hathcock/


51c68b9v6el.jpg

FAM14ServiceRifle4.png
 
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I have thought about this a lot I live in a neighborhood where anybody attacking would be fairly close thats why I would go with a AR or AK or a pistol more shots & less loading
 
If we had a warning & could prepare for an attack I would go to the farm and set up. Now that would be all long distance so a rifle would be the choice there
 
A neighbor recently purchased a well used M1A1 and ask me, about,
who can you trust to do a great job re barreling a M1A1 .
where can you get parts kits,etc.
now I just don,t know who currently does that or what parts currently cost or ,
what can reasonably be done by a home gunsmith,
can you simply buy a barrel and do it yourself?
any related info would be helpful, because I know several people with those rifles
If you know of a reputable and dependable re-barreling service, and can post linked info here that would be helpful!
he would like a heavy full 22"-24"stainless steel , barrel to replace the current barrel on the rifles action.


heres one option but I'd like too know a few more valid other options before making a choice, on vendors or gunsmith services
https://kriegerbarrels.com/products
will sell you a barrel for about $380 and install it for about $200 and,
you can ship it to them directly
(if your the rifles owner without dealing with an FFL licencem
as this is a simple gunsmith repair)

and you can expect to get the rifle back,
for about $60,in shipping costs,
thats about $650 complete ,
the time frame is about 90 days,
and they don,t need the trigger group or stock to re-barrel the action.
ID advise you to package it very securely and insure it for about $2000 so your not out financially if its damaged or lost in transit.
Id also ask a lot of questions as to who has a good record for not loosing or damaging rifles in transit, and what is the suggested way to pack and ship a barreled action.



bpa2.gif

btw
https://www.keepshooting.com/review/product/list/id/209/category/8/
 
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an M1a chambered in the russian 7.62/39 reduces recoil and makes ammo much cheaper,
but you give up both range and penetration, and in some cases accuracy
not a big issue as from what Ive seen the rifles so chambered are no longer imported into the U.S.A,


MAKES NO SENSE SINCE NORINKO SELLS
THOUSAND'S OF ak 47 SEMI AUTO CLONES AND SPORTER RIFLE CLONES AND NO RIFLE OR FIREARM LAWS HAVE ANY EFFECT ON REDUCING CRIME RATES
Norinco-Hunter-AK-Sporter-in-7-62x39-Mint-and-Unfired_101181379_70986_000CB174115C175B.JPG

BTW THESE NORINCO AK SEMI AUTO SPORTER CLONES MAKE A REALLY NICE , FLORIDA LEGAL,
HOG HUNTING RIFLE WITH A 5 SHOT CAPACITY MAGAZINE
 
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